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Author Topic:   Here It Is Y'all The SternSaver!
Basshole posted 09-22-2011 07:38 PM ET (US)   Profile for Basshole   Send Email to Basshole  
Here are some photos of the first prototypes I invented for those who didn't participate in the free give away I offered recently. Patent is filed so now I can share! I already have distribution channels lined up and am designing a logo and packaging as we speak. This is getting really exciting!!!

Basshole posted 09-22-2011 07:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
BTW, I need help on deciding the final logo design. I am down to three comps. Once I pick the final one my designer will introduce color. I think I like #3 the most, but #2 is pretty darn good too. Please help! I cannot make up my mind.

Tohsgib posted 09-22-2011 08:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tohsgib  Send Email to Tohsgib     
WOW!! Now explain what the hell it is besides a piece of starboard with liquid nails on it?
Basshole posted 09-22-2011 08:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
I thought you'd never ask :) It's not just any ol piece of starboard. If you look closely at the pictures you will see the six holes are tapped with threads. When you fill the holes to the brim with my super special glue (not Liquid Nails or even PL Premium) and stick it on your boat the glue cures and forms solid screws that interlock with the threads in the holes. My glue is the strongest, best stuff on the planet for this application (3000 PSI pull resistance). It's made for marine use and even cures under water.

If you were local I'd bet you $100 you cannot pull it off my demo board. I have a 300 lb Samoan friend who can bench press 500lbs who can't even budge it with all his might. I has to be cut off to remove it.

I will be offering it in five different colors to best match the various gel coats out there. The good thing is it is not injection molded, black, crap, cheap plastic and it's 100% made in the USA!!! They are fabricated from genuine Starboard which is chemical, sun and salt resistant, as well as FDA approved if you want to use one as a cutting board! It will be half the price of my competitor's and way better quality. The kit comes complete with everything you need to install it. I can install one in less than ten minutes. It's so easy, even the Geico caveman can install one! Hope that adds clarity.

David Pendleton posted 09-22-2011 09:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Pendleton  Send Email to David Pendleton     
I would buy this. Next time I install a transducer, I probably will.

I like Font #1, #3 is awful.

voltzgj posted 09-22-2011 09:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for voltzgj  Send Email to voltzgj     
I will be buying this ASAP
alfred posted 09-23-2011 03:53 AM ET (US)     Profile for alfred  Send Email to alfred     
#1 for me, #2 next.
RevengeFamily posted 09-23-2011 06:39 AM ET (US)     Profile for RevengeFamily  Send Email to RevengeFamily     
My vote is for Font #1...

However, I'll add my 2 cents regarding your design...

Have your designer add a prop down below the hull... Will help clarify that we're looking at a boat transom... Or possibly increase the width of the transom, spread the words "Stern Saver" a bit and add a outboard engine with a prop. I understand this will be marketed to boat owners, but I think you need to spruce it up a bit.

"Don't drill holes below the water line!!! Use STERN SAVER"

Best of luck,


george170 posted 09-23-2011 09:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for george170  Send Email to george170     
Can it be removed if you want to take it off?
contender posted 09-23-2011 09:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for contender  Send Email to contender     
Bass: two things, any font you use, evenly you will get tired of it, so it really does not matter (I like #3) second: The world's largest boat show is in Miami Beach in Feb. Have you given any thought to renting a booth to get your product out there? You need more advertising to get your product some awareness. Heads Up on the show: People come from all over the world to attend this show, also the boating industry is probably the largest in the US is in South Fla. Also have you tried to glue two pieces of starboard together with your product? This would sell itself with all the uses of starboard....Good luck to you
litnin posted 09-23-2011 09:52 AM ET (US)     Profile for litnin  Send Email to litnin     
Font # 2 is my choice. I want to know about removal also. Will a safe-release agent remove the adhesive?
Basshole posted 09-23-2011 11:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Thanks for your help with the font guys. It seems that no one design is the "majority favorite" here. I may wait a little longer before I give my final decision to my designer and see if a majority favorite evolves.

As for removal of the SternSaver, I have done a lot of research and thinking about the adhesion of this product. My conclusion is: the more permanent the better. The last thing I need are these things falling off of people's boats and transducers go a floppin' and possibly end up tangled in a prop, especially way offshore. I could have saved a good bit on my production cost by using inferior adhesives but cannot justify it. My good buddy Capt Khahn of North Cal Sportfishing, who is on the water five days a week agrees that the bond MUST be permanent. I have mentioned before you have to think of it as an extension of your boat.

Also, there is no reason to remove it. It can be drilled and re-drilled numerous times unlike a bare transom. If you look at my pics you will see that I changed my mind about transducer placement once I bought Structure Scan and just mounted another transducer on that SternSaver. You can either re-use the holes but with a thicker screws or just move the transducer over a bit and re-drill. Also, often times transducer mounts change with different manufacturers and even within the same manufacturer over time. Re-mounting is unlikely to be an issue.

For those who must, yes it can be removed, but not that easily. I will be making a removal kit which will basically be a sheet of either very thin metal or plastic which will have a cut out in the middle of it the size and shape of the SternSaver. This sheet will serve as a guard to protect the surrounding gel coat from being scratched while you cut the six attachment points of the SternSaver with a thin blade, flush cut or Japanese style pull-saw available at any hardware store. There will likely be some residual adhesive left over which can be sanded, compounded and polished or you can simply mount a fresh, new SternSaver on that same location.

I am planning on removing all three of the original prototypes I installed on my boat two years ago and replacing them with my newer, professionally fabricated versions that match my gel coat much better. As you can see, the bright white I used to make the originals is not a good match nor are they as pretty without the radius corners and bevel I since have integrated into the design. Aside from cosmetics, they have worked like a charm and I personally would never mount a transducer on my boat again without one.

Stevebaz posted 09-23-2011 12:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Stevebaz  Send Email to Stevebaz     
I would use font 2 and use revenge family's prop Idea maybe even separate Stern and Saver and add a whole outboard outline.

For removal if you put small dimples on the other side over the screw thread locations then someone could drill out the adhesive and threads stopping short of the gel coat and popping the unit off. That would destroy the unit but that’s good for sales.

At the boat show on your display mount a 2 foot bar to the stern saver on display and mount a weight to hang an excessive load.

If you mount to a platform like a shaker table and do cycles test under simulated load you can see the estimated life cycle of your adhesive. More than Likely the screws mounting the transducer to the stern saver will fail first. Think much slower version of a one gallon paint can shaker.

I like your Idea I thought you were nuts bonding starboard. But your not you're bonding to gel coat and mechanically fastening to the starboard. Smart cookie kudos’s to you.
Best of luck in your adventure.

I will add a couple of these to my list.

chuck21401 posted 09-23-2011 01:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for chuck21401  Send Email to chuck21401     
OK, so the benefit with this product is that you don't need to drill holes into the hull, rather than keeping it "all original?" I would (or the next owner might) worry about damaging the finish when trying to remove this product.
jimp posted 09-23-2011 01:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimp  Send Email to jimp     

Is it a "SternSaver" or "TransomSaver"?


Basshole posted 09-23-2011 02:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Chuck did you not read my last post? If you did, then I think the point I was trying to make went right over your head. Also, doesn't drilling holes in your transom and mounting a transducer to it deviate from being "original" anyways? Please think before you post. Thanks.

Jim there is a product already called transom saver which supports your motor while trailering. SternSaver rolls off the tongue better anyways.

jimp posted 09-23-2011 02:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimp  Send Email to jimp     
Yup, you're right. I had a TransomSaver for my Montauk and I was thinking that SternSaver had the "roll" to it. Just thought I'd mention it.

Good luck with it.


chuck21401 posted 09-23-2011 03:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for chuck21401  Send Email to chuck21401     
Thanks, Basshole, I did give some thought to my post.

I was thinking that I might be interested in this product so that I could mount a transducer, but later, when I go to sell the boat, I might want to remove this device and return the stern to stock. If I had drilled holes in the boat, that would not be possible.

I understand from your thoughtful post that a removal kit will be offered. My concern remains about damaging the gelcoat finish when attempting to remove this product in the future. Specifically I would be worried about the residual adhesive that you recommend be "sanded, compounded and polished" after removal.

I just have a hard time picturing myself sanding the gelcoat of my Whaler to remove adhesive. Thanks.

protek9543 posted 09-23-2011 06:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for protek9543    
Nice product. I don't typically sell a boat and take off all the electronics. By the way Bigshot you still haven't learned to be diplomatic have ya. You must have to deal with people on a regular basis.
Basshole posted 09-23-2011 07:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Chuck- Sorry if I was a little harsh sounding earlier. I responded to your post while I was in the hospital earlier undergoing treatment for pneumonia that is giving me a bit of a run for my money right now. I literally was hooked up to an IV and a nebulizer while writing it and not happy for obvious reasons. I am certainly not offended by your comment, and most definitely your concerns are my concerns as well. I do not want people to be afraid or reluctant to buy this product for any reason, and take everyone's concern seriously. Your concern about the gel coat being damaged is a legitimate one, no doubt. Tell me my E-tec 225 only puts out 211hp and we got a problem, j/k I still love it anyways :)

Chuck, too make it up to you, PM me with your address and I will send you one for free and if you have any doubts, toss it or give it away.

The adhesive I am providing with the SternSaver kit (without giving up too much proprietary info) can be considered somewhat similar to gel coat without the pigment. So, it can be sanded down just like a gel coat patch would be sanded and polished out. Even if it did cause a little superficial damage to the finish you could easily patch it to get it back to new again by just getting a Preval sprayer and loading it up with some matching gel coat from Spectrum and shoot, sand and polish or a paste patch kit if it is gouged a bit.

I realize the product may not be perfect as well, guys. I would love it if there were only pros and zero cons. Unfortunately, like a lot of things, the pros simply out weigh the cons (at least I feel so) and it's worth it for me to use it. I think a lot of you probably feel the same way too. Here's an analogy and you can tell me if it's good or not. Say you were walking down the street one night and got mugged, what would you rather walk away with, a few bad scratches or a couple deep puncture wounds. I just do not like the idea of holes in my transom.

I just purchased an 86' garage kept Montauk a couple weeks ago and while I was shopping around there was a another boat (a 90') I was interested in and noticed it had some old, poorly patched holes in the transom from a previously mounted transducer. That, along with a couple other things I couldn't get over, dissuaded me from buying that boat even though I drove 3 hours each way to pick it up. Luckily, I found another one on the way home (ironically 30 minutes from home) that gave me goose bumps when I saw it and bought it for $6500.00 with only 400 hrs on the motor! If I were to purchase another boat someday and saw it had a SternSaver on it, I would be more likely to move forward with that purchase based on the fact that I would want the previous owner to be just concerned about a waterlogged hull and transom rot as I am. I would see it as some additional peace of mind or one less thing to worry about when buying a boat with an unfamiliar history from a total stranger. If this theory is true you could even consider it to increase the value of your boat when you go to sell someday. I'd much rather buy a used boat knowing I may have to do a hours worth of patch work to it rather than finding out later something is really wrong internally.

BTW-Protek thanks for the name Bigshot, it make me feel important, finally. Jimh, can I change my handle to Bigshot please. Maybe I should just remove the B from my current handle.

Basshole posted 09-23-2011 08:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Here they are the final round of logo comps, with color! I took your advice (and my designers' who detested the previous option #3) and expanded on option #2. At first I really liked #3 but after some good points were brought to my attention we decided #3 was too Star Warsy/Star Trekky, the "r's" were lower case while the rest was not, and being italicized made for an awkward space on one side and not the other in integrating with the stern surround. My prop (and outboard outline) suggestion was shot down and was not allowed. Sorry Revenge and Steve I thought it was a good idea as well.

I love it now...what colors do you like? I am feeling bit patriotic, hint hint!

protek9543 posted 09-23-2011 08:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for protek9543    
Basshole you must not have been around long. Bigshot is Tohsgib backwards. It was not meant for you.
Basshole posted 09-23-2011 08:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Contender-thanks for the boat show info! That's the kinda stuff I need to focus on next. And yes, I am currently working on gluing two pieces of Starboard together using a similar method and I think it's going to really work! It would be cool to join two pieces together with no fasteners showing, wouldn't it? That maybe potentially bigger than the SternSaver since almost all boats could use that technology. I am filing several patents with my attorney that are all derived from this design, method and utility. Man, it's costing me a lot of $$$, but I think it's worth protecting.

Norm-That is a great tag line! I thought of a funny one the other day, "saves your boats behind!" I definitely will have a "do not drill" sign on my packaging and signage for sure. Basically, a red circle with a drill bit and/or drill with a red slash going through it diagonally.

Steve- I like the suggestion about the bar. I began thinking of similar things like that too. Like even making a small rock climbing wall using these things for people to step on or mounting some to a upside down horizontal surface, putting some screw-eyes and hanging some 100lb barbell plates to it. How bout a video of someone taking a baseball bat to a SternSaver mounted to a small piece of fiberglass coated with gel coat and just going nuts on it!

BTW, does anyone know where I can get some pieces of fiberglass coated with gel coat for this purpose. I was planning on making some myself but would rather save myself the hassle and just buy it somewhere. I was thinking a boat salvage yard but don't know of any. I called Whaler the other day and I think they thought I was weird when I asked to buy their trimmings from when they trim off the excess material after the molding process.

Basshole posted 09-23-2011 09:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Protek- sorry did not know that, lol! That's funny, I thought you were taking a shot at me. Boy, do I feel like a jack ass now! When I saw your post I thought "geeze did I really deserve that?" Thanks for clearing that up! I did feel kinda bad about my response to Chuck though and wanted to clear the air.

Tohsgib- You can say what ever you want about the SternSaver, but don't talk smack about my E-tec, alright! I know it puts out at least 224.765483625 HP on a calm, glassy day which is about 1.257397847 hp than LHG's Merc! Sorry, I just had to throw that in. Those threads are my all time favorites! I couldn't help it!

lizard posted 09-23-2011 09:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for lizard  Send Email to lizard     
Basshole- I will preface this with NO insult is intended. A woman's eye is different. We are pretty particular about things like lines, color, etc.

Two recommendations as you product moves forward- offer White and the Starboard Off-White (can't remember what they call the color closer to Desert Tan). More importantly, for Whalers, customize them to the lines of the hull. Instead of a square block, have them follow the lines of the hull, that is, angled. That square block really bothers my eye.

sraab928 posted 09-23-2011 09:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for sraab928  Send Email to sraab928     
Bass - Just got my sternsaver - really neat little product - I will be pulling my transducer - filling the holes and mounting your product - I will be sure to share photos when I pull the boat to do it.

On a side note - I own a physical testing equipment manufacturing company. We sell tensile testers that pull up to 2000 pounds. If you would like to send some bonded samples I would be glad to run some testing on them for you (for free of course) - If this would interest you shoot me an email and we can talk offline about it.

dburton posted 09-23-2011 10:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for dburton  Send Email to dburton     
What the heck, like it, buy it. Don't like it don't buy it. There is a need here, whether or not his product fills the need, the market will decide. This guy is trying, he's not Bill Gates but this is America and he has risked a fair amount of money to fill a need. Does his solution to a need really fill the need? Time will tell.


Newtauk1 posted 09-23-2011 10:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1    
Just received the demo pack. Nice product. I will be pulling my boat soon for the season. I will use the Stern Saver to mount pump for a live well. I will be sure to document the procedure. I do have a piece of Starboard on my port stern used to mount a transducer. As Lizard mentioned, I fabricated the block to match the contour of the hull. With so mant hull designs it would be impossible to pre cut the material. Perhaps a larger version of the Stern save could be an option for boaters that want to trim the piece to match the hull.

Did you consider 1" material versus 3/4" for deeper screw purchase?

Basshole posted 09-23-2011 11:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Lizard- I read you loud and clear but as Newtauk stated, with so many hull designs I would spend a fortune on keeping a huge inventory of different matching contours. Believe me it bothers me a bit as well that they are square rather than follow the lines of the transom bottom. The good thing is that it still functions just fine regardless. Since I will be offering it in five different colors and if I had to produce say five different angles and offer it in port and starboard options I would have to have 250 different combinations in stock. If this product really takes off (like Walmart level) then I would consider it but I really need to generate a lot of $$$ to make that feasible. Until then, a rectangle it is. I am considering a couple different sizes though for things like livewell pumps and small transducers. For now it's got to be one size fits all or I will go broke before it even gets off the ground.

Sraab- Absolutely, I will take you up on that offer! That would be great. I am glad you like the product and thanks for the post.

Newtauk-I am happy you are pleased with it. I did consider using 1" but boy Starboard is expensive. I am paying almost $300 for a 4'x8' sheet of the 3/4". Maybe when I start to buy some real quantities then I will have a little more negotiating power. 5/8" screws have been holding my very large and cantilevered Structure Scan transducer just fine for two years so far. Maybe Sraab can test the pull test some screws for me to get a quantitative measure of that too.

The fabrication and adhesive is pricey too even in very large quantities. I want to keep the cost down so many people will actually buy it. Also, if I try for a big retailer like Walmart I am sure they will be ruthless in trying to bargain me down. They will probably offer a buck or two over what my cost is. My biggest obstacle in bottling the adhesive b/c it is so thick. I did all your samples with a tongue depressor at my kitchen table. Took about 2 hours to do 40 bottles! Not very efficient at all. There are bottling plants I can contract out to, but I need to do a large batch before they will consider me. Until then I just purchased a Handy Filler, manual piston filler which I hope will be a more effective solution than doing it by hand for a while.

Russ 13 posted 09-25-2011 11:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for Russ 13  Send Email to Russ 13     
Great Idea, Good Luck on it taking off.
Rick U posted 09-25-2011 11:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for Rick U  Send Email to Rick U     
These things would be great for mounting electronics inside the center console.
I used a wood block and 5200 as a mount for my battery switch. Did the same with the battery charger and stereo amplifier. These would allow you to mount electronics wherever you want and look clean and professional. Shoot add bilge pumps and fuel filters to the list too.

How does the glue work? Is it tacky and thick enough to hold on when pressed into place?

PeteB88 posted 09-25-2011 05:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for PeteB88  Send Email to PeteB88     
Hey Basshole, nice product concept and it looks like it works. I have not had time to read the entire thread but agree (if it works as reported) that your product has other uses (like mounting battery switch). Moreover, I'd take full advantage of the offer to put samples on a pull tester and continue more life testing especially if someone offers up help or an appropriate life test protocol.

I'd buy it.

LOGO - I like it but if it is only the graphic element which is font treatment of STERN SAVER my reaction is it doesn't tell or complete a whole story or message - it also, w/o added copy or series of photos, doesn't tell me it can be used for other applications such as the battery mount. Subhead that explains what it is or something else can tie the whole thing in for scanners, point of purchase and to build your brand.

Good luck, make millions.....


WT posted 09-25-2011 05:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for WT  Send Email to WT     
I would call it, "No More Holes".


David Pendleton posted 09-25-2011 05:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Pendleton  Send Email to David Pendleton     
I like the colors of logo #2.

If they're available next year (when I upgrade), I will definitely put one on my transom.

Basshole posted 09-25-2011 06:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
RickU- you're absolutely right! It can be used to mount anything that you don't want to screw into on your boat. Got any suggestions on different sizes? I'd like to hear them. The glue is very thick, but because Starboard is so heavy and dense you need to use a piece or two of masking tape to hold it in place while it sets up.

Pete- I completely agree with you that the name now seems to not encompass all the potential applications for this product. I am going to have to come out with another yet strikingly similar product line that comes in different sizes and shapes for that purpose and give it a whole different name. That's fine because I didn't want to stop with just the SternSaver. That's just the beginning. The more people I show this too the more ideas I am getting! It's kind of snow balling and I cannot believe it's happening to be's so exciting!

I will definitely incorporate a tag line which will be more informative. I do want to keep the logo clean and not overly busy for now. It becomes difficult to work with (banners, signage, decals, T shirts etc) when the logo is very complex. Look at logos like Facebook (my wife is head of their global advertising events), Google, Nike etc. and all their logos are kind of plain and simple and do not tell a whole lot. The tag line will be key though for sure!

David-I like #2 and #7 the most so far too! They pop out and seem to have the most life to them. I hope to be ready to sell these in about two months, maybe less. My website which will be will be set up to purchase them directly. Also, if I am lucky, maybe I can get a big retailer to carry them too in the near future.

PeteB88 posted 09-25-2011 07:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for PeteB88  Send Email to PeteB88     
RIght on, you seem to be on your way - - we do some strategic and branding stuff as well so go for it and don't forget the lifetime discount to all Whaler pals.

Best of luck

Basshole posted 09-25-2011 08:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Pete-thanks for that! You guys on CW will never have to pay full retail for one of these! Heck, I already gave out twenty for free! I owe you all big time! I hope you all understand how much the feedback is appreciated. Just don't tell everyone to come on here just so they can get a discount.
Rick U posted 09-25-2011 10:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rick U  Send Email to Rick U     
Electronics come in lots of sizes. I could see where electronic mounts could easily outsell transducer mounts if they were priced reasonably. Do mounts in the bilge and in center consoles have to be made of Starboard? It's expensive and well worth the price for something thats exposed to sun. I'm wondering if there's a similar product that's lighter and less expensive for area's that are not exposed the way transoms are? What makes your product exciting is you broke the code on how to glue polypropylene.
Basshole posted 09-25-2011 10:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Rick- Can you elaborate a bit? Do you mean like flush mounting into a dash or like a RAM type mount? Seems Like both those options have been pretty well explored already. I am considering making a product (also out of Starboard) that you can glue to the top on a center console or dash and mount a stock sonar bracket to that if that's what you mean.
matlund posted 09-25-2011 11:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for matlund  Send Email to matlund     
Hey Basshole,
Is this available at this point? I just tore my transducer off my stern yestrday while loading my Nauset on the trailer. I just filled the old holes and was getting ready to drill two new holes. I love the idea!


Rick U posted 09-25-2011 11:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rick U  Send Email to Rick U     
Anything used on the dash should be Starboard. I'm talking about a pad for a bilge pump or a battery switch (mounted inside the console). Could you use a less expensive, lighter polyethylene? In the bilge or in the console Starboard might be overkill.
Basshole posted 09-26-2011 01:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Rick-I will look into that. I think King Plastics makes a lighter weight version of Starboard. I will do some research on this. The biggest obstacle is not so much the material cost but the fabrication cost. My fabrication costs are many times the material cost. The only way around that may be to get rid of the radius corners and bevel since it won't be as visible, and of course produce a ton of them. I like your idea though. When I installed my stereo in my Conquest, I put it in one of those cheap waterproof stereo boxes and mounted it to a piece of wood that was already in place when I bought the boat which is under the starboard side stern seat next to my battery switch. It works, but I'd prefer that to not be wood and be a piece of plastic instead.
Dauntless_14_TX posted 09-26-2011 08:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for Dauntless_14_TX  Send Email to Dauntless_14_TX     
I like the idea, and I think Rick is on to something with a "sideline" production of a product for interior mounting of assorted things such as bilge pumps, livewell pumps, washdown pumps, battery switches, and if its as strong as you say, could even mount heavy on-board battery chargers to the inside of the console vertically or other protected place without having to actually drill holes in the boat. With the 3/4" thickness, maybe thicker for these applications?, it would give better purchase for screws than into the thinner walls of most consoles which are less than 3/4" thick. I've been contemplating trying to fabricate a product similar to yours for mounting a battery charger vertically inside my console, as I don't like the idea of thru-bolting and having to leave the bolt heads visible from the outside. I'd happily buy one if you have them available, as I'm sure a bunch of my boating buddies would as well.
conch posted 09-26-2011 10:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for conch  Send Email to conch     
Is there a shelf life for your glue? Will you sell the glue as a standalone item?


Basshole posted 09-26-2011 11:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Chuck-I wasn't planning on it. How much do you need? If it's just a little bit (few oz) PM me and I'll just send you some for free, you pay the shipping.
Rick U posted 09-26-2011 07:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rick U  Send Email to Rick U     
Here is what I did when I mounted my wood planks inside my console. I used 2 strips of 3M double sided tape. I then applied fast dry 5200 onto the plank above the tape. The idea was the double sided tape would hold the plank in place and hold the glue from running down long enough for the glue to set up. It worked well enough to get the job done. A big gasket of 3M tape around the edge would make installation super easy. No duct tape and no glue running down the gel coat.
Basshole posted 09-26-2011 08:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Rick-I actually attempted that same thing with the Stern Saver but the darn double sided tape wouldn't stick to the Starboard very well. I actually tried a few things like those clear stickies that 3M makes as well. Double sided tape also made it impossible to get the Stern Saver to be snugged up right against the boat. That spongey material it's made of furred it out just a little too far. I like the idea in using masking tape more because I am afraid of customers relying on the stickies or double sided tape to hold the block in place. If they leave and come back and the Stern Saver sagged because the double sided tape or stickies failed to hold the block and the glue sets up, I've got very unhappy customers on my hands. I think it's safer to have the customer tape it on (excessively) over the top of it to prevent that.

I am going to implement a small plastic spike or two that looks like a large thumb tack with a large flat head that is glued on to the transom first and allowed to set up. Then you can just sort of pop the block onto it via a small pre-drilled hole (or holes) so the spike fits snuggly into the small hole in the back of the Stern Saver, which will hold it in place while the adhesive sets up, to prevent sagging all together. Geeze! So many things to think about!

Dauntless_14_TX posted 09-27-2011 08:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for Dauntless_14_TX  Send Email to Dauntless_14_TX     
Do you plan on marketing just the adhesive portion of your invention? I ask, as I'm mounting a trolling motor to the bow of my dauntless using the minnkota quick release bracket, and using your adhesive and 4 tapped screws I would never have to worry about it coming loose most likely. I could router a lipped hole in the puck and fill it full of your glue to give it a chemical and mechanical bond to the bracket and then attach it to the boat. I probably could then lift the whole boat from the bracket. Anyway I could buy a bit from you?
Binkster posted 09-27-2011 06:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Binkster  Send Email to Binkster     
From a blog on structural adhesives.

In engineering terms, it is known as "Structural adhesives," but that's just a high tech name for glue.

More and more automakers are planning to replace traditional spot welding with glue to make vehicles quieter and more fuel efficient. The reason: glueing cars together actually strengthens the joints because the entire seam is in contact with the metal verses gaps that are created in the spot welding process. Using glue actually makes the subframes stiffer and more solid, allowing manufacturers to downgage the steel, making cars lighter, which improves fuel economy.

Another example of the surprising new technology we can expect in new vehicles not in some distant future, but right around the corner!

If interested Google "structural adhesives" and see what you find

Binkster posted 09-27-2011 10:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for Binkster  Send Email to Binkster     
Have you tried this stuff? [PLEXUS]

Looks like it will glue any plastic material to your boat. Comes in tubes or buckets. Only thing, how does someone remove the plastic block later. This was never explained fully. Like Nick pointed out earlier, who wants to buy a boat with Starboard blocks glued all over it. I have heard of sawing a block off with a guitar string. Doesn't sound easy and undamaging(new word) to the hull.

http:/ / www. reinforcedplastics. com/ view/ 9705/ the-use-of-structural -methacrylate-adhesives-in-the-bonding-of-thermoplastics-and-composite-m aterials/

Basshole posted 09-28-2011 02:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for Basshole  Send Email to Basshole     
Dauntless-couple questions: what sized puck do you need to make your bracket and will this be adhered to smooth gel coat or non-skid. PM with your address and I'll send you a little glue to play with. I was entertaining the idea of making a trolling motor mounting plate, maybe we could work together on that. I also am going to make a trolling motor transducer mount as well. Apparently, bass fisherman have problems with their transducers getting kicked up on their bow trolling motors when the get into the brush and shallows.

Binkster-thanks, sounds interesting. I saved the link and will order some samples to play with. I am wondering how well it works below the water line and how long it will hold up over time. For now the Stern Saver has to be cut off as described earlier in this thread.

Does anyone know of a marine grade, heat removable glue? I am considering offering a less permanent solution as well as the original to please the few that are afraid of the removal process. The competing product uses a heat removable glue that looks suspiciously like Liquid Nails, which is removable with a hair dryer or heat gun, but is not recommended for use below the water line. I have to say I am a little reluctant to use something that is heat removable though. Boats sit in the sun and depending on the darkness of the gel coat and the color of the Stern Saver can get pretty hot. I am afraid of the bond failing and everything coming loose. Is the trade off worth it to have something easy to remove, but could risk a transducer come off way offshore and get tangled in a prop?

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