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Author Topic:   Installing keel roller brackets

NewportMe posted 11-13-2008 02:19 PM ET (US)
Hello all. I am going to install keel rollers on my new trailer over the winter. I will install two rollers on each of three cross-members. How do I bolt the brackets to the cross-members? Do I drill holes through the cross-member for the bolts? O do I place one bolt above the cross-member and one bolt below? In the reference section it looks like LHG through bolted his, but I need some reassurance before drilling through my new cross-members.
Have any of you used the stainless steel pins with grease fittings on them? They don't have to be removed to grease the rollers.
fishgutz posted 11-13-2008 03:33 PM ET (US)
Usually they are attached with those square U-bolts. No drilling needed. You can get galvanized or stainless steel U-bolts. Any boat store or trailer store will have them. Some hardware stores will, too.
L H G posted 11-13-2008 04:51 PM ET (US)
Newport - Generally you can't use U-bolts when there is a bracket on both sides of the cross-member, since the brackets are slotted. You have to use four straight bolts, and I highly recommend the extra cost for stainless, with washers, lock washers and conventional nuts. Lock nuts can seize up (gall) on you, a real pain if it happens.
The Continental Trailers I use have structural steel channel for framing, and come with sets of holes drilled in the neutral axis (centerline) of each cross-member. If you have to drill, do it that way. Since only one set of bolts can allow the roller brackets to "rock" on the frame, I lock them in by placing another set of bolts across the top of the frames, usually dropping the brackets down all the way so that the top of the slots bear on these top bolts. This makes it absolutely IMPOSSIBLE for the double brackets to drop under the weight of the boat. Even if the brackets need to raised as you approach the bow, these four bolts hold them solidly.
Here is a photo of the trailer under my 21 Outrage rib side. The bolts crossing the top of the frames don't show, however, but they are there.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2021/?action=view& current=Scan0042.jpg .
And here is a keel roller trailer I have for sale by Shoreline, which has factory drilled holes in the frame for four bolts, so I did not have to go across the top of the frame.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Trailer/?action=view& current=1251498-R1-041-19.jpg .
One of these systems should work for you.
Casco Bay Outrage posted 11-13-2008 05:26 PM ET (US)
Bruce -
Congrats on the trailer.
You don't mention the type of trailer frame on your new trailer.I have a Load Rite with twin rollers on one cross member. It uses long/wide U bolts.
If you magnify this photo (magnifying glass on top right of the photo frame) you can see the detail.
http://picasaweb.google.com/CascoBayOutrage/ OutrageTrailer#5070447992902167362
It looks identical to the center roller.
http://picasaweb.google.com/CascoBayOutrage/ OutrageTrailer#5070440098752277298
I doubt Hamilton's, Boaters or West has these in stock since they are rather large. I think Gowen can order them without a fuss.
Never heard of rollers with a grease fitting.
Let me know if I can help, only 20 minutes away, ya know.
Phil
jimh posted 11-14-2008 01:20 AM ET (US)
See:
Keel Roller Brackets
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/006175.html
NewportMe posted 11-14-2008 07:15 AM ET (US)
Guys
Thanks for the replies, I think after reading this I will try 4 straight bolts for each pair of brackets. I am planning to use stoltz 12" self centering rollers. I am also looking at putting stainless pins with grease fittings on each end so they can be greased without removal.
Phil I will e-mail you before the install and you can lend a hand or just have a beer. I will e-mail you a link to the pins if you can post it here I would appreciate it.
Bruce
Casco Bay Outrage posted 11-14-2008 08:13 AM ET (US)
Here is the part NewportME is referring to:
http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo& productID=6874&categoryID=205

jenkinsph posted 11-15-2008 10:19 AM ET (US)
Before you buy the self centering rollers check the contact area of the roller grooves against your keel. I was going to do the same thing last year and discovered that the edges of the roller grooves would contact before the keel touches the bottom of the groove.
I bought the wide rollers by Stoltz with the single groove
in the center instead and this worked well for me. I used
a 5" spool roller closest to the bow where the edges of the spool keep the keel aligned with the winch stand. This has worked well so far and I load and launch alone.
Steve
jb4146 posted 11-15-2008 07:51 PM ET (US)
I ran into the same issue as jenkinsph - roller edges contacting but not the the center. But I didn't want to go up to the next width, mainly due to cost considerations. So I mounted my belt sander upside down on the workbench and spun each roller(8" Stoltz) edge by hand against the course belt to knock about3/16" off the outside corner. Ended up with a perfect fit.

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Author	Topic: Installing keel roller brackets
NewportMe	posted 11-13-2008 02:19 PM ET (US) Hello all. I am going to install keel rollers on my new trailer over the winter. I will install two rollers on each of three cross-members. How do I bolt the brackets to the cross-members? Do I drill holes through the cross-member for the bolts? O do I place one bolt above the cross-member and one bolt below? In the reference section it looks like LHG through bolted his, but I need some reassurance before drilling through my new cross-members. Have any of you used the stainless steel pins with grease fittings on them? They don't have to be removed to grease the rollers.
fishgutz	posted 11-13-2008 03:33 PM ET (US) Usually they are attached with those square U-bolts. No drilling needed. You can get galvanized or stainless steel U-bolts. Any boat store or trailer store will have them. Some hardware stores will, too.
L H G	posted 11-13-2008 04:51 PM ET (US) Newport - Generally you can't use U-bolts when there is a bracket on both sides of the cross-member, since the brackets are slotted. You have to use four straight bolts, and I highly recommend the extra cost for stainless, with washers, lock washers and conventional nuts. Lock nuts can seize up (gall) on you, a real pain if it happens. The Continental Trailers I use have structural steel channel for framing, and come with sets of holes drilled in the neutral axis (centerline) of each cross-member. If you have to drill, do it that way. Since only one set of bolts can allow the roller brackets to "rock" on the frame, I lock them in by placing another set of bolts across the top of the frames, usually dropping the brackets down all the way so that the top of the slots bear on these top bolts. This makes it absolutely IMPOSSIBLE for the double brackets to drop under the weight of the boat. Even if the brackets need to raised as you approach the bow, these four bolts hold them solidly. Here is a photo of the trailer under my 21 Outrage rib side. The bolts crossing the top of the frames don't show, however, but they are there. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2021/?action=view& current=Scan0042.jpg . And here is a keel roller trailer I have for sale by Shoreline, which has factory drilled holes in the frame for four bolts, so I did not have to go across the top of the frame. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Trailer/?action=view& current=1251498-R1-041-19.jpg . One of these systems should work for you.
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 11-13-2008 05:26 PM ET (US) Bruce - Congrats on the trailer. You don't mention the type of trailer frame on your new trailer.I have a Load Rite with twin rollers on one cross member. It uses long/wide U bolts. If you magnify this photo (magnifying glass on top right of the photo frame) you can see the detail. http://picasaweb.google.com/CascoBayOutrage/ OutrageTrailer#5070447992902167362 It looks identical to the center roller. http://picasaweb.google.com/CascoBayOutrage/ OutrageTrailer#5070440098752277298 I doubt Hamilton's, Boaters or West has these in stock since they are rather large. I think Gowen can order them without a fuss. Never heard of rollers with a grease fitting. Let me know if I can help, only 20 minutes away, ya know. Phil
jimh	posted 11-14-2008 01:20 AM ET (US) See: Keel Roller Brackets http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/006175.html
NewportMe	posted 11-14-2008 07:15 AM ET (US) Guys Thanks for the replies, I think after reading this I will try 4 straight bolts for each pair of brackets. I am planning to use stoltz 12" self centering rollers. I am also looking at putting stainless pins with grease fittings on each end so they can be greased without removal. Phil I will e-mail you before the install and you can lend a hand or just have a beer. I will e-mail you a link to the pins if you can post it here I would appreciate it. Bruce
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 11-14-2008 08:13 AM ET (US) Here is the part NewportME is referring to: http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo& productID=6874&categoryID=205
jenkinsph	posted 11-15-2008 10:19 AM ET (US) Before you buy the self centering rollers check the contact area of the roller grooves against your keel. I was going to do the same thing last year and discovered that the edges of the roller grooves would contact before the keel touches the bottom of the groove. I bought the wide rollers by Stoltz with the single groove in the center instead and this worked well for me. I used a 5" spool roller closest to the bow where the edges of the spool keep the keel aligned with the winch stand. This has worked well so far and I load and launch alone. Steve
jb4146	posted 11-15-2008 07:51 PM ET (US) I ran into the same issue as jenkinsph - roller edges contacting but not the the center. But I didn't want to go up to the next width, mainly due to cost considerations. So I mounted my belt sander upside down on the workbench and spun each roller(8" Stoltz) edge by hand against the course belt to knock about3/16" off the outside corner. Ended up with a perfect fit.