Fuel Tank Level for Storage - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
  Fuel Tank Level for Storage

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Fuel Tank Level for Storage

Jholmes105 posted 09-29-2014 06:01 AM ET (US)
Should I store the Outrage with the fuel tank full of gasoline? Or does it not matter? I always run Stabil in the tank. What does everybody do, as we prepare for Winter Whaler Hibernation?
JP
jimh posted 09-29-2014 06:40 AM ET (US)
I was just thinking about this topic. No, not the topic of the fuel tank level, but the topic itself--when would a new discussion about fuel tank level for storage begin. It seems like there is an annual discussion of this each Fall.
What I have done:
--buy fresh gasoline close to time of storage
--treat the gasoline with a stabilizer as soon as possible after purchase
--use the stabilizer recommended by my outboard engine manufacturer
--fill the tank so it is more than half-full but not full to the brim
Jefecinco posted 09-29-2014 09:20 AM ET (US)
Old solutions die hard. I like a full tank of Marine Stabil treated fuel. I use the recommended dosage for storage.
It's not really a factor but I believe the fuel you buy today will cost more in the Spring.
Butch
martyn1075 posted 09-29-2014 01:39 PM ET (US)
I think the main factor here is if the gas is premium or ethanol and if it has been treated properly on time. Also the climate you live in over the winter might play a role as well. After that older engines performance and reliability vs new modern outboards may be more specific to having average older gas and the best cleanest gas possible.
I have never been a believer in the full tank theory. Its just more unused gas that sits in a tank which is expensive. Apparently the tank has a potential to collect moisture which then drips into the gas and mixes. I'm not arguing that this does not happen but perhaps the climate in certain regions plays apart in this reaction more than others. It doesn't sound good, but is it droplets mixing with old gas to begin with, or old gas with ethanol which has been treated or not treated? Many factors come into play. The use of a clean micron filter replaced every Spring or first time used after winter rest is a must imo and will catch any of these so called droplets contaminated fuel. The container that holds the fuel via the separator can be examined before use it will give you a good idea of what is happening in your tank. Should be able to see your stabilizer additive in there as well.
I have always;
1) add a little bit of fresh gas (tank about 1/4 full usually) This way we have lots of space for clean fresh gas during Spring. Engines like fresh gas we know this.
2) add correct amount of stabilizer, some people add additional products as well.
3) run the engine, best done in the water under force
4) bring it back clean it out with fresh water
5) "winterize" process varies with each person
6) cover the boat well
7) have a beer sometimes more and relax. Then from time to time dream about next season.
tedious posted 10-01-2014 08:55 AM ET (US)
We store a boat with a 100 gallon tank - it's on the Maine coast, so gets put away in September and woken up in June. For 10 years we've been running the tank down to as little fuel as practical, and including Sta-Bil in the right proportion prior to our trip to the ramp, to make sure it gets all through the fuel system. Some years we've ended up with as few as 10 gallons, some years we don't get it right and it's been more like 40.
In the spring, we change the fuel filter and fill the tank, and go boating. We've never had any sort of problem - that's with a Yamaha F200.
Tim
K Albus posted 10-01-2014 09:20 AM ET (US)
The owner's manual from Boston Whaler for my Dauntless 180/Optimax 135 recommended completely draining the entire fuel system for extended storage, or if that was not possible, to fill the fuel tank as much as possible and treat the fuel with fuel stabilizer.
The owner's manual for my new boat with a Yamaha F250 recommends completely draining the entire fuel system for extended storage, or if that is not possible, to fill the fuel tank to approximately 7/8 full and treat the fuel with fuel stabilizer.
My boats have always been located and stored in Michigan. They have typically been stored for approximately six months or more over the winter. I have always filled my tanks as much as possible with stabilizer-treated fuel. I have never had any water contamination problems, nor any problems relating to fuel quality. Virtually all of the fuel involved has been E-10.
boatdryver posted 10-01-2014 09:56 AM ET (US)
Here we go again............ ;-)
Our cruising boat had a 1000 gallon fuel capacity in 3 vented tanks, diesel of course, so there was no worry about ethanol. Over 7 seasons of our ownership with the boat in the water in Washington State (sometimes ice and snow on deck) I left the tanks half to 2/3 full and no water ever appeared in the large transparent Racor bowls after startup in the Spring.
Faced with all these conflicting anecdotes, what would a newbie decide to do?
JimL
K Albus posted 10-01-2014 10:13 AM ET (US)
I think if you review all of the anecdotal evidence you will find that are two keys to success: 1)keep the fuel relatively fresh, and 2) make sure the fuel is treated with a stabilizer before extended storage.
I don't think the level of the fuel in the tank makes much difference. However, I've always stored my boats near full, and I've never had a problem. Since that has worked for me, I will continue doing it that way. I know others who don't store their boats near full, and they haven't had any problems either. If that works for you, then have at it.
I've never seen any kind of scientific study on this. It would nice if some group like Boat U.S. did one.
Jefecinco posted 10-01-2014 10:50 AM ET (US)
There seems to be a trend by boat and engine manufacturers to recommend either completely draining the fuel system before extended storage or to fill or almost fill the system if complete draining is impractical. Complete draining appears to be preferred.
Portable fuel tanks are relatively easy to drain and if they do not have oil added the fuel can be put in vehicles. Installed tanks are more troublesome to drain and are perhaps more suited for the full or almost full tank method.
Happily my season is now year round and I no longer have to be concerned about winterizing. I boat less in the winter so I do add the storage dosage of Marine Stabil in December.
Butch

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Fuel Tank Level for Storage
Jholmes105	posted 09-29-2014 06:01 AM ET (US) Should I store the Outrage with the fuel tank full of gasoline? Or does it not matter? I always run Stabil in the tank. What does everybody do, as we prepare for Winter Whaler Hibernation? JP
jimh	posted 09-29-2014 06:40 AM ET (US) I was just thinking about this topic. No, not the topic of the fuel tank level, but the topic itself--when would a new discussion about fuel tank level for storage begin. It seems like there is an annual discussion of this each Fall. What I have done: --buy fresh gasoline close to time of storage --treat the gasoline with a stabilizer as soon as possible after purchase --use the stabilizer recommended by my outboard engine manufacturer --fill the tank so it is more than half-full but not full to the brim
Jefecinco	posted 09-29-2014 09:20 AM ET (US) Old solutions die hard. I like a full tank of Marine Stabil treated fuel. I use the recommended dosage for storage. It's not really a factor but I believe the fuel you buy today will cost more in the Spring. Butch
martyn1075	posted 09-29-2014 01:39 PM ET (US) I think the main factor here is if the gas is premium or ethanol and if it has been treated properly on time. Also the climate you live in over the winter might play a role as well. After that older engines performance and reliability vs new modern outboards may be more specific to having average older gas and the best cleanest gas possible. I have never been a believer in the full tank theory. Its just more unused gas that sits in a tank which is expensive. Apparently the tank has a potential to collect moisture which then drips into the gas and mixes. I'm not arguing that this does not happen but perhaps the climate in certain regions plays apart in this reaction more than others. It doesn't sound good, but is it droplets mixing with old gas to begin with, or old gas with ethanol which has been treated or not treated? Many factors come into play. The use of a clean micron filter replaced every Spring or first time used after winter rest is a must imo and will catch any of these so called droplets contaminated fuel. The container that holds the fuel via the separator can be examined before use it will give you a good idea of what is happening in your tank. Should be able to see your stabilizer additive in there as well. I have always; 1) add a little bit of fresh gas (tank about 1/4 full usually) This way we have lots of space for clean fresh gas during Spring. Engines like fresh gas we know this. 2) add correct amount of stabilizer, some people add additional products as well. 3) run the engine, best done in the water under force 4) bring it back clean it out with fresh water 5) "winterize" process varies with each person 6) cover the boat well 7) have a beer sometimes more and relax. Then from time to time dream about next season.
tedious	posted 10-01-2014 08:55 AM ET (US) We store a boat with a 100 gallon tank - it's on the Maine coast, so gets put away in September and woken up in June. For 10 years we've been running the tank down to as little fuel as practical, and including Sta-Bil in the right proportion prior to our trip to the ramp, to make sure it gets all through the fuel system. Some years we've ended up with as few as 10 gallons, some years we don't get it right and it's been more like 40. In the spring, we change the fuel filter and fill the tank, and go boating. We've never had any sort of problem - that's with a Yamaha F200. Tim
K Albus	posted 10-01-2014 09:20 AM ET (US) The owner's manual from Boston Whaler for my Dauntless 180/Optimax 135 recommended completely draining the entire fuel system for extended storage, or if that was not possible, to fill the fuel tank as much as possible and treat the fuel with fuel stabilizer. The owner's manual for my new boat with a Yamaha F250 recommends completely draining the entire fuel system for extended storage, or if that is not possible, to fill the fuel tank to approximately 7/8 full and treat the fuel with fuel stabilizer. My boats have always been located and stored in Michigan. They have typically been stored for approximately six months or more over the winter. I have always filled my tanks as much as possible with stabilizer-treated fuel. I have never had any water contamination problems, nor any problems relating to fuel quality. Virtually all of the fuel involved has been E-10.
boatdryver	posted 10-01-2014 09:56 AM ET (US) Here we go again............ ;-) Our cruising boat had a 1000 gallon fuel capacity in 3 vented tanks, diesel of course, so there was no worry about ethanol. Over 7 seasons of our ownership with the boat in the water in Washington State (sometimes ice and snow on deck) I left the tanks half to 2/3 full and no water ever appeared in the large transparent Racor bowls after startup in the Spring. Faced with all these conflicting anecdotes, what would a newbie decide to do? JimL
K Albus	posted 10-01-2014 10:13 AM ET (US) I think if you review all of the anecdotal evidence you will find that are two keys to success: 1)keep the fuel relatively fresh, and 2) make sure the fuel is treated with a stabilizer before extended storage. I don't think the level of the fuel in the tank makes much difference. However, I've always stored my boats near full, and I've never had a problem. Since that has worked for me, I will continue doing it that way. I know others who don't store their boats near full, and they haven't had any problems either. If that works for you, then have at it. I've never seen any kind of scientific study on this. It would nice if some group like Boat U.S. did one.
Jefecinco	posted 10-01-2014 10:50 AM ET (US) There seems to be a trend by boat and engine manufacturers to recommend either completely draining the fuel system before extended storage or to fill or almost fill the system if complete draining is impractical. Complete draining appears to be preferred. Portable fuel tanks are relatively easy to drain and if they do not have oil added the fuel can be put in vehicles. Installed tanks are more troublesome to drain and are perhaps more suited for the full or almost full tank method. Happily my season is now year round and I no longer have to be concerned about winterizing. I boat less in the winter so I do add the storage dosage of Marine Stabil in December. Butch