Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: new owner|
posted 07-03-2000 10:35 AM ET (US)
I have just recently been given a 1970 BW. It is a side console model and there is considerable damage to the hull. At the stern and back about 18 inches from transom base there is a hole. This area looks almost as if the boat was dropped, the hole is aboout one foot long and the hull material is pushed up enough that you can stick maybe half your hand inside. In doing this I can feel no foam. Also in the areas adjacent to this it appears that some other repairs have been made. The rest of the hull, and the transom seem to be in fairly good shape. There also may be some delamination between the hull and the foam core in other areas, I say this because of the sound the hull makes when knocked on in these areas. My original thouht was to run a cut around the top the gun breaking the bond which holds the inner shell and the hull together. I was then going to lift the inner shell out alog with the floatation core and make the repairs to the hull from the inside. The questions that I have are this; 1. to start with is this ever been done to your knowledge, I know that bw says that the bond is inseperable. 2. the method that I was thinking was to take the hull once it was seperated to a local shop and have them use a chopper gun to reenforce the entire inside of the hull. 3. providing that I am successful this far are there suppliers for the foam core replacement. Any help and advice that any one can give would be appreciated, I realize that this will be a big project.
posted 07-04-2000 01:50 PM ET (US)
Are you serious about this? There is no way to separate the two without totaly ruining the boat that I can tell. The area under the rubrail is where the two pieces are fiberglassed together, however, at the factory the foam is poured in and expands and hardens and bonds to each of the "skins". BW is correct in saying that the two are inseperable. I have never heard of anyone even thinking of this. If you were given this boat, pay a shop to fix the spots and you will still be miles ahead of the game.Good luck and please don't try to separate the two.
posted 07-05-2000 10:20 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the input.I hear what you are saying and appreciate your advice. As far as the rest of the issues ie. source for the foam etc. can you provide ant info. I don't know if the void that I described in the damaged area is normal. The artical on trailering for Whalers may have shed some insite as to how this damaged occured. Also I understand that there is a gentelman in Angier, NC that is deep into the Whaler scene, any idea as to who he is and how he can be reached?? Thanks.
posted 07-05-2000 02:25 PM ET (US)
At the Toronto Boat show this winter, a marina/boatyard exhibitor was hawking their refinishing prowess by displaying an old 13-foot Whaler. One side was in the as-is distressed condition, the otherside had been restored.
It was an effective advertisement for their services, as well as testimony to the durabilty and repairability of the Whaler.
The as-is side was full of chips, holes, punctures, exposed laminate and foam.
The refinished side looked almost factory new.
If you are inclined you can do much of this yourself, using materials like West System Epoxy. (You may want to listen to the interview with West System in the Whaler-Radio section of the website.)
Or you can let someone else do it. If that is your choice, be sure they are acquainted with the construction of Boston Whalers.
Also, I believe you can get a couple of sheets of instructions from the factory on how repairs should be made.
posted 07-06-2000 12:04 AM ET (US)
WE PURCHASED A 1974 13' WHALER SEVERAL YEARS AGO. THE BARE HULL WEIGHT WAS AROUND 750lbs. DUE TO A SATURATED CORE. TO REPAIR THE HULL WE HAD TO CUT OUT THE ENTIRE INNER LINER IN PIECES AND THEN DIG OUT ALL OF THE FOAM(shovels work best). OUR BEST ALTENATIVE TO SAVE THE HULL WAS TO SAND THE INSIDE OF THE OUTER HULL AND APPLY 2 LAYERS OF BIAXIAL FABRIC WITH VINYLESTER RESIN. INSTALL 5 FULL LENGTH WOODEN STRINGERS. RECONSTRUCT THE INNER CORE FROM 3/8" PLYWOOD, BIAXIAL FABRIC, AND VINYLESTER RESIN. THE ENTIRE TRANSOM HAD TO BE REPLACED AND WAS MADE OF (7) LAYERS OF 1/4" PLYWOOD, BOWED INTO POSITION AND FIBERGLASSED ONE LAYER AT A TIME. AFTER ALL OF THE WORK WAS COMPLETED THE HULL ONLY GAINED 25lbs. IN WEIGHT ABOVE THE FACTORY SPECS. KEEP IN MIND THIS IS NO EASY JOB, MONTHS OF GRINDING, SAWING, FITTING, FIBERGLASSING, AND SANDING WILL USUALLY OVERWHELM THE AVERAGE BOAT OWNER. THIS TYPE OF WORK IS BEST LEFT TO A PROFESSIONAL.
posted 07-06-2000 02:35 PM ET (US)
Wouldn't it have been cheaper to spend $3000 or so for a brand new bare hull, or a good used one? I've never heard of anything like that before.
posted 07-06-2000 11:09 PM ET (US)
A NEW HULL WOULD NOT OFFER THE PERFORMANCE OR INTERIOR LAYOUT FOR OUR NEEDS. WE STRAIGHTENED THE BOTTOM OF THE HULL AND REMOVED THE HOOK THAT WAS NEAR THE TRANSOM. THE BOAT WILL PROBABLY BE OUTFITTED WITH A NEW 50HP 4 CYCLE OUTBOARD WITH POWER TRIM AND TILT. THE INTERIOR WAS FITTED WITH FULL FRONT AND REAR DECKS THAT ARE NOW A PERMANENT PART OF THE NEW INNER HULL. THE ENCLOSED STORAGE IS PERFECT FOR ALL OF OUR UNDERWATER WORK EQUIPMENT.
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