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Author Topic:   New Guy: On Restoring Boston Whaler Boats
68whaler13er posted 11-08-2008 07:49 PM ET (US)   Profile for 68whaler13er   Send Email to 68whaler13er  
Hello all. I recently purchased a 1968 Boston Whaler 13 with an 2002 25hp Johnson. I plan on restoring the boat, so I figured it would be a good idea to join this well respected haven of Whaler knowledge.

I'm 20 years old and I'm from Southeastern Massachusetts. This is my first privately owned boat and I am very excited to get to work on it. I spent 6 hours this morning doing a full tear down and cleaned it up with some Simple Green. So now that it is bare, I have a few questions about where to begin. I'm a little green when it comes to these boats, so bare with me!

First off, what is the difference between gel coat and paint?

How do I remove what is on the boat to make way for the new material?

The previous owner had a makeshift console and many rod holders, what do I do about all of the holes in the interior from all of the extra junk?

Thank you in advance for your answers! I will post pictures soon.

frontier posted 11-08-2008 08:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for frontier  Send Email to frontier     
Welcome aboard.

If you want to restore to original, start with a copy of a picture from the original brochure to see what it should look like.
Be glad to send you some (no charge) - just e-mail me with your name and mailing address.

If the fiberglass portion of the boat has not already been painted, restoring the original gel coat is the best (and cheapest) way to go.
Wet sanding with high number wet/dry sandpaper (600-1000 grit), then using #7 polishing compound then wax works great for me for restoring gel coat. It's a lot of work, but the results are amazing.

If the original mahogany console is in good shape you can plug the holes with mahogany plugs and Gorilla Glue. Then sand and refinish. Same with the seats and risors.
And most parts are still available for the original cable steering if you want to stay with that.

cgodfrey posted 11-08-2008 09:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for cgodfrey  Send Email to cgodfrey     
Congrats on the new boat.

1. Gelcoat is applied when the boat is in the mold. Removing all the original gelcoat and reapplying is not practical. You can paint over the old gelcoat if it's too far degraded, which is what most people elect to do if they're restoring an abused old whaler.

1a. Does your boat have the original glued on white rubrail? As far as I know, no one makes a replacement.

1b. Not much you can do about the harmless spidercracking.

2. You can repair the holes with various filler and gelcoat repair kits, but don't expect it to look original.

2a. Reproduction wood interiors are available from various places. Expect to pay several hundred to a thousand dollars. If you enjoy carpentry, schematics are also available.


I haven't seen your photos yet, but I advise you to replace the interior, repair any damage that might cause water to get into the foam and enjoy the boat as is, battle scars and all.

68whaler13er posted 11-08-2008 10:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for 68whaler13er  Send Email to 68whaler13er     
Thank you both for your replies.

There are a couple of paint chips on the boat and I can see a more accurate Whaler color underneath so I think that it has been repainted. As far as the interior goes, my brother is a very skilled woodworker and has tons of mahogany.
The after market black rubrail was taken off this morning.

I am doing this on a budget, as the boat is draining my wallet just sitting there. Would it be alright to sand it inside and out, fill all of the screw holes, re-sand it, do all of the necessary faring ect. and just paint it? If I did it this way, what protection could I put on the paint (interior & exterior)? Thanks

frontier posted 11-08-2008 10:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for frontier  Send Email to frontier     
Other members correct me if I'm wrong but I think the newer style 3-piece Boston Whaler rubrail kit will work on your boat (About $110.00 or so). It's well worth it and really puts a finishing touch on. I've found the best place to buy them is Sue at Twin Cities Marine in Wisconsin.

Is it painted both inside and out?
If it was cheap paint, it may come off easy and get you down to the original gel coat (which you can restore).
If you need to paint it, I would recommend the final spraying be done by a pro.

Your 25 HP Johnson is a great motor and good match to that hull. The boat is so light (about 340#), 25 HP is fine. Our 1st 13 Whaler had a 9.8 HP Mercury on it (old HP rating system) and it got up on plane with two people.

68whaler13er posted 11-08-2008 10:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for 68whaler13er  Send Email to 68whaler13er     
I believe it has been repainted inside and out. The paint doesn't look old, but it also doesn't look good. I'll take pictures in the morning.
jimh posted 11-08-2008 11:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Gel coat resin is the name for the outer surface of most fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP) laminates. The resin is usually a polyester resin that has been applied in a layer about 0.020-inch thick. The resin has a very opaque and uniform color. Since most boats are molded in female contact molds, the gel coat resin layer is shot into the mold first. If the mold is well prepared the gel coat resin will have a very smooth surface when the hull is removed from the mold.

The principal advantage of using gel coat resin is the relatively thick layer of pigmented resin. Small defects or scratches can be easily sanded out and the resin polished and buffed back to a high gloss.

Paint cannot generally be applied to anywhere near this thickness, and any imperfections in paint can't be fixed by sanding and buffing--they'll need repainting and careful blending of the repainted area.

The disadvantage of gel coat resin is its tendency to be brittle if built up to a thickness that is too great. The gel coat layer will not have much flexibility, and, if the underlying laminate structure flexes, the gel coat layer may crack. You often see small cracks in the gel coat in areas of the hull where stress causes some flexing of the hull under loading.

Gel coat resin which has been top coated with paint can be restored. Of course you have to first remove the paint layer, which can be labor intensive. If a boat has been painted there may be a decent layer of gel coat underneath, but then perhaps not. The paint may have been applied because the gel coat layer was too far gone to be restored. It is often seen in older boats which have spent a lot of time exposed to the sun and weather that their gel coat layer develops a lot of small cracking (called spider cracks). It there is excessive cracking it may not be possible to restore the existing layer, and a new top coat layer will be required. Because shooting gel coat resin onto a finished boat is more difficult than using regular paints, many times the hull is just top coated with paint.

68whaler13er posted 11-09-2008 11:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for 68whaler13er  Send Email to 68whaler13er     
I took some pictures of the whaler this morning. I have no idea where to start!

http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr176/jonathanpwhaler/Whaler/

cgodfrey posted 11-09-2008 11:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for cgodfrey  Send Email to cgodfrey     
Definitely been painted. Note the Masking tape outline around the hull number.

Soap and a brush is the first step.

Go to town cleaning it- get all the dirt off so you can better see what you're dealing with with the paint.

Oh, and get a can of Acetone, a plastic scraper, and an old hair dryer and get rid of that decal that's too far back.

jimh posted 11-09-2008 12:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
When undertaking a restoration you should consider two important points:

--the condition of the restoration object at the present

--the condition of the restoration object that is desired when finished

The range between those two states determines the cost of the project (and here I include one's own direct labor as a cost). And the greater the range of restoration needed, the greater the costs. It is impossible to know the willingness you have to bear the costs.

If you desire a very near perfect restoration, I suggest you look for a boat that is already in very good condition. This reduces the range of the restoration and thus its cost. Because the 13-foot Boston Whaler boat was made in very large numbers, and an astonishingly high percentage of all those boats still survive, the number of boats available to choose from when making a restoration is very high. There is no need to be stuck with a boat in terrible condition as a restoration candidate. It's not like you're trying to restore some very rare automobile of which only a few still survive. There are thousands and thousands of 13-foot Boston Whaler boats still in existence.

If you just want a decent boat to use, and you're not interested in a show room condition pristine restoration, you can buy a boat in poor condition and improve it somewhat without too much labor.

I do not recommend buying 13-foot Boston Whaler boats in poor condition and investing thousands of dollars in restoration to make them like-new again. I recommend buying a boat whose condition is near the level you would like, then making improvements to it which will not require extensive labor and expense.


jimh posted 11-09-2008 12:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
We have an entirely separate discussion area which focuses on making repairs and modifications to classic Boston Whaler boats. Once you have determined you wish to make a restoration, you should use that discussion area for specific questions about how to accomplish the restoration. You will also find that many questions you have may already have been answered in the many thousands of archived articles. However, feel free to post new articles with questions about specific repairs for which you need advice.

Repairs and Mods
http://continuouswave.com/cgi-bin/forumdisplay.cgi?action=topics& forum=ContinuousWave:+Whaler+Repairs/Mods&number=3

jimh posted 11-09-2008 01:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
With regard to selecting restoration candidates, one important concern is the condition of the Unibond hull and the entrapment of any water in the hull. Water in the hull is difficult to remove, and hulls with interior foam that is holding a lot of water will be problematic. Also see the FAQ for advice on many commonly asked questions regarding Boston Whaler repairs:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/

seabob4 posted 11-09-2008 08:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for seabob4  Send Email to seabob4     
So that all can view.

http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr176/jonathanpwhaler/Whaler/

Ballston posted 11-10-2008 10:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for Ballston  Send Email to Ballston     
I too recently bought a 1970 13'er and with not much $$ made it look pretty good. It's amazing how well the mahogony can be restored and the boat cleaned up great.

If someone could confirm the bottom restoration for me, what I did that was cheapest and easiest was I used Durabak smooth on the bottom to fill in the cracks and protect the bottom from trailer and shore.

This is something you might want to look into, unless a one of the seasoned Whalers would have an issue with.

pglein posted 11-10-2008 11:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for pglein  Send Email to pglein     
Poorly done paint.
VERY poorly done putty repair to the transom.
Counterfeit and improperly placed logo.
Unknown but possibly extensive spider-cracking.

Those are the problems.

Here are the positives:

It appears to have no major structural problems aside from the repair on the transom.
You've got a relatively new, reliable engine to go on it.
Trailer appears to be in relatively good condition and is well sized for the boat.

My recommendation:

This boat has already been painted, so a proper full restoration is not practical. I would attack the entire hull with sandpaper and remove as much as that paint as possible. You'll never get it all off, so don't try. Just get it sanded down so you can apply a new coat of paint. This will be the first time I've recommended someone paint a classic Whaler. I'm generally very opposed. But if this is your first boat, and first restoration, I don't think you should get in over your head. Then you'll need to repair whatever is going on with the transom. Get after it with an angle grinder with about a 100 grit sandpaper wheel on it and open it up. You'll probably need to make a fiberglass repair. This will also give you an opportunity to determine if the wood inside is rotten. If it is, you may need to make more serious repairs.

Once you have the paint sanded down and repairs made, have it painted with Awlgrip inside and out by a professional. You may want to have them look at the boat before you begin sanding so they can let you know just what they expect before they can paint. You can either have it painted to closely match original, or you can have it painted whatever color(s) you want. A flag-blue hull and white topsides would give it a very "yachty" look. Don't have them paint below the waterline, it's a waste of money. Have them paint to about 3" below the waterline. You'll need to toss the motor and interior back in it and put it in the water to mark the waterline. Once they've painted it, paint the bottom with anti-fouling paint.

For the interior, get together with your brother and built a new interior. Carefully assess the original pieces, as some or all of it may be re-used. He may have lots of mahogany, but I'd be surprised if he has any of the 12"x1"x54" pieces needed for the seats. Those seem to be nearly impossible to find. If you replace the steering console, I recommend giving it a slanted top. A flat top will pool water and accellerate the deterioration of the varnish. Use the varnishing recommendations described here http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/whalerWood.html

Install the new rubrail kit described above. This will allow you to put the wires for the bow light inside the rubrail so they won't be tucked under the outside of the gunnel like they are now.

When you rewire the boat, use only high quality tinned copper wire and terminals. Use heat-shrink on any terminals that are exposed to the weather (just about everything on the 13'). You really can't go wrong if you stick with Ancor materials exclusively. There are higher quality products out there, but Ancor is more than good enough. Bundle all the wiring running to the console into one large wire loom to keep it clean. Leaves, pine needeles, bird shit, bottle caps, and dirt have a nasty habit of accumulating in the area between the seat clamps and the gunnel, where the wires are run. If you have them bundled, you will be able to lift the bundle out, and spray this channel out with a hose to keep it clean.

This boat won't be 100% original, but in a way, that's a blessing. Free yourself of the obligation to return it to original and make it whatever you want it to be. It's going to cost you some money and time, but you will thoroughly enjoy it.

Buckda posted 11-10-2008 11:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
I am 100% in accord with pglein's advice...and I even really like his recommendation for color schemes - although I would go with flag blue exterior, desert tan bottom paint (jeffs22outrage can hook you up when you get to that point) or black if you can't find the desert tan, and a desert tan or even light almond interior paint color (not white). Red bootstripe at the waterline.

You can substitute hunter green for the exterior and still have a sharp looking classic.

Good luck - looks like a fun project!

Dave

pglein posted 11-10-2008 01:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for pglein  Send Email to pglein     
As I was writing that, I couldn't help but think about the classic 13' hull my neighbor has sitting in his back yard that is in dire need of restoration. He keeps saying he's going to restore it, but I know he doesn't have he the money.

I might approach him about buying it, and doing exactly as I described above with it.

68whaler13er posted 11-10-2008 03:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for 68whaler13er  Send Email to 68whaler13er     
Thank you for your replies. If I was to jump into this now, what would I do in the way of sanding? Should I bother wet sanding? What grit should I use?
pglein posted 11-10-2008 06:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for pglein  Send Email to pglein     
There is no need to wet sand. You're not going for a smooth finish. In fact, you're looking for just the opposite, you want it roughed up so that new paint will stick.

If you plan to use Awlgrip, I would look at their application guide first to get some guidance:

http://www.awlgrip.com/awlgrip_pages/application_guide_guidelines.htm#6

Tom Hemphill posted 11-10-2008 08:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom Hemphill    
My 1966 13-footer has a recess deliberately carved into the port side interior of the transom to accommodate the ram of my Teleflex steering (see http://hemphill.org/whaler/steering.jpg). The nasty repair in the photo that 68whaler13er has provided suggests to me that the previous owner had and tried to eliminate such a recess.

In this case, I don't see any evidence that transom damage is being covered up. It should be a simple matter to make the shoddy repair look more acceptable.

Aside from that, I find pglein's advice to be very sound.

filthypit posted 11-11-2008 08:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for filthypit  Send Email to filthypit     
looks like the exterior of the hull has pretty extensive spider-cracking. once it has begun, you can't stop it. painting over it might be a temp solution...

best to sand it down & re-coat.
easiest way to do the interior is marine/fiberglass safe paint stripper & pressure washer.

gel-coat is thicker & stinks far less. requires a large nozzle spraygun but should be good in 2 coats. it's fires hot, so will take 2 ppl if you're going to spray it. it's harder to sand/wetsand/polish, but will last a zillion years. gel-coat is approx 30% cheaper.

awlgrip sprays easier but is so thin, you'll need 3-4 coats. can be wet sanded & polished,if necessary.

j244466 posted 11-11-2008 03:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for j244466  Send Email to j244466     
Hi all,
I'm working on a 13 restoration as well. It appears that someone in her past re-gelcoated the interior and exterior. It's come back nicely from a cosmetic point of view but they did lousy prep on the bottom. Looks like they tried to remove old antifouling and did a marginal job so some areas are not adhering.
My plan is to sand the bottom to the original gelcoat, paint with epoxy and then apply antifouling. She will have to sit in the water for the three months of use I can manage each summer, so even though my preference is for no bottom paint, I'll have to just let it go. As for color though, I was thinking about Vivid in white until I saw a comment earlier in this thread about desert tan bottom paint. Is there such a thing? Can Vivid be tinted?
Thanks,
J

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