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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area SHORELAND'R Trailer for Outrage 18
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Author | Topic: SHORELAND'R Trailer for Outrage 18 |
Dan |
posted 06-26-2009 04:09 PM ET (US)
I'm looking for first hand info from people who own current model Shoreland'r Trailers -- especially if they have a classic 18 Outrage. I was quoted $3,350 for a Shoreland'r SLB30AL model -- bunks, forward keel roller, UFP disc brakes, LED lights, directional Goodyear radial tires. An identical spare tire would cost $220, and the bracket for it is $30. A bias spare would be less. The trailer has leaf springs and bearing buddies. It has a weight capacity of 3,000 lbs. It's also aluminum, but the tongue piece and winch are galvanized, as are the tire hubs. Kind of a weird mix to me. Some other manufacturers use torsion bar axles and superlube hubs. Other manufacturers use Kodiak or Tiedown disc brakes. How much better are the radial tires over bias? |
TransAm |
posted 06-26-2009 04:15 PM ET (US)
Why not just buy this one; looks like everything was just replaced and it's a guaranteed fit. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/016736.html |
fishgutz |
posted 06-26-2009 04:29 PM ET (US)
I have a galvanized Shorland'r trailer under my Dauntless 14. I am VERY happy. The dealer in Clermont Florida was very helpful as was the district rep whose office is next door. They cared for my boat as I would have. They asked questions and set it up exactly as I wanted. They only sell trailers. The trailer came with Goodyear Marathon radials. I really don't know what the advantage of the radials is. I guess maybe they are more forgiving? I prefer leaf spring for serviceablity. Springs are readily available all over. A torsion axle is a different story. I've never had a spring fail. The trailer fits like it was custom made for my boat. I had an Eagle Custom trailer that fit terribly, like 380 pounds of tongue weight and NOT adjustable. When I moved here to Florida I upgraded to the galvanized Shoreland'r. All in all I love the Shorland'r trailer. I've had Shoreland'r trailers under other boats. I've always been happy. No one makes an aluminum trailer that will come close to fitting my boat. Plus they don't have folding tongues that would allow my rig to fit in my garage. As for the Galvanized tongue on an aluminum frame trailer, that fairly common. Most trailer companies can reduce their cost by only producing a smaller number of tongues to fit many different trailers. Browse my pics of the trailer. |
Dan |
posted 06-26-2009 05:52 PM ET (US)
Thanks fishgutz. I spoke to one of the people at Shoreland'r to get more info. The reason they use springs instead of torsion axels, is because they had some problems with torsion axels. They said bearing buddies are as good as superlube hubs. I was also told that UFP disc brakes are better than Tiedown brand. They're vented and won't warp, etc... I found a dealer that can put me on a 2009 SLB30AL for a lot less than first dealer -- $2,760 -- that's bunks and aluminum. or a SLRB30AL for under $2,900 -- that's bunks and forward roller cradle under keel -- kind of neat and self-adjusting. Also, dealer said there is no charge for set-up. Second dealer told me Shoreland'r Trailers are better than Loadrite 5Starr line. I'm going to try and see the trailer, which they have in stock, tomorrow. I called Continental today too, problem is they're in Florida. They do have good pricing. I don't think the one LHG is selling is sized for my boat. |
fishgutz |
posted 06-26-2009 06:45 PM ET (US)
A1 Trailer in Clermont Fl didn't charge me anything extra for set up. They spent a lot of time and were very experienced with Whalers. They knew how to properly hoist my boat with their overhead cranes and padded every contact point. The only extra charge was the $100 disposal fee for the old trailer. Ouch. They did take all the wheels off, the winch and my chrome lug nuts for me to give to my brother. My wife was with me. She's all about customer service because of her own business and the Doc she still works remotely for. She was very impressed. It was hot as hell and no one complained at all. If you can, get in touch with the local factory rep. They are very open and helpful. He may even meet you at the dealer. |
Plotman |
posted 06-27-2009 09:54 AM ET (US)
Dan, OF COURSE the guy trying to sell you something is going to tell you that what he is selling is better than the brand x that could be considered an alternative. |
fishgutz |
posted 06-27-2009 10:32 AM ET (US)
I have to agree with Plotman in theory. My experience started with the biggest Alumacraft dealer in the Midwest. They put Shoreland'r trailers under every boat that didn't come from the factory with a trailer or anyone that didn't insist on a custom snappy looking trailer. That dealer told me they never had fit problems and every part is user serviceable. Also I prefer Bearing Buddies. I like the idea of positive pressure on the grease. I think the Eagle trailer I had included those Superlube axle bearing things. I liked that idea of pushing the grease though the axle to the back of the hub and out the front but that was real messy at times. You could change all the grease in the hub that way. Maybe that isn't good. If you're going to change the grease, it is best to tear the hub apart and inspect the bearings and races. Also if there was a bearing or seal problem you wouldn't find out until it was too late. These are just my opinions and observations. For me the whole Shoreland'r package has worked for me for years. |
Ritzyrags |
posted 06-27-2009 12:14 PM ET (US)
Dan, Good to see that you are working hard at solving your trailering needs. Not to reduce the qualities of the trailer dealership industry here; PS- The cooler cleats are working just fine. |
Jeff |
posted 06-27-2009 12:49 PM ET (US)
Drive down to Georgia or Florida and get the Continetal. With the money you saved over over trailers you could pay for gas and other expenses to make a short vacation out of the trip. |
RM NY |
posted 06-27-2009 04:43 PM ET (US)
only problem with getting a trailer so far away from home is when it comes time for adjustment or warranty and parts then what? |
Ritzyrags |
posted 06-27-2009 06:25 PM ET (US)
Do you still have your original trailer? |
jimh |
posted 06-27-2009 07:13 PM ET (US)
The market for boat trailers is generally a local market, and in most areas where there is a high population of boaters you will find local trailer fabricators. Because of the high cost of transportation of a trailer, you generally do not find too many manufacturers selling into a national market. There are a few larger manufacturers of boat trailers who have established a wide distribution network, and you can find their products available in many areas. A few that come to mind, but by no means a completely inclusive list, are E-Z-Loader and Shoreland'r. Others with regional distribution are Phoenix, Pacific, Load-Rite, and Continental. One advantage of buying a trailer made locally is that you often can get a better price, as delivery will be at the point of manufacture. You won't be paying for expensive shipping. I have seen a semi-trailer truck with a huge load of trailers making the rounds delivering one or two to each local dealer in our region. This is the only economical way to ship trailers: 15 or more at a time. Buying a trailer from a national brand manufacturer can have advantages. The manufacturer will likely be around for a few years into the future, they'll probably be able to supply replacement parts, and the value of the trailer may remain higher. |
Dan |
posted 06-28-2009 01:02 AM ET (US)
I saw the Shoreland'r trailer today. The distance from tongue junction to end of trailer is 14'9". My Loadrite is 13'1". The width between the fenders was 82 vs 79 for LR. The Shoreland'r dealer also has Loadrites, and he told me he has them just to meet price points. Further, he has a bunch of Shoreland'r trailers to move boats at his dealership -- sells Grady's, Yamahas and other stuff. Comparing the Shoreland'r trailers side by side with the Loadrite trailers, the Shoreland'r trailers are nicer. Yes, I still have the Loadrite trailer I took some photos of the Shoreland'r, and will post them soon. The model the dealer had has forward keel rollers, with one-foot bunks, and the rear cross members "swivels" and has a pair of four-foot long rollers. These rollers can be replaced with 4 foot bunks. I have to investigate all this further and plan on calling Shoreland'r. I want to get the photos up before speculating about the advantages and disadvantages. I spoke with Continental. One factor I considered, like others here, is the problem of servicing and parts. This is the advantage of a local outfit or national network. I've also considered used but don't want to go on wild goose chases. Plus I want disc brakes, and that makes the chances of finding a good used trailer slimmer. |
mtwilling |
posted 06-28-2009 08:10 AM ET (US)
I have radial tires on my Tennessee Trailer under my 16 Dauntless. They are said to ride softer because the side wall is not as rigid as the bias play and they track straigther as you are trailering. I just bought a spare for mine (st205-75r-14) with a matching modular rim. My local tire shop ordered it for me and it was about $140 including balancing. This was over $200 through the boat supply stores. |
Peter |
posted 06-28-2009 08:50 AM ET (US)
"I spoke with Continental. One factor I considered, like others here, is the problem of servicing and parts." What the heck is there to service on a trailer that you can't service yourself? Except for the frame, the parts (rollers, winches, axles, springs, etc.) on a trailer are standard off the shelf parts. |
Peter |
posted 06-28-2009 08:53 AM ET (US)
Just to add to the above, the last thing you want is a trailer that can only work with custom made parts. If that trailer company goes out of business, you are up a creek when it comes time to replace parts. What you want is a trailer that uses off the shelf parts that are easy to come by and relatively inexpensive. |
jimh |
posted 06-29-2009 09:07 AM ET (US)
The marketplace for boat trailers is extremely competitive in tropical saltwater boating regions. I believe this is due to two factors: the life of a trailer in tropical saltwater is about three years; there are many trailer boaters due to the extremely high cost of coastal property. When I was in South Carolina a few years ago, I visited the local Boston Whaler dealer. I was amazed to see that about one-quarter of his store was devoted to trailer components. You could literally build yourself a trailer from the parts he had hanging on the wall and from the bins on his shelves. Maintenance of trailers used in tropical saltwater is very intensive. There seems to be a steady demand for replacement boat trailers, and there are many sellers. The result is a very competitive market. In contrast, up north here in fresh water land, we see 25-year old trailers in fine condition, and a boat owner seldom buys a replacement trailer. The market for trailers is accordingly smaller and the prices higher. In saltwater coastal areas the cost of waterfront property is astronomically high, so trailer boating is the only way most boaters can reach the water. Again, while in the Carolinas, we made the mistake of going to a launch ramp on a Saturday. My heavens! I never saw so many trucks and trailers. They were literally parked along the roadside for a mile on each side of the completely full launch ramp parking. And this was in October, not exactly prime season. The launch ramp was extremely busy. Again, more trailer customers than you'd see here, where many boats sit on hoists all season and the trailer is only used in spring and fall. Florida is also home to hundreds of boat builders, all buying trailers to put their new boats on. For all these reasons, the market for a boat trailer is extremely large and very competitive in Florida and the Carolinas. You can find trailers there for less than you can up north. |
SC Joe |
posted 06-29-2009 09:48 AM ET (US)
Jimh..Octiber is probably the best part of boating season for us here in SC. Not broiling hot, and if their aren't any hurricanes, the winds start to die down. |
SpongeBob |
posted 06-29-2009 10:23 AM ET (US)
Jim, 3 years? Come on. All of my trailers are over 3 years old, most over 10. I replaced the springs on the trailer for my 22' Outrage at 12 years but that's far cry from saying the trailer was shot and a lot cheaper than a new one. I realize that freshwater trailers last longer but if taken care of trailers used in a saltwater environment do not desintigrate before your eyes. Jeff |
Peter |
posted 06-29-2009 10:35 AM ET (US)
I think those who are freshwater boaters look at those who boat in the saltwater environment as if we were boating in Nitric acid. I think this visual is what comes to mind for the freshwater boaters with respect to dunking a metal trailer into saltwater ==> www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVjQts2zOzE ;) |
Tom W Clark |
posted 06-29-2009 11:22 AM ET (US)
My galvanized LoadRite trailer is now 20 years old. It is working perfectly, drum brakes and all. It has been used in saltwater all of its life. How you care for something has more to do with how long it will last than where you use it. |
Ferryman |
posted 06-29-2009 12:28 PM ET (US)
I agree that how you care for your trailer is what determines how long it will last. I am fortunate the the boatyard where I keep my Whaler provides fresh water washing facilities for your boat and trailer at no charge. You can for a small fee use the pressure washer. I have bearing savers and each wheel and drum have a hole drilled in them so I can fluch the drum out as well |
fishgutz |
posted 06-29-2009 01:21 PM ET (US)
A lot of trailer parts are interchangeable from one company to another. The main difference from one company to another is the basic layout and dimensions of the trailer frame. Bunks, rollers, winches, brackets, u-bolts, fenders, tires and rims, lights, tongues are generally all interchangeable so long as you pick the right size and rating. Even most springs and axles can be bought from other companies. A custom trailer like my old Eagle brand was all welded together so nothing was adjustable or replaceable. At 2000 pounds total weight, it had 380 pounds of tongue weight with the boat moved back as far as it could go. The axle couldn't move forward or backward. Even the tongue jack location was welded in place. I couldn't wait to replace that trailer. |
Dan |
posted 06-29-2009 01:50 PM ET (US)
Okay, this conversation is drifting at sea :) Here's the link to the photos I shot this past Saturday of the Shorelander Trailer SLR30BAl: www.danwagner.com/shorelander62709/index.htm This trailer is set up with rear rollers and a forward keel roller cradle with two small stabilizing bunks forward. Dealer says this would be good for my 18 Outrage and allow for launching and retrieving at any ramp on Long Island. Everyone on CW knows where my head is at on this one. Keel rollers are evil. Dealer said he can replace rear rollers with bunks. The rear crossmember pivots/rotates/swivels -- I don't know the correct term -- so the 4 foot bunks would bear the rear weight. I feel like I'm being led too far astray here. But, it is a nice trailer. The forward keel cradle is cool -- providing it makes proper contact with keel. The rollers in this configuration might be okay because they're in line and close together -- don't know. The workmanship on the Shorelander is very nice. I like the way the trailer wiring runs through a sort of conduit (see photos) along inside of aluminum side frame. I measured the distance from tongue junction to end of trailer and it's 14'9". My Loadwrong is 13'1". Advantage Shorelander. By the way, the dealer sells Shorelanders and Loadwrongs and he told me my Loadwrong is flat out the wrong sized trailer for my boat, no ifs, ands, or buts. The distance between fenders is 82" vs 79" -- an improvement. As I was taking the measurements, dressed in my wedding tux, the dealer said, "I bet somebody really burned you bad." I said, "you don't wanna know." He told me, in this economical environment, some people are not doing right. I asked the president of Tidewater trailers for some advice. He said, "TP3100D which is a pivoting bunk trailer. It has 4 smaller bunks that pivot versus the two stationary long bunks. You actually get better support with the smaller bunks, and the pivot helps in the loading process." I think he makes good points, and it's really nice to deal with a company where the president is wiling to talk to customers. |
Dan |
posted 06-29-2009 01:52 PM ET (US)
"Keel rollers are evil" -- meant to write rollers are evil -- sorry. |
Peter |
posted 06-29-2009 03:19 PM ET (US)
On the Cox trailer for my first 18 Outrage, the trailer was set up with roller bunks somewhat like what you see in your picture (those are not wobble rollers (the blue ones in your photo), wobble rollers are evil for a Whaler). They looked like these shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo& productID=5597&categoryID=221 The use of roller bunks is not a problem at all because when the trailer is set up properly, substantially all of the weight of the boat is on the keel rollers. If my boat was not tied down on the Cox trailer, you could rock the boat very, very, very slightly betwen the roller bunks. They were there merely to provide lateral support to keep the boat from "tipping over". |
Dan |
posted 06-29-2009 03:58 PM ET (US)
Peter, there is not a keel roller at rear cross member, only forward one. So even though it's not wobble rollers, the weight is still on them -- see photo. |
Peter |
posted 06-29-2009 04:12 PM ET (US)
You simply put a keel roller on the end. That's really not the problem with that trailer. The problem I have with that trailer is that the frame is not set up to be a keel roller trailer because it doesn't have enough cross members. You need at least 3 if not 4 cross members for a good keel roller trailer. My Cox trailer had at least 4 cross members. The boat rested on 5 (not doubled up) keel rollers. For a proper keel roller trailer frame, see the picture of the Continental tilt keel roller trailer in the Contintental Trailer's catalog. Even my current aluminum float-on style trailer has 3 cross members. But I don't have it set up as a keel roller trailer. Again not necessary to have all keel rollers with a float-on style trailer if you have inner bunks adjacent the keel supporting the weight at the stern. |
Dan |
posted 06-29-2009 05:29 PM ET (US)
Peter, it's not easy finding trailers in my area with more than 2 crossmembers. Problem with adding a keel roller to rear crossmember is that the center light is in the way, and requires a special bracket to accept the keel roller. I started this thread primarily to get feedback on a Shorelander trailer -- this one specifically. I know what you mean about two center bunks to support keel weight. I've spoken with various trailer dealers in my area, and they just want to "tell me" not listen. They all know it all, have seen it all, and can make anything work -- that is until they actually have to make it work and already have your money. None of the people I've shown the Whaler measurements diagram showed any interest in it. Frankly, it's been weird. They're all hurting for biz, but won't make the effort. Peter, please let some others view the photos and weigh in. |
fishgutz |
posted 06-29-2009 07:47 PM ET (US)
I think keel rollers are over rated. If 4 bunks like I have damage the hull then there is something wrong with the hull. Not only are there a lot of cheaper boats on all bunk trailers with NO keel rollers, there are alot of cheaper boats on ALL roller trailers that have never sustained any damage. I like my set up because the boat stays on the trailer when I drive the boat on and slides off easily when I push it off. I have no need for keel rollers or any rollers for that matter. The boat always centers itself and there is no chance of my hull banging into any hard part of the rear cross member if I drive up off center. I used to have an all roller trailer with an aluminum boat. It came in handy when I had to launch on a level surface (bad ramp or no ramp). I could never drive it on when I was alone. And most places I had to crank it down off the trailer because it would launch too fast. Dan, get what you want. A good dealer will do what you want. If there is really a problem they should know that and inform you why. And you are correct, there are few trailers available with multiple keel rollers. I guess I really had an unusually good experience at A1 Trailer in Clermont FL. |
Hoosier |
posted 06-29-2009 08:45 PM ET (US)
I have a Shoreland'r under my 1978 Outrage V-20 and it's a perfect fit. Be sure to order the optional 4 roller forward keel roller assembly. It does make a difference. |
Dan |
posted 06-29-2009 09:02 PM ET (US)
Hoosier, do you have the same 4 roller assembly as the one I photographed in my link above? |
Dan |
posted 06-29-2009 09:09 PM ET (US)
I just realized I was spelling Shoreland'r incorrectly. Thanks JimH. |
Hoosier |
posted 06-30-2009 09:34 AM ET (US)
Yes. |
Plotman |
posted 06-30-2009 01:06 PM ET (US)
For way, way less that $3300 you ought to be able to find a good, solid used trailer, strip everything off of it, and then buy all the bunk brackets and rollers you could ever want from champion or some other trailer parts supplier and rig the trailer yourself. I did this for my first 22 Outrage. Paid $600 for a good dual axle trailer from a guy who kept his boat on a lift year-round and didn't want a trailer in his yard. Then spent $300 having a local fabricator weld up two new crossmembers and having them galvanized. Finally spent around $250 in parts from Champion and ended up with a trailer with 6 keel rollers and bunks. Took a saturday afternoon to install everything on the trailer. Since you know the deadrise on a whaler, figuring how high to set the bunks relative to the height of the top of the rollers is simple trig. My new (current) Outrage came on a $4000 ez-loader that isn't as well set up as the one that cost me a total of a little over a grand. Went the same route for my classic this spring, though the total there was under $500, as I just cut the new crossmembers myself out of 3x3 angle and painted them. |
fishgutz |
posted 06-30-2009 02:12 PM ET (US)
Dan, FOR WAY WAY LESS go to a junk yard and get a bunch of old metal bed frames. Pay someone to weld them together. Better yet take a welding class at the local community college and weld them yourself. Then build yourself a big vat fill it with Zinc, melt it and galvanize the trailer yourself. Then get those wheels off of a couple of your neighbors garbage carts when they put their garbage out and put them on your nice new shine galvanized frame. Tape some toilet paper rolls on the frame and screw a couple 2 by 4s down to make bunks. There you go all set with your homemade trailer. I think the advice is getting out of hand. I realize you just want to get on the water with a new trailer. Good luck, man. |
brisboats |
posted 06-30-2009 03:05 PM ET (US)
There has to be a happy medium. What Plotman says makes perfect sense to me. Knowing how to use a cutting torch and a welder does lessen the occurrence of pesky trailer related sleep interruptions. brian |
fishgutz |
posted 06-30-2009 03:39 PM ET (US)
And to be even more prepared, mount the torch and welder to the trailer so when something breaks on the freeway you can fix it right there. |
george nagy |
posted 06-30-2009 03:43 PM ET (US)
fishgutz, that reminds me of the original HERBIE THE LOVE BUG movie where the guy in the back is welding the car back together during the race. HUH! Very Funny in-deed! |
Jkcam |
posted 06-30-2009 03:55 PM ET (US)
I just bought a cargo trailer that my boat and boat trailer sit on just in case the cargo trailer is hit by a meteor on my way to the ramp. I try to cover all possibilities....sadly as a consequence, in over 50 years of boat ownership, I have only been out on the water twice. |
fishgutz |
posted 06-30-2009 04:06 PM ET (US)
Jkcam, you nailed it. |
Peter |
posted 06-30-2009 04:15 PM ET (US)
Can you get keel rollers on that cargo trailer? |
george nagy |
posted 06-30-2009 05:36 PM ET (US)
cargo trailers can't be de-bunked! |
outragesteve |
posted 06-30-2009 06:14 PM ET (US)
fishgutz: I have a trailer just like your 2009 model with one design change: I found using paper towel tubes vs t/p tubes keeps my keel from being nicked. I also leave precisely 13.57 rolls of paper on the tube (dialed in with a micrometer) is perfect. (That made need re-engineering depending on the mil thickness of your bottom paint) |
Dan |
posted 06-30-2009 06:42 PM ET (US)
To the peanut gallery, take that act to your local boater improv night. Big big thanks to Hoosier, for sending me photos of his Shoreland'r trailer with the same set up -- forward keel roller cradle, and rear in-line rollers where short bunks would be. Nice set-up. Thanks Hoosier! Also, I spoke with Shoreland'r today and they were very helpful, and answered all my questions in great detail. They were very adamant about the necessity of having the transom supported -- unlike LR. I provided some measurements from the diagram Whaler sent, and Shoreland'r verified the fit. |
Dan |
posted 06-30-2009 07:03 PM ET (US)
Here's some more info from Hoosier (David), Q: Have you noticed any indents or dimpling in your hull from the rollers? That's my big concern because the weight rests there. Also, did you consider getting the short bunks instead of the rollers? A: My boat is a 1978 Outrage V-20, it weighs 2000 lbs with the motor, I haven't noticed any dimpling. The longer rollers distribute the weight more. Boat ...1500 lbs Total...3K lbs +/- Try that with today's Whalers. The boat's bigger than my car. Q: I think the bow has to rest downward because the keel cradle isn't adjustable. I guess while trailer-ing just leave the plugs out, and while in the driveway, raise the bow with the jack. A: That's what I did and when trailering,if it rains, we'll look for an inclined driveway or a hill to let it drain. Q: Does the boat sit low enough to get her in the garage? A: Not this (standard) garage, but my pole barn has 14' doors.....
Thank you, it was featured in Jim's V-20 reference article. Q: Do you have disc brakes? If yes, do you like them? A: I think so. They seem to work OK. The big problem that I haven't dealt with is the trailer has a flat five plug, number five disabled the brakes when backing. My cars are fitted with factory falt four connectors so I have to be sure the backing lockout is in place. 30% of the time it isn't, not a good design. Q: Is the tongue weight good? A: Again, I think so, the boat track perfectly on the highway. My car has too soft a rear suspension and it squats too much when the trailer is hooked up. I can't fix that due to the design of the car. (I suggested David get a receiver that raises ball height to 18-21 inches -- that is if it isn't this high already, and if this conforms with Shoreland'r guidelines -- my LR dealer sent me on my way with a ball height so low I couldn't deploy tongue jack -- nice.) |
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