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Author Topic:   WTB Montauk bow eye and bolt/rod

kwik_wurk posted 02-13-2014 01:36 AM ET (US)
Hi. Looking for a bow eye (D) and the accompanying threaded bolt/rod for a classic Montauk.
Twincities is next if nothing pops up on a week or so.
I was also looking for some knowledge base or pictures of what to expect. -- There is only 1/4" of movement now, so I am likely filling then drilling. Is this what others have done?
Thank you.
Chuck Tribolet posted 02-14-2014 10:31 PM ET (US)
FWIW, the rod is just stainless threaded rod. You can get
it from McMaster.com.
Where's the movement? Is there something wrong with your
existing bow eye?
Chuck
Tom W Clark posted 02-15-2014 10:59 AM ET (US)
It depends on the year of the Montauk. A lot of the 16'-7" model had a chrome plated cast bronze bow eye with an integral cast threaded stud coming out of it. These are very hard to find.
Later on, Whaler substituted a cast bow eye that was tapped for a piece of stainless steel all-thread. I have one of these that is new if you want it.
kwik_wurk posted 02-15-2014 03:52 PM ET (US)
After years of being the buoy and towed by a bigger boat, I now have 1/4" movement in the thru bolt. So before another season I want to get it fixed so I don't end up with 1" movement and water ingress.
Montauk is an 83' with the three part assembly, interior lifting ring, thru bolt, and exterior bow eye (D).
Given my recent efforts of soaking and cheater bar, I am likely going to cut the existing bow eye off, as it seems rather solid. Is this expected?
And yes, Tom I would like the bow eye (D).
Tom W Clark posted 02-15-2014 04:09 PM ET (US)
Get what you have now off the boat first. I would expect it to come apart, though not without some effort. I have never had to cut one off before.
Loosteneing and tightening of the assembly is always done from the lifting eye inside the hull.
DO NOT let the bow eye spin when you are trying to unscrew everything. That is easier said than done, especially when you are really wrenching the lifting eye. It is best if you have a helper hold the bow eye secure and lean into the hull to help keep it from moving.
The Bow Eye has a pair of tits cast into it that bite into the fiberglass to help secure it in position, so if it is allowed to twist, the gel coat will chip out.
I have all three parts. The Bow Eye is chrome over brass and I paid Sue Lodel at Twin Cities $63 plus shipping
The 10-3/8" threaded part she sold me for $10 plus shipping
The cast and polished stainless steel lifting ring she sold me for $13 plus shipping.
You are welcome to any or all of them at those prices; I ended up salvaging the hardware of the Montauk I was working on at the time.

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Author	Topic: WTB Montauk bow eye and bolt/rod
kwik_wurk	posted 02-13-2014 01:36 AM ET (US) Hi. Looking for a bow eye (D) and the accompanying threaded bolt/rod for a classic Montauk. Twincities is next if nothing pops up on a week or so. I was also looking for some knowledge base or pictures of what to expect. -- There is only 1/4" of movement now, so I am likely filling then drilling. Is this what others have done? Thank you.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 02-14-2014 10:31 PM ET (US) FWIW, the rod is just stainless threaded rod. You can get it from McMaster.com. Where's the movement? Is there something wrong with your existing bow eye? Chuck
Tom W Clark	posted 02-15-2014 10:59 AM ET (US) It depends on the year of the Montauk. A lot of the 16'-7" model had a chrome plated cast bronze bow eye with an integral cast threaded stud coming out of it. These are very hard to find. Later on, Whaler substituted a cast bow eye that was tapped for a piece of stainless steel all-thread. I have one of these that is new if you want it.
kwik_wurk	posted 02-15-2014 03:52 PM ET (US) After years of being the buoy and towed by a bigger boat, I now have 1/4" movement in the thru bolt. So before another season I want to get it fixed so I don't end up with 1" movement and water ingress. Montauk is an 83' with the three part assembly, interior lifting ring, thru bolt, and exterior bow eye (D). Given my recent efforts of soaking and cheater bar, I am likely going to cut the existing bow eye off, as it seems rather solid. Is this expected? And yes, Tom I would like the bow eye (D).
Tom W Clark	posted 02-15-2014 04:09 PM ET (US) Get what you have now off the boat first. I would expect it to come apart, though not without some effort. I have never had to cut one off before. Loosteneing and tightening of the assembly is always done from the lifting eye inside the hull. DO NOT let the bow eye spin when you are trying to unscrew everything. That is easier said than done, especially when you are really wrenching the lifting eye. It is best if you have a helper hold the bow eye secure and lean into the hull to help keep it from moving. The Bow Eye has a pair of tits cast into it that bite into the fiberglass to help secure it in position, so if it is allowed to twist, the gel coat will chip out. I have all three parts. The Bow Eye is chrome over brass and I paid Sue Lodel at Twin Cities $63 plus shipping The 10-3/8" threaded part she sold me for $10 plus shipping The cast and polished stainless steel lifting ring she sold me for $13 plus shipping. You are welcome to any or all of them at those prices; I ended up salvaging the hardware of the Montauk I was working on at the time.