Author
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Topic: Sterndrive Water Pump Winterization Procedures
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BrianS |
posted 04-20-2009 12:39 PM ET (US)
I used my sterndrive boat for the first time after the fall winterizing. The engine drastically overheated. It appears that the water pump failed. Can a failed water pump immediately upon first use in the spring be caused by ice damage from not properly draining the water from the engine in the fall? I know that improper draining of water from the engine usually results in a cracked block but could it also cause damage to a water pump? Thanks for your input.
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Tohsgib
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posted 04-20-2009 12:50 PM ET (US)
Could be a lot of things but I usually run my engine on a 50/50 mix after I drain it so it has antifreeze in it(enviro friendly stuff for RV's). Just draining the block and manifolds may not protect you enough. A waterpump is no big deal to replace and not worth a trip to the dealer. Just make sure it did not get too hot that it did damage to your riser gaskets, etc. If alarm sounded and you shut it down...no biggie. |
BrianS
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posted 04-20-2009 01:11 PM ET (US)
I also typically use antifreeze as well however I didn't do the work myself last season. The alarm did not sound but the entire engine compartment and boat was full of smoke and it sounded like water boiling vigorously so it must have got real hot. There was also a strong burning smell. I am still trying to determine if a water pump is typically damaged due to freezing from improper engine draining in the fall? We have traced this problem to the water pump and I am trying to determine if it was just a coincidence that the pump failed on first start up in the spring or if it was likely due to ice damage knowing that the winterizing efforts last fall were minimal. |
Tohsgib
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posted 04-20-2009 01:25 PM ET (US)
Internal pump(inside outdrive: alpha drives) or External belt driven by engine(Bravo-Volvo type). If Alpha drive I eoubt it would have frozen, external if not drained would probably freeze but again does not mean it would damage it. How hot did it get? Did you melt the exhaust or any wiring? If so you better pull the risers and replace gaskets, etc. Also find out why alarm did not sound. If you did not fry anything it may have just sounded hot but not hot enough to sound alarm. Did you happen to look at gauge to see actual temp?
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Tohsgib
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posted 04-20-2009 01:28 PM ET (US)
PS..are you reerring to the water pump failing or recuirculating pump(like the main car type one)? This could possibly freeze but without adding anything how would you protect it? |
jimh
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posted 04-20-2009 01:57 PM ET (US)
There are very few Boston Whaler boats with sterndrive set ups. Here in Michigan the sterndrive is very popular. I often see anti-freeze being used to treat the cooling system of a sterndrive for winter storage. I assume this is done precisely to avoid the situation you are in now. |
jimh
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posted 04-20-2009 01:59 PM ET (US)
The best time for water pump service is in the spring commissioning process. In this way the new water pump impeller does not sit all winter and take a set.It is widely believed that sterndrives were invented by mechanics seeking more work. |
BrianS
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posted 04-20-2009 02:05 PM ET (US)
Thanks again for your input. I will need to confirm water pump vs circulating pump. When we first started the engine the 4 water drain screws were not in place and water did not come out of the drain holes while the boat was running so we now assume that that was an indication that the water pump must not have been working. So I will have the mechanic investigate further. Thanks again for your assistance. |
Hilinercc
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posted 04-24-2009 02:21 PM ET (US)
Brian, being a Hiliner owner, for better or for worse, all I deal with are sterndrives, so I have had more than my fair share with "challenges". I pickle the raw water side of my engines with 50/50 water/antifreeze mix when I lay them up, but I had an interesting thing happen one year: My Volvo SX drives have an internal sw pump, like a Bravo, I was out in the boat one year shortly after spring commissioning, and it overheated. When I checked the impeller, the impeller looked fine but the bronze drive bushing inside the impeller "spun" free from the rubber impeller itself, the pump shaft continued turning the bushing, but the impeller vanes stopped pumping water through the heat exchanger. Since then, I've notice Volvo (and Jabsco) put a small set screw in the drive bushing to keep this from happening, but I still religiously replace the impeller at the start of a new season. Once bit, twice shy. |
David Pendleton
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posted 04-25-2009 07:47 PM ET (US)
Very funny, Jim.Not one problem after 10 seasons. Just regular maintenance. Brian, I can give you a little guidance if you're running a Bravo III. |