posted 04-13-2013 02:58 PM ET (US)        

[The backstory:] Recently my boat was stolen and stripped of OB, controls,electronics, etc. It was a 1991 Wahoo 1850 with Yamaha 150. I loved that boat, it wasn't pretty, but it screamed, was solid, was big fun and would go fast. I imagine that thieves may have thought it was a Whaler in the dark and thought they were making quite the haul --kind of like picking up the middle age tavern queen and waking up next to her in terror. One of the reasons I liked the boat is that during the summer season, I left buoyed in Quartermaster Harbor (Puget Sound) and I didn't worry about it. (The boat was stolen while on trailer at home).

posted 04-13-2013 03:27 PM ET (US)            

Outboard Bad: uses more fuel, stolen easy, not cheap to fix, parts sometimes can be hard to find depending on the outboard, do not last as long.

Inboard Good: cheap to run, automotive engine parts are easy to get, cheaper to fix, better gas milage.

Inboard Bad: Heavy, takes up room in the boat, now you have an outdrive also (more things to go bad), Rust (seems that inboards get more rust, need to protect your oil pan, and you need a starter on top of the bell housing) Not as fast, draws more water, harder to sell.

An old man once told me Outboards are like thoroughbreds, fast but do not last, Inboards are like stallions will run and run until they die, and diesel are like clydesdales will go and go never quit but at a walk.

Over the years I have own all types of boats mostly the outboards, Once I had an old Formula 233 with an inboard, the bellows broke and we started to sink, I had a v drive in another boat, had to watch out for hitting the bottom all the time and could not back up worth a darn. And the stuffing box seem to leak all the time.

With today's high end outboards I would have to stay with them even though the cost of purchasing one is very expensive. I would only go with inboards if they were diesels on a big bertram or something like that....

One thing to each their own and you have to be happy with what you get other wise you never will be every time you go out...Good luck

posted 04-13-2013 04:06 PM ET (US)            

I still say go with an outboard, but I just wanted to present some more possibilities that Contender/Rich didn't touch on in case you're a speed junkie.

posted 04-13-2013 09:50 PM ET (US)            

The number of sterndrives over 20 years old on the original unopened powerhead is going to be a very small number.

After owning many sterndrives I will never go back. Everything is a pain to access, leaks in the gaskets and boots can sink the boat, pain to winterize, less room in the boat, etc.

Also an outboard powered boat can get into MUCH shallower water without issue.

posted 04-13-2013 11:24 PM ET (US)            

Sterndrive power tends to be less expensive than outboard engine power. The sterndrive outdrive mechanism seems like it is a risky arrangement in larger boats, as the whole drive mechanism tends to be submerged. All that keeps your boat afloat is the rubber seal that surrounds the drive mechanism as it passes through the transom.

posted 04-14-2013 01:43 AM ET (US)            

quote:

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Not sure how you can suggest outboards do not last as long, there are thousands upon thousands of outboards over 20 years old on the transoms of boats across the country, and many more 30-40 years old and running strong.

---

I can _personally_ attest to the truth of that, being the proud owner of a gaggle of solid old two-strokes. In the hands of a conscientious owner, they seem to easily last long enough that they have to be banned from use, in order to be taken out of service.

posted 04-14-2013 07:19 PM ET (US)            

The lack of complexity was a blessing. The only problems I had was the need to reset the point gap while on the water twice.

The outdrive was not my favorite thing to work on but I managed to change impellers a few times. Engine oil changes were a pain but the outdrive was no more trouble than with an outboard.

It was difficult to keep the outdrive looking good. Galvanic corrosion was a constant issue and I repainted the outdrive just about annually. It was slipped in brackish water so that may have been part of the problem. In those day no one used aluminum sacrificial anodes.

I'm now on my second and third outboard engines. I can't imagine a circumstance that would drive me to purchase a boat with sterndrive power.

posted 04-14-2013 09:18 PM ET (US)            

My Whaler has a sterndrive. I'm entering my 15th season and I've experienced none of the negative aspects of a sterndrive claimed in this thread.

I get decent fuel economy.
Maintenance has been infrequent, cheap and easy.
I'm happy with performance.
The engine cover is a nice bench seat and does not detract from the cockpit.
I've never hit bottom <knocks on wood>.

I think the biggest drawback to a sterndrive (as Jim mentioned) is the bellows. My boat is only in the water when I'm using it, and I'm still running the original bellows. If you're in the water all the time, and they fail, you have a major problem. Stay on top of the maintenance (like anything else) and you'll be fine.

I think a sterndrive is a poor choice for saltwater (unless you are racked). They all have a history of corrosion problems. Outboards aren't immune to corrosion, you just have the option of getting them out of the water.

posted 04-14-2013 10:20 PM ET (US)            

If OB boats are more often the target of thieves, what would you speculate the theft ratio to be? Or what would you think the value ratio of OB theft to stern drive theft?

posted 04-15-2013 12:56 PM ET (US)            

The outboard is friendlier hands down.

The sterndrive runs great, but I consider it a pain in the a$$ to work on when it does need something.

I run both rigs in saltwater but are kept trailered, the sterndrive has FWC, which takes alot of potential problems away, but it is more maintenance intensive.

You do have to stay on top of things like the bellows and shift cable (which one end is exposed to saltwater)

Mooring any sterndrive boat in saltwater is a Fool's errand, the drive begins to self destruct on day one because you can't get it out of the water like an OB. Mercathode and all the other OEM galvanic sideshows still don't stop the corrosion and casting damage.

posted 04-15-2013 05:46 PM ET (US)            

And a Turbomeca Marbore VI jet engine will run at 22,600 RPM forever, and the Cat 3208's in my Trawler run at 1300 RPM. The jet will not even self-sustain at 1300 and I'd like to see a Diesel running at 22,600!

RPM means zero, so what's your point?

Any engine run at 75-80% of it's rated power will last a LONG time. My bet is that a Chevy 350 (IE: just about any outdrive) will run longer at 75% than any 2 stroke ever made. It's the gearing that turns the prop... not engine RPM. Torque input is the key, and you do not need to spin a V-8 nearly as fast to get the torque. A new in the crate 350 V-8 is worth about $3000... old ones make great mooring anchors. What's a 300 HP oputboard worth?

Dave Sutton

posted 04-15-2013 07:43 PM ET (US)            

quote:

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A new in the crate 350 V-8 is worth about $3000...

---

Unfortunately, the stuff on the other side of the transom can cost $5,000+.

posted 04-16-2013 08:31 AM ET (US)            

I have to admit that a Chevy 350 sounds sweet when its tached up in a boat, but as I said, it does take more effort to keep it that way.

With a 2bbl carb, mine sips fuel and roars at the same time, My 200 OceanPro is a slob in comparison, pushing the same hull. (but I still love that motor too)

Lets not forget the ritual of exhaust manifolds and risers, which requires some sort of owner interaction (at least)every five years if you run in saltwater.

I can attest that the Volvo SX setup is pretty good as sterndrives go. The physical architecture of all sterndrives coupled with how they are mounted in the boat (above or below decks) also contributes to the maintenance factor, regardless of who builds it.

posted 04-16-2013 01:27 PM ET (US)            

RPM is RPM, the gearing at the prop doesn't matter. And 75% of full throttle doesn't matter either. The point is you can run a 2 stroke outboard wide open all day every time you use it. Can you do that with a Chevy 350??

posted 04-16-2013 03:08 PM ET (US)            

with an engineering background, the stern drive always struck me as an engineering "kludge". Yeah it works but to me it looks like shoehorning a car engine into an awkward space, subjecting it to moisture/water, losing maintenance accessibility and replacing the drive train with this strange sort of complex outdrive arrangement which is always at least partially immersed. And costing a lot of weight in the process.

posted 04-16-2013 03:20 PM ET (US)            

quote:

---

...with an engineering background, the stern drive always struck me as an engineering "kludge". Yeah it works but to me it looks like shoehorning a car engine into an awkward space, subjecting it to moisture/water, losing maintenance accessibility and replacing the drive train with this strange sort of complex outdrive arrangement which is always at least partially immersed. And costing a lot of weight in the process.

---

Have you looked under the hood of your vehicle lately?

posted 04-16-2013 05:32 PM ET (US)            

Absolutely.

Marinized gasoline V-8's are only operated at about 2200 RPM "wide open", and as an example we cruise Jitka's 28 foot Marinette with a Chrysler V-8 at 1800 RPM. This is why these engines are set up with cams that produce their power at a lower RPM than you run them at in an automobile. You need to SCREAM a 2 stroke to get torque. You can loaf a V-8. By changing gear ratios in lower unit, outdrive, or transmission you set the propeller RPM. The input RPM is irrelevent if you have enough torque to turn the gears that then turn the prop.

Dave

posted 04-16-2013 06:51 PM ET (US)            

"Have you looked under the hood of your vehicle lately?"

You got that right. When I was 19 (circa 1968) I could tear down and rebuild a V-8. When I look under the hood now, I might as well be looking at the inside of the space shuttle. I mean, there's stuff in there I can't even begin to guess what it does.

But back to topic, I will admit that the sterndrive did have the advantage of being mechanically familiar to those who could work on auto engines.

posted 04-16-2013 06:59 PM ET (US)            

Just sayin'. For boats I'm an outboard guy all the way.

posted 04-16-2013 07:36 PM ET (US)            

That makes the Volvo Penta (Chevy 350), making 260 HP, seem like a featherweight.

Having 4 decades of experience owning outboards, and now with a Volvo Penta outdrive installed in the Frontier sitting hooked to the van, it'll be an interesting comparison.

Dave

posted 04-16-2013 10:03 PM ET (US)            

I wanted to ad that for those of you who haven't read IRON FIST, here are some excerpts from the book, regarding the invention of the stern drive by charlie Strang and Jim Wynne.
Interesting reading

http://www.rbbi.com/folders/pat/isd.htm

rich

posted 04-17-2013 07:56 AM ET (US)            

Dave

posted 04-17-2013 10:23 AM ET (US)            

Interestingly enough the largest diesels built, those powering ships, are all 2 stroke.

Dave

posted 04-17-2013 10:36 AM ET (US)            

Gee, Dave I bought my first outboard in 1952, from savings from a newspaper route. I paid $150, and the outboard was a 1949 Mercury 7 1/2hp KG4. That's 61 years ago, I was 14 years old, so I one upped you by 20 years. LOL

posted 04-17-2013 12:09 PM ET (US)            

Bark less, wag more. You will make more friends and you might learn something.

Tell me something about torque v/s horsepower and how the magic number 5252 fits in. And why the rpm of a 5 liter V-8 and a 2 liter engine, both producing the same power, will be different. Which is why we don't run marine V-8's at 4000 RPM.

You're never too old to learn ;-)

Dave

posted 04-17-2013 01:46 PM ET (US)            

When Japan was recovering from World War II, the government lacked resource they needed, and, as is often done, they just printed more money to pay for things. This resulted in inflation, and the value of the money was greatly eroded. One economist deduced the point at which the economy of post-war Japan began to stabilize based on the observation of a police chief. The police chief told the economist that thieves had begun to steal money from people, instead of tangible objects. This, the economist observed, was the first sign of a recovery in the economy of Japan.

As for outboards and sterndrives, the comparison of frequency as objects of theft is not very good. It is much simpler and easier to steal an outboard than a sterndrive. An outboard can be removed from the transom is a few minutes. Once removed it is quite fungible. A sterndrive, in comparison, is very difficult to remove, and might take hours to get loose from the boat. After you have stolen it, what value does it have? It is not nearly as fungible as an outboard engine. On the basis of being targets of thieves, I think you have to factor into the process the notion that an outboard is much simpler and easier to steal. This may account for their greater frequency of being stolen, more than as an indication of their inherent value.

posted 04-17-2013 03:48 PM ET (US)            

Don't ask for the address, LOL, I wouldn't think unbolting a couple of out-drives would be as hard as removing a heavy outboard.

posted 04-17-2013 04:04 PM ET (US)            

Do the insurance companies charge different rates for OB or sterndrive? I wonder if there are any surveyors or insurance men out there who may have an anecdotal or statistical sense of which loss is more common. Then of course on would have to consider the denominator.
jws

posted 04-17-2013 04:33 PM ET (US)            

quote:

---

Do the insurance companies charge different rates for OB or sterndrive? I wonder if there are any surveyors or insurance men out there who may have an anecdotal or statistical sense of which loss is more common.

---

Seem like you might just call up an insurance company or two to get this answer, with more certainty than you'll get from anecdotal offerings here. They might even have the stats you are looking for, as perhaps some portion of their comprehensive premium is based upon theft rates.

posted 04-18-2013 09:42 AM ET (US)            

Here in the port city of Tacoma, I have heard that Honda automobiles are the target of thieves more than any other car brand,and I am sure there are favored models as well.

posted 04-18-2013 12:44 PM ET (US)            

It was interesting to me how many folks approached me at docks with fond fawning memories of thier old Yamaha 2 stroke. I kind of became one of those guys.

I do think this is an interesting question. With all the debate of the performance attributes, mine is bigger and better. This may be a minor consideration to take into account, and perhaps there is a regional component as well.

In a secondary market it might be smart to consider an OB that perhaps is on par with the most popular choice, but less attractive to thieves. I am a little wary of preowned DFI 2 stroke motors, but this may be an attribute in favor of going with a used DFI 2 stroke.

posted 04-20-2013 01:04 AM ET (US)            

quote:

---

It was interesting to me how many folks approached me at docks with fond fawning memories of thier old Yamaha 2 stroke.

---

You can add me to that list, too. The 1985 Yamaha 2-stroke 40hp on my classic 13 is an _ah-mazhing_ motor. With it's reliable oil mixer, you just gas up and go, like it's a four-stroke. Starts easily, purrs like a kitten, doesn't smoke much after the initial "puff" from a cold start, super light for the power output. It's so much win, I hardly know where to begin. I'm only sick that that one day it may no longer be serviceable and there is no equivalent way to repower a classic 13 without having to give something up.

posted 04-20-2013 08:22 AM ET (US)            

Ditto for a Classic 2 stroke Yamaha 90 on a Montauk. It's likely one of the best engine/hull pairings that's been done.

Dave

posted 04-20-2013 09:38 AM ET (US)            

An unscrupulous repair shop calls a contact and orders an XYZ model Mercruiser lower because he needs one for a customer. He knows where to find one because he has another customer who owns one. Not a bad business model. In other cases individuals steal lower units because their lower has failed.

I know this was the business model of a shop operating in the Baltimore area. I suspect there are other shops with similar operations.

I don't believe lower units are often stolen for eventual resale.

Butch

posted 03-31-2014 10:36 AM ET (US)            

quote:

---

Sterndrive power seems like it requires more maintenance than an outboard.

---

Sterndrives are mostly four-stroke-power-cycle gasoline engines. Outboards are both two-stroke and four-stroke-power-cycle engines. In general, a four-stroke-power-cycle engine needs more routine maintenance than a two-stroke-power-cycle engine. The lubrication oil must be changed. This is often a nasty chore on a sterndrive due to the location of the oil sump drain.

After-season maintenance is likely higher on a sterndrive due to the nature of the cooling system. The cooling system typically must be flushed and filled with anti-freeze. Outboard engine cooling systems tend to drain themselves and require no anti-freeze.

posted 03-31-2014 05:34 PM ET (US)            

Only on cheap boats....

My 25 Whaler Frontier with Volvo Penta Duodrive sterndrive (essentially a Checy 350 and an outdrive) has fresh water cooling of the block with a heat exchanger and a raw water pump to that heat exchanger. I run glycol antifreeze in the engine and that antifreeze is cooled via the heat exchanger with raw water.

One benefit is that I have real cabin heat taken from the glycol cooling loop up to a radiator with a fan in the cabin. How is your outboard boat cabin heated? (I'll be running sidescan sonar surveys in the lakes starting in about two weeks). Heat is nice! I can keep the cabin at 80 when it's 25 out.

Just a data point, I had my engine pulled this winter and had it completely overhauled, blueprinted, painted, new accessories (starter, alternator, fuel pump, etc), new electronic ignition, etc., and the engine is now better than a new one. Total cost? $3500...

Dave

.

posted 03-31-2014 05:44 PM ET (US)            

You wrote:

"The lubrication oil must be changed. This is often a nasty chore on a sterndrive due to the location of the oil sump drain"

Like the Cat Diesels on my Trawler, my 25 Frontier has the oil sump drain connected via a hose and valve to a permanently installed small electric pump with a discharge hose. To change oil you drop the hose-end into a jerry can, flip the switch, and wait two minutes. Close the valve and you are ready to remove the filter and reservice with new oil. Easier than any car... and easier than any 4 stroke outboard.

You also wrote:

"After-season maintenance is likely higher on a sterndrive due to the nature of the cooling system. The cooling system typically must be flushed and filled with anti-freeze"

Again, not correct. Many outdrives are glycol cooled with heat exchangers. My Frontier was so equipped from the factory. Only antifreeze is ever in the block. Same as your truck.

And lastly said:

"Sterndrive engine use in saltwater was apparently invented as a way to boost sales of replacement exhaust manifolds and to provide a form of annuity to marine mechanics"

Actually, this system is the same as is used on marine inboards (like my Trawler). There are zincs in the exhaust risers that are changed annually, and if you change the zincs you'll never change a riser. Zincs take about a minute to change and cost about $5.00. In addition, in the case of my Frontier (and I assume many others) there is a garden hose fitting for flushing the exhaust risers of salt water after salt water use. No different than flushing an outboard after saltwater use.

Dave

posted 03-31-2014 08:02 PM ET (US)            

The guy that revived this thread is in VA Beach, he probably will not have a large need for cabin heat, if he even has a cabin.

I have owned four stern drive boats, so I know what I am talking about also. Maintenance on a stern drive compared to an outboard is considerably more demanding.

My outboard has no cam, no valves, no gimbal bearings, no manifolds, only one water pump, no shaft coupler to fail, no U-joints, no heat exhanger, no bellows that will sink my boat if it fails, no hole cut in the transom, can winterize itself, no oil to change in the engine, does not take up valuable space in the stern, weighs 500# less than a stern drive, can be freshwater flushed in 1/4 of the time, and will run in water that is a foot shallower than a stern drive powered boat.

posted 03-31-2014 08:03 PM ET (US)            

1. CV drive joints
2. Outdrive always in the water
3. Take up space in the boat
4. Knuckle buster to work on -try changing a starter or oil pan
5. Expensive to maintain
6. Great way to sink a boat - rubber bellows leaking

Otherwise I love them...

Best Choice: Large enough boat - straight shaft diesel inboard with a dry exhaust

Next best choice: Modern outboard

posted 03-31-2014 10:45 PM ET (US)            

--if a sterndrive has made special provisions for changing the oil by providing a sump drain, transfer pump, and associated hoses and fittings, then changing the oil can be relatively simple;

--if a sterndrive has made special provisions for a dual cooling system, one closed and one open to the sea, then you won't need to perform any special maintenance or flushing of the closed cooling system, other than the normal maintenance of a closed cooling system regarding antifreeze, water pumps, hoses, thermostats, cooling exchanger, and so on.

--the cost of the basic engine components in a sterndrive which uses an automotive engine block that has been manufactured for decades in a volume of many million units will be lower than boutique outboard engine parts.

I have apparently misunderstood all of the thousands of pages of advertising that I see in boating newspapers and local flyers in the Florida area that offer replacement exhaust manifolds for inboard engines as used on sterndrives. Apparently the entire industry of manufacturers and suppliers of these replacement exhaust manifolds has been created simply by advertising them relentlessly to boaters, and there is actually no real demand for these products.

Whenever I haul my boat over to the marine dealer in the fall for storage, I see a yard full of freshwater sterndrive boats, and they are all being winterized with anti-freeze being pulled into their engines. Maybe the yard is just running up the bill on the customers, but they sure do use a lot of anti-freeze over there.

posted 04-01-2014 08:42 PM ET (US)            

With that said, I see many boats on the Great Lakes that are not suited for salt water, and which were built with raw water cooling to the engine itself. Jitka's Marinette is one of these boats. For her I put a three way ball valve on the raw water intake, which has a three foot suction hose on one branch of the valve, the seacock on another, and which feeds the cooling water pump. With the valve selected to normal the pump brings in lake water for cooling. When flipped the other way the suction hose can do one of two things: Suck a pail of antifreeze into the block, which winterizes it in about ten seconds, or which can be used as a crash bilge-pump, with the suction hose sucking the bilge dry using the engine driven raw water pump as a high volume mechanical bilge pump. I took this design from my trawlerm, which has valves on the Diesels allowing their raw water pumps to be used as crash bilge pumps.

Dave

posted 04-02-2014 06:56 AM ET (US)            

I agree 4 strokes are a heavy option (still a lot of weight hanging off the stern) but wow !!!!...No more worries. Just turn the key and instantly the thing kicks over and your on your way. They seem as reliably as the modern car.

In my experience the noticeable benefit modern outboards achieve is outstanding fuel economy and the many hours running time between services.

The new ones are quite, non-polluting, economical and frankly a bloody joy.

I guess I base my decision on 50 years of experience on the water.
I still remember when I dreamed of owning a 25 or 28 foot Bertram with an inboard - outboard (as they were termed years ago), I now shrug at the thought of the huge amounts of cash I would have spent keeping a lovely boat like that afloat, then on top of that, the costs of filling their massive fuel tank.

posted 04-02-2014 09:02 PM ET (US)            

Surprisingly enough, a 350 V-8 badged as a Volvo Penta runs about as reliably as a 350 Chevy too... ;-)

Dave

posted 06-02-2014 03:12 AM ET (US)            

The excellent slow speed straight-tracking of counter rotating propellers as found on the BravoThree outdrives is appealing as well. In my opinion, Mercury should investigate a dual-prop lower unit for it's larger outboards.

posted 06-02-2014 03:54 AM ET (US)            

I installed a Turbo Swing bar to help in water sports. However after being on a friends boat with our family , a Sea Ray Sundeck stern drive, my wife turned to me and hit me with a wave of "look at this" and "isn't this nice" The comfortable seating, the enclosed port potty in front of the , the inner liner with comfortable snap out carpet, the big fast quiet engine, the nice rear view uncluttered by a outboard that is noisy and smokes a bit (Yamaha OX66). Look at the big rear deck, the front deck with a ladder to get off on the beach and it didn't end there. It went on and on.

I pointed out that Whaler is unsinkable, the unibond construction, the legacy of Dick Fisher and closed cell foam. It didn't matter. after more than 15 years of being a reliably alley for and with me for Whalers in Utah, she defected in 15 minutes after being in our friend boat.

Loyalty is hard to find these days.

So, as of a few weeks ago we have a Sea Ray open bow in the sundeck design with a Chev V8 and we got back from Lake Powell and I have to admit, the family and grandkids vastly enjoyed the stern drive Sea Ray open bow over any Whaler we have had.

More family friendly, more conformable, faster, better gas mileage, better for water sports and a Chev V8 with a Bravo 3 outdrive pulls harder, gets on plane quicker, runs quieter and is easier on gasoline without the oil.

If fishing is not the primary focus, family and water sports matter, inland lake fresh water is the focus, a nice stern drive boat has real merits.

The Whaler hasn't been kicked to the side, but its now just a fishing boat for me. That's not all bad.

Our family has been in our inland lake, fresh water environment, converted to stern drive, bigger power, water sports oriented boating.

Just between you all and I, I prefer the Whaler. But I think I am the only one now

Onlyawhaler
Sterling

posted 06-02-2014 07:50 AM ET (US)            

Second family data point (in addition to having the outdrive and engine for my 25 Whaler Frontier rebuilt earlier this year). Our dive boat, a 28 foot Marinette, was ready for an engine spruce up so we just did it over the last week.

Took a Chrysler 360 V-8 (260 HP), pulled the engine, split off the transmission, pulled the heads, dropped the water pan, and pulled the pistons. Pulled out the crank and cam and started with a pile of parts. Crank was fine as were the cylinders (after 2500 hours of use). Put in new bearings, 8 new pistons ($190 total for 8), new rings, a pair of rebuilt exchange heads, a new carb, used a new gasket kit, painted it, and bolted it back together. In less than a week we have an engine that is essentially new.

Total time out of service? 5 days including chasing parts and detail cleaning the engine compartment and bilge as well as painting the block.

Total cost? Under $2500. That includes the pistons, new heads, new carb, all parts, and the machine shop time to check the crank, cam, and block.

Noting that I personally operate the following: Diesel powered Trawler (twin 3208 Cats), 17' Montauk (90HP Classic Yamaha 2 stroke), Inflatable Tender #1 (5 HP Nissan 2 stroke), Inflatable Tender #2 (Mercury 4 HP 4 stroke), 25 foot Whaler Frontier (Volvo-Penta / Chevy 350 V-8 with Duo-Drive outdrive) and a 28 foot Marinette with a straight inboard Chrysler 360 V-8, I think I have a pretty good personal viewpoint for looking at the engines and their cost and complexity of operation.

My opinion: There are plenty of reasons to use V-8's to power things. I know what costs the least to overhaul and run, and old tech V-8's are cheap and reliable. Try getting an outboard worked on in June anyplace in the USA. Good luck. Having a 5 day out of service period for a full rebuild on a working commercial boat is the way to go.

Dave

.

posted 06-10-2014 11:10 PM ET (US)            

When we took up fishing and found Whalers is was back to OMC outboards. Quickly changing to Yamaha outboards. Still running a pair with over 6,000 hours on 1984 175 two-strokes.

A dream hull came along with inboard 454's and Bravo II drives. Purchased knowing those motors would be replaced some day. I can say without a doubt after doing all my own work on outboards, race boats and stern drives, I hated the Mercury Bravo combination more than anything. Twin engines in a I/O configuration leads to a handful of issues for the mechanic. Merc engineers turning truck motors into boat engines didn't really do a great job of thinking about maintaining them, accessing things like starters, oil coolers, fan belt driven fuel pumps, fuel pump-raw water combo's restricted exhaust leading to poor performance and fuel consumption, remote gear oil lines and plastic nipples that get brittle, leak and break, cooling hoses that are a pita to change or access. In a tight engine room the list is a long one.