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| Author | Topic: Outrage: Sterndrive and Outboard |
| contender |
Need some help: what is the difference between an outboard and an [sterndrive] on the 1974 to 1980 Outrage? Is it just the cut-out for the sterndrive and the engine compartment? Or is the design of the transom totally different? Thanks. [Are there] any pictures [showing a sterndrive boat compared to an outboard boat]? |
| sraab928 |
On the 19-foot model--the only one in that year range that was powered with either a sterndrive or outboard that I am aware--one of the differences is the outboard powered version has an in-floor fuel tank. The sterndrive model had saddle tanks. The transom area and floor at the back is different as well, but I am not sure how to explain it. Here is a outboard powered model that I restored. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sraab928/library/ 1973%20Boston%20Whaler%2019%20Outrage Here is a sterndrive powered model that I owned as well. Hope this helps. |
| jimh |
SRAAB'--thanks for providing the very nice collection of images. In the images, I see that the stern drive model appears to have a different deck laminated section, with a raised portion forming a barrier around the engine mount. Regarding use of a sterndrive on a Boston Whaler, several years ago while attending a Boston Whaler sponsored rendezvous event in northern Michigan, Dennis Tilden, who has been a Boston Whaler employee for decades and started in Boston with them ages ago, told me an interesting story. Because he worked at Whaler, he was able to buy a prototype hull that Whaler had been using for testing and would not sell to the public. He then modified it, working after normal hours and in the factory shop area, to use a sterndrive instead of an outboard. If my recollection is true, I believe he told me that his modification was the first use of a sterndrive in a Boston Whaler. The bosses like the outcome and decided to make it an option. That's the story, as best as I can recall. |
| Powergroove803 |
SRAAB, thanks for the pics, question about the gas tank cavity, I see you did not pour foam back in it(I didn't see that you did) did you seal the cavity lid to keep water out or do you not mind that water gets in. I have my tank out currently and do not plan on foaming in back in, but the water in the cavity bothers me and my engine. I had a leaking vent hose and got water in my tank and caused my brand new Suzuki to die. this was with a water separator, just too much water. I know there is a relief drain in the rear starboard side but it is located more at the top of the cavity so water stands in the cavity around the tank. I have now drilled another hole through the rear of the cavity which empties into the old live well as a relief for the water in the cavity. I think it would be hard to seal that lid but if anyone has any ideas... JimH/Contender, sorry for highjacking this thread but I wanted to make sure SRAAB saw my question, feel free to move as needed |
| contender |
Power: I never get mad or care when anyone chimes in about the subject matter, Any input (bad or good, simple or difficult) is input. It is up to the person to make the choice which is the best road for him/her to travel. I like all input/ideas sometimes it gives me another idea to solve a problem or creat a new answer for the question. There is just to much info and people with experiance out there for one person to know it all...Take care |
| sraab928 |
I did not foam my tank back in - I created a sump in the rear of the cavity and routed some hoses into there so that I could pump any water out that will eventually find its way in there. I placed the tank on some rubber strips so it was not sitting directly on the fiberglass. I also created wedges that went down the sides of the tank to keep it steady in the cavity. I did seal the hatch but there is just no way to ensure that cavity stays dry. sump can be seen here... Sorry I did not picture the rest of the process. |
| contender |
Replacing a fuel tank under the floor I have found two things to do to them, #1 coat the new tank with lineX, #2 I use the dri dec squares to place the tank on, you can make any configuration with these squares, this keeps the bottom of the tank dry and allows the water to run out. |
| sraab928 |
In these old 19's you need to give the water a place to go - there is no drain at all. If water gets in there (which it will) its just going to sit there around the tank. |
| contender |
sraab928, Did you make access to this low spot you built in? Also what about just putting a drain tube (with a plug) through the hull on the low spot... |
| sraab928 |
I wish I took pictures - I routed tubing from the low spot and plumbed in fittings into the drain area (the one that the rigging runs to) - I then bought a small utility pump and ever once in a while would hook up and pull any excess water out. You could run a drain out the bottom but the only access you would have would be from the bottom of the boat as the tank is covering it. You could do what powergroove referenced and run a drain tube back to the fish box and put the plug there - that might work - Its been a while since I did this Im going from memory here. |
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