WTB: aluminum instrument panels for Montauk or Outrage

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Author Topic:   WTB: aluminum instrument panels for Montauk or Outrage

ratherwhalering posted 09-11-2012 06:49 PM ET (US)
Looking for a set of OEM aluminum instrument panels for Montauk or Outrage center console. Here's an example of the port side panel:
http://home.comcast.net/~tomwclark/IMG_2641.JPG
Re-posted without the express consent of Mr. Clark and totally devoid of any permission what-so-ever!

Tom W Clark posted 09-11-2012 06:58 PM ET (US)
I'll sue!
Rob -- Ya know, that same panel is sitting in my basement. I might have a few others too...
ratherwhalering posted 09-11-2012 07:02 PM ET (US)
I'm also considering taking the original panels down to my local vinyl design shop to have the border scrolling and instrument lettering re-created so I can simply repaint the originals and then overlay with the new scrolling/lettering. Has anyone else done this?
ratherwhalering posted 09-11-2012 07:03 PM ET (US)
MINE! Mine, mine....allllll mine!
lizard posted 09-12-2012 02:40 PM ET (US)
Rob- I heard that Janis @ Magic Brush, makes these vinyl overlays. I have not personally ordered one or confirmed this. I can vouch for her decal work as excellent and she is very easy to work with. (386) 736-1142. Let me know if she does, in fact make these and what the costs are, per panel.
L H G posted 09-12-2012 04:48 PM ET (US)
Doesn't Twin Cities sell those replacement panels?
ratherwhalering posted 09-12-2012 05:14 PM ET (US)
Thanks Liz, that's some good info. I'll check with Janice in the morning.
Larry, they do, but the pin striping is squared off in the corners, not a radius like the original c.1987. I have a pair of replacement panels in my garage but would prefer the original pin stripe design.
lizard posted 09-13-2012 04:02 PM ET (US)
OK, Rob, I just got a callback from Janis. She has never done these before but is willing to give it a go. Her printer will not print white pinstripes, it will do light gray and that is fine for me. The issue is cut outs in the instrumentation for gauges, fuses, etc. that vary from boat to boat, even within the same model and model year.
I have offered to mail her my panels, as a template. If others are interested, please email me a good photo of each of your panels. I am going to compile a wish list for Janis and we will see what we can do from there.
Please let me know, via a post here, if you have sent me an email regarding this.
Tom W Clark posted 09-13-2012 06:04 PM ET (US)
Rob Schmidt and I are trying to organize a run of replacement panels from Whaler's current OEM of instrument panels that are true to the ones used before 1991 [made by LORCO Marine, no longer in business] with the correct silk screened pinstripe and all.
There will be both the Montauk Switch Panels as well as the blank Instrument Panels used on both Montauks and Outrages including Super Consoles, which used three of them horizontally.
We are awaiting pricing, feasibility and minimum quantity information from the manufacturer.
irishcreamer posted 09-20-2012 02:21 PM ET (US)
Tom / Rob,
Sent you guys email. My plate is yours for cost of shipping if you need it.
Best,
IC
Tom W Clark posted 09-20-2012 02:41 PM ET (US)
Thanks Sean. We are still awaiting pricing from the manufacturer. It was supposed to have been settled yesterday. I'll update this thread when I know more.
Blackduck posted 09-20-2012 04:20 PM ET (US)
Joe Kriz had a nice pair for sale -might still be available-
jstarzy posted 09-20-2012 11:00 PM ET (US)
Tom....
For background...Postings on Whaler Central from this summer quoted Twin Cities at $45 for the blank panel and $95 ish for the panel with switches, breakers and the 12v outlet, but both with the square screening.
I'm eager to find out what you come up with.
My 89's panels are discolored and I'm good with rewiring for new switches and breakers to modernize the dash a bit. I've already replaced the krinkled center black original vinyl with 3m matt vinyl I had leftover from a decal job. This worked beautifully.
Does anyone have recommendations on where to easily order the 30 amp main breaker and the plastic terminal strip box that it is mounted to the gunwale on 80's boats? The breaker can be found but not easily and not for under $30 and the box is harder to find. My breaker can't be used as a switch any longer and the sun has worn out the box.
Thank you.
Jim.
JaySul posted 09-21-2012 01:05 PM ET (US)
My 1978 V-20 console has dark plexiglas instrument panels which were obviously made by the previous owner to replace the originals. Reading what Tom said about the older consoles and vinyl backing covering the gelcoat, I'm not sure what they looked like originally and would like to get it back to original. Does anyone have a picture of what it should look like?
Thanks,
Jay
L H G posted 09-21-2012 02:43 PM ET (US)
See my photo link above for access to photos of an all original vintage 1978 console. I've been trashed for my choice of black vinyl, so you can use the other 3M material being recommended here.
These consoles originally came with 1/4" teak plywood for the instrument/switch panels. I replaced mine with 3/8" solid teak. Everything else is original, but varnished by me.
lizard posted 09-21-2012 11:05 PM ET (US)
My understanding, and please correct me if I am wrong, is that the panels Twin Cities supplies are the newer, squared pinstripe corners instead of the radius ones. I am interested in the radius ones.
ratherwhalering posted 09-25-2012 04:48 PM ET (US)
Hi folks,
Tom and I have been working with Ultra Panel Marine, and I am still waiting for feasibility and pricing. The panels will (hopefully) be exact duplicates of the Montauk/Outrage originals. It is taking a little longer than we thought due to pricing difficulties (the panels are silkscreened and the mounting/fuse/switch/buss bar holes will be machined by UPM. Tom has been kind enough to make an exact diagram of the original panels, and I have been following up with Ultra Panel Marine, as recently as this afternoon. As soon as we get an answer, we'll let ya know.
--Rob--
lizard posted 09-25-2012 08:19 PM ET (US)
Rob-
What is the plan for people who have gauges in the instrument panels? I haven't been down to my slip lately, will get a picture and shoot you an email, with dimensions.
irishcreamer posted 09-25-2012 10:18 PM ET (US)
Tom W Clark - I mailed you my old aluminum panel today. Good luck with your project and thanks for all the advice!!
Boat is out of commission temporarily with flat tire on trailer and broken bow rail...I hear that the boat can take more than the man but maybe I am proving to be the exception to that rule...
Good luck with your project.
IC
ratherwhalering posted 09-26-2012 03:19 PM ET (US)
Liz, the solution is a hole saw bit :-) Everyone's gauge holes are different, and individual to the boat. The panels are planned to be blanks, (meaning no instrument cut-outs) with just the OEM pinstripe on both. On the starboard panel there will be the original labeling (ie "5 Amp" and "Axcesaries") mounting holes, fuse/switch holes, and buss bar mounting holes.

P.S. Yes, that was a joke...Tom will spell check prior to production.
Tom W Clark posted 09-26-2012 03:25 PM ET (US)
Thanks Sean.
All the panels supplied by Whaler on the classics were without any holes for instruments. It is the responsibility of the dealer or installer to cut wherever holes are needed for whatever instruments or gauges are desired in whatever position is deemed best.
lizard posted 09-26-2012 07:26 PM ET (US)
Got it. Thanks for the reply. The only hole saws that I have ever used were for wood. Does anyone have a good recommendation for cutting aluminum? I want to use the right tool, not the cheapest one. Thanks.
KismetLRC posted 09-26-2012 10:02 PM ET (US)
I'm in for a set for a classic '85 Montauk.
Let us know when pricing is determined.
Thanks guys!
montauk madness posted 09-27-2012 04:21 PM ET (US)
I would like a set too for my 1989 Outrage 20.
-Jeff
DVollrath posted 09-27-2012 05:05 PM ET (US)
Lizard,
To cut all of the holes in the aluminum panels I recently constructed, I used a single fluke aluminum cutting bit in my router at low speed, with a bushing following a wood template. It leaves a very smooth wall, with no tear-out of the powdercoat.
I didn't try a hole-saw directly on the Al, but I would bet a bi-metal version would work just fine too. I just had all of the other stuff on hand.
Dennis
lizard posted 09-28-2012 11:33 PM ET (US)
Dennis- you have my email, any chance you could send me a photo and/or a link to the product (the fluke bit)? Thanks!
tmann45 posted 09-29-2012 11:57 AM ET (US)
Dennis, please post info on single fluke router bit as I do some aluminum fabrication also.
And when you say "router at slow speed", do you mean variable speed router at low RPM?
DVollrath posted 09-29-2012 02:47 PM ET (US)
Lizard & Tmann,
I will post info about the bit when I get home & can dig it up. It is a 1/4" solid carbide bit. The router speed is perhaps 10K rpm, the slowest setting on my variable speed router.
This will certainly not be the cheapest way to go if you do not already possess the tools. It is also not clear it is the "best", as hole saws are used by most people with acceptable results. I had these tools, and I tend to over-engineer things by nature sometimes.
Dennis

tobyport posted 09-30-2012 05:00 PM ET (US)
I would like to purchase two to four panels, subject to pricing. Thank you for your efforts! Toby
DVollrath posted 10-02-2012 11:15 AM ET (US)
I finally got home late last night from Orcas, after installing some shiny new Mills canvas on my Montauk and catching a final limit of crabs :( Here is the information regarding the router bit I used for routing holes in aluminum panels.
The bits are from American Carbide Inc:
www.american-carbide.com
PN 145551
.250"x.750" LOC-1FL
The router I used was a PC 7539 VS router, set to its lowest speed of 10K RPM. I also used aluminum cutting fluid as a lubricant, with a vacuum hose positioned near by to catch as many shavings as possible.
Having a bushing set is useful. Mine is from Rockler and it allows you to adjust hole sizes in 1/16" increments from the template dimension.
Dennis
prj posted 11-27-2012 05:19 PM ET (US)
Hey Rob and Tom, how is this effort coming along?
Spitti posted 11-27-2012 05:28 PM ET (US)
I would be in for 6 panels ,let me know.
Thanks,
Sal P
andygere posted 11-27-2012 06:49 PM ET (US)
You can do a good job of cutting holes in the panels with a fine tooth hole saw. These are commonly used by electricians and available at better tool and hardware stores. Be sure to protect the finish with masking tape before drilling, and carefully lay out your guage arrangement and drill small pilot holes to guide the hole saw center bit. Burrs can be cleaned up with a sharp Stanley knife.
ratherwhalering posted 11-28-2012 05:12 PM ET (US)
Rather well. We have contacted a manufacturer and have a prototype. Tom had some issues with the lettering and scrolling, so it has been sent back for further modification. Stay tuned.
prj posted 11-28-2012 05:29 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the update, Rob.
-Patrick
Russ 13 posted 12-08-2012 02:45 PM ET (US)
Any update on the aluminum panel progress???
Thanks, Russ
ratherwhalering posted 12-13-2012 07:47 PM ET (US)
Not yet. They have to be exact duplicates, and we are having trouble duplicating the original black texture. While the flat black, smooth annodized aluminum is close, we're shooting for original.
Spitti posted 07-30-2013 07:55 PM ET (US)
Anyrhing ever hapen with this ?
prj posted 10-29-2013 04:47 PM ET (US)
Any update on this Tom or Rob?
Thanks,
Patrick

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Author	Topic: WTB: aluminum instrument panels for Montauk or Outrage
ratherwhalering	posted 09-11-2012 06:49 PM ET (US) Looking for a set of OEM aluminum instrument panels for Montauk or Outrage center console. Here's an example of the port side panel: http://home.comcast.net/~tomwclark/IMG_2641.JPG Re-posted without the express consent of Mr. Clark and totally devoid of any permission what-so-ever!
Tom W Clark	posted 09-11-2012 06:58 PM ET (US) I'll sue! Rob -- Ya know, that same panel is sitting in my basement. I might have a few others too...
ratherwhalering	posted 09-11-2012 07:02 PM ET (US) I'm also considering taking the original panels down to my local vinyl design shop to have the border scrolling and instrument lettering re-created so I can simply repaint the originals and then overlay with the new scrolling/lettering. Has anyone else done this?
ratherwhalering	posted 09-11-2012 07:03 PM ET (US) MINE! Mine, mine....allllll mine!
lizard	posted 09-12-2012 02:40 PM ET (US) Rob- I heard that Janis @ Magic Brush, makes these vinyl overlays. I have not personally ordered one or confirmed this. I can vouch for her decal work as excellent and she is very easy to work with. (386) 736-1142. Let me know if she does, in fact make these and what the costs are, per panel.
L H G	posted 09-12-2012 04:48 PM ET (US) Doesn't Twin Cities sell those replacement panels?
ratherwhalering	posted 09-12-2012 05:14 PM ET (US) Thanks Liz, that's some good info. I'll check with Janice in the morning. Larry, they do, but the pin striping is squared off in the corners, not a radius like the original c.1987. I have a pair of replacement panels in my garage but would prefer the original pin stripe design.
lizard	posted 09-13-2012 04:02 PM ET (US) OK, Rob, I just got a callback from Janis. She has never done these before but is willing to give it a go. Her printer will not print white pinstripes, it will do light gray and that is fine for me. The issue is cut outs in the instrumentation for gauges, fuses, etc. that vary from boat to boat, even within the same model and model year. I have offered to mail her my panels, as a template. If others are interested, please email me a good photo of each of your panels. I am going to compile a wish list for Janis and we will see what we can do from there. Please let me know, via a post here, if you have sent me an email regarding this.
Tom W Clark	posted 09-13-2012 06:04 PM ET (US) Rob Schmidt and I are trying to organize a run of replacement panels from Whaler's current OEM of instrument panels that are true to the ones used before 1991 [made by LORCO Marine, no longer in business] with the correct silk screened pinstripe and all. There will be both the Montauk Switch Panels as well as the blank Instrument Panels used on both Montauks and Outrages including Super Consoles, which used three of them horizontally. We are awaiting pricing, feasibility and minimum quantity information from the manufacturer.
irishcreamer	posted 09-20-2012 02:21 PM ET (US) Tom / Rob, Sent you guys email. My plate is yours for cost of shipping if you need it. Best, IC
Tom W Clark	posted 09-20-2012 02:41 PM ET (US) Thanks Sean. We are still awaiting pricing from the manufacturer. It was supposed to have been settled yesterday. I'll update this thread when I know more.
Blackduck	posted 09-20-2012 04:20 PM ET (US) Joe Kriz had a nice pair for sale -might still be available-
jstarzy	posted 09-20-2012 11:00 PM ET (US) Tom.... For background...Postings on Whaler Central from this summer quoted Twin Cities at $45 for the blank panel and $95 ish for the panel with switches, breakers and the 12v outlet, but both with the square screening. I'm eager to find out what you come up with. My 89's panels are discolored and I'm good with rewiring for new switches and breakers to modernize the dash a bit. I've already replaced the krinkled center black original vinyl with 3m matt vinyl I had leftover from a decal job. This worked beautifully. Does anyone have recommendations on where to easily order the 30 amp main breaker and the plastic terminal strip box that it is mounted to the gunwale on 80's boats? The breaker can be found but not easily and not for under $30 and the box is harder to find. My breaker can't be used as a switch any longer and the sun has worn out the box. Thank you. Jim.
JaySul	posted 09-21-2012 01:05 PM ET (US) My 1978 V-20 console has dark plexiglas instrument panels which were obviously made by the previous owner to replace the originals. Reading what Tom said about the older consoles and vinyl backing covering the gelcoat, I'm not sure what they looked like originally and would like to get it back to original. Does anyone have a picture of what it should look like? Thanks, Jay
L H G	posted 09-21-2012 02:43 PM ET (US) See my photo link above for access to photos of an all original vintage 1978 console. I've been trashed for my choice of black vinyl, so you can use the other 3M material being recommended here. These consoles originally came with 1/4" teak plywood for the instrument/switch panels. I replaced mine with 3/8" solid teak. Everything else is original, but varnished by me.
lizard	posted 09-21-2012 11:05 PM ET (US) My understanding, and please correct me if I am wrong, is that the panels Twin Cities supplies are the newer, squared pinstripe corners instead of the radius ones. I am interested in the radius ones.
ratherwhalering	posted 09-25-2012 04:48 PM ET (US) Hi folks, Tom and I have been working with Ultra Panel Marine, and I am still waiting for feasibility and pricing. The panels will (hopefully) be exact duplicates of the Montauk/Outrage originals. It is taking a little longer than we thought due to pricing difficulties (the panels are silkscreened and the mounting/fuse/switch/buss bar holes will be machined by UPM. Tom has been kind enough to make an exact diagram of the original panels, and I have been following up with Ultra Panel Marine, as recently as this afternoon. As soon as we get an answer, we'll let ya know. --Rob--
lizard	posted 09-25-2012 08:19 PM ET (US) Rob- What is the plan for people who have gauges in the instrument panels? I haven't been down to my slip lately, will get a picture and shoot you an email, with dimensions.
irishcreamer	posted 09-25-2012 10:18 PM ET (US) Tom W Clark - I mailed you my old aluminum panel today. Good luck with your project and thanks for all the advice!! Boat is out of commission temporarily with flat tire on trailer and broken bow rail...I hear that the boat can take more than the man but maybe I am proving to be the exception to that rule... Good luck with your project. IC
ratherwhalering	posted 09-26-2012 03:19 PM ET (US) Liz, the solution is a hole saw bit :-) Everyone's gauge holes are different, and individual to the boat. The panels are planned to be blanks, (meaning no instrument cut-outs) with just the OEM pinstripe on both. On the starboard panel there will be the original labeling (ie "5 Amp" and "Axcesaries") mounting holes, fuse/switch holes, and buss bar mounting holes. P.S. Yes, that was a joke...Tom will spell check prior to production.
Tom W Clark	posted 09-26-2012 03:25 PM ET (US) Thanks Sean. All the panels supplied by Whaler on the classics were without any holes for instruments. It is the responsibility of the dealer or installer to cut wherever holes are needed for whatever instruments or gauges are desired in whatever position is deemed best.
lizard	posted 09-26-2012 07:26 PM ET (US) Got it. Thanks for the reply. The only hole saws that I have ever used were for wood. Does anyone have a good recommendation for cutting aluminum? I want to use the right tool, not the cheapest one. Thanks.
KismetLRC	posted 09-26-2012 10:02 PM ET (US) I'm in for a set for a classic '85 Montauk. Let us know when pricing is determined. Thanks guys!
montauk madness	posted 09-27-2012 04:21 PM ET (US) I would like a set too for my 1989 Outrage 20. -Jeff
DVollrath	posted 09-27-2012 05:05 PM ET (US) Lizard, To cut all of the holes in the aluminum panels I recently constructed, I used a single fluke aluminum cutting bit in my router at low speed, with a bushing following a wood template. It leaves a very smooth wall, with no tear-out of the powdercoat. I didn't try a hole-saw directly on the Al, but I would bet a bi-metal version would work just fine too. I just had all of the other stuff on hand. Dennis
lizard	posted 09-28-2012 11:33 PM ET (US) Dennis- you have my email, any chance you could send me a photo and/or a link to the product (the fluke bit)? Thanks!
tmann45	posted 09-29-2012 11:57 AM ET (US) Dennis, please post info on single fluke router bit as I do some aluminum fabrication also. And when you say "router at slow speed", do you mean variable speed router at low RPM?
DVollrath	posted 09-29-2012 02:47 PM ET (US) Lizard & Tmann, I will post info about the bit when I get home & can dig it up. It is a 1/4" solid carbide bit. The router speed is perhaps 10K rpm, the slowest setting on my variable speed router. This will certainly not be the cheapest way to go if you do not already possess the tools. It is also not clear it is the "best", as hole saws are used by most people with acceptable results. I had these tools, and I tend to over-engineer things by nature sometimes. Dennis
tobyport	posted 09-30-2012 05:00 PM ET (US) I would like to purchase two to four panels, subject to pricing. Thank you for your efforts! Toby
DVollrath	posted 10-02-2012 11:15 AM ET (US) I finally got home late last night from Orcas, after installing some shiny new Mills canvas on my Montauk and catching a final limit of crabs :( Here is the information regarding the router bit I used for routing holes in aluminum panels. The bits are from American Carbide Inc: www.american-carbide.com PN 145551 .250"x.750" LOC-1FL The router I used was a PC 7539 VS router, set to its lowest speed of 10K RPM. I also used aluminum cutting fluid as a lubricant, with a vacuum hose positioned near by to catch as many shavings as possible. Having a bushing set is useful. Mine is from Rockler and it allows you to adjust hole sizes in 1/16" increments from the template dimension. Dennis
prj	posted 11-27-2012 05:19 PM ET (US) Hey Rob and Tom, how is this effort coming along?
Spitti	posted 11-27-2012 05:28 PM ET (US) I would be in for 6 panels ,let me know. Thanks, Sal P
andygere	posted 11-27-2012 06:49 PM ET (US) You can do a good job of cutting holes in the panels with a fine tooth hole saw. These are commonly used by electricians and available at better tool and hardware stores. Be sure to protect the finish with masking tape before drilling, and carefully lay out your guage arrangement and drill small pilot holes to guide the hole saw center bit. Burrs can be cleaned up with a sharp Stanley knife.
ratherwhalering	posted 11-28-2012 05:12 PM ET (US) Rather well. We have contacted a manufacturer and have a prototype. Tom had some issues with the lettering and scrolling, so it has been sent back for further modification. Stay tuned.
prj	posted 11-28-2012 05:29 PM ET (US) Thanks for the update, Rob. -Patrick
Russ 13	posted 12-08-2012 02:45 PM ET (US) Any update on the aluminum panel progress??? Thanks, Russ
ratherwhalering	posted 12-13-2012 07:47 PM ET (US) Not yet. They have to be exact duplicates, and we are having trouble duplicating the original black texture. While the flat black, smooth annodized aluminum is close, we're shooting for original.
Spitti	posted 07-30-2013 07:55 PM ET (US) Anyrhing ever hapen with this ?
prj	posted 10-29-2013 04:47 PM ET (US) Any update on this Tom or Rob? Thanks, Patrick