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New Owner of 1994 OUTRAGE 21
|Author||Topic: New Owner of 1994 OUTRAGE 21|
posted 03-05-2015 07:39 PM ET (US)
I am new to this forum and the new owner of a 1994 OUTRAGE 21. The boat has been sitting for about three years under cover and seems to have been well cared for over the years. Everything [except the Yamaha outboard engine] seems to work as it should: lights, bilge pump, VHF, trim tabs, horn, etc. Gel coat still shines and all fiber glass looks pretty good. There are some fine or spider cracks here and there, mostly on the deck and gunwales. I haven't found anything too alarming so far. Going to give her a good once over with better weather. I will be pulling the [fuel tank level] sending unit to remove old fuel, clean the tank, and inspect the tank, best I can, and then I will replace the seal under the sending unit, install new fuel hoses, and install a new RACOR filter as well.
I will also be going over rigging, wiring, switches, pumps for wash down, etc., to make sure all works as it should.
I will be replacing the access covers and re-caulking, too. What type of access covers would you all recommend?
I would like to see a hull diagram or some images of the inner hull under the deck.I am trying to get a better idea how water is channeled around the fuel tank and into the bilge, if it comes in through the access holes in the deck. If water gets in the hole for the rigging in the transom area just above the motor well where is it going?
The fish boxes look to be well-insulated and channeled. How well do they work? Does water on the deck get into them?
Also noticed there are two drains; one through the hull and another into the transom area. Where is this water going?
I don't like not being able to see what's going on down there! Should I be worried?
I'm gonna have the Yamaha 225-HP outboard engine re-built until I can afford newer. I will be using her to fish the Chesapeake and tributaries with the occasional weekend cruise.
I noticed the channeled deck with the big scuppers, and it looks like it should shed water well. Will she handle blue water in average East Coast condition?
I'm excited to get her cleaned up and back on the water. I want to learn all I can about this boat Any info, suggestions, advice, known problems, etc. will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
posted 03-05-2015 08:15 PM ET (US)
Contact Chuck Bennett at Boston Whaler Customer Service in Edgewater, Florida, or one of his fine colleagues there at the Boston Whaler factory, and you can get an electronic copy of any information they have about the hull. Usually they have a diagram that shows internal reinforcements, which is called a wood locating diagram.
posted 03-05-2015 10:37 PM ET (US)
You have a very good hull design [that weighs] roughly 2,700-lbs dry. I own [a 1994 Outrage 19] which does not have any [in-hull or in-deck] fish boxes. My friend has a Dauntless 20 with similar fish boxes, and they do fill up with rainwater. I would do all I could to retrofit a system that wouldn't allow in rainwater or general deck water. As for the third scupper, mine drains into the open back well and then out the [stern]. I'm guessing your [scupper] drains into the bilge with an automatic bilge system. Those typically [fail]--something to keep in mind. Again, you have an awesome boat. I actually wish I had yours, and with a big 300-HP Yamaha or E-TEC.
posted 03-06-2015 11:21 AM ET (US)
Congratulations! I have owned my 1995 21 Outrage for 20 1/2 years (since Oct 1994) and have used it extensively here in the west coast. I have been out in all kinds of conditions including small craft advisories and twice in a verified gale. I say all of this before I say something people will challenge me on. I have yet to take blue water over the bow. If I interpret the term correctly, that means to spear into a wave such that the bow temporarily digs under water so that a gush of water comes into the boat. For some reason, it has never happened. I think the reason is the amazing buoyancy and design of the bow. What I do find is that when I go perpendicular to the wind or the wind is quartering on the port side, and the wind is maybe 12kts or greater, I take on spray shooting to the port side from the chine on occasion. The stern gets sprayed a lot in those conditions. You will find that any water on the deck drains into the channels under the gunwales, and out the scuppers. The scupper in the stern is the bait tank outflow. If you pull the corks in the fish holds, seawater will fill in but no higher that a couple inches below the deck. It is a fun stunt to show your guest you pulling the corks, seeing blue ocean through the holes and you not sinking like in comedy movies. However, if you are 4 people fishing, the corks are out, full fuel and bait, water will flood in through the scuppers and the rear 3-4 feet of the cockpit can be under 1/2 - 1 inch of water. If you turn on the macerator pump for the fish holds, you will stay above the water. The fish holds don't keep ice for very long. You would have to get a ton of ice or that won't really work well.
I too have the little cracks. Have been inspected and no structural issues. Make sure the rub rail is firmly affixed. I would recommend replacing the oil sender. That clogs and I don't know how the old owner maintained that. Make sure the wiring isn't bundled with fuel lines.
Seriously, nothing happens to this boat.
Agree with jimh, make friends with Chuck Bennett and get a list of parts from him.
Good luck and congrats.
posted 03-06-2015 12:22 PM ET (US)
Sorry for the multiple posts. I wanted to add that any water that goes onto the cockpit deck potentially goes into the fish holds. That is part of the reason why ice doesn't last in the fish holds. If you use raw water to wash down fish-mess, that goes in the holds and melts ice. Be careful to open the holds and clear the gutter at the top. It was designed for cockpit water to go through the gutter and out the scupper. In reality, anything can get through the crack between the fish hold door and the deck and cause water to go into the hold.
Another thing, depending on where you store your boat and how well the cover doesn't let birds in, there are compartments (caves) at the rear of the boat under the gunwales far to the stern on each side. Birds like to nest in there. I store my fenders in there to prevent the birds from nesting.
One day, I noticed my compass void of any fluids. All drained into the electronics compartment. Not one drop into the inside of the center console. I'm not sure if there is a reasonable life for these compasses but I would make sure any electronics are not directly underneath.
I have found the screws for the bow rail to strip of unscrew. I had a professional re-do all of that. Wise investment.
If you have the factory bow cushion, there are four snaps in the front. The male part of the snap is a screw directly into the fiberglass that you can see sticking into the anchor locker. I would recommend replacing the 4 snaps with ones that you can use with washers or some other kind of backing plate.
Check the nav lights. I replaced mine with LED lights that work very well. I found the stock Perko white rear-facing light that is on top of the starboard gunwale to be iffy. I replaced that with a LED white 360 degree light mounted to the top of the center console rail.
posted 03-06-2015 02:17 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the information and advice. I will be contacting Whaler. Don't know why I didn't think about that. Thanks for the tip on the bilge [pump always failing]. It does look a little crusty, do you have any recommendations on a good brand and model to replace it? Is there anything that you all think I should give special attention to while looking her over? I'm handy enough to do much of the work myself, I just need some expert advice from anyone willing to offer it.
posted 03-07-2015 12:11 PM ET (US)
Thanks msirof2001 for all the good feed back. Was really hesitant on getting the boat not being able to sea trial it, but seems I got a good one!
Was thinking of installing a gasket around the fish holds that will stop most of the water? Any ideas, what were you thinking mkelly? Really want to be able to use them
Thanks for the heads up on the oil sender, definitely don't want any of those kind of problems. Previous owner replaced the navigation lights with LED's so I don't have to worry with that.
posted 03-07-2015 07:07 PM ET (US)
I have no use for the fish holds and anything that takes on water is useless for storage. It really could only be used actual fish and 95% of my boat use doesn't have a fish in the well so if I had your boat, I would seal the fish boxes permanently, or semi-permanently. Any nice salmon I catch could be put on ice in the cooler and we usually race home if there's a salmon to go on the grill anyway.
Plug the thru hull portals on both sides, inside and out with a nice stainless plug. Clean the wells out thoroughly and get a good marine grade caulk. Bead, heavy bead, in the lip the door sits in and close and let cure a day or so. Then seal with the hatches closed. If you're going to be doing a fuel tank retro, you clearly have Whaler deck plans to seal everything up and I would bail on those fish boxes, we never never use them and actually battle them with water getting in. Seal up and it's complete reversible with a utility blade if you don't see it working for you
West Marine has good 3M caulking and sealant products and they could help you out or anyone on this site is pretty savvy as well. My 19' Whaler and I had to plug the starboard rear well when I had my trolling motor mounted, water would get in. Any Whaler self bailing designs are fantastic but they pushed the boundries a bit. Think of how you would ultimately like the boat to perform and go for it
posted 03-08-2015 08:48 AM ET (US)
I disagree with the suggestion to seal up all the deck hatches that cover deck openings. Unless you plan to mostly operate the boat in conditions where a great deal of seawater is going to be coming into the cockpit, the accumulation of water in the deck holds or live wells is likely to be only a bit of a nuisance. If the boat sits uncovered in heavy rains, they can collect significant water. On my Boston Whaler boat there is a stern live well. The hatch is not sealed in any way. If it rains for hours and hours, the well will collect water. I have a small sump pump and float switch in the well, and it evacuates the water.
Poorly sealing deck hatches are the norm on older Boston Whaler boats. I believe this problem was remedied only fairly recently, say in c.2005 and newer designs.
posted 03-08-2015 06:39 PM ET (US)
I would never permanently seal my wet storage area either. Wet storage can be very valuable. I use my live well as a beverage and food cooler on long trips, it works great. The foam lined fiberglass makes a great cooler, and the bilge pump removes excess water as the ice melts.
My forward bilge holds items like a spare anchor and bumpers that will not be hurt by getting wet
posted 03-09-2015 06:52 PM ET (US)
Guss55, About your question, "Also noticed there are two drains; one through the hull and another into the transom area. Where is this water going?"
The drains at the bottom go out to the sea. In the rear of the fish holds, those drains go into large white hoses that form a T. Goes through a macerator which for me has lasted 20+ years. From there, it goes out through a Perko on the port side of the hull. If you lift the large square deck-plate directly in front of the engine, you'll see this very clearly.
I was thinking of what you were saying about trying to keep water out of the fish holds. I understand Mkelley wanting to seal them but I probably wouldn't. For one thing, it will kill your resale value. You would have to seal the drains and everything. Or water could come in through the macerator exit, through the bottom plugs, etc., and you wouldn't have top access. There are a lot of things that can go in the holds. Used, wet wetsuits, towels, fenders... Lots of things, including fish. On a 21 Outrage, you can have 5-6 30lb Yellowfin Tuna per side.
I was looking at the Yeti Cooler or those orange Plano tackleboxes, both of which have rubber-liner seals to prevent water from getting in. I think that, maybe attached to the inner lid of the fish hold might do the trick for the most part. When you open the hold, there is a gutter and a lip before the drop into the hold. Line it up with the top of the lip. But here is the thing. The law of leverage. On the lip closest to the hinges, make sure the rubber isn't thick enough to put a lot of upward pressure on the screws of the hinges. You want it to seal but you certainly don't want the pressure on screws. There is probably some magic width. I don't think you'll be 100% dry but I think something like a rubber seal will get you a lot closer than the factory configuration.
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