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Author Topic:   1993 Yamaha 115: Price, Pitfalls

98expeditionXLT posted 03-17-2010 11:19 AM ET (US)
I have a chance to purchase a 1993 Yamaha 115 in above average condition. Lower unit is in good shape also. From the information I have the early years were spent in freshwater, and the last seven to eight in saltwater in the northeast. The motor was also marina maintained for the most part, and it does not appear to have signs of abuse or neglect. [Cylinder pressure] is around 115 to 118-PSI for all cylinders. Carburetors were rebuilt last year after water problem in the fuel. Shift shaft does not appear to be solid. Was [the Yamaha shift shaft made of] stainless [steel] in 1993? Since I only use my boat for about 100-hours per year, maximum, I am considering this as a reasonable upgrade from my 1988 Yamaha 115 which runs well.
What is a fair price for this outboard based on the information I have presented? What problems should I anticipate?
Thanks.
tom976 posted 03-17-2010 11:27 AM ET (US)
I cant say anything about the price, the cheaper the better to cushion any blows for repair.
As for the engine, I'd want to review when the lower unit impeller (water pump) was changed as well as lower unit fluids. Plugs and a new fuel filter should be in there too. As for problems, the thermostats need replacement every few years. (people overlook that one allot) If not the get crusted up nicely with salt and block water flow.
rtk posted 03-17-2010 06:32 PM ET (US)
I purchased a mid 1990's Yamaha 115 a couple of years ago. The engine appeared to be in excellent condition- you could eat off the powerhead.
Paint was perfect on the rest of the engine as well.
I installed it on a buddies boat and after 2 runs there was a crack in the lower unit gear housing. After scraping the paint away I discovered it had been filled and painted.
I made some inquiries and found out that this is not terribly uncommon for this year range Yamaha engine.
There is a large "nut" that holds the bearing carrier in. If you take the prop off you will see it. Apparently corrosion builds up between this "nut" and the lower unit housing. The corrosion may build up and cause a split.
It is not leaking after a season of use though. The bearings seem to be located a good distance from where the housing and the prop meet.
There are other anecdotal comments I have read about early Yamaha outboards corrosion problems.
I have also seen it happen on older Mercury inboard/outboard lower units back in the 1980s.
Rich

98expeditionXLT posted 03-17-2010 06:47 PM ET (US)
Rich,
I know excatly what you are referring to. On my current 115 I was fortunate enough to see that and I was able to split that large ring nut, remove it in pieces, clean the threads in the housing, grease everything up good and reassemble, without any cracks in the housing.
rtk posted 03-17-2010 07:00 PM ET (US)
And tom976 makes a great point. It is an old engine. When buying an old engine you are rolling the dice. Could run great and have no problems for a couple of years or you may be faced with a significant repair bill the day after you take possesion even after a dilligent pre-delivery inspection and test.
This engine I purchased looked brand new. Ran great on an engine stand. I purchased the engine from a private individual who was affiliated with a different engine manufacturer.
He purchased a used Whaler with this engine but was going to repower with the brand that he was affiliated.
I believe he was honest with me that he never put the boat in the water and ran the engine installed on the boat. He simply purchased the boat, removed the engine and offered it for sale.
Turns out the carbs were clogged and needed a link and synch after I installed it on my buddies boat.
I paid a premium price for this engine and wound up spending close to $900 to have a bunch of work done to bring it up to snuff.
Then the lower unit cracked after dumping the money into it.
Shame on me for not running the engine under a load before purchasing it. But that is the risk you take- I did not exercise or insist on this option.
So moral of the story is if you cannot run the engine installed on a boat I'd be very careful. A compression test on an engine stand is not going to show carb problems and possibly will not show ignition problems. Testing an engine on a hose is much different than testing an engine influenced by a load.
If I were to do it again I would spend more than $1000 on an engine of this age even if it checked out perfect. If it didn't check out I would pass and keep looking for a better engine.
Rich

rtk posted 03-17-2010 07:04 PM ET (US)
Glad you caught that in time. I would recommend that as regular maintenance on any lower unit to be honest. It is not terribly uncommon on outboards and inboard/outboard lower units run in salt.
I may look into doing that on my 6 year old Mercury to avoid problems and make future repairs if needed easier.
Rich
jimh posted 03-18-2010 08:12 PM ET (US)
$2,050.

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Author	Topic: 1993 Yamaha 115: Price, Pitfalls
98expeditionXLT	posted 03-17-2010 11:19 AM ET (US) I have a chance to purchase a 1993 Yamaha 115 in above average condition. Lower unit is in good shape also. From the information I have the early years were spent in freshwater, and the last seven to eight in saltwater in the northeast. The motor was also marina maintained for the most part, and it does not appear to have signs of abuse or neglect. [Cylinder pressure] is around 115 to 118-PSI for all cylinders. Carburetors were rebuilt last year after water problem in the fuel. Shift shaft does not appear to be solid. Was [the Yamaha shift shaft made of] stainless [steel] in 1993? Since I only use my boat for about 100-hours per year, maximum, I am considering this as a reasonable upgrade from my 1988 Yamaha 115 which runs well. What is a fair price for this outboard based on the information I have presented? What problems should I anticipate? Thanks.
tom976	posted 03-17-2010 11:27 AM ET (US) I cant say anything about the price, the cheaper the better to cushion any blows for repair. As for the engine, I'd want to review when the lower unit impeller (water pump) was changed as well as lower unit fluids. Plugs and a new fuel filter should be in there too. As for problems, the thermostats need replacement every few years. (people overlook that one allot) If not the get crusted up nicely with salt and block water flow.
rtk	posted 03-17-2010 06:32 PM ET (US) I purchased a mid 1990's Yamaha 115 a couple of years ago. The engine appeared to be in excellent condition- you could eat off the powerhead. Paint was perfect on the rest of the engine as well. I installed it on a buddies boat and after 2 runs there was a crack in the lower unit gear housing. After scraping the paint away I discovered it had been filled and painted. I made some inquiries and found out that this is not terribly uncommon for this year range Yamaha engine. There is a large "nut" that holds the bearing carrier in. If you take the prop off you will see it. Apparently corrosion builds up between this "nut" and the lower unit housing. The corrosion may build up and cause a split. It is not leaking after a season of use though. The bearings seem to be located a good distance from where the housing and the prop meet. There are other anecdotal comments I have read about early Yamaha outboards corrosion problems. I have also seen it happen on older Mercury inboard/outboard lower units back in the 1980s. Rich
98expeditionXLT	posted 03-17-2010 06:47 PM ET (US) Rich, I know excatly what you are referring to. On my current 115 I was fortunate enough to see that and I was able to split that large ring nut, remove it in pieces, clean the threads in the housing, grease everything up good and reassemble, without any cracks in the housing.
rtk	posted 03-17-2010 07:00 PM ET (US) And tom976 makes a great point. It is an old engine. When buying an old engine you are rolling the dice. Could run great and have no problems for a couple of years or you may be faced with a significant repair bill the day after you take possesion even after a dilligent pre-delivery inspection and test. This engine I purchased looked brand new. Ran great on an engine stand. I purchased the engine from a private individual who was affiliated with a different engine manufacturer. He purchased a used Whaler with this engine but was going to repower with the brand that he was affiliated. I believe he was honest with me that he never put the boat in the water and ran the engine installed on the boat. He simply purchased the boat, removed the engine and offered it for sale. Turns out the carbs were clogged and needed a link and synch after I installed it on my buddies boat. I paid a premium price for this engine and wound up spending close to $900 to have a bunch of work done to bring it up to snuff. Then the lower unit cracked after dumping the money into it. Shame on me for not running the engine under a load before purchasing it. But that is the risk you take- I did not exercise or insist on this option. So moral of the story is if you cannot run the engine installed on a boat I'd be very careful. A compression test on an engine stand is not going to show carb problems and possibly will not show ignition problems. Testing an engine on a hose is much different than testing an engine influenced by a load. If I were to do it again I would spend more than $1000 on an engine of this age even if it checked out perfect. If it didn't check out I would pass and keep looking for a better engine. Rich
rtk	posted 03-17-2010 07:04 PM ET (US) Glad you caught that in time. I would recommend that as regular maintenance on any lower unit to be honest. It is not terribly uncommon on outboards and inboard/outboard lower units run in salt. I may look into doing that on my 6 year old Mercury to avoid problems and make future repairs if needed easier. Rich
jimh	posted 03-18-2010 08:12 PM ET (US) $2,050.