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Author Topic:   Too Long in Storage

Whaler4me posted 04-25-2001 05:14 PM ET (US)
I have had a Yamaha 150 (1986) sitting in storage for the last 10 years, what suggestions if any do you have for getting this motor back in running order, anyone know of good outboard mechanic in S. FLA
where2 posted 04-25-2001 06:12 PM ET (US)
Presuming no particular attention was paid to the engine before storage (like fogging it, and adding a fuel stabilizer to the fuel). I would suggest: rebuild the carbs, replace the gearcase oil, replace the water pump impeller, check the compression, replace any on-engine fuel filter, and run the engine on a small tank of fresh gas with earmuffs before venturing to the ramp to launch. If the engine has been on a boat, drain the fuel tank, refill the tank with fresh gas, replace the fuel filter, check for leaks in the bilge after refilling the tank, add some suitable anti-water fuel additive (in case any water remained in the tank after you emptied it). Get engine running using earmuffs and portable tank, then switch over to on-board tanks, and run for 10-15 minutes using earmuffs. If engine runs off on-board tank for 10-15 minutes, take boat to ramp and launch.
Where are you in south florida? (city)
"Where2"?
Tom W Clark posted 04-25-2001 10:13 PM ET (US)
where2 offers good advice. I would add that the first thing to do is remove all the spark plugs and squirt some fogging oil (or WD-40 or motor oil or any kind of oil you have) into all the cylinders and turn the flywheel by hand. This will help with that fist 'stroke' of the pistons in a totally 'dry' cylinder. You may find that there is an initial bond caused by corrosion or rust (it takes only a tiny bit) that makes it seem like the engine has seized but fear not, once it is moving anf you're smearing all that oil around in there it will by quite smooth. On intitial start up there will, of course, be a lot of smoke. Don't panic, this is only the oil being burned up and it will clear after a minute of two.
I wouldn't automatically rebuild the carbs or replace the impeller because this is a lot of work, and you want to see if the motor runs at all before making that investment. But certainly gearcase oil, filters and grease every grease fitting in sight!
Whaler4me posted 04-26-2001 09:19 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the good words of advice, I will let you know how it comes out.
Chris J posted 04-27-2001 11:23 AM ET (US)
After 10 years of being left dry, I'd say the impeller is probably hard as a rock and will spin off its blades within a few hours of operation. It is probably better to change it that risk getting stuck out on the water.
10 years is a long time but the motor might be in surprisingly good shape. A lot depends on how it was laid up way back then.
By the way, does anyone have any suggestions on how to dispose of old 50:1 mixed gas? Sounds good on paper but kind of hard to do when you have 60 gallons or so (a dilemma I face every now and then).
Tom W Clark posted 04-27-2001 11:40 AM ET (US)
Chris J,
Here in Seattle we has a hazardous waste disposal program for home owners. They will take virtually anything except explosives. (does anybody know how to get rid of old flares?) I recently took an old six gallon tank of premix and they emptied it for me and gave me back the tank. Our service is free and I don't know of any quantity limit.
I have also had the fuel in the tank of one of my boats "polished" by a filtration company and they charged me over $2/gallon to dispose of the residual contaminated gas at a commercial hazardous waste site. 60 gallons would certainly add up! I suggest you call your municipality or county and ask what the accepted method of disposal is.
Zack posted 04-27-2001 11:47 AM ET (US)
I had the same problem with a 1978 Merc 90 that had sat since 1982. As suggested pull the plugs and fill with WD40, let set for couple of weeks. Each day rotate engine by hand for a turn or two. Then remove excess oil by turning over several times. The water impellor needs to be replaced. You have to watch all you fuel lines for leaking, all of mine were leaking and I had to rebuild the fuel pump. I put only a gallon of gas in a can and added 16 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil and a little 50:1 oil for the start up. I turned to engine over several times before I put the plugs back in. I started it in the drive with ear mufflers on it. Ran fine with plenty of water pressure. I ran it on several different days until I had used up all the gas. Marvel Mystery oil is very good for outboards. Some people use 16 oz for every 10 gallons of gas on a regular basis. Hope this helps. Zack
Whaler4me posted 05-07-2001 12:24 PM ET (US)
I pulled the plugs over the weekend, and sprayed wd-40, then turned the flywheel by hand, no problems at all, it turned just fine.
I do have one question though, the motor has oil injection, should the fuel used to start the motor have oil pre-mixed into it, or should I go with the oil injection on the engine.
After sitting for so long, the oil in the reservoir in the boat, will that be OK or will I need to replace it ??
Tom W Clark posted 05-07-2001 01:09 PM ET (US)
It would probably be best to run it on premix if only to eliminate one possible cause should there be a problem once you get it started. By this I mean if the thing is running and something bad happens and you are trying to deduce what went wrong, at least you know the problem is not bad fuel/oil.
As to the oil in the resevoir, I would replace it. It might be fine but why take the chance? One good reason to use new oil is the oil in the resevoir is probably TCW-II instead of the current standard, TCW-III.
Zack posted 05-07-2001 01:09 PM ET (US)
I have doubled the oil ratio on the first tank to run in the old Mercury. Other than fouling the plugs double oiling will not hurt the engine. It would also give you a chance to be sure the oil injection is working ok. I always tend to be on the safe side of outboard oiling. Just my thoughts. Zack

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Author	Topic: Too Long in Storage
Whaler4me	posted 04-25-2001 05:14 PM ET (US) I have had a Yamaha 150 (1986) sitting in storage for the last 10 years, what suggestions if any do you have for getting this motor back in running order, anyone know of good outboard mechanic in S. FLA
where2	posted 04-25-2001 06:12 PM ET (US) Presuming no particular attention was paid to the engine before storage (like fogging it, and adding a fuel stabilizer to the fuel). I would suggest: rebuild the carbs, replace the gearcase oil, replace the water pump impeller, check the compression, replace any on-engine fuel filter, and run the engine on a small tank of fresh gas with earmuffs before venturing to the ramp to launch. If the engine has been on a boat, drain the fuel tank, refill the tank with fresh gas, replace the fuel filter, check for leaks in the bilge after refilling the tank, add some suitable anti-water fuel additive (in case any water remained in the tank after you emptied it). Get engine running using earmuffs and portable tank, then switch over to on-board tanks, and run for 10-15 minutes using earmuffs. If engine runs off on-board tank for 10-15 minutes, take boat to ramp and launch. Where are you in south florida? (city) "Where2"?
Tom W Clark	posted 04-25-2001 10:13 PM ET (US) where2 offers good advice. I would add that the first thing to do is remove all the spark plugs and squirt some fogging oil (or WD-40 or motor oil or any kind of oil you have) into all the cylinders and turn the flywheel by hand. This will help with that fist 'stroke' of the pistons in a totally 'dry' cylinder. You may find that there is an initial bond caused by corrosion or rust (it takes only a tiny bit) that makes it seem like the engine has seized but fear not, once it is moving anf you're smearing all that oil around in there it will by quite smooth. On intitial start up there will, of course, be a lot of smoke. Don't panic, this is only the oil being burned up and it will clear after a minute of two. I wouldn't automatically rebuild the carbs or replace the impeller because this is a lot of work, and you want to see if the motor runs at all before making that investment. But certainly gearcase oil, filters and grease every grease fitting in sight!
Whaler4me	posted 04-26-2001 09:19 AM ET (US) Thanks for the good words of advice, I will let you know how it comes out.
Chris J	posted 04-27-2001 11:23 AM ET (US) After 10 years of being left dry, I'd say the impeller is probably hard as a rock and will spin off its blades within a few hours of operation. It is probably better to change it that risk getting stuck out on the water. 10 years is a long time but the motor might be in surprisingly good shape. A lot depends on how it was laid up way back then. By the way, does anyone have any suggestions on how to dispose of old 50:1 mixed gas? Sounds good on paper but kind of hard to do when you have 60 gallons or so (a dilemma I face every now and then).
Tom W Clark	posted 04-27-2001 11:40 AM ET (US) Chris J, Here in Seattle we has a hazardous waste disposal program for home owners. They will take virtually anything except explosives. (does anybody know how to get rid of old flares?) I recently took an old six gallon tank of premix and they emptied it for me and gave me back the tank. Our service is free and I don't know of any quantity limit. I have also had the fuel in the tank of one of my boats "polished" by a filtration company and they charged me over $2/gallon to dispose of the residual contaminated gas at a commercial hazardous waste site. 60 gallons would certainly add up! I suggest you call your municipality or county and ask what the accepted method of disposal is.
Zack	posted 04-27-2001 11:47 AM ET (US) I had the same problem with a 1978 Merc 90 that had sat since 1982. As suggested pull the plugs and fill with WD40, let set for couple of weeks. Each day rotate engine by hand for a turn or two. Then remove excess oil by turning over several times. The water impellor needs to be replaced. You have to watch all you fuel lines for leaking, all of mine were leaking and I had to rebuild the fuel pump. I put only a gallon of gas in a can and added 16 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil and a little 50:1 oil for the start up. I turned to engine over several times before I put the plugs back in. I started it in the drive with ear mufflers on it. Ran fine with plenty of water pressure. I ran it on several different days until I had used up all the gas. Marvel Mystery oil is very good for outboards. Some people use 16 oz for every 10 gallons of gas on a regular basis. Hope this helps. Zack
Whaler4me	posted 05-07-2001 12:24 PM ET (US) I pulled the plugs over the weekend, and sprayed wd-40, then turned the flywheel by hand, no problems at all, it turned just fine. I do have one question though, the motor has oil injection, should the fuel used to start the motor have oil pre-mixed into it, or should I go with the oil injection on the engine. After sitting for so long, the oil in the reservoir in the boat, will that be OK or will I need to replace it ??
Tom W Clark	posted 05-07-2001 01:09 PM ET (US) It would probably be best to run it on premix if only to eliminate one possible cause should there be a problem once you get it started. By this I mean if the thing is running and something bad happens and you are trying to deduce what went wrong, at least you know the problem is not bad fuel/oil. As to the oil in the resevoir, I would replace it. It might be fine but why take the chance? One good reason to use new oil is the oil in the resevoir is probably TCW-II instead of the current standard, TCW-III.
Zack	posted 05-07-2001 01:09 PM ET (US) I have doubled the oil ratio on the first tank to run in the old Mercury. Other than fouling the plugs double oiling will not hurt the engine. It would also give you a chance to be sure the oil injection is working ok. I always tend to be on the safe side of outboard oiling. Just my thoughts. Zack