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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
Montauk Project Complete
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| Author | Topic: Montauk Project Complete |
| divtruk |
posted 07-31-2011 08:14 PM ET (US)  
My 1988 Montauk rebuild is finished. I want to say thanks to all the people on this site who helped me along the way. Had her out twice so far and I can't be happier. http://www.flickr.com/photos/14929283@N03/5996103436/in/ set-72157627202270919 http://www.flickr.com/photos/14929283@N03/5995545905/in/ set-72157627202270919 Http://www.flickr.com/photos/14929283@N03/5995547477/in/ set-72157627202270919/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14929283@N03/5996102856/in/ set-72157627202270919 Both times out it was a bit rough so I do not have any performance numbers yet. I hope to get her to a lake where it's smooth and I can open up to WOT and see what she will do. I will post some numbers when I do. Thanks again to all who helped me and all the valuable info on this site. Chip 1988 Montauk |
| geo15sport |
posted 07-31-2011 08:25 PM ET (US)
Excellent work Chip, congratulations! That's a sweet Montauk. |
| pete r |
posted 07-31-2011 08:38 PM ET (US)
Divtrk, In the past 2 years I have looked at a lot of BW's on the net before I eventually bought one. Yours would have to be one of the best I've seen so far. Well done! Cheers, Pete R |
| dowdhh |
posted 07-31-2011 08:51 PM ET (US)
Chip, you should be very proud of all the work required to get that end result, it's a beauty. The Etec on that bracket looks bad ass, as will be the performance, I'm sure. Good Job! |
| Waterwonderland |
posted 08-01-2011 02:10 PM ET (US)
Great job. As one who still has a work in progress, I really appreciate your efforts. |
| Tohsgib |
posted 08-01-2011 02:16 PM ET (US)
I love a nice refurb...can count how many I have done and are in the process of 2 as we speak...maybe a 3rd(Donzi 22 classic). You can go higher on the jackplate but it depends on the conditions you run in mostly. |
| montauk madness |
posted 08-01-2011 02:23 PM ET (US)
Looks Great. I love that engine jack plate combination. |
| whaler131 |
posted 08-01-2011 03:35 PM ET (US)
Outstanding, I like the jack plate also. How much does it help? |
| home Aside |
posted 08-01-2011 04:25 PM ET (US)
1st off, well done, that's one beautiful Montauk! I'm curious & interested in your mounting brackets for your paddle & boat hook, they look very neat, room saving, & functional. Can you elaborate on the manufacturer, what they are called, and where they can be found? Pat |
| divtruk |
posted 08-01-2011 05:43 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all the comments! It was definately a labor of love. I have always wanted a Montauk. Several of you have asked about the boat hook and paddle holders. They are available from West Marine. About $20 dollars a pair. They fit perfect at the bottom of the rear rails and keep things out of the way. I have not been able to find out the full performance of the motor jack plate combo yet. I am hoping to get it out on a nice flat lake in the near future to fine tune the height and trim. Both times I have taken it out it was on the ocean (Monterey Bay and SF Bay)there was a swell coming through and it was a bit too rough to really open her up. I will post some numbers once I get her out again. Chip |
| Tohsgib |
posted 08-01-2011 08:23 PM ET (US)
The 90 E-Tec is not the fastest but with the right setup you might see 43ish....maybe a tad more if you REALLY dial it in. |
| andygere |
posted 08-01-2011 09:40 PM ET (US)
Super clean, well done. I like how you adapted the enormous BRP binnacle control to the console. Nice detail. |
| Sal A |
posted 08-02-2011 05:40 AM ET (US)
Fantastic. |
| domlynch |
posted 08-02-2011 07:18 AM ET (US)
Looks very nice, especially on the water. That varnish looks terrific ! |
| number9 |
posted 08-02-2011 10:33 AM ET (US)
She sure is gorgeous. Congratulations on the completion. You did/do excellent work. Bill |
| Sourpuss1 |
posted 08-02-2011 01:22 PM ET (US)
Bristol, especially the brightwork. I have to ask what the wire / cable is that is wire tied to the fuel supply hose near the gas tank ("Rear" photo)? Thanks for posting the photos! |
| divtruk |
posted 08-02-2011 03:04 PM ET (US)
Sourpuss: That is a fuel flow sensor from Lowrance. I had it left over from a project on a Wellcraft that I sold a few years ago. It works out nice. Let's me have a display of GPH right on my chart page. |
| ib00269 |
posted 09-01-2011 02:58 PM ET (US)
Beautiful boat. Well done! I have an '86 Montauk 17'. I refinished all the wood over last winter. I just took it out of the lake for this season and will be redoing the console gauge panel. I was going to do it out of teak; I noticed that you used aluminum instead of wood for the gauge panel, but used teak for the shelf above the console. That's the first time I've noticed that done. It may be common, but I haven't seen before. Any info on source for the teak or what inspired you to do it that way? I'm kind of inspired to follow your lead on that shelf. I also need to redo the sump cover and plan to do it in teak. After I get the gauge panel redone in wood, I'm concerned regarding how to go about finding "lettering" to correspond with the gauges. I want it to look professional. |
| Nevek |
posted 09-01-2011 04:19 PM ET (US)
Looks awesome! A couple questions: What is the little off white yellow box mounted near the transom? It has some wires going to it. Also, is the a flag pole holder next to it? Or maybe a mount for running lights? Is it common practice to run the bilge pump into the back compartment thing instead of over the side? How much was the jack plate and how do you control it?
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| divtruk |
posted 09-02-2011 12:05 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the comments! ib00269, I got the idea for the teak on top of the console from a picture I saw on the web. I am not sure if it was on this site or whalercentral.com. I just liked the way it looked. The guy that lives across the street from me is a retired woodshop teacher and he turned the cup holder for me on his lathe. Nevek, the box near the back is a cover over a terminal block that feeds the lighting. The power for the bow light goes through the hull at that point and runs up to the bow under the rubrail. The bracket that looks like a flag pole holder is for the anchor light pole. As far as the bilge pump not going over the side, I just have not found a way to do it that I like. I very seldom even run the pump so its not that big of deal. I figured that if there is ever a time when I that much of a problem getting the water out I have much bigger problems to deal with. It's a pretty small pump. The jack plate is a manual plate. There is no control of it. Once the height is set you tighten down some bolts and it is set. Chip |
| divtruk |
posted 09-02-2011 12:06 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the comments! ib00269, I got the idea for the teak on top of the console from a picture I saw on the web. I am not sure if it was on this site or whalercentral.com. I just liked the way it looked. The guy that lives across the street from me is a retired woodshop teacher and he turned the cup holder for me on his lathe. Nevek, the box near the back is a cover over a terminal block that feeds the lighting. The power for the bow light goes through the hull at that point and runs up to the bow under the rubrail. The bracket that looks like a flag pole holder is for the anchor light pole. As far as the bilge pump not going over the side, I just have not found a way to do it that I like. I very seldom even run the pump so its not that big of deal. I figured that if there is ever a time when I that much of a problem getting the water out I have much bigger problems to deal with. It's a pretty small pump. The jack plate is a manual plate. There is no control of it. Once the height is set you tighten down some bolts and it is set. Chip |
| divtruk |
posted 09-02-2011 12:08 AM ET (US)
I hate when it posts twice.... |
| ib00269 |
posted 09-02-2011 12:19 AM ET (US)
Nice to have a woodworking guy next door. I didn't notice the cup holder, and I desperately need something to hold a drink when I'm on the lake. I'll look again at your pictures. I've got a woodworking shop and a lathe. I never thought about turning one. I just may do that. Thanks for the insight. It was teak that your neighbor used for the shelf, wasn't it? Do you know if he had a particular source for acquiring. I need some for the gauge cover, now the shelf, and the sump cover. |
| ib00269 |
posted 09-02-2011 12:25 AM ET (US)
Wow, I relooked at the shelf. I'm definitely going to do that. And I love the cup holder! Was he able to find a chunk of teak thick enough to be able turn that, or did he use some other wood? It really, really looks good. Also, it looks like the shelf sits proud a little bit above the fiber glass shelf that it sits on. Did you put some rubber spacers between the bottom of the wooden shelf and fiber glass before you affixed, or is it sitting proud an optical illusion? Thanks again. |
| Mr T |
posted 09-02-2011 01:31 AM ET (US)
Simply a gorgeous piece of work- You are to be commended for the effort and the result! |
| Basshole |
posted 09-02-2011 01:42 AM ET (US)
That may be one of the nicest looking boats I have ever seen! I am picking up a 1990 Montauk that was garage kept, mostly freshwater used in a week. It will be my SternSaver test boat ;) I hope I see you out on the bay in that beauty sometime! |
| domlynch |
posted 09-02-2011 02:12 AM ET (US)
Chip, I have an '88 too, in basically good nick. All teak + mahogany is in good shape (i.e has good integrity, no splitting or rot etc) but needs removal from the rig, stripping, then refinishing (I'm a fan of varnish, or possibly varnish over epoxy) Any ideas on the no. of man hours (or days or weeks)for the brightwork: Assuming 1 person to do all the work: Remove all timber from boat - 1/2 day Sand/strip RPS backrest - 1 day Sand/strip console doors/fire extinguisher enclosure - 1 day with Dremel Tool (?)or similar Sand/strip mahongany anchor locker cover - 1 day Then: 1St coat varnish everything once - 1 day Light Sand everything again - 1 day 2nd coat Varnish - 1 day etc....until say you have 6-8 coats with a nice gloss... Maybe 21 man days to get the varnishing + in between coat sanding done ....... I reckon it would take me 3 weeks or so, with all the work... interspersed with the occasional beer....... |
| divtruk |
posted 09-02-2011 11:43 AM ET (US)
The shelf on top is a solid piece of teak 1" thick that is mounted on slightly smaller piece of teak that is only 1/4" thick. That's what gives it that floating look. I beveled the front and rear edges to match the angles on the console. The cup holder was turned from a block of teak made from six wedged pieces glued together. It came out nice because there is no end grain showing on the outside. |
| ib00269 |
posted 09-04-2011 11:21 PM ET (US)
To Domlynch, I redid all of the wood on my '86 Montauk over the winter. I only put six coats of spar varnish, lightly sanding between each coat, but all pieces came out beautiful. The louvered doors were probably the toughest because of the tight spaces. The best purchase I ever made was a contour sander with all the rubber attachments with slide on sanding tubes. 90% of the sanding was done by hand, without the power tool, just holding the various contour pieces. You use so much less sand paper and it does a great job. Completing the teak on the RPS, center console doors, and bow compartment cover probably took two weeks due to the obvious iterative drying times required. Our local power company, who owns the lake, has dropped the lake water more than usual for this time of year, making our docks sit in very low water, so I just took my boat out of the water for the season and before I put on the cover, I decided to go ahead and remove all the console components and label every wire carefully. I'll now order teak to build the shelf like Divtruk installed in his, but I'm going to turn and install two cupholders, one one each side of the new shelf. I've decided to go with a full teak instrument panel. This should keep me busy. My only worry is figuring out how to get professional looking lettering adjacent to the instruments/switches/fuse, and hopefully "all" of the components will be long enough to fit into a slightly thicker instrument panel than the previous aluminum panels. And to Divtruk, thanks again for the info, and you did a masterful job of your restore. It's beautiful. |
| Tohsgib |
posted 09-05-2011 11:25 AM ET (US)
Gauges will be long enough but might be too long. You "might" have to cut the "[" shaped part that holds the gauge to the dash. Usually they have notches where it is thinner and easier to cut. |
| ib00269 |
posted 09-05-2011 12:14 PM ET (US)
Tohsgib, I'm thinking of using 1/2" teak and know the gauges with the "U" brackets will be pretty easy to adapt. (I wish I could use 1/4" teak but I'm assuming it would not provide the required rigidity). Actually, with a 1/2" panel, I'm more worried about the light pull switches, three fuses, and one accessory cigarette lighter. The original aluminum panels appeared to be 1/16" on one side, and 1/8" on the other. Replacing with a new 1/2' teak panel probably stretches the usable thread length on some of these original components. Regarding the orignal cigarette lighter/accessory, it has a rubber plug, similar in look to the hull plugs, to insert when not in use, but it has a rubber/plastic ring around the base that gives it a nice, clean look when installed in the dash. That rubber ring has cracked, split, and separated. Does anyone have an idea where to obtain a replacement ring? I'd like to keep the original accessory if possible. And to Divtruk, might I ask where you find the best source for the teak? Also, would you mind sharing the turning specs on the cupholder and where you obtained the white insert? I'm assuming the insert is removable to allow collected condensation/moisture to be poured out, or is there a weep hole in the bottom of the cupholder and that's the reason for a hidden 1/4" base, providing a gap for the moisture to exhaust? Sorry to be anal about this, but I like to have my ducks all lined up on a project before I start it. |
| Tohsgib |
posted 09-05-2011 12:21 PM ET (US)
OEM wood consoles are 1" thich so I think you should be fine. If not you will need to chisel out the back portion to make it thinner on a couple items. Push pulls for the lights I think only come in one length so they should be fine. If they do come in 2 lengths just buy longer ones, whaler just used a Tempo or whatever brand, nothing fancy. |
| divtruk |
posted 09-05-2011 05:12 PM ET (US)
There are a few wood suppliers in my area so I was able to walk in and pick out the piece I wanted with the best grain. The cup holder insert is from West Marine. It was about $5-6. I just gave the insert to the guy across the street and told him what I wanted. I didn't really see it while he was making it so I don't know the spacs. |
| domlynch |
posted 09-05-2011 10:43 PM ET (US)
Thanks IB20069, I like to have my ducks lined up too, wondering what brand/model of contour sander you used, maybe a Dremel ? Re timbers, as per divtruck I would hand select pieces with nice grain. |
| Basshole |
posted 09-07-2011 03:30 AM ET (US)
Divtruk- did you buy the wood @ Macbeath in SF? |
| ib00269 |
posted 09-07-2011 11:50 AM ET (US)
Domlynch, yes the sander is a Dremel Contour Sanding Kit. I can't say enough good things about how handy it has been. I've used the rubber pieces by hand even more than I've used them in the sander itself. The kit is very useful on projects like the louvered Montauk console doors. Divtruk, sorry to keep bugging you on this, but do you know whether or not your friend just glued the turned cupholder to the shelf, or did he actually "recess" it and glue it in place? I'm assuming the inserts are removable such that you can pour out any collected moisture, right? And to anyone, if someone can tell me the best way to accomplish professional looking lettering adjacent to each instrument panel item on a new Teak instrument panel, I'd appreciate your insight. Thanks to all. |
| Newtauk1 |
posted 09-07-2011 12:09 PM ET (US)
Outstanding! |
| ib00269 |
posted 09-07-2011 01:55 PM ET (US)
Divtruk, another question if you don't mind. Your black instrument panel looks superb. I'm assuming you had to remove the steering wheel, as I will have to do to install a teak panel. I know there are detailed instructions on how to do this, but I wonder what you experienced; was it difficult to do, and did you have to use a puller? |
| Tom Ray |
posted 09-07-2011 06:54 PM ET (US)
I think that if I had a boat that beautiful, I would seal it in a dark room with a nitrogen atmosphere. I sure wouldn't want to mess it up with sand and salt water! Great job on the best looking Montauk I have ever seen. |
| divtruk |
posted 09-08-2011 12:24 AM ET (US)
I live in the Santa Cruz area. I bought the wood at Jackel lumber in Watsonville. As far as the dash panel, I removed the whole steering system as I was replacing it with a hydraulic system (Baystar). I used a gear puller to remove the steering wheel as it was on pretty tight. The panel is made from a sheet of 1/16" aluminum sheet I picked up at a local metal supply. I cut all the holes then sanded it and painted it with Rust-Oleum Textured black paint (#7220). After installing it I bolted the new steering helm pump over it. If there is anyone in the Santa Cruz or SF Bay area that is interested in the old Teleflex steering I still have it |
| domlynch |
posted 09-12-2011 03:30 AM ET (US)
Thanks ib00269, I'll have to get a Dremel + the willpower to start... |
| Queequeg |
posted 09-12-2011 11:04 AM ET (US)
Very Nice. What purpose does the Jack Plate serve. I just bought an 88 Montauk and I am interested in re-powering with an E-Tech. Thanks |
| Basshole |
posted 09-13-2011 02:40 PM ET (US)
I ended up finding (and buying) a beautiful 86' garage kept Montauk last weekend. The 90' I originally was going to purchase was not in the condition the owner said it was in, so I passed. Your rehab job is really inspirational and I hope to get mine as clean looking as your's someday. Now I just need to find a good deal on an Etec. |
| elaelap |
posted 09-13-2011 05:47 PM ET (US)
Absolutely beautiful! Maybe I'll tow my '82 MT down to Half Moon Bay and chase salmon alongside you...if you're not afraid of getting some blood on that pristine deck ;-) Tony |
| domlynch |
posted 09-15-2011 10:10 PM ET (US)
divtruck my god she is pretty...I just went downstairs to my garage to look at my '88 and yours is an inspiration. Jeez these things are nice machines.... |
| divtruk |
posted 09-15-2011 11:43 PM ET (US)
I was finally able to get the boat out on a calm lake and do some fine tuning on the motor and jackplate combination. These are the best numbers (based on top speed achieved) I got using a Stiletto 13-1/4” x 15 prop. I have posted more information on the “Whaler Performance” board if you want all the details. The boat is a 1988 Montauk with a Rite-Hite 5” jackplate and 2006 90hp Etec with a 13-1/4x15 Stiletto SS prop. The jackplate was set with the cavitation plate 2-1/2” above the bottom of the hull. The 2-1/2” seems to be what other people on this board have ended up using. 1 person on board (195 lbs) and approx 18 gallons of gas. Water temp was 74 degrees and the wind was around 5-10 mph. These numbers are an average of two runs. One upwind and one downwind. Speeds are from the GPS and fuel consumption (gallons per hour) was from the Lowrance EP-60R fuel flow sensor. These are the “best setting” numbers. You can see all the comparisons on the “Whaler Performance” forum. Engine trim was neutral. (cavitation plate was parallel to hull bottom) 1500 rpm 6.6 mph 1.26 gph By trimming the motor up my top speed achieved was 41.8 mph at 8.22 gph |
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