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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Sikkens Cetol Marine
|Author||Topic: Sikkens Cetol Marine|
posted 09-07-2000 09:25 PM ET (US)
Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of using Sikkens Cetol Marine on teak.(appearance,durability,application,etc)And how does it compare to using Varnish or Wood Oils.(Great forum,not a day go's by that I don't pull it up,to read the latest advice)
posted 09-08-2000 09:26 AM ET (US)
Go to the Repairs/Mod site, set the days counter to 100, then pull up the string started by Tom Byrum on "Best Finish for Teak". Last entry was dated 8/9/00. Got a lot of good info and a testamonial or two regarding Cetol. Great product, in my opinion.
posted 09-08-2000 09:31 AM ET (US)
Just remembered, go check the Cetacea photo gallery for pic no. 17. Dan Firth's gorgeous 18' is finished with Cetol Marine. My own results with the product look similar to Dan's (but without Dan's cool custom cabinetry!).
posted 09-08-2000 02:43 PM ET (US)
Boston Whaler always always (and still does) recommended that the teak on their boats be oiled. The problem that I have with Sikkens that the teak tends to have an orange cast to it. My continuing recommendation is to either oil or varnish.
posted 09-08-2000 03:22 PM ET (US)
Check out West Marine's West Advisor section and look at the Wood Finishes page: http://www.westmarine.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/west_advisor.d2w/show_advisor?fn=327.htm
posted 09-08-2000 05:33 PM ET (US)
Without a doubt, this is a dealer's choice issue. If you like to oil, scrub, chemically clean, periodically strip and sand teak, man, knock yourself out and use a good oil. It's attractive and many folks' preference, including the B/W people's. Without varnish, the alternative to all that upkeep is a dirty-looking rig after 4 to 6 months. We've done all that for years but decided to varnish when we moved up to a teak-covered 18'. Just too much to keep after. The color in the Cetacea pic of Dan's 18' is very close to actual, so you can decide whether or not you like the Sikkens color and finish from there. I chose Sikkens over marine varnish principally because of varnish's tendency to crack and check with age. It gets brittle as it gets older (like some of us!). I refinish a lot of furniture, and have definate opinions about varnishes, etc. The Cetol does run to an "orange/tan" tint. Having seen it on a friend's rig, though, and finding that it is a very thin, penetrating oil (like tung oil, the way I like it), I decided to go with it. It's known for being extremely tough. It remains flexible so it won't check with age. After eight months of heavy Gulf-coast fishing, the finish has held up beautifully to normal wear. And the few scrapes have been easily repaired with a light spot sanding and several spot coats of Sikkens, minutes of maintenance so far, not hours as would be the case with oil. There's my two cents. Good luck!
posted 09-09-2000 04:41 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the advice guys,I've learned alot sense I joined this forum.
posted 09-09-2000 04:47 PM ET (US)
Wash with 25% muriatic acid in water... scrub and flush well... when dry , coat with a mixture of about 25% automatic transmission fluid (ATF - dextron)and Kerosene (K1 if available) ... this is assuming you don't have it already gunk'd up with varnish or polyurethane -- this recipe was passed on to me by an old old Whaler sailor ---- good luck and wear rubber gloves - --- smells great and an added bonus keeps the bugs away until it dries --- chuckle
posted 09-09-2000 05:00 PM ET (US)
You been using that application in enclosed spaces, maybe ???
With all due respect, etc., etc.
posted 09-11-2000 12:08 AM ET (US)
I give up. You guys are beyond hope! No wonder Whaler stopped using teak!
posted 09-11-2000 07:30 PM ET (US)
Heck, I'm not even gonna go through the varnished teak door on this thread!
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