posted 06-27-2008 07:26 PM ET (US)        

Like last year we changed our original plan to dive the Pacific side and instead explored the Midriff region of the Sea, or Gulf of California. It narrows here, and the islands that push out of the the depths further squeeze the tidal currents and create a swirling cauldron that, when combined with the area’s characteristically capricious winds, can make for interesting seas. One must be vigilant.

But that churning soup also makes it one of the richest bodies of water on the planet, and we tried to time our trip to take full advantage. Early June brings an anchovy run to the region, which in turn brings a marauding hoard of predators from blue whales to humboldt squid to a staple gamefish, the California Yellowtail.

And birds. Millions of birds. One small, parched island less than a mile wide, Isla Rasa, is the primary nesting site for 90% of the world’s Heerman’s gulls and Elegant Terns. The terns migrate from Chile and Peru and by some estimates consume 65 tons of baitfish a day during the height of the breeding season. You can smell that island for miles when you’re down wind.
http://www.oceanoasis.org/fieldguide/islarasa.html

For me the keys to success in Baja have been preparation, flexibility, a clear-eyed understanding of our abilities and limitations and of course, cervesa fria (cold beer). The cervesas come with the territory. The rest was up to us.

A predawn rendezvous and load-up before the 10 hour desert run to Bahia de Los Angeles. The boats were stripped and fuel tanks emptied to keep them light. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5278copy.jpg

As we’ve all heard, security in Mexico, particularly near the border is a problem now. We considered the risks and made the trip making sure to stick together and not travel after dark. We never had a hint of a problem, and the drop in tourism left the roads empty, particularly south of San Quintin. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5552.jpg .

There’s no way to get around a 10-hour drive, but the sweeping vistas and rugged beauty of this desert just before summer turns it into a frying pan make a good distraction. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5305copy.jpg It also helps to have air conditioning, satellite radio and a cooler full of snacks and sodas within arm’s reach.

Finally, as we crested a hill, rising in welcome, the idyllic Sea of Cortez with the Bahia de Los Angeles' islets in the foreground, and mighty Isla Angel La Guardia looming in the distance.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5319copy.jpg

We arrived in town in time for a margarita at Guillermo’s hotel and restaurant before a trip to the Pemex (gas) station to fuel the boats and trucks. Alas, work on the power lines meant no electricity and no gas pumps, so we had to wait until morning.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/CRW_5328.jpg
Too excited to sleep in, we rose early, loaded the boats, fueled up (at a breathtaking $2.40/gallon) and launched.

We were virtually self contained, which meant a heavily loaded Outrage: 250 lbs. of ice, 3 cases each of Gatorade and water, 250 pounds of dive gear and underwater photography equipment, duffels, 10 extra gallons of gas, 100 lbs. of spares/emergency equipment and 400 lbs. of very eager divers. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_1891copy.jpg The only staple we didn’t bring: beer. It was available at our destination cheap and cold.

The bay treated us to sheet glass conditions as we set off on our adventure. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5343copycopy.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_1894copy.jpg

Our companion boat was a modified Bertram 20 aptly named “X-Games”. That boat has the most deadrise I’ve ever seen, so it rolled at anchor, but it ate up the chop.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5411.jpg

Overall we had more wind than usual but nothing of consequence, just a little more spray and a few whitecaps.

We missed the heart of the anchovy run, but there was enough life around to make it interesting. We caught a few yellowtail on rod n’ reel by watching for diving birds and casting into the melee. All rod caught fish were released. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_1896copy.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_1901copy.jpg

What followed was 4 days of sun, fish, lots of freediving, and 200+ miles over water. And cervesas.

We came here to dive http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/CRW_5514copycopy.jpg and bring home a few of the Gulf’s more tasty denizens. The two most ubiquitous, the leopard grouper and yellowtail were plentiful and challenging enough, but it’s always great to dive with the undisputed kings of the reef, the Gulf Grouper. They can grow to 200 lbs., but they aren’t great table faire, and their numbers are dwindling, so we don’t harm them. But, their penchant for deep water, makes them a challenge for the freediving photographer, so I pursue them with a camera whenever possible.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/CRW_6332.jpg

Sometimes it’s just fun to be a kid and horse around in your Whaler. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5467copy.jpg

We used our last day to dive our way back to the trucks, and that meant fully loaded for the 60+ mile passage. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5483copy.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5484copy.jpg .

Everything’s ready, just waiting for the dude with the camera to quit fooling around.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5503copycopy.jpg I was futilely pursuing an osprey.

On our way up the back side of an island, we raced along with a 25 knot southerly. We were in the lee, so it was pretty flat. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_1913copy.jpg

We stayed in the water a tad longer than planned and had to high-tail it to make it back to the harbor by dark. It’s never smart to run a boat after dark in Mexico, so it was doubly frustrating when my boat suffered it’s only mechanical failure as we raced the setting sun.

Twenty miles out, my brand spanking new Suzuki 140 started to surge and lose power. Ultimately we figured out that the problem ocurred when I siphoned the fuel out of the tank prior to leaving Orange County. I had disconnected the fuel line at the tank, and when I reattached the line later, the inner lining on the (evidently old) fuel line delaminated from the hose and crumpled up restricting flow. Why it waited four days to become a problem is anybody’s guess. Fortunately, the owner of the other boat owns an auto parts store and had a treasure trove of spares including a spare fuel line. I bypassed the old line and kicked in the afterburners. We made it back just as dusk settled on the town. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_5540copy.jpg

It distresses me to say that I only saw one other Whaler the whole week. It was a Conquest that was parked on the one-lane ramp when we returned. One of it’s engines was malfunctioning and the owner decided he’d do his engine work right there. I was embarrassed for all of us. :-) To make matters worse, our buddy the Bertram owner used the auxiliary ramp seen in the picture above and dinged his prop in the process.

Beaten up, crusty, exhausted and happy, we loaded up the trucks, enjoyed a final meal and margarita(s) at Guillermo’s restaurant and hit the sack. When we rose the next morning, we were greeted this.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/Tomol_2006/IMG_1915copy.jpg How can you leave a scene like that?

Only 350 days until the next trip.

posted 06-28-2008 09:47 AM ET (US)            

Thanks for the great photos. I would love to make that trip someday after reading accounts like yours.

Here is an excellent book about a similar journey exploring the Sea Of Cortez in a 24 foot sailboat. I am sure many would enjoy reading it:

SEARCHING for STEINBECK'S SEA OF CORTEZ (A Makeshift Expedition Along Baja's Desert Coast) by Andromeda Romano-Lax published by Sasquatch Books.

posted 06-28-2008 11:40 AM ET (US)            

Minitauk85, In the last year and a half some Americans have been victims of violent crime at the hands of drug gangs and corrupt police officials, particularly in the 60 mile stretch between Ensenada and the border. While most of the violence is between rival gangs and between gangs and police, enough Americans have been targeted that tourism is down, in some areas 90%, and it has devastated the local economy.

The federal government has dispatched thousands of federal police and army personnel to combat the problem, but with only limited success.

posted 06-28-2008 12:06 PM ET (US)            

This has lead to a certain amount of paranoia among Americans considering traveling to Mexico. However, most of this fear is unfounded. Few Americans (if any) have been targeted. I cannot currently find a single account of an American being the victim of the current gang violence. Nate be able to provide one.

The bottom line is that because of the fear tourism is way down, but this can be good news for travelers because the crowds are down as well.

Speaking of boat travel in Mexico, I just remembered another great book, "THE TECATE JOURNALS, Seventy Days on the Rio Grande" by Keith Bowden, published by The Mountaineers Books.

{url]http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=819[/url]

This book chronicles Bowden's journey by canoe and raft along the entire length of the Rio Grande along the US/Mexico border. It is very hostly written and dispels a great many stereotypes we have about Mexico.

Bowden was in Seattle recently promoting his book and I talked to him about it. The first thing I asked him about was the violence I had been reading of in the newspapers. He gets that question all the time and his response was that as an American there is nothing to fear. American tourists are not of interest to violent drug gangs; they want to kill each other and the public officials who might interfere with their drug trade.

posted 06-28-2008 01:04 PM ET (US)            

Seeing pictures of this recent adventure really shows the beauty and many opportunities that this area has to offer.

You can't travel at night; very "real" high risk for problems. I envy those that take the measured risks and have the experiences that "tomol" did. It was a very captivating chronicle!

Thanks for sharing,

Brian

posted 06-29-2008 01:10 AM ET (US)            

Wow, what a great adventure! I would love to do that some day. Unfortunately, I live in the Pacific Northwest, so a lot more driving would be entailed. Maybe someday I will.

Great narrative and great pictures. I enjoyed it very much.

posted 06-29-2008 03:38 AM ET (US)            

Erik

posted 07-02-2008 01:01 PM ET (US)            

Sounds like a great trip. If you and your friends would not mind a third boat in tow, please let me know. I'd love to make the trip with my Revenge but am hesitant to go alone.

My godfather owned a trailer/lot on the far south side of town of Bahia de Los Angeles. It had an old travel trailer/cabana, cement patio and outhouse. All you need! I've been there before and its a wonderful trip.