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Author Topic:   15-foot Hull Lacks Mooring Cleats

cleep1700 posted 05-03-2015 10:14 PM ET (US)
Took my new to me 15' Whaler out today for the first time. Where on the boat do you [fasten] to be used to tie up to a dock? I have no cleats anywhere. Cleep in windy Kansas
jimh posted 05-04-2015 09:25 AM ET (US)
In the bow cockpit of the 15-foot hull here is a Norman Pin. The Norman pin can be used to belay a line. In the bow cockpit there is also an Eye Nut that terminates the rod connected to the Towing Eye on the stem. Either of these can be used for attaching mooring lines in the bow.
At the transom on the inboard side there are two lifting eyes, one Port and one Starboard. Mooring lines can be attached to these eyes.
All of the eyes I mention above are extremely strong, and they are through-bolted to the hull. They make extremely strong attachment points for mooring lines.
jimh posted 05-04-2015 09:31 AM ET (US)
On my 1976 Boston Whaler SPORT 15 there were two small cleats on the top of the gunwales. You can see the cleats in an illustration in my article at
http://continuouswave.com/sail-logs/up1998/
In that same illustration, you can see a line made fast to the Norman Pin.
Those cleats were not fastened into any embedded material, and I would not trust them to have sufficient strength to hold a mooring line under any sort of extreme tension. Our boat was never moored at a dock for more than short periods and we were always close by. If I were to leave the boat unattended for long periods I would only use the through-bolted eyes for attachment of mooring lines. The cleats were near the helm seat, and were handy for the helmsman to handle a line when coming to dock.
cleep1700 posted 05-04-2015 09:39 PM ET (US)
Thanks, Jim. I am learning more and more about my boat from experience and reading posts in the and another forum. Wondered what that pin was called in the bow.
jimh posted 05-04-2015 09:44 AM ET (US)
My memory is a bit hazy, but I think I later moved the cleats to the inwale near the stern, where there was some embedded wood reinforcement that gave a much better attachment point. See Callout "J" in the wood locating diagram that is linked from the REFERENCE article on the 15-foot hull.
http://continuouswave.com/maintenance-logs/bimini/graphics/ woodLocateDiagram15Whaler.jpeg
jimh posted 05-04-2015 09:56 AM ET (US)
My memory is getting clearer. I found this image showing the final position of the added stern cleats:
jimh posted 05-04-2015 10:02 AM ET (US)
I am now wondering if the cleats were on the midship location when I bought the boat. The previous owner might have installed them.
By the way, take this advice: never sell your 15-foot Boston Whaler. I made the mistake of selling mine--I had three boats at the time. The new owner and I now work at the same place, and I see him often. He loves the 15-footer, but, like I found, it got to be a bit small over time. He now has a couple of larger boats, and says he might sell the 15-footer. I always tell him to give me first chance to buy it back. The 15-foot Boston Whaler is a great small boat.
andygere posted 05-04-2015 11:38 AM ET (US)
When I had a 13 foot Whaler, I used the bow norman pin to secure the bow line, and made up a stern line with a stainless steel swivel eye snap hook spliced into one end. That line could be quickly clipped to the stern lifting eye on either side of the boat to secure it to a dock. To secure fenders, I ran a rope around each thwart and tied it off with two half hitches, and the other end secured to the fender. This method was simple and no holes needed to be drilled.
Here is a link to the type of snap hook I used.
http:/ / www. uscargocontrol. com/ Rigging-Supplies-Hardware/ Large-Swiv el-Eye-Snap-Hook-Stainless-Steel-316/ Large-Swivel-Eye-Snap-Hook-SS-T316 -4-5-8-Length?gclid=CjwKEAjwsZyqBRCT1aq6qcD53DQSJACcen4CwSrZNzeauI9Mp5yC 4kzHnkhQS6HI2m2JzS_KeX71TBoCnJTw_wcB
This style of fender, often called Bass Boat Fenders, work quite well with the low gunwales of these smaller Whaler skiffs.
http://www.basspro.com/ Taylor-Made-Inflatable-Bass-Boat-and-Freeboard-Fenders/product/994/
porthole2 posted 05-04-2015 12:14 PM ET (US)
I used pre made lines that had stainless locking carabiners with the lines's splice going through the opening. These were left at the dock.
For travel I used lines with a splice and just ran the splice through the lifting eye and put the running end through the splice.
Jeff posted 05-04-2015 02:47 PM ET (US)
Do not drill more holes into the hull to add cleats. As noted, Loop a line through the lifting eyes. There is one in the bow and two in the stern. I always kept my lines secured to those.
Stern:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 1976%20Newport%2052812/IMG_6321.jpg
Bow:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 1976%20Newport%2052812/DSC_9683.jpg
cleep1700 posted 05-04-2015 08:22 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm learning.
contender posted 05-04-2015 08:39 PM ET (US)
Jeff is 100% correct, Do Not Drill more holes in your whaler to put a cleats on. Purchase some good stainless snaps and use the lifting rings in the rear and the winch eye in the front of the boat for tying off. Also when you use the rear lifting rings attach the line to the outside of the eye, using the inside the rope/snap will dig into the fiberglass on top of the transom...Also using snaps allows you a quick disconnect in case of emergency....
cleep1700 posted 05-04-2015 09:28 PM ET (US)
Contender, I'm unclear what you mean by "Also when you use the rear lifting rings attach the line to the outside of the eye, using the inside the rope/snap will dig into the fiberglass on top of the transom."
Cleep in windy Kansas
contender posted 05-05-2015 05:24 PM ET (US)
the lifting ring has two connecting points, One on the inside of the hull, Two on the outside of the hull. So when you use a shackel, or some other type of connector on the end of your dock lines, use the connection on the outside of the hull, so the connection (shackel) does not rub on the fiberglass...
Eddie M posted 05-05-2015 06:50 PM ET (US)
No need to drill. In fact a Boston Whaler's worst enemy is the drill. Use your norman pin in the bow and the inside lifting eye in the stern. A bowline knot is simple to use on the stern and you can adjust the mooring from the dock.
jimh posted 05-05-2015 07:45 PM ET (US)
Decide for yourself if you want to add a cleat. Never worry about drilling a hole in a Boston Whaler boat--but give careful consideration to the location before your drill. Drill the hole properly, in the correct place, and use a proper fastener. The guy that has never drilled a hole in his Boston Whaler boat is the guy that has never added anything to it.
Binkster posted 05-06-2015 04:31 PM ET (US)
I agree with jimh. A Whaler with no additions, is a boring and not useful hull. Additions like cleats, compasses, fishfinders, transducers, boarding ladders, etc. make the boat more civilized. Trick is, it must be done in a professional manner, many are not.
rich
Eddie M posted 05-06-2015 06:01 PM ET (US)
Decide for yourself. That a reasonable recommendation. You drill a hole it never goes away. Equipment changes and usually so does the mounting holes. Cleats included.
contender posted 05-08-2015 03:39 PM ET (US)
Bink, I can agree with you on some additions (electronics, compass rod holders) to a whaler (and like you have stated... when done correctly) But adding a cleat to a 15' whaler, there is just no reason to do so.
jimh posted 05-08-2015 10:44 PM ET (US)
Nonsense. Add a cleat or anything else you like. You don't need to get permission. If cleats weren't necessary, why does practically every boat have cleats?

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Author	Topic: 15-foot Hull Lacks Mooring Cleats
cleep1700	posted 05-03-2015 10:14 PM ET (US) Took my new to me 15' Whaler out today for the first time. Where on the boat do you [fasten] to be used to tie up to a dock? I have no cleats anywhere. Cleep in windy Kansas
jimh	posted 05-04-2015 09:25 AM ET (US) In the bow cockpit of the 15-foot hull here is a Norman Pin. The Norman pin can be used to belay a line. In the bow cockpit there is also an Eye Nut that terminates the rod connected to the Towing Eye on the stem. Either of these can be used for attaching mooring lines in the bow. At the transom on the inboard side there are two lifting eyes, one Port and one Starboard. Mooring lines can be attached to these eyes. All of the eyes I mention above are extremely strong, and they are through-bolted to the hull. They make extremely strong attachment points for mooring lines.
jimh	posted 05-04-2015 09:31 AM ET (US) On my 1976 Boston Whaler SPORT 15 there were two small cleats on the top of the gunwales. You can see the cleats in an illustration in my article at http://continuouswave.com/sail-logs/up1998/ In that same illustration, you can see a line made fast to the Norman Pin. Those cleats were not fastened into any embedded material, and I would not trust them to have sufficient strength to hold a mooring line under any sort of extreme tension. Our boat was never moored at a dock for more than short periods and we were always close by. If I were to leave the boat unattended for long periods I would only use the through-bolted eyes for attachment of mooring lines. The cleats were near the helm seat, and were handy for the helmsman to handle a line when coming to dock.
cleep1700	posted 05-04-2015 09:39 PM ET (US) Thanks, Jim. I am learning more and more about my boat from experience and reading posts in the and another forum. Wondered what that pin was called in the bow.
jimh	posted 05-04-2015 09:44 AM ET (US) My memory is a bit hazy, but I think I later moved the cleats to the inwale near the stern, where there was some embedded wood reinforcement that gave a much better attachment point. See Callout "J" in the wood locating diagram that is linked from the REFERENCE article on the 15-foot hull. http://continuouswave.com/maintenance-logs/bimini/graphics/ woodLocateDiagram15Whaler.jpeg
jimh	posted 05-04-2015 09:56 AM ET (US) My memory is getting clearer. I found this image showing the final position of the added stern cleats:
jimh	posted 05-04-2015 10:02 AM ET (US) I am now wondering if the cleats were on the midship location when I bought the boat. The previous owner might have installed them. By the way, take this advice: never sell your 15-foot Boston Whaler. I made the mistake of selling mine--I had three boats at the time. The new owner and I now work at the same place, and I see him often. He loves the 15-footer, but, like I found, it got to be a bit small over time. He now has a couple of larger boats, and says he might sell the 15-footer. I always tell him to give me first chance to buy it back. The 15-foot Boston Whaler is a great small boat.
andygere	posted 05-04-2015 11:38 AM ET (US) When I had a 13 foot Whaler, I used the bow norman pin to secure the bow line, and made up a stern line with a stainless steel swivel eye snap hook spliced into one end. That line could be quickly clipped to the stern lifting eye on either side of the boat to secure it to a dock. To secure fenders, I ran a rope around each thwart and tied it off with two half hitches, and the other end secured to the fender. This method was simple and no holes needed to be drilled. Here is a link to the type of snap hook I used. http:/ / www. uscargocontrol. com/ Rigging-Supplies-Hardware/ Large-Swiv el-Eye-Snap-Hook-Stainless-Steel-316/ Large-Swivel-Eye-Snap-Hook-SS-T316 -4-5-8-Length?gclid=CjwKEAjwsZyqBRCT1aq6qcD53DQSJACcen4CwSrZNzeauI9Mp5yC 4kzHnkhQS6HI2m2JzS_KeX71TBoCnJTw_wcB This style of fender, often called Bass Boat Fenders, work quite well with the low gunwales of these smaller Whaler skiffs. http://www.basspro.com/ Taylor-Made-Inflatable-Bass-Boat-and-Freeboard-Fenders/product/994/
porthole2	posted 05-04-2015 12:14 PM ET (US) I used pre made lines that had stainless locking carabiners with the lines's splice going through the opening. These were left at the dock. For travel I used lines with a splice and just ran the splice through the lifting eye and put the running end through the splice.
Jeff	posted 05-04-2015 02:47 PM ET (US) Do not drill more holes into the hull to add cleats. As noted, Loop a line through the lifting eyes. There is one in the bow and two in the stern. I always kept my lines secured to those. Stern: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 1976%20Newport%2052812/IMG_6321.jpg Bow: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 1976%20Newport%2052812/DSC_9683.jpg
cleep1700	posted 05-04-2015 08:22 PM ET (US) Thanks for the suggestions. I'm learning.
contender	posted 05-04-2015 08:39 PM ET (US) Jeff is 100% correct, Do Not Drill more holes in your whaler to put a cleats on. Purchase some good stainless snaps and use the lifting rings in the rear and the winch eye in the front of the boat for tying off. Also when you use the rear lifting rings attach the line to the outside of the eye, using the inside the rope/snap will dig into the fiberglass on top of the transom...Also using snaps allows you a quick disconnect in case of emergency....
cleep1700	posted 05-04-2015 09:28 PM ET (US) Contender, I'm unclear what you mean by "Also when you use the rear lifting rings attach the line to the outside of the eye, using the inside the rope/snap will dig into the fiberglass on top of the transom." Cleep in windy Kansas
contender	posted 05-05-2015 05:24 PM ET (US) the lifting ring has two connecting points, One on the inside of the hull, Two on the outside of the hull. So when you use a shackel, or some other type of connector on the end of your dock lines, use the connection on the outside of the hull, so the connection (shackel) does not rub on the fiberglass...
Eddie M	posted 05-05-2015 06:50 PM ET (US) No need to drill. In fact a Boston Whaler's worst enemy is the drill. Use your norman pin in the bow and the inside lifting eye in the stern. A bowline knot is simple to use on the stern and you can adjust the mooring from the dock.
jimh	posted 05-05-2015 07:45 PM ET (US) Decide for yourself if you want to add a cleat. Never worry about drilling a hole in a Boston Whaler boat--but give careful consideration to the location before your drill. Drill the hole properly, in the correct place, and use a proper fastener. The guy that has never drilled a hole in his Boston Whaler boat is the guy that has never added anything to it.
Binkster	posted 05-06-2015 04:31 PM ET (US) I agree with jimh. A Whaler with no additions, is a boring and not useful hull. Additions like cleats, compasses, fishfinders, transducers, boarding ladders, etc. make the boat more civilized. Trick is, it must be done in a professional manner, many are not. rich
Eddie M	posted 05-06-2015 06:01 PM ET (US) Decide for yourself. That a reasonable recommendation. You drill a hole it never goes away. Equipment changes and usually so does the mounting holes. Cleats included.
contender	posted 05-08-2015 03:39 PM ET (US) Bink, I can agree with you on some additions (electronics, compass rod holders) to a whaler (and like you have stated... when done correctly) But adding a cleat to a 15' whaler, there is just no reason to do so.
jimh	posted 05-08-2015 10:44 PM ET (US) Nonsense. Add a cleat or anything else you like. You don't need to get permission. If cleats weren't necessary, why does practically every boat have cleats?