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| Author | Topic: RUB RAIL INSTALLATION "TIPS AND TRICKS" |
| bfhjack |
The rub rail I used came from Boston Whaler. It is a 3 piece system, a rubber "L" shape gasket, a rigid plastic rub rail, and a black rubber insert for the rub-rail. It came complete with rivits and hardware for finishing the wrap around on the transom. I opted for stainless screws. I ordered the rub rail and a complete graphics package and it was about $90.00. My wife and I installed the rail in about 2 hours. Here's what we learned: Tools needed: screw gun and drill or rivit gun and drill, rubber mallet, heat gun, the most important tool was "Quick-Grip" mini bar clamps made by Vise-Grip (4 of them, 12inch), utility knife. The rigid rail is exactly that, very rigid so let it in the sun all day to warm up. The rail comes with a square cut end, make a mitre cut to match angle of transom. I also suggest to do this project on grass as I learned, concrete scratches the rub rail, You'll see what I mean, this stuff is not really cooperative when you first start. Anyway, align the gasket and the mitred cut with transom and clamp up about 3 or 4 feet use as many clamps as you can. (The use of screws allows you to make easier adjustments.) The first couple of feet are the toughest. Once clamped, use mallet to straighten rail then screw. Once screwed, advance clamps and repeat process. Sight down the rail from stern to ensure rail is straight. Use heat gun to soften rail when you get to the bow. Take your time, it does bend and conform to the radius. When inserting the black insert, leave about 4 inches extend out the back before inserting. This allows you to wrap it on the transom and attach with the supplied plastic insert and screw and dress washer.. Sorry about the long disertation but I wish I had this info before starting. Clamps are imperative to achieve a great looking job. Rail can be ordered from your BW dealer. |
| KCarlsen |
I just installed the same rub rail system on my 1969 classic but I purchased the rail from Barbour plastics. They only deal wholesale but after begging them, they finally gave in and sold me the pieces, $108 total. I screwed the rigid part in every 8" and kept the roll in the box to prevent scratching on my concrete floor. My wife held the rail as I drilled and screwed. The rigid is white and the L piece and insert are black. I used a heat gun when I got to the curves at the bow. The rail looks great and gives the old boat a beautiful visible line. I am very happy with the results. Kurt |
| kent |
Kurt, I ran into the same thing with Barbour. They didn't want to sell to me, either. I talked to a person named Kathy Foley. I didn't beg, but I guess that I don't have the same power of persuassion as you! She basically told me that I would have deal with a BW dealer. The Barbour lead turned out to be a dead end, except that I did learn some things about the rail that they supply to Whaler. |
| jimh |
I have mined all the nuggets from the FORUM on the topic of RUB RAILS and refined it into an article. I think this puts all the info in one place for future reference. See: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/rubRail.html Thanks to all who contributed! --jimh |
| lhg |
Another topic of continuing interest. |
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