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Author Topic:   OUTRAGE Canvas Made Locally

pecos23 posted 11-04-2008 10:22 PM ET (US)
I am getting ready to have a canvas made for my 1993, Outrage 19. I am lucky to live in northern Ohio and close to Amish country. They have a couple of unbelievable canvas makers that will make a custom cover for any boat. My boat came without any canvas so I am making a mooring cover plus a console and seat cover. Is it better to cover the bow rail? What recommendations you guys might have about either snaps or clips? If snaps, where it the best place to fasten? And if clips, where do you get them? If there are any other tips, please feel free. Thanks
Newtauk1 posted 11-05-2008 08:58 AM ET (US)
The custom cover I had made for my Montauk center console should have had a reinforcement sew in at the point where the canvas comes into contact with the screws that attach the railing to the shepherds crook rail. Over time the canvas has developed small holes where it rubs against the screws. Mills did not cover the rod holders (6) on the OEM version of the cover. My cover does. The cover zips underneath the shepherds crook. The snaps on the front are located on the insides of the lower wood rod mounts(2), at the front port and starboard sides of the bottom cc wood trim(2) and on the bottom of the cc below the helm facing aft about 2-3" in from the sides. The cc cover is very secure. I do have to advance the throttle for the cover to fit snug.
dfmcintyre posted 11-05-2008 09:21 AM ET (US)
Interesting question, re going over vs going around the base of a bow rail. I've been wondering about the same.
Do you plan on trailering with the mooring cover on or is it going to be used primarily for covering it on the trailer or in the water?
If your plan is to trailer it covered, is your tow vehicle high enough to at least partially shield the wind from really playing havoc with essentially a flat vertical plate surface. I know there are wind screen accessories that can minimize this problem that are mounted on the roof rack of a tow vehicle.
The clips at one time could be ordered from Mills Canvas (if your talking about the custom fitted clip that attaches around the rub rail area).
My current mooring / trailering canvas has both the button snaps, and at high stress points the posts that have the 90 degree twist tops. Buttons may be able to be mounted under the rub rail area, for a cleaner look. Can't remember what your rub rail to hull config looks like.
You've also got to think about how hard covering it may be when in the water and also when on a trailer.
If there was a slick way to go around, I might lean in that direction.
Regards - Don
boatdryver posted 11-05-2008 09:34 AM ET (US)
The Mills cover for my Montauk went UNDER the bow rail to the bow and that gave a steep enough slope in the canvas that rain water did not collect on the cover between the windshield and the bow, No support was required for the canvas.
The downside of this is that each vertical tubing supporting the bow rail had to have a slit in the canvas and a means of hooking the edges of the fabric together on the outside of the tubing, adding to the labor cost.
JimL
jimh posted 11-06-2008 09:25 AM ET (US)
I have see several covers which use a hook to secure the canvas edge. The hook is mounted under the lip of the hull at the gunwale joint, below the rub rail molding.
andygere posted 11-06-2008 12:00 PM ET (US)
The canvas I had made for my Outrage 22 Cuddy goes over the bow rails, and drains well. The caveat is that I have a T-top, and the peak of the canvas fastens to the underside of the T-top, providing enough slope for the cover to drain well.
When I commissioned the job, I told the canvas shop that I did not want to rely on any poles, bows or tensioning straps for the cover to drain correctly, since the boat would be kept in a slip and I didn't want to have water ponding up, regardless of wind, etc. My canvas does not use any snaps or clips, but rather has a tailored hem that tucks in under the gunwale/rub rail lip. There is a continuous cord stitched into the forward half of this that allows it to be tensioned and joined at the bow. Side zipper access doors carry the tension across the zippers with webbing straps and button snaps. The aft corners of the cover are tailored to fit tightly around the square aft corners of the gunwale caps. I wanted the motors covered as much as possible, so there is an integral motor cover built in. To ensure tension and good drainage at the back of the cover, a single integral shock-cord tension line is looped around the anti-cav plate of the main outboard and tensioned with a sliding hook. This cover sheds water well, didn't require any snaps, hooks or other modifications to the boat, and performs well in the high winds we get here in the winter. It's also easy to put on and take off, and can be used on the trailer and in the slip.
You're off to a good start working with a custom shop, but be sure to tell them how you want the cover to perform, and work with them on the details. If you have photos of other covers that have design details that you like, bring them. When I did mine, I brought the boat over with some photos and ideas, and we sketched out the concept together.
pecos23 posted 11-08-2008 10:36 AM ET (US)
Some great replies to my question. The boat will be kept in a slip and I should have mentioned this from the get go. No trailing, well not much. I always like the custom clips from mill which would allow me to secure the cover with out drilling any holes in the boat. I also like the idea of no support poles or bows. Would you be able to send me a picture of your covered boat so I can see how you used the bungee cords for tension? You can send it to dpetroskey@hotmail.com. What about the zippers? Did this make the cover a two piece fore/aft cover? Thanks.
Dan posted 11-08-2008 11:16 AM ET (US)
How much will the cover cost? Is it Sunbrella material?
pecos23 posted 11-11-2008 08:15 PM ET (US)
[Did not have cost information.]
andygere posted 11-11-2008 10:37 PM ET (US)
Here's a photo of the back of my cover, showing how it's tensioned with a bungee cord around the anti-cav plate on the outboard. I would without hesitation use Sunbrella, it is outstanding stuff.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/Whaler%20details/ PIC00011.jpg
lavieve posted 11-13-2008 04:53 PM ET (US)
I have a winter cover that covers the entire Outrage II, same as yours Made by Mills. There is another cover that came with the boat that covers the forward seat, console and helmsman station and snaps just above the deck. Let me know if you would like photos of the winter cover.
pecos23 posted 11-13-2008 06:58 PM ET (US)
[Expressed interest in seeing pictures.]

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Author	Topic: OUTRAGE Canvas Made Locally
pecos23	posted 11-04-2008 10:22 PM ET (US) I am getting ready to have a canvas made for my 1993, Outrage 19. I am lucky to live in northern Ohio and close to Amish country. They have a couple of unbelievable canvas makers that will make a custom cover for any boat. My boat came without any canvas so I am making a mooring cover plus a console and seat cover. Is it better to cover the bow rail? What recommendations you guys might have about either snaps or clips? If snaps, where it the best place to fasten? And if clips, where do you get them? If there are any other tips, please feel free. Thanks
Newtauk1	posted 11-05-2008 08:58 AM ET (US) The custom cover I had made for my Montauk center console should have had a reinforcement sew in at the point where the canvas comes into contact with the screws that attach the railing to the shepherds crook rail. Over time the canvas has developed small holes where it rubs against the screws. Mills did not cover the rod holders (6) on the OEM version of the cover. My cover does. The cover zips underneath the shepherds crook. The snaps on the front are located on the insides of the lower wood rod mounts(2), at the front port and starboard sides of the bottom cc wood trim(2) and on the bottom of the cc below the helm facing aft about 2-3" in from the sides. The cc cover is very secure. I do have to advance the throttle for the cover to fit snug.
dfmcintyre	posted 11-05-2008 09:21 AM ET (US) Interesting question, re going over vs going around the base of a bow rail. I've been wondering about the same. Do you plan on trailering with the mooring cover on or is it going to be used primarily for covering it on the trailer or in the water? If your plan is to trailer it covered, is your tow vehicle high enough to at least partially shield the wind from really playing havoc with essentially a flat vertical plate surface. I know there are wind screen accessories that can minimize this problem that are mounted on the roof rack of a tow vehicle. The clips at one time could be ordered from Mills Canvas (if your talking about the custom fitted clip that attaches around the rub rail area). My current mooring / trailering canvas has both the button snaps, and at high stress points the posts that have the 90 degree twist tops. Buttons may be able to be mounted under the rub rail area, for a cleaner look. Can't remember what your rub rail to hull config looks like. You've also got to think about how hard covering it may be when in the water and also when on a trailer. If there was a slick way to go around, I might lean in that direction. Regards - Don
boatdryver	posted 11-05-2008 09:34 AM ET (US) The Mills cover for my Montauk went UNDER the bow rail to the bow and that gave a steep enough slope in the canvas that rain water did not collect on the cover between the windshield and the bow, No support was required for the canvas. The downside of this is that each vertical tubing supporting the bow rail had to have a slit in the canvas and a means of hooking the edges of the fabric together on the outside of the tubing, adding to the labor cost. JimL
jimh	posted 11-06-2008 09:25 AM ET (US) I have see several covers which use a hook to secure the canvas edge. The hook is mounted under the lip of the hull at the gunwale joint, below the rub rail molding.
andygere	posted 11-06-2008 12:00 PM ET (US) The canvas I had made for my Outrage 22 Cuddy goes over the bow rails, and drains well. The caveat is that I have a T-top, and the peak of the canvas fastens to the underside of the T-top, providing enough slope for the cover to drain well. When I commissioned the job, I told the canvas shop that I did not want to rely on any poles, bows or tensioning straps for the cover to drain correctly, since the boat would be kept in a slip and I didn't want to have water ponding up, regardless of wind, etc. My canvas does not use any snaps or clips, but rather has a tailored hem that tucks in under the gunwale/rub rail lip. There is a continuous cord stitched into the forward half of this that allows it to be tensioned and joined at the bow. Side zipper access doors carry the tension across the zippers with webbing straps and button snaps. The aft corners of the cover are tailored to fit tightly around the square aft corners of the gunwale caps. I wanted the motors covered as much as possible, so there is an integral motor cover built in. To ensure tension and good drainage at the back of the cover, a single integral shock-cord tension line is looped around the anti-cav plate of the main outboard and tensioned with a sliding hook. This cover sheds water well, didn't require any snaps, hooks or other modifications to the boat, and performs well in the high winds we get here in the winter. It's also easy to put on and take off, and can be used on the trailer and in the slip. You're off to a good start working with a custom shop, but be sure to tell them how you want the cover to perform, and work with them on the details. If you have photos of other covers that have design details that you like, bring them. When I did mine, I brought the boat over with some photos and ideas, and we sketched out the concept together.
pecos23	posted 11-08-2008 10:36 AM ET (US) Some great replies to my question. The boat will be kept in a slip and I should have mentioned this from the get go. No trailing, well not much. I always like the custom clips from mill which would allow me to secure the cover with out drilling any holes in the boat. I also like the idea of no support poles or bows. Would you be able to send me a picture of your covered boat so I can see how you used the bungee cords for tension? You can send it to dpetroskey@hotmail.com. What about the zippers? Did this make the cover a two piece fore/aft cover? Thanks.
Dan	posted 11-08-2008 11:16 AM ET (US) How much will the cover cost? Is it Sunbrella material?
pecos23	posted 11-11-2008 08:15 PM ET (US) [Did not have cost information.]
andygere	posted 11-11-2008 10:37 PM ET (US) Here's a photo of the back of my cover, showing how it's tensioned with a bungee cord around the anti-cav plate on the outboard. I would without hesitation use Sunbrella, it is outstanding stuff. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/Whaler%20details/ PIC00011.jpg
lavieve	posted 11-13-2008 04:53 PM ET (US) I have a winter cover that covers the entire Outrage II, same as yours Made by Mills. There is another cover that came with the boat that covers the forward seat, console and helmsman station and snaps just above the deck. Let me know if you would like photos of the winter cover.
pecos23	posted 11-13-2008 06:58 PM ET (US) [Expressed interest in seeing pictures.]