Forum: WHALER
  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
  My First Whaler

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   My First Whaler
HardAssets posted 10-21-2013 02:54 PM ET (US)   Profile for HardAssets  
Well it cost me nearly $7,000 but I just bought my first Whaler...a 1971 one owner never titled 21ft ribbed Outrage. It's in pretty good shape considering it's been sitting outside for about the last 10 years. The hull doesn't even show any spider cracking and the engine isn't locked up.

It was used by a department of the University of Texas to go out a "check the water" so I imagine it was maintained up until they quit whatever program they were using it for.

My understanding is that there were only about 700 of these made and that there are very very of them to be found anywhere. I'm looking forward to working on it and especially fishing out of it and simply showing it off.

Here's a few links to some photo that the auction site had online:

http://www.slapsale.com/item_images/big_17506_20131004153143_71162.jpg

http://www.slapsale.com/item_images/big_17506_20131004153146_71162.jpg

http://www.slapsale.com/item_images/big_17506_20131004153148_71162.jpg

http://www.slapsale.com/item_images/big_17506_20131004153148_71162.jpg

http://www.slapsale.com/item_images/big_17506_20131004153151_71162.jpg

I will be asking for a lot of advice as I move forward with trying to restore this beauty. The woodworking I have no problem with but practically everything else will be a first for me.

sraab928 posted 10-21-2013 03:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for sraab928  Send Email to sraab928     
I love the old Ribside Outrages - they are beautiful boats to my eye. Its definitely a bucket list boat for me.

Did you inspect the boat in person? Looking at the picture on the auction with registration decal would indicate to me that the gelcoat is crazed. (lots of little cracks) - its the only part that showed close up of the gelcoat. I was surprised when you said no cracks in the gelcoat - if that is the case that is a rare find these days.

wannabe posted 10-21-2013 05:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for wannabe  Send Email to wannabe     
The amount of money it brought is a testament of how coveted these boats are. There was a thread over on" The Hull Truth" asking what makes Whalers so good. A bunch of Whaler haters over there.

Drew

HardAssets posted 10-21-2013 07:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for HardAssets    
There were only a couple of that inspected the boat and only about 8 bidding on it. Half fell out around $3,000...another 2 fell out at $4,000 but one guy hung around and ran it up yo $6,200 a finally gave up. This is my retirement boat and there's no way I was gonna be outbid on it.

Bill

sraab928 posted 10-21-2013 07:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for sraab928  Send Email to sraab928     
You picked a great model for your retirement boat - Congratulations!
L H G posted 10-21-2013 08:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for L H G    
I haven't enlarged the photos, but it looks like a decent buy. Most importantly with these Ribsides, and which adds value to this one, all the original items are there, with the exception of the bow platform (which is easy to duplicate), and the Mills windscreen. Most these that are for sale have major items missing, and all the original components are VERY hard to find and expensive to replicate.

But make no mistake, you've got your work cut out for you.
If indeed needed, this boat is probably worth a re-gelcoat job. Try to avoid Awlgrip painting at all costs on this classic.

Have fun.

http://www.slapsale.com/item_images/big_17506_20131004153143_71162.jpg

http://www.slapsale.com/item_images/big_17506_20131004153146_71162.jpg

http://www.slapsale.com/item_images/big_17506_20131004153148_71162.jpg

http://www.slapsale.com/item_images/big_17506_20131004153148_71162.jpg

http://www.slapsale.com/item_images/big_17506_20131004153151_71162.jpg

L H G posted 10-21-2013 08:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for L H G    
That appears to be an Outrage I model, which means it must have a fairly low hull number, probably less than #00300.
Mine is #00132.
frontier posted 10-21-2013 09:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for frontier  Send Email to frontier     
Great boats.
Lightweight, stable and tons of room.
We powered ours with a 130 Yamaha - plenty of speed and power.
No built-in fuel tank problems. Plenty of room for gas tanks in the stern.
I loved that boat.

I am wondering about the shoe on the top of your console.
Is it just part of the con-'sole' or there for when you 'put your foot in it' ?

sraab928 posted 10-22-2013 07:37 AM ET (US)     Profile for sraab928  Send Email to sraab928     
Here is a link to the auction - Has more pictures -

http://www.slapsale.com/item_desc.aspx?itemid=71162

According to one picture it shows details on a piece of paper stating serial number is 337 - Not sure if that is in reference to the stencil number or not.

PeteB88 posted 10-22-2013 11:24 AM ET (US)     Profile for PeteB88  Send Email to PeteB88     
Good job!! My buddy has had one for years - two 2 strokes before Ficht 200 (screamer) until he wore that out and now 150 ETEC - superb combination and looks terrific. Go ETEC
HardAssets posted 10-22-2013 11:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for HardAssets    
Just received this back from Mills Canvas. I asked about what was available for the 1971 Outrage 21 ft and they sent this list. I'm trying to plan what canvas to buy but all this did was confuse. I'm guessing the flytop can be used in combination with the forward shelter and it's all contained within the flytop/shelter boot. Would side curtains also be contained in the boot? Would these also be used in combination with the drop or top aft curtain to entirely close in the boat?


Dear Bill,
Below is the list of items available for this boat along with the pricing. Please note that these prices do not include shipping.
Our items are fabricated with the Sunbrella fabric which is a dyed acrylic and made to order in your choice of color.
If you place an order it would leave our facility within 7 business days.
Suzanne
21 OUTRAGE
(1971-1972 HULL NUMBER before 0722 boats with vertical ribs)
SUNTOP W/BOOT W/SS frame 52-3694-00 $1,216
SUNTOP W/ BOOT CANVAS ONLY 52-3694-80 $730
TEAK CONSOLE COVER 52-1647-00 $390
REVERSIBLE PILOT SEAT COVER 52-3653-00 $154
CONSOLE WINDSCREEN 52-0839-00 $299
MOORING COVER WITH BOW RAIL 50-1367-00 $1,431
FLYTOP SET
FWD. SHELTER NO BOOT (Boats Before Hull# 0722 Hull Has Vertical Ribs) 52-0881-01 $1,280
FWD. SHELTER NO BOOT CANVAS ONLY (fits only with SS frame) 52-0881-81 $897
FLYTOP W/ Stainless steel frame 52-2930-02 $903
FLYTOP CANVAS ONLY 52-2930-82 $543
FLYTOP/SHELTER BOOT 52-2930-03 $133
WINDSHIELD (Boats Before Hull# 0722 Hull Has Vertical Ribs) 52-0881-04 $344
FLYTOP BOOT 52-2930-05 $156
WEATHER CURTAIN SET
STARBOARD CURTAIN 52-0882-01 $193
PORT CURTAIN 52-0882-02 $193
TOP AFT CURTAIN without stern seat 52-0882-03 $279
TOP AFT CURTAIN with stern seat 52-0882-04 $587

Here's the link to the page on their site which is meant to explain everything...presumably for someone much smarter than me:

http://www.millscanvas.com/frame_index2.htm

I've already discovered that teak is gonna cost me about $27 a board foot so I'm now trying to factor in the canvas cost to make it a truly desirable boat. Any help would be appreciated.

Bill

jamesmylesmcp posted 10-22-2013 01:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for jamesmylesmcp  Send Email to jamesmylesmcp     
Nice first Whaler for sure !
Went the Mills route a couple of times so far and have been very pleased with their products. Here is a picture of hull #00250 with canvas in Sunbrella Toast. Good luck with your project.
http://www.classicbanana.com/screen_saver_Jim_CT.jpg
Lionheart posted 10-22-2013 07:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Lionheart  Send Email to Lionheart     
Congratulations Bill. Welcome to the club. You have a beautiful project. Here is a picture of the Mills windshield that I purchased last year.

https://picasaweb.google.com/116357140938494828881/ 1971BostonWhalerOutrageIIRibside#5757194560035497906

L H G posted 10-22-2013 07:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for L H G    
I have some experience with Mills canvas on a Ribside.

First of all, if you need a boat cover, have it ONLY done in Pacific Blue, as it is the most durable color of all choices. This is a direct recommendation from Bob Mills, and mine was done that way. Actually, my boat was used for original pattern for this cover in 2004. Back in 1971, Whaler never authorized a cover design for the Ribside, so no cover pattern ever existed.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgoltz/media/Outrage%2021/DSCN1397.jpg. html?sort=6&o=36#/user/lgoltz/media/Outrage%2021/DSCN1397.jpg. html?sort=6&o=36&_suid=1382479322436029613011658112886

(You can access the whole Outrage 21 album from that link)

Until 1978, when the first 2nd generation Outrage came out, the V-20, all Whaler duck canvas was tan in color. As James mentions, the replacement color for this in Sunbrella fabric is Toast. That is what you will want.

The Console WINDSCREEN which laces to the console rail is a necessity. Toast is the correct color, as is for all running canvas from Mills.

If you want the Flying Top set as shown by James, you cannot use the SUN TOP, which is a stand alone item, and nothing else attaches to it. So you don't want that piece.

Mills completely re-designed the Flying Top Set from the original design of 1971. They did this sometime in the early 2000's. The original, and currect designs are still cloes, but not compatible or interchangeable. With the FLying Top Set, you have three main items plus 2 boots - the Forward Shelter, the Flying Top and the zip-in Windhield. The Shelter and Top use separate boots.

The two Side Curtains, Windshield, and Aft Curtain come "loose". You can buy aftermarket camping style bags to put them in, as desired. The Flying Top Aft Curtain, which snaps and ties down to the transom, completely encloses the boat.

The Aft Curtain is a fairly large piece, and there is something wrong with the pricing indicated with No stern seat. It should be more like $500.

Nor do you have to buy all items ar one time. You can order them as you wish, since all patterns are computer stored, and any piece can be produced at any time, and it will still all fit together.

With the apparent work needed for the restoration, I would not order any Mills pieces until you are almost done, or when you actually need them. Also, I would not plan on using the running the canvas for mooring/docking/storage protection. It will get ruined quickly. If the boat is outdoors, moored, docked or stored on a trailer, the MOORING COVER is what you want.

L H G posted 10-22-2013 07:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for L H G    
Lionheart - Absolutely beautiful boat! You have done an excellent job bringing it back, cleanly detailed and well designed. It must have been a great find. Right kind of classic Merc power too!

What kind of speed and fuel economy do get from it?

Lionheart posted 10-22-2013 07:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Lionheart  Send Email to Lionheart     
Larry, I am ashamed to admit that I have never "opened" up this engine. I drive it like an old man. I have no idea what the gas mileage is, but I do know that at approx. 3200 RPM she registers 25 MPH on my GPS.

I thought for sure you were going to give me shit for painting the bottom.

L H G posted 10-22-2013 07:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for L H G    
I would have, but I assumed you bought the boat already painted. Removing paint is a job most don't understandably want to get into. So I gave you a pass!

Now if you bought the boat clean, unpainted, and you did it for the first time after all of these years, shame, shame, shame!

It still looks great. I'll bet it's a show stopper no matter where you go with it. The low profile bow rail is fairly rare, designed for fishing from the bow.

You should get 40-42 out of it. I would think a Stiletto 15" prop would do a good job for you. The prop hp on that engine is probably more like 125-130. I have always thought the 150HP powerhead rating was a stretch, done simply to stay ahead of OMC V-4's in those HP race days.

HardAssets posted 10-22-2013 08:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for HardAssets    
Man those are both beautiful boats and that's exactly what I want...along with the sides and back covers. I might as well go "all in" on the canvas at the right time. I agree fully with what LHG says about needing a separate mooring cover. It only makes sense...especially considering the amount of work that goes into making one of these look as good as yours do. I have bee3n involved in cabinetry and woodworking for over 30 years so my natural inclination is to use a lot of woodworking. I realize my boat isn't exactly the same as the one I've kind of picked as the one I'm hoping to model my "restoration" after.

My console is slightly different and doesn't have the high back on it and the seat on mine isn't all wood but I'm really impressed with the woodwork on this one and it's well withing my capability:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1972/Boston-Whaler-Outrage-Rib-Side-2612669/Harbor-Springs/MI/United-States#.UmcUyVPDuAY

Do you guys think I would be making a mistake putting that much wood into it?

Bill

L H G posted 10-23-2013 01:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for L H G    
Thank you, Bill. For maximum value and appeal, I recommend keeping a classic Whaler as close to original configuration and components as possible. That is my philosophy. Others may disagree.

So to answer your question - Yes I do.

I think the boat in Harbor Springs MI is grossly overdone, a monstrosity, and all that non-original, homemade design woodwork destroys it's classic appeal. The Ribside was never meant to look like an advertizement for custom woodworking. Even Hinckley's don't look overdone like that. In my opinion, I would not use that one as a model. For these reasons, I believe that particular boat is going to be extremely difficult to sell, at least to someone who knows their classic Whalers.

jamesmylesmcp posted 10-23-2013 08:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for jamesmylesmcp  Send Email to jamesmylesmcp     
Your boat looks almost complete. Here is a list of standard items found when purchased new.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc91/71outrage/IMG-1.jpg
PeteB88 posted 10-23-2013 09:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for PeteB88  Send Email to PeteB88     
Go full throttle, whole hog, whole 9, full enchilada, all the way, every which way but loose, max headroom and whatever else you can think of.... You'll love it when it's all there. Go for it!!
Jamesgt727 posted 10-28-2013 08:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jamesgt727  Send Email to Jamesgt727     
Hardassets,

ALL IN. CONGRATS, If its your retirement boat, do what you want, especially if you love the woodworking aspect and can do it yourself. The boat you model after is cool, and I dig it. I built my boat custom as well and created essentially an "heirloom" for my kids. I promise, a custom whaler like that is much more fun to own, almost comical as to the amount of enthusiasm they create. The key to the restoration is starting with a good base, and that is the hull. Get the hull (inside and out) up to your standards and go from there. Sounds like fun, I wish I had a project going on right now too, but if you need some suggestions on how to completely waste a ton of money in customization, ask me I have become exceptional at it. In my mind the words "restoration" and "painting" are not synonyms, no matter what reasoning people give you. If you are not doing the work yourself, go find a good gel/glass shop/man first.

JT

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:


Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.