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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Repair of bow laminates; Help! [Was: OW! My broken nose!!!]
|Author||Topic: Repair of bow laminates; Help! [Was: OW! My broken nose!!!]|
posted 05-01-2001 01:34 PM ET (US)
I have a 1963 13' with a crack at the edge of the rubrail by the bow light. I removed the rub rail to fix the crack underneath and of course found a can of worms(small). Starting at the bow light heading to the port side, the 2"(or so) fiberglass facia behind the rubrail is breaking off exposing a piece of wood. The wood isn't wet but a 4' piece (center to port) broke loose. Behind the wood is a hard plaster-like substance, not foam. I want to fill the space where the wood and 2' facia were with filler then paint and put the rub rail back. A fiberglass guy recommende Tiger Hair then Dura Glass? as a finish before the gel coat. Any pointers on the right filler to use and a way to ensure the fix adheres to whats already there? I was going to drill holes in the plaster-like substance and force the Tiger Hair in so I have a bond.
Am I on the right track or on course to de-rail? Should I re-install the rubrail dry or use a caulk?
Feedback is greatly appreciated and anyone interested in assisting is welcome.
posted 05-01-2001 05:01 PM ET (US)
The original White rubrails were glued on, but I am not sure of what type of glue? Regards-Jack Graner.
posted 05-03-2001 08:52 AM ET (US)
It sounds like the wood must be the imbedded wood intended as backing for bow hardware mounting.
I guess you have to decide if you are simply filling a crack, or if you need to make a structural repair.
Epoxy (like West System) is excellent for repairing the laminate because it will produce a stronger bond than polyester resins.
Epoxy also does not dissolve the foam; some polyester resins will melt the foam, which makes them less suitable for repairing areas which expose the foam core. It sounds like your repair may be down to the foam level since you are seeing the imbedded wood.
If you need to restore structural integrity to the damaged area, you will probably have to grind away some of the existing material and lay in some cloth.
The West System Repair Guide ($3) is an excellent guide on how to do this. Its pages and illustrations describe the process far better than I can here.
If the damaged area will be under the rubrail or under the flair of the bow, it may not be too visible when finished, so you don't have to worry about getting a seamless job in making the repair.
As for the rubrail, if it is the original style it is white and is retained by adhesive.
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