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Author Topic:   First time putting my Outrage in a slip

DaveS posted 10-28-2014 12:15 PM ET (US)
I've finally decided to put my 1999 17' Outrage in a slip next year. In doing so, a few things have occurred to me. First, besides bottom paint, which I already have, do I need? I know I need to repaint, but what else will be involved in this process? How long should the dock lines be? Do I need to use bumpers? What else am I missing?
Second, I've settled between two marinas. The first one is a full service marina that does all types or repairs, from engine to fiberglass, in addition to fuel docks, bait and tackle store, showers, a pool and a restaurant. The other one is just a basic marina. Stop and go with a bathroom. There are bait and tackle stores on the way to the marina but not at it. Fuel is not too far either and there are service techs that are on the next block. Both marinas have good reputations.
I'd save $40/foot going to the basic marina but I don't have enough experience to know if the full service marina is worth it. What are your thoughts?
Thanks and have a great day!
Dave
andygere posted 10-28-2014 12:35 PM ET (US)
My best advice for you is to get a good fitting mooring cover (such as Mills Canvas), or have one custom made by a local shop. It won't be cheap, but it will save you time and money on upkeep of your boat. Be sure it covers the powerhead of your outboard, or get a separate cover to protect if from fading/UV damage. Make sure the cover will accommodate dock lines the way you will be using them to moor your boat.
The next recommendation is to buy a Gull Sweep, and have your cover maker incorporate a way to install it on the highest point of your boat, which is often the top of the console rail. This is the only thing that will keep your boat from being a bird bathroom. Don't bother with anything else, these things work. http://www.gullsweep.com/
Make sure you notify your insurance company that you will be mooring your boat in a marina, and double check what your coverage includes. Many policies added a lot of exclusions related to storms, weather and hurricanes. Know the value of your boat and be sure your coverage matches your expectations for compensation should something happen to it.
Buy some large, good quality fenders. A dock can rub through your gelcoat overnight if not protected properly, so set your fenders up properly. Use at least 3 or 4. Buy some good quality braided dock lines, length will depend on how the slip is set up, but 10-15' should be plenty. I snug my boat pretty close to the fenders, but allow a bit of give. What you don't want is a foot of play in the lines so that your boat is twisting and banging the dock with every wake or surge in the harbor.
Paint your waterlines a little higher than the true waterline of your boat, and be sure to mark them with a full tank of fuel and whatever equipment you normally leave aboard. How much higher you go will depend on how much slosh and surge is in the marina. 1-2" above true waterline is typical, take a look at what other folks in the harbor are doing.
As for which marina to choose, I'd talk with folks who use each, and get an idea on how good is the security, facility upkeep and what the rules allow and disallow (can you add a cleat to your dock, are dock boxes included/allowed, is there power/water on the dock, etc.). How is parking? Will you be able to get a space near your dock on busy weekends? Only you can determine if you will use the additional amenities offered at the full service marina.
Finally, by all means do it. You will use your boat more, get on the water faster and get the most out of your boating season.
DVollrath posted 10-28-2014 01:14 PM ET (US)
Hi Dave,
I suspect the $40/foot is a typo, but please clarify. $40/month perhaps?
My opinion is that security and fuel considerations are near the top of the list when choosing a marina. Having portable tanks makes a basic marina more attractive, but if your boat has a built-in and on-water fuel is available close by it may still be a good choice. I'm not sure what your situation is.
With regards to security, a mooring cover is one of your best friends. Prying eyes are prevented from seeing your electronics etc. I bought a Mills cover for my Outrage 18, and it is superbly constructed. Having stable long-term neighbors in the slips around you is a plus as well. We all keep an eye on each other's boats.
Gull poo does not seem to be much of a problem where I keep my boat, so I have made no provisions in that regard.
As far as bottom painting goes, one other consideration regarding how far you bring the line up is whether you plan on repowering or reconfiguring in the near future. When I bought my Montauk, it came with a 100hp motor and dual batteries at the transom. I repowered to a lighter Yamaha F70, and went to a single battery in the console. The waterline changed (the stern rode higher, the bow lower), and I had a few barnacles grow in the front until I repainted higher.
Dennis
Phil T posted 10-28-2014 02:59 PM ET (US)
Dave -
For the benefit of respondents, please confirm you are considering a slip in NJ with access to the ocean. This will help members who are in your region provide input.
tedious posted 10-28-2014 03:02 PM ET (US)
I'm guessing the $40 difference is per foot, per year.
The advice to talk to other owners is spot on - and make sure you understand the cost structure of everything. For example, does either marina disallow your bringing in someone else to work on your boat, or doing work yourself? Are there any hidden charges such as for trailer storage, mandatory haulage, etc.?
One good line of questioning is to see how long people have been with the marina - if they have been there a long time, and seem like folks you'd like to be around, that's a good sign.
Tim
DaveS posted 10-28-2014 04:28 PM ET (US)
Guys,
Thanks for all the suggestions. Some things I never even thought about! As for the marinas, one is $50/foot while the second one is $90/foot. Both marinas are on Barnegat Bay, NJ. The basic service one is more, mid-bay, while the full service marina is about a mile or so from the Barnegat Inlet. I'll have easy ocean access from either location, probably a 10 minute longer run to open water. I'm personally leaning towards the full service marina but there are lots of little toys I could buy if I put it in at the cheaper marina.
I'm looking forward to putting my boat in the water next year, I just don't like too many surprises and figure winter is the best time to take care of whatever issues I have.
One more question, am I better to bottom paint before the winter or wait until I'm ready to put it in the water?
Thanks again!
Dave
RevengeFamily posted 10-28-2014 05:36 PM ET (US)
Dave,
Are you speaking of High Bar Harbor Yacht Club? It's a very clean facility. The folks were friendly when I kept my boat there years back...
However, we never really used the pool, and I'm pretty sure that's what the extra $40.00 a foot supports... and the fact that they are so close to Barnegat Inlet...
Your boat is stingy enough on fuel that the longer ride from the mid bay marina will give you an opportunity to let the kids get behind the helm before you get to the insanity that can be Barnegat Inlet on a summer weekend...
I have painted my boat bottom in the fall and have had no problems the following summer...
Either way, give Old Barney a wave for me as you cruise through the inlet next summer...
Norm
DaveS posted 10-28-2014 05:52 PM ET (US)
Norm,
The two marinas are Bakers Basin and Key Harbor. I've visited both and was happy either way but I have a feeling Key Harbor is a little better fit. I'm going to swing down there again and look at both marinas again and then decide. I still have a few questions to ask before I commit.
Thanks again!
stayinstrewn posted 10-28-2014 09:11 PM ET (US)
Easy! As long as the cheaper yard has decent docks, and running water don't think twice. Spend the $890 (plus tax) savings on gas, electronics, bait, skiing, whatever. This is a great opportunity for you to really learn how to maintain your boat and, should help be needed, grab one of the guys from around the corner. No brainier to me--forget all these expensive full service marinas.
andygere posted 10-28-2014 10:59 PM ET (US)
If you are using ablative antifouling paint, you can do it this fall. Most epoxy based paints must be wet soon after application or they lose their effectiveness. Use the ablative type.
JMARTIN posted 10-29-2014 12:10 PM ET (US)
How far you have to pack your gear and where you park the car should be considered.
John
endus posted 10-29-2014 12:49 PM ET (US)
Absolutely get yourself a set of good quality fenders. Depending on the type/orientation of the slip you'll probably want fenders for both sides. I like to hang my fenders horizontally on these types of boats...i.e. a line tied to two stanchions which hangs the fender horizontally in the middle at the appropriate height for the dock.
Do not attach your fenders to the upper part of the stanchion or the rail the stanchions support! I see people do this all the time! It's an excellent way to bend stanchions or rip them right out of the boat. Fenders should be tied as low as possible if you're securing them to the stanchions.
For lines, get some good quality three strand. Depending on your preference, you may want them to have a loop spliced in the end so you can attach them to the cleats on your boat or the dock that way. If you know how to splice you could also just splice the lines on to the cleats on the dock so they're always there. You can buy pre-spliced dock lines at West Marine.
We used to secure the Montauk where I worked with one line running to a cleat we installed on each side in the middle of the boat. We did it this way because it was in and out of the dock constantly...it worked surprisingly well!
That said, I would want the usual double bow lines, stern line, and spring line if it were my boat. If I had a single boat slip, I would tie it up on both sides so that it was held away from the dock. They should be long enough to allow you to secure the boat...it will vary from dock to dock.
DaveS posted 10-30-2014 09:06 AM ET (US)
Thanks for all the information...You've given me much to think about. I called the Baker's Basin and talked with the person there and he went into great details about the place: location, fuel, service, tide, makeup of people mooring there. I'm planning to head down to check out the place in person next week. If I like what I see, I'll be putting down a deposit on one. He said I should be able to drive right up to the boat...can't beat that!
Thanks again!
Dave
Binkster posted 10-30-2014 06:48 PM ET (US)
My opinion is that painting the bottom of your Boston Whaler and leaving it in a slip for an extended length of time is akin to making your expensive house pet dog, live outside in a dog house. Only thing worse is leaving it at a mooring.
rich
acseatsri posted 11-01-2014 01:19 PM ET (US)
I'd go with the cheaper marina as long as it has floating docks, bathrooms, a fish cleaning station (if you're a fisherperson), and fresh water at the slip. For lines and fenders, I like 3/8" x 15' BRAIDED lines (they absorb shock better) and Taylor fenders 4-6" diameter, the larger size if the boat is subjected to wakes at the slip.
As far as bottom paint goes, use ablative (I like Micron Extra with Biolux to prevent slime). Use a different color paint on your first coat than subsequent coats. This way you can see when it starts to wear thin and just re-apply on the high wear areas like the keel and chines. It prevents the paint building up to 1/16" thick in one area and nearly nothing in others after a few years.
PS- ablative paint maintains its effectiveness as it wears away. You can really put it on anytime you like. I tried Petit Hydrocoat a couple years ago and end up going back to Interlux Micron with Biolux because I had slime build up on the bottom with the Hydrocoat.
macfam posted 11-01-2014 09:38 PM ET (US)
Just an update on Pettit Hydrocoat:
This year, on both boats, 13' Super Sport and the 28, I used the NEW Hydrocoat ECO, water-based copper-free, anti-fouling. It is far superior to the original Hydrocoat, or Hydrocoat SR.
The firm that hauls the 28' claimed that the hull was the cleanest hull they had ever seen. Truly remarkable. From Memorial Day until Halloween, and there was virtually nothing, including slime on either hull. The Power washer really was unnecessary. Although, I did use it to simply spray to remove any salt that dried on the hull.
Being water-based, it easy on, and easy clean-up with soap and water.
Being copper-free, it can even be used on metals, with no electrolysis or promotion of corrosion.
Hydrocoat ECO can be used over most other bottom paints.
This is my choice from now on.

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Author	Topic: First time putting my Outrage in a slip
DaveS	posted 10-28-2014 12:15 PM ET (US) I've finally decided to put my 1999 17' Outrage in a slip next year. In doing so, a few things have occurred to me. First, besides bottom paint, which I already have, do I need? I know I need to repaint, but what else will be involved in this process? How long should the dock lines be? Do I need to use bumpers? What else am I missing? Second, I've settled between two marinas. The first one is a full service marina that does all types or repairs, from engine to fiberglass, in addition to fuel docks, bait and tackle store, showers, a pool and a restaurant. The other one is just a basic marina. Stop and go with a bathroom. There are bait and tackle stores on the way to the marina but not at it. Fuel is not too far either and there are service techs that are on the next block. Both marinas have good reputations. I'd save $40/foot going to the basic marina but I don't have enough experience to know if the full service marina is worth it. What are your thoughts? Thanks and have a great day! Dave
andygere	posted 10-28-2014 12:35 PM ET (US) My best advice for you is to get a good fitting mooring cover (such as Mills Canvas), or have one custom made by a local shop. It won't be cheap, but it will save you time and money on upkeep of your boat. Be sure it covers the powerhead of your outboard, or get a separate cover to protect if from fading/UV damage. Make sure the cover will accommodate dock lines the way you will be using them to moor your boat. The next recommendation is to buy a Gull Sweep, and have your cover maker incorporate a way to install it on the highest point of your boat, which is often the top of the console rail. This is the only thing that will keep your boat from being a bird bathroom. Don't bother with anything else, these things work. http://www.gullsweep.com/ Make sure you notify your insurance company that you will be mooring your boat in a marina, and double check what your coverage includes. Many policies added a lot of exclusions related to storms, weather and hurricanes. Know the value of your boat and be sure your coverage matches your expectations for compensation should something happen to it. Buy some large, good quality fenders. A dock can rub through your gelcoat overnight if not protected properly, so set your fenders up properly. Use at least 3 or 4. Buy some good quality braided dock lines, length will depend on how the slip is set up, but 10-15' should be plenty. I snug my boat pretty close to the fenders, but allow a bit of give. What you don't want is a foot of play in the lines so that your boat is twisting and banging the dock with every wake or surge in the harbor. Paint your waterlines a little higher than the true waterline of your boat, and be sure to mark them with a full tank of fuel and whatever equipment you normally leave aboard. How much higher you go will depend on how much slosh and surge is in the marina. 1-2" above true waterline is typical, take a look at what other folks in the harbor are doing. As for which marina to choose, I'd talk with folks who use each, and get an idea on how good is the security, facility upkeep and what the rules allow and disallow (can you add a cleat to your dock, are dock boxes included/allowed, is there power/water on the dock, etc.). How is parking? Will you be able to get a space near your dock on busy weekends? Only you can determine if you will use the additional amenities offered at the full service marina. Finally, by all means do it. You will use your boat more, get on the water faster and get the most out of your boating season.
DVollrath	posted 10-28-2014 01:14 PM ET (US) Hi Dave, I suspect the $40/foot is a typo, but please clarify. $40/month perhaps? My opinion is that security and fuel considerations are near the top of the list when choosing a marina. Having portable tanks makes a basic marina more attractive, but if your boat has a built-in and on-water fuel is available close by it may still be a good choice. I'm not sure what your situation is. With regards to security, a mooring cover is one of your best friends. Prying eyes are prevented from seeing your electronics etc. I bought a Mills cover for my Outrage 18, and it is superbly constructed. Having stable long-term neighbors in the slips around you is a plus as well. We all keep an eye on each other's boats. Gull poo does not seem to be much of a problem where I keep my boat, so I have made no provisions in that regard. As far as bottom painting goes, one other consideration regarding how far you bring the line up is whether you plan on repowering or reconfiguring in the near future. When I bought my Montauk, it came with a 100hp motor and dual batteries at the transom. I repowered to a lighter Yamaha F70, and went to a single battery in the console. The waterline changed (the stern rode higher, the bow lower), and I had a few barnacles grow in the front until I repainted higher. Dennis
Phil T	posted 10-28-2014 02:59 PM ET (US) Dave - For the benefit of respondents, please confirm you are considering a slip in NJ with access to the ocean. This will help members who are in your region provide input.
tedious	posted 10-28-2014 03:02 PM ET (US) I'm guessing the $40 difference is per foot, per year. The advice to talk to other owners is spot on - and make sure you understand the cost structure of everything. For example, does either marina disallow your bringing in someone else to work on your boat, or doing work yourself? Are there any hidden charges such as for trailer storage, mandatory haulage, etc.? One good line of questioning is to see how long people have been with the marina - if they have been there a long time, and seem like folks you'd like to be around, that's a good sign. Tim
DaveS	posted 10-28-2014 04:28 PM ET (US) Guys, Thanks for all the suggestions. Some things I never even thought about! As for the marinas, one is $50/foot while the second one is $90/foot. Both marinas are on Barnegat Bay, NJ. The basic service one is more, mid-bay, while the full service marina is about a mile or so from the Barnegat Inlet. I'll have easy ocean access from either location, probably a 10 minute longer run to open water. I'm personally leaning towards the full service marina but there are lots of little toys I could buy if I put it in at the cheaper marina. I'm looking forward to putting my boat in the water next year, I just don't like too many surprises and figure winter is the best time to take care of whatever issues I have. One more question, am I better to bottom paint before the winter or wait until I'm ready to put it in the water? Thanks again! Dave
RevengeFamily	posted 10-28-2014 05:36 PM ET (US) Dave, Are you speaking of High Bar Harbor Yacht Club? It's a very clean facility. The folks were friendly when I kept my boat there years back... However, we never really used the pool, and I'm pretty sure that's what the extra $40.00 a foot supports... and the fact that they are so close to Barnegat Inlet... Your boat is stingy enough on fuel that the longer ride from the mid bay marina will give you an opportunity to let the kids get behind the helm before you get to the insanity that can be Barnegat Inlet on a summer weekend... I have painted my boat bottom in the fall and have had no problems the following summer... Either way, give Old Barney a wave for me as you cruise through the inlet next summer... Norm
DaveS	posted 10-28-2014 05:52 PM ET (US) Norm, The two marinas are Bakers Basin and Key Harbor. I've visited both and was happy either way but I have a feeling Key Harbor is a little better fit. I'm going to swing down there again and look at both marinas again and then decide. I still have a few questions to ask before I commit. Thanks again!
stayinstrewn	posted 10-28-2014 09:11 PM ET (US) Easy! As long as the cheaper yard has decent docks, and running water don't think twice. Spend the $890 (plus tax) savings on gas, electronics, bait, skiing, whatever. This is a great opportunity for you to really learn how to maintain your boat and, should help be needed, grab one of the guys from around the corner. No brainier to me--forget all these expensive full service marinas.
andygere	posted 10-28-2014 10:59 PM ET (US) If you are using ablative antifouling paint, you can do it this fall. Most epoxy based paints must be wet soon after application or they lose their effectiveness. Use the ablative type.
JMARTIN	posted 10-29-2014 12:10 PM ET (US) How far you have to pack your gear and where you park the car should be considered. John
endus	posted 10-29-2014 12:49 PM ET (US) Absolutely get yourself a set of good quality fenders. Depending on the type/orientation of the slip you'll probably want fenders for both sides. I like to hang my fenders horizontally on these types of boats...i.e. a line tied to two stanchions which hangs the fender horizontally in the middle at the appropriate height for the dock. Do not attach your fenders to the upper part of the stanchion or the rail the stanchions support! I see people do this all the time! It's an excellent way to bend stanchions or rip them right out of the boat. Fenders should be tied as low as possible if you're securing them to the stanchions. For lines, get some good quality three strand. Depending on your preference, you may want them to have a loop spliced in the end so you can attach them to the cleats on your boat or the dock that way. If you know how to splice you could also just splice the lines on to the cleats on the dock so they're always there. You can buy pre-spliced dock lines at West Marine. We used to secure the Montauk where I worked with one line running to a cleat we installed on each side in the middle of the boat. We did it this way because it was in and out of the dock constantly...it worked surprisingly well! That said, I would want the usual double bow lines, stern line, and spring line if it were my boat. If I had a single boat slip, I would tie it up on both sides so that it was held away from the dock. They should be long enough to allow you to secure the boat...it will vary from dock to dock.
DaveS	posted 10-30-2014 09:06 AM ET (US) Thanks for all the information...You've given me much to think about. I called the Baker's Basin and talked with the person there and he went into great details about the place: location, fuel, service, tide, makeup of people mooring there. I'm planning to head down to check out the place in person next week. If I like what I see, I'll be putting down a deposit on one. He said I should be able to drive right up to the boat...can't beat that! Thanks again! Dave
Binkster	posted 10-30-2014 06:48 PM ET (US) My opinion is that painting the bottom of your Boston Whaler and leaving it in a slip for an extended length of time is akin to making your expensive house pet dog, live outside in a dog house. Only thing worse is leaving it at a mooring. rich
acseatsri	posted 11-01-2014 01:19 PM ET (US) I'd go with the cheaper marina as long as it has floating docks, bathrooms, a fish cleaning station (if you're a fisherperson), and fresh water at the slip. For lines and fenders, I like 3/8" x 15' BRAIDED lines (they absorb shock better) and Taylor fenders 4-6" diameter, the larger size if the boat is subjected to wakes at the slip. As far as bottom paint goes, use ablative (I like Micron Extra with Biolux to prevent slime). Use a different color paint on your first coat than subsequent coats. This way you can see when it starts to wear thin and just re-apply on the high wear areas like the keel and chines. It prevents the paint building up to 1/16" thick in one area and nearly nothing in others after a few years. PS- ablative paint maintains its effectiveness as it wears away. You can really put it on anytime you like. I tried Petit Hydrocoat a couple years ago and end up going back to Interlux Micron with Biolux because I had slime build up on the bottom with the Hydrocoat.
macfam	posted 11-01-2014 09:38 PM ET (US) Just an update on Pettit Hydrocoat: This year, on both boats, 13' Super Sport and the 28, I used the NEW Hydrocoat ECO, water-based copper-free, anti-fouling. It is far superior to the original Hydrocoat, or Hydrocoat SR. The firm that hauls the 28' claimed that the hull was the cleanest hull they had ever seen. Truly remarkable. From Memorial Day until Halloween, and there was virtually nothing, including slime on either hull. The Power washer really was unnecessary. Although, I did use it to simply spray to remove any salt that dried on the hull. Being water-based, it easy on, and easy clean-up with soap and water. Being copper-free, it can even be used on metals, with no electrolysis or promotion of corrosion. Hydrocoat ECO can be used over most other bottom paints. This is my choice from now on.