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david in boston posted 11-17-2000 04:35 PM ET (US)
I have a 72 whaler bass boat 16 that has a deck insert much like a newport with wide gunwhales and also a casting deck in the bow and stern. the balsa core in the florr of the deck insert has gotten soft in a few places and I would like to repair them with new cores and glass. to do this right I need to separate the deck insert from the whaler hull and flip it over to get at the underneath easily, that is my first question. how to separate the deck insert from the hull. I think I need to remove the rubrail and screws/rivets that hold it in place, then I think the insert will lift out. has anyone tried this? how hard is it to put it back together after? My boat has a small center console mounted to the deck insert. I really like the casting deck for fishing and the loads of storage space underneath. for family stuff when we go to the beach. Thanks for you help. David
DIVE 1 posted 11-17-2000 09:48 PM ET (US)
David,
We are starting the same removal process on a BW bass boat next weekend. I will let you know what type of fun you will encounter. We are converting the bass boat to a montauk style interior for the owner. The entire liner and console will be available if you need any parts.
Benja posted 11-21-2000 11:02 AM ET (US)
I might be interested in the console what does it look like?
DIVE 1 posted 11-25-2000 11:03 PM ET (US)
David,
We popped the inner liner out of a bass boat today. We accomplished the entire job in 2 1/2 hours with 3 people.
1. Remove engine, batteries, fuel tanks
2. Disconnect steering, shift & throttle cables at helm
3. Disconnect all wiring that runs through the tunnel
4. Remove bow light and stern light socket
5. Remove 4 stanchions under deck - 2 under center console, 2 under rear deck
6. Remove rubrail insert, drill out all rivets and remove rub rail
7. Drill out second set of rivets underneath rubrail
8. Remove screws and finish washers from the inner hull sides of the liner, there are plywood shim boards between the inner hull and the bass boat liner(the plywood shim boards can be removed after the liner is removed)
9. Grab liner in the center of the bow and stern where the hatch openings are located, shake liner up and down until it pops loose, slide blocks of wood between gunwale and liner
10. Put 2 people on either side of the bow(outside the boat) to pick up the front of the liner, leave the third person in the boat near the stern to pick up the back of the liner. Walk the liner off the front of the boat, take your time and reposition people as needed.
To make removal of rivets easier, center punch all rivets prior to drilling.
Good Luck,
Jim
david in boston posted 11-27-2000 01:19 PM ET (US)
Jim
thanks for the great detailed instructions. it will be a big help to me. how heavy is the deck insert? I plan on putting my insert back in after i fix it. do you see any problems in doing so? how will you re-attach the rubrail? ss screws or rivets again? where will you get a new rubrail insert? can you reuse the rubrail flange? I am missing the two forward stanchions on my boat and would be interested in the ones you removed if you are willing to part with them. Thanks again for your help. David
DIVE 1 posted 11-27-2000 05:47 PM ET (US)
David,
1. The deck weighs 150-200 lbs.
2. The insert should go back in easily, reuse the screws on the inside and rerivet to the gunwales(You will have to drill all new rivet holes in the gunwales.
3. We have to put on a new rubrail and insert, the old one was so dried out and hard that it kept cracking when we removed it. I will let you know this week about a source for the rubrail. I like the rubrail we installed on DIVE 1, but it is too big for the smaller hull. We install the rubrails with screws, I will provide the info on the screws with the rubrail info.
4. Are you missing the stanchions under the center console? If so, let me know and I will send them to you.
Jim
DIVE 1 posted 11-27-2000 06:06 PM ET (US)
Benja,
The center console is attached to the top of the deck in the bass boat. So when removed it is not very tall. The console we have is pretty nasty. The back or drivers side was butchered quite extensively to fit an array of electronic toys and switches into the panel. To solve this consoles overventilation problem (as the electronic toys were changed over the years) the previous owner installed a nice selection of non-matching aluminum plates to cover the unneeded holes.
With all the details mentioned above about this "premium grade" center console, the decision is yours. If you need the console, let me know.
Jim
david in boston posted 11-27-2000 09:21 PM ET (US)
Jim, thanks for the update. I am missing the stanchions under the console. At the moment, I have two 4x4 pt wood posts under there, works fine but looks bad. Let me know about costs for the stanchions and shipping and I can get a check out to you. I have the boat in a big barn so i will be able to work on it over the winter. One other question, my bow deck hatches are not attached to the boat, they sit in a depression in the deck, but look like they might have been attached at one point. are they on yours? is that stock setup? Thanks for your help.
David Vergara 21 greenwood ave. Needham, MA 02492
DIVE 1 posted 11-27-2000 10:40 PM ET (US)
David,
I will send you the stanchions this week. I can not provide much info on the bow hatches. There is a hatch cover on the anchor locker and is held in place by the bow cushion. The other 2 openings in the deck did not have hatch covers. one of the openings had a cooler with a cushioned lid. There are no holes in the deck to indicate that the hatches had any hinges or latches. Sorry not much help, maybe someone else on the forum has better info on hatches.
Jim
david in boston posted 11-28-2000 09:13 AM ET (US)
Jim
thanks, I hope you will take photos of your project and send them to Jim to post in the cetaecia section. I would love to see how your boat turns out as I may try something similar sometime. what will you use for center console/seat? Thanks, David
DIVE 1 posted 11-28-2000 06:18 PM ET (US)
David,
We will fabricate a new center console out of aluminum. This allows us to build to the owners size requirements and recess everything into the dash panel. The only limitation is the width, we have to mount to the wood in the hull. No seat required, the owner likes the tubular aluminum leaning post in DIVE 1. Again, we have to screw into the wood laminated into the hull. The stern seat frame is fabricated from stainless steel angle and will have a bead blasted finish. Cushions are made locally. The only thing that we can not provide is the T-Top the owner desires. The hull does not have enough meat to support a T-Top. We talked her into a bimini top instead(easier to trailer and fit in the garage). The owner wants a low maintenance boat for diving and to take the kids to the beach. We will non-skid the entire interior of the hull with gelcoat. Spray in the first coat and then turn down the air pressure for the second coat. This forces the sprayer to spit the gelcoat, it makes a nice uniform non-skid finish. If the dive gear or kids nick or gouge the interior finish, no problem, dab on a little gelcoat with a paint brush. No one will ever know. All of the aluminum will be painted with Awlgrip. No teak, nothing gaudy, just plain and simple, easy to clean, rinse everything with a hose as needed. The owner told me she wants to spend her time using her boat on the weekends not cleaning it.
david in boston posted 11-28-2000 08:36 PM ET (US)
Jim, sounds really bullet-proof. please send post photos of it! Thanks David
DIVE 1 posted 11-29-2000 08:49 PM ET (US)
David,
I should be able to send the stanchions tomorrow. When we replaced the rubrail on DIVE 1, we purchased it from Barbour Plastics, Brockton, Mass. Ph#508-583-8200. They were the OEM for older BW rubrails. We had to purchase 100' minimum, price including shipping was $226.00. Give them a call and see if you can purchase just what is needed for your boat. If you have to purchase 100', let me know because I have the bass boat and a 13' BW that need new rubrails. We can split the order. I may also get a better price. To install new rubrails on BWs, we use #12 hex washer head screws, length depends on hull and rubrail thickness. The screws are easy to install with a screwgun and hex head driver.
david in boston posted 11-30-2000 09:49 AM ET (US)
Brockton is 15 minutes from me, I will check out Barbour Plastics and see what they say. Thanks for the tip! David
DIVE 1 posted 12-05-2000 09:17 PM ET (US)
David,
Did you contact Barbour Plastics? Do you need the bow rail or center console rail for your bass boat? I also have the bow plexiglass spray shield if yours is in need of replacement. Let me know and I will gladly ship the parts.
Jim
david in boston posted 12-06-2000 10:26 AM ET (US)
Jim,
thanks for the stanchions, they fit perfectly! I have a tall bow rail, montauk style, on my bass boat whaler now, so I dont need that, but I dont have a spray sheild and I dont think my console ever had one. was this an add-on? what are the demensions? I would be interested in the spray shield. My console is fine as well. I do need a new bow light but I assume you will be re-using the one you have. I havent called Barbour yet, but will shortly. Thanks for your help. David
david in boston posted 12-06-2000 10:43 AM ET (US)
Jim
I just figured out that the bow sray shield you are talking about is like the Newport style with a low bow rail, right? My boat must be older than yours because it came with no bow rail, the tall bow rail I have now was added later from montauk parts. I might be interested in converting mine to the low rail with spay shield and console rail. How much are you asking for the parts? Thanks David
DIVE 1 posted 12-06-2000 07:57 PM ET (US)
David,
You are correct about the low railing and spray shield, same as Newport. I can send drawings and photographs for the mounting locations if you need the parts. I also have the short grab rail that is on top of the center console. Just cover the UPS charges and the parts are yours. With 3 BWs in the works, I am more than happy to unload some excess parts.
david in boston posted 12-06-2000 11:03 PM ET (US)
Jim, sounds good to me! how will you get the bow rail in a box? does it brake down? is the spray shield in ok shape? send me an e-mail with the costs and I will arrange payment. thanks!, David
DIVE 1 posted 12-07-2000 06:58 PM ET (US)
David,
The bow rail disassembles at all of the fittings. The spray shield is in good shape. Let me get my act together on the dimensional drawing and I should be able to ship everything next week.

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Author	Topic: taking apart my old whaler
david in boston	posted 11-17-2000 04:35 PM ET (US) I have a 72 whaler bass boat 16 that has a deck insert much like a newport with wide gunwhales and also a casting deck in the bow and stern. the balsa core in the florr of the deck insert has gotten soft in a few places and I would like to repair them with new cores and glass. to do this right I need to separate the deck insert from the whaler hull and flip it over to get at the underneath easily, that is my first question. how to separate the deck insert from the hull. I think I need to remove the rubrail and screws/rivets that hold it in place, then I think the insert will lift out. has anyone tried this? how hard is it to put it back together after? My boat has a small center console mounted to the deck insert. I really like the casting deck for fishing and the loads of storage space underneath. for family stuff when we go to the beach. Thanks for you help. David
DIVE 1	posted 11-17-2000 09:48 PM ET (US) David, We are starting the same removal process on a BW bass boat next weekend. I will let you know what type of fun you will encounter. We are converting the bass boat to a montauk style interior for the owner. The entire liner and console will be available if you need any parts.
Benja	posted 11-21-2000 11:02 AM ET (US) I might be interested in the console what does it look like?
DIVE 1	posted 11-25-2000 11:03 PM ET (US) David, We popped the inner liner out of a bass boat today. We accomplished the entire job in 2 1/2 hours with 3 people. 1. Remove engine, batteries, fuel tanks 2. Disconnect steering, shift & throttle cables at helm 3. Disconnect all wiring that runs through the tunnel 4. Remove bow light and stern light socket 5. Remove 4 stanchions under deck - 2 under center console, 2 under rear deck 6. Remove rubrail insert, drill out all rivets and remove rub rail 7. Drill out second set of rivets underneath rubrail 8. Remove screws and finish washers from the inner hull sides of the liner, there are plywood shim boards between the inner hull and the bass boat liner(the plywood shim boards can be removed after the liner is removed) 9. Grab liner in the center of the bow and stern where the hatch openings are located, shake liner up and down until it pops loose, slide blocks of wood between gunwale and liner 10. Put 2 people on either side of the bow(outside the boat) to pick up the front of the liner, leave the third person in the boat near the stern to pick up the back of the liner. Walk the liner off the front of the boat, take your time and reposition people as needed. To make removal of rivets easier, center punch all rivets prior to drilling. Good Luck, Jim
david in boston	posted 11-27-2000 01:19 PM ET (US) Jim thanks for the great detailed instructions. it will be a big help to me. how heavy is the deck insert? I plan on putting my insert back in after i fix it. do you see any problems in doing so? how will you re-attach the rubrail? ss screws or rivets again? where will you get a new rubrail insert? can you reuse the rubrail flange? I am missing the two forward stanchions on my boat and would be interested in the ones you removed if you are willing to part with them. Thanks again for your help. David
DIVE 1	posted 11-27-2000 05:47 PM ET (US) David, 1. The deck weighs 150-200 lbs. 2. The insert should go back in easily, reuse the screws on the inside and rerivet to the gunwales(You will have to drill all new rivet holes in the gunwales. 3. We have to put on a new rubrail and insert, the old one was so dried out and hard that it kept cracking when we removed it. I will let you know this week about a source for the rubrail. I like the rubrail we installed on DIVE 1, but it is too big for the smaller hull. We install the rubrails with screws, I will provide the info on the screws with the rubrail info. 4. Are you missing the stanchions under the center console? If so, let me know and I will send them to you. Jim
DIVE 1	posted 11-27-2000 06:06 PM ET (US) Benja, The center console is attached to the top of the deck in the bass boat. So when removed it is not very tall. The console we have is pretty nasty. The back or drivers side was butchered quite extensively to fit an array of electronic toys and switches into the panel. To solve this consoles overventilation problem (as the electronic toys were changed over the years) the previous owner installed a nice selection of non-matching aluminum plates to cover the unneeded holes. With all the details mentioned above about this "premium grade" center console, the decision is yours. If you need the console, let me know. Jim
david in boston	posted 11-27-2000 09:21 PM ET (US) Jim, thanks for the update. I am missing the stanchions under the console. At the moment, I have two 4x4 pt wood posts under there, works fine but looks bad. Let me know about costs for the stanchions and shipping and I can get a check out to you. I have the boat in a big barn so i will be able to work on it over the winter. One other question, my bow deck hatches are not attached to the boat, they sit in a depression in the deck, but look like they might have been attached at one point. are they on yours? is that stock setup? Thanks for your help. David Vergara 21 greenwood ave. Needham, MA 02492
DIVE 1	posted 11-27-2000 10:40 PM ET (US) David, I will send you the stanchions this week. I can not provide much info on the bow hatches. There is a hatch cover on the anchor locker and is held in place by the bow cushion. The other 2 openings in the deck did not have hatch covers. one of the openings had a cooler with a cushioned lid. There are no holes in the deck to indicate that the hatches had any hinges or latches. Sorry not much help, maybe someone else on the forum has better info on hatches. Jim
david in boston	posted 11-28-2000 09:13 AM ET (US) Jim thanks, I hope you will take photos of your project and send them to Jim to post in the cetaecia section. I would love to see how your boat turns out as I may try something similar sometime. what will you use for center console/seat? Thanks, David
DIVE 1	posted 11-28-2000 06:18 PM ET (US) David, We will fabricate a new center console out of aluminum. This allows us to build to the owners size requirements and recess everything into the dash panel. The only limitation is the width, we have to mount to the wood in the hull. No seat required, the owner likes the tubular aluminum leaning post in DIVE 1. Again, we have to screw into the wood laminated into the hull. The stern seat frame is fabricated from stainless steel angle and will have a bead blasted finish. Cushions are made locally. The only thing that we can not provide is the T-Top the owner desires. The hull does not have enough meat to support a T-Top. We talked her into a bimini top instead(easier to trailer and fit in the garage). The owner wants a low maintenance boat for diving and to take the kids to the beach. We will non-skid the entire interior of the hull with gelcoat. Spray in the first coat and then turn down the air pressure for the second coat. This forces the sprayer to spit the gelcoat, it makes a nice uniform non-skid finish. If the dive gear or kids nick or gouge the interior finish, no problem, dab on a little gelcoat with a paint brush. No one will ever know. All of the aluminum will be painted with Awlgrip. No teak, nothing gaudy, just plain and simple, easy to clean, rinse everything with a hose as needed. The owner told me she wants to spend her time using her boat on the weekends not cleaning it.
david in boston	posted 11-28-2000 08:36 PM ET (US) Jim, sounds really bullet-proof. please send post photos of it! Thanks David
DIVE 1	posted 11-29-2000 08:49 PM ET (US) David, I should be able to send the stanchions tomorrow. When we replaced the rubrail on DIVE 1, we purchased it from Barbour Plastics, Brockton, Mass. Ph#508-583-8200. They were the OEM for older BW rubrails. We had to purchase 100' minimum, price including shipping was $226.00. Give them a call and see if you can purchase just what is needed for your boat. If you have to purchase 100', let me know because I have the bass boat and a 13' BW that need new rubrails. We can split the order. I may also get a better price. To install new rubrails on BWs, we use #12 hex washer head screws, length depends on hull and rubrail thickness. The screws are easy to install with a screwgun and hex head driver.
david in boston	posted 11-30-2000 09:49 AM ET (US) Brockton is 15 minutes from me, I will check out Barbour Plastics and see what they say. Thanks for the tip! David
DIVE 1	posted 12-05-2000 09:17 PM ET (US) David, Did you contact Barbour Plastics? Do you need the bow rail or center console rail for your bass boat? I also have the bow plexiglass spray shield if yours is in need of replacement. Let me know and I will gladly ship the parts. Jim
david in boston	posted 12-06-2000 10:26 AM ET (US) Jim, thanks for the stanchions, they fit perfectly! I have a tall bow rail, montauk style, on my bass boat whaler now, so I dont need that, but I dont have a spray sheild and I dont think my console ever had one. was this an add-on? what are the demensions? I would be interested in the spray shield. My console is fine as well. I do need a new bow light but I assume you will be re-using the one you have. I havent called Barbour yet, but will shortly. Thanks for your help. David
david in boston	posted 12-06-2000 10:43 AM ET (US) Jim I just figured out that the bow sray shield you are talking about is like the Newport style with a low bow rail, right? My boat must be older than yours because it came with no bow rail, the tall bow rail I have now was added later from montauk parts. I might be interested in converting mine to the low rail with spay shield and console rail. How much are you asking for the parts? Thanks David
DIVE 1	posted 12-06-2000 07:57 PM ET (US) David, You are correct about the low railing and spray shield, same as Newport. I can send drawings and photographs for the mounting locations if you need the parts. I also have the short grab rail that is on top of the center console. Just cover the UPS charges and the parts are yours. With 3 BWs in the works, I am more than happy to unload some excess parts.
david in boston	posted 12-06-2000 11:03 PM ET (US) Jim, sounds good to me! how will you get the bow rail in a box? does it brake down? is the spray shield in ok shape? send me an e-mail with the costs and I will arrange payment. thanks!, David
DIVE 1	posted 12-07-2000 06:58 PM ET (US) David, The bow rail disassembles at all of the fittings. The spray shield is in good shape. Let me get my act together on the dimensional drawing and I should be able to ship everything next week.