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  Bait tank mounting on Outrage 19' 1977

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Author Topic:   Bait tank mounting on Outrage 19' 1977

simon posted 03-30-2001 08:16 PM ET (US)
Looking for advice on mounting a 32 gallon brute trash can, with locking base. I plan on mounting the locking base to the boat's center line deck plate (10' x 2').The 40 gallon fuel tank is underneath this fiberglass plate.
1. Do I try and through-hull the locking base using bolts and screws on the plate.
2.Screw into the deck plate and mount the locking base with no bolts.
3. Or, reinforce the locking base with 1/4" aluminum under neath the deck plate, and through-hull the locking base.
What I want to do, is create a way where I can pull the locking base off when not in use, and not have screws protruding through the deck.
thanks,
patrick
reelescape1 posted 03-31-2001 09:48 PM ET (US)
I dont know exactly what your circumstances are but in my 22' I have a "home-made" 30ish gallon tank thats basically bungee corded to the stern seat rail. The weight of the water holds the tank there. I fish the ocean and haven't had a problem with the tank sliding or moving...I would try it before I drilled holes.
dfmcintyre posted 04-01-2001 09:44 PM ET (US)
Patrick -
If your looking for a stong base and willing to be creative, I'd lean toward door number 3, with some options.
Remove the fuel deck plate (and while it's off, inspect the fittings, tank and hoses for corrosion. I'm glad I did on my not that much older 21...) and fabricate an aluminum ring (I don't think you need to make an entire aluminum plate, just a ring) about two to three inches wide out of 1/4"
Now you don't want to have a bolt stuck up through that you would hit when the rig is out of the boat, nor do you want to introduce water _into_ the hole's either. And you don't want to take the fuel deck off, every time your adding or taking off the trash can.
I'd drill through the ring at regular intervals, and insert barrel nuts that are large and long enough to go through the _bottom_ of the ring. Tack weld the nuts to the ring.
Drill corrosponding holes through the deck plate, and resin the insides of the holes, to keep the water from penetrating the wood in the plate.
Mount the ring on the underside of the deck plate with stainless wood screws, to go into the plywood, but not _through_ it, into the floor of the deck ("ouch, what the hell was that?" would be the order of the day with barefeet)
Once mounted, fill the surrounding small open areas between the drilled holes and the shaft of the barrel nut with resin.
This way, if you get the right sized nuts, they will be flush to the deck, yet no water can get into the hull or inner wood area.
I mounted my trim pump using this method.
West's have barrel nuts.
Don
simon posted 04-03-2001 09:39 AM ET (US)
Don,
thanks for the input, I like your idea about the barrell nuts.
-Patrick

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Author	Topic: Bait tank mounting on Outrage 19' 1977
simon	posted 03-30-2001 08:16 PM ET (US) Looking for advice on mounting a 32 gallon brute trash can, with locking base. I plan on mounting the locking base to the boat's center line deck plate (10' x 2').The 40 gallon fuel tank is underneath this fiberglass plate. 1. Do I try and through-hull the locking base using bolts and screws on the plate. 2.Screw into the deck plate and mount the locking base with no bolts. 3. Or, reinforce the locking base with 1/4" aluminum under neath the deck plate, and through-hull the locking base. What I want to do, is create a way where I can pull the locking base off when not in use, and not have screws protruding through the deck. thanks, patrick
reelescape1	posted 03-31-2001 09:48 PM ET (US) I dont know exactly what your circumstances are but in my 22' I have a "home-made" 30ish gallon tank thats basically bungee corded to the stern seat rail. The weight of the water holds the tank there. I fish the ocean and haven't had a problem with the tank sliding or moving...I would try it before I drilled holes.
dfmcintyre	posted 04-01-2001 09:44 PM ET (US) Patrick - If your looking for a stong base and willing to be creative, I'd lean toward door number 3, with some options. Remove the fuel deck plate (and while it's off, inspect the fittings, tank and hoses for corrosion. I'm glad I did on my not that much older 21...) and fabricate an aluminum ring (I don't think you need to make an entire aluminum plate, just a ring) about two to three inches wide out of 1/4" Now you don't want to have a bolt stuck up through that you would hit when the rig is out of the boat, nor do you want to introduce water _into_ the hole's either. And you don't want to take the fuel deck off, every time your adding or taking off the trash can. I'd drill through the ring at regular intervals, and insert barrel nuts that are large and long enough to go through the _bottom_ of the ring. Tack weld the nuts to the ring. Drill corrosponding holes through the deck plate, and resin the insides of the holes, to keep the water from penetrating the wood in the plate. Mount the ring on the underside of the deck plate with stainless wood screws, to go into the plywood, but not _through_ it, into the floor of the deck ("ouch, what the hell was that?" would be the order of the day with barefeet) Once mounted, fill the surrounding small open areas between the drilled holes and the shaft of the barrel nut with resin. This way, if you get the right sized nuts, they will be flush to the deck, yet no water can get into the hull or inner wood area. I mounted my trim pump using this method. West's have barrel nuts. Don
simon	posted 04-03-2001 09:39 AM ET (US) Don, thanks for the input, I like your idea about the barrell nuts. -Patrick