posted 06-04-2014 07:26 PM ET (US)        

I am in the midst of a pretty awesome project involving my 1986 15 Sport and will post some pictures as it finishes up.

A little background. My dad bought the boat in 1988, when I was 14 years old. I have used the boat as I have grown up on the boat from a kid who wasn't able to drive a car and used it to get around Murrells Inlet, SC in the summers, to a high school water skiing mad man on Lake Murray, to a college kid who would scrape together gas money with his buddies to go wake boarding, fishing, or partying in the boat, to getting married and having my parents deed it to me in 2000, to becoming a dad myself with three young children, with my oldest son now being almost 11. So, the boat is very special to me.

Its been through a 1986 Yamaha 70, a 1996 Yamaha 60, a 2006 Yamaha F60, and is now getting a new Yamaha F70 (I gave the F60 to a guy at my church, who has had my boat for about a year and a half. I was able to find him another 15 hull and get mine back for the project).

Sea Fox boats were formerly made on James Island, SC, and the complex of warehouses off Signal Point road is somewhat of marine central, at least to me. There are many different colorful characters around, and you can find someone to do anything (whether its repair an engine, make cushions or a bimini, weld a custom seat, refinish a prop, do custom woodworking, or re-finish a Boston Whaler). To make a short story long, I have been messing around back there for 15 years, and am good friends with some of the guys. I got close to them by writing people mean letters (I am a lawyer) when people refused to pay for repairs and not charging them. That means getting your boat repaired quicker than most, and cheaper than most. One thing they have done there is refinish Whalers for a long time.

My current project is pretty wild. I took an old Sea Fox console, with dimensions perfect for a 15 Whaler, and I had it painted with Awl Grip. I spent last weekend transforming it from a blank piece of fiberglass into a pretty amazing work of art. I did a lot of measuring and thinking, and then got to cutting:

[All images are now at http://15whaler.wordpress.com and dead links in this initial post have been removed--jimh.]

The boat itself is in the process of being prepped for the awl grip as we speak. The cracked up gelcoat was sanded off, a long process. I had them cut a rigging tunnel for the gear.

I then came up with the idea to cut out an area that would be within the footprint of the center console, and remove the foam. I measured and had a custom fuel tank made (quite complicated, as the area was 22"w forward, and is 24"w aft. The length is likewise 22". The bottom of the whaler is of course round, making the bottom of the tank round, angled, and having two 1.25" wings. I measured it all with cardboard and mailed it to New Jersey. I got a tank back that dropped in perfectly.

We have now glassed the interior for the tank, and finished the rigging tunnel.

This is an example of one they finished a while back, same model console, but different from mine. Can see rigging tunnel as well.

Its further along now, I just haven't been able to go over there in a week.

When it is finished, the boat will be cloud white, all over, except the gunwales will be flag blue and non-skid chevy white (light gray). We have a white rub rail with stainless steel insert, and will be putting new bow chock, eyes, and normal pin from specialty marine on it. Even the F70 was painted cloud white.

This post is already too long, so I won't outline all the features in it. I will in a reply or a later thread. I expect to have the boat done within a few weeks, and its gonna be awesome.

I know jimh loves classics, but in fairness, I restored it already as a classic once before, and I have a bad back. I need to be able to get around in it and enjoy it.

I was able to get three Garelick chairs which match up perfectly side by side by side within 1 inch tolerance on the interior in the stern of the boat.
A Yeti Tundra 35 will provide seating in the bow.
I ordered a custom hatch for the console, and a drawer for my wife to store her stuff, added
a Garmin 741,
dual USB charger,
cig lighter charger,
Yamaha Tach and
Yamaha Speed / Fuel gauge,
will have hydraulic steering,
added courtesy lighting below the rod holders,
will even drain the SS cupholders out of the console to keep it neat
Blue Sea Systems panel switches with breakers
JL Audio 7.7 M Series speakers, and amp hidden in console (sorry jimh but my 7 year old daughter likes music and she's cuter than you)

You should see how close it all fits. I spent forever picking the stuff out. Its pretty exciting to seeing it come together. Its gonna be so neat to enjoy for another 28 years like we have thus far...

posted 08-08-2014 06:58 AM ET (US)            

Some years back I had a dry and solid ...but cosmetically challenged $200 whaler 13 that I restored. In the process of fix up, I contemplated putting a glass window in the bottom (for use in the keys, primarily) but I could never come up with a design I liked for underwater application.

posted 08-08-2014 09:10 AM ET (US)            

1. What is the capacity?

2. Other than the fiberglassing of the cutout, did you reinforce the outer hull (like stringers) in that area given that the structural support foam sandwich was removed?

3. Is the tank glassed or otherwise bonded in place?

4. Where is the fill and venting?

posted 08-08-2014 11:26 PM ET (US)            

The fuel fill is on the starboard side of the console. Fitting on tank and vent are on the forward starboard part of tank. Tank was measured with cardboard etc and made. Then we actually glassed around tank perfectly to hold like a cradle. Nothing needed to hold it in place. It sits perfectly. Rubber gasket is all it needs. Holds 12 gallons.

First, the entire old gel coat was sanded down and removed. Was cracked horribly.

My understanding is that Kurt uses Awlfair. Then gets it smooth. Then goes back with a ton of spray Awlfair. Then primer. Then paint. Then nonskid where needed. Then barrier coat on bottom.

I posted a couple more pics to Wordpress. Link above. Coming along.

posted 08-16-2014 09:02 PM ET (US)            

all pics here

http://15whaler.wordpress.com

http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-forum/ 448525d1408234273-1986-15-whaler-restore-custom-mod-pics-2014-08-16-18. 27.06.jpg
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-forum/ 448526d1408234283-1986-15-whaler-restore-custom-mod-pics-2014-08-16-18. 24.19.jpg
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-forum/ 448527d1408234307-1986-15-whaler-restore-custom-mod-pics-2014-08-16-18. 24.36.jpg
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-forum/ 448528d1408234318-1986-15-whaler-restore-custom-mod-pics-2014-08-16-18. 24.52.jpg

posted 08-17-2014 07:05 PM ET (US)            

The hull sides are actually flag blue Awlcraft.

It looks black except in the direct sun. Same color Hinckley uses on a lot of their boats.

posted 08-18-2014 12:07 PM ET (US)            

Awlgrip vs. Awlcraft 2000 – What are the differences?

Posted on January 13, 2014 by BottomPaintStore

Awlgrip and Awlcraft 2000 – Which is better?

Awlgrip and Awlcraft 2000 are two different types of urethane topcoats manufactured by Awlgrip. Each one has its own advantages and disadvantages and when trying to decide which to apply, it is important to know the differences between them.

Awlgrip is based on a polyester urethane resin and Awlcraft 2000 is based on an Acrylic Urethane resin. At the surface they seem very similar, but at the molecular level they are vastly different. Polyester molecules are much smaller than acrylic molecules. This means that at any given volume, there can be more polyester molecules than acrylic and this allows polyester films to be more dense and tough. Awlgrip has more abrasion and chemical resistance than Awlcraft and is usually more rigid.

Awlcraft, on the other hand is not without its own advantages. It is generally easier to apply. The larger molecules and less dense film of the acrylic allows for faster drying and therefore less dust entrapment in the finish. Both urethane topcoats will resist staining and provide a long lasting gloss. It is best to consider cure times, reparability, application methods, chemical resistance, as well as abrasion resistance when deciding which topcoat to choose.

Which is more suited for buffing?

Both Awlgrip and Awlcraft 2000 urethane topcoats have a protective resin layer. This layer is the first line of defense against UV light and abrasive damage. Underneath this resin is a layer of rich pigment particles that give the paint its bright shine and color. Awlgrip has a thicker protective resin layer and when the polyester is scratched, it is necessary to cut deeply into the resin to repair it. Buffing the surface leaves the pigment exposed and compromises the performance of the paint in the long run.

Awlcraft has a softer finish, due to the less dense molecular structure, and thus has a lower melting point. When this acrylic urethane is buffed, the resin is able to flow together and does not require cutting the surface as deeply. So, Awlcraft 2000 is more suited for buffing and Awlgrip will require a Fairing Compound.

Awlgrip vs Awlcraft 2000 – Fast Facts

Awlgrip - Polyester Urethane Topcoat

Can be applied by spray or brush/roll.

Excellent color retention and chemical resistance.

More dense molecular structure.

Awlcraft 2000 – Acrylic Urethane Topcoat

For spray application only.

Superior flow-out and high gloss.

Fast drying to reduce dust entrapment.

More user friendly in application. Easy to repair.

posted 09-12-2014 11:03 PM ET (US)            

Looks good.

Picking it up tomorrow.

posted 09-14-2014 08:33 PM ET (US)            

Runs incredible. Sits in the water very level with the tank in the belly and weight now more forward. Even with the heavy seats and the F70.

A few water pics from earlier today. Have had this boat 26 years. So glad to have her brand new.

posted 09-15-2014 07:35 PM ET (US)            

Thank you for the compliments. It does perform very well. I'm swapping the prop tomorrow for a higher pitch. Will see what happens. It's turning 6400 rpm with a full tank and I think I can get more efficiency and more top end from a higher pitch. Will see.

posted 09-20-2014 09:50 AM ET (US)            

I am such a perfectionist sometimes with projects etc. but not in the 'I'm that guy who fusses at his kids for wearing their shoes as they get in the boat" way.

I am 99% done with this one. I was able to get all my Yamaha NMEA 2000 data to show up on the Garmin which required removing the rigging tunnel to run the cable. That of course led me to decide I wasn't satisfied with the way the entire set of cables and rigging was secured. I re-tied all the cables and neatly organized those under the console so they can't get snagged. Even put a rigging hose over the cables.

That being said, I am about at wit's end with the painters. I was finally assured by the owner of the yard that I will have the completed boat with bow hatch and rigging tunnel finished by Wednesday. Dropping the boat Monday.

I currently have no bow hatch and it drives me crazy because it's the visual focus of the boat from the helm. It will look great when done though. The hatch is cloud white awlgrip with Chevy white nonskid like the rest of the interior. Rigging tunnel just Chevy white nonskid.

Then I can quit trying to take pictures that don't show the gapimg hole where the hatch goes.