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Author Topic:   Blue gelcoat renewal - WOW!!!!!

Chesapeake posted 05-16-2001 02:10 PM ET (US)
Took Larry Goltz' advice regarding renewing the gelcoat on a '69 Nauset and can only exclaim that he is absolutely spot on!! My boat had moderate to heavy oxidation - it looked blue, but chalky and when water hit it, it always pooled and left watermarks.

The process started as Larry counseled -- with Meguiar's 44 Color Restorer - applied with a Porter Cable random orbital polisher and removed with towels. Right there the boat improved 200%. The blue is deep, so deep that I had no idea that was the original color BW had used - it sure is pretty. And... it took very little effort.
Next step was same process with 3M's Finesse-it II finishing material. This polished up everything done in step one. I did notice a little bit of light blue on the orbital pad and a little bit on the terry cloth towels... Not a lot at all, just enough to tell you that you removed a slight amount from the surface. At this point you swear you have a new boat.
Last step is hand application and removal of Collinite's pure fiberglass boat wax. It looks like a clear bottle of beeswax and man does it shine. I must have gone back into the garage about 10 times last night to look at how the interior shined. The wax can be ordered directly from the company and I found that through their web-site. I would imagine that other pure waxes would do ok.
I didn't really want to buy an orbital polisher and thought it would be a waste of money to polish a boat once a year. As I researched I learned that Porter-Cable's variable speed polisher (7424) is also the exact same unit as its sander (7336,) but with a different "head."
As a woodworker, I can always use another sander, particularly a variable speed version. As such, I opted to buy the P-C 97336 sander with dust collection kit. I think I paid about $130 and also bought a few extra polishing pads for about $10 each. This was a great purchase. The time and energy it saved in the boat project was astronomical. Given its VS capability, I have changed wheels and used it on wood projects that required both heavy material removed and those where finished sanding was required -- all while hooked up to a shop vac to eliminate sanding.
So... I am going a bit overboard to suggest to our fellow members of the Classic Boston Whaler Benevolent Society that this setup is one everyone should have. Minor investment with lasting rewards. Good luck on your project. (Shoot, now I feel like Bob Vila).
Thanks, Larry!
Bob (Chesapeake)
lhg posted 05-16-2001 04:30 PM ET (US)
Bob - thanks for your comments, however, as I have said, I can't really take credit for it, since this is Boston Whaler's recommended process for keeping a hull in top condition. We're going to want to see some pictures of your boat one of these days.
But I agree, this method really does work, and keeps my 25 in top condition.
Regarding the last step pure wax, apply that with the power buffer also, then hand polish.
Your floor non-skid can also be brought back
using the orbital buffer with only the #44.
But wipe it right off while wet, and polish it til dry with a heavy towel. Works well, but don't let the compound dry in the grooves!
Chesapeake posted 05-16-2001 07:14 PM ET (US)
Larry: Get on the road already. Fla. beckons.
Seriously, how can you possibly get the polish out of those tight corners of the non-skid. Has whaler changed the non-skid pattern on the newer models (vs. old blue) making cleaning / polishing simpler to facilitate?
Chesapeake posted 05-17-2001 08:04 PM ET (US)
Now that it's waxed, I need to figure out how to de-wax before applying a clam shell with 3M adhesive. Can anyone describe the proper prep?
bogdenk posted 06-05-2006 03:36 PM ET (US)
I recently purchased a 71 13 with blue interior and will need to follow the procedure described above. I own a variable speed polisher and planned to use synthetic whool on the head. I was also going to use a foam pad for the non-skid surface, what would you recommend?
DueNrth posted 06-06-2006 12:45 PM ET (US)
A trick to get the polish out of the non-skid. I use a KIWI horsehair brush for polishing shoes (6 inch)stiff enough to get the semi-dry and dry wax/polish out, and soft enough to not scratch anything. After that I go over the whole thing with my polisher with a wool bonnet.
If you have any "waxy" residue left over, try sprinkling cornstarch on it from a salt shaker. Will attract and dry out whatever is left, and make it a little easier to remove.
The Judge posted 06-06-2006 02:15 PM ET (US)
2 tricks:
If really oxidized, wet sand with 1000 grit first, real quickie like. Then use 3m's heavy duty rubbing compound with an orbital polisher($49 sears 7"). Then collinite's or equiv wax. I have finnesse it($35) and do not think it is necessary on gel-coat. Love it on cars but gel? My old 19' looks like new and the less tseps the better.
For non-skid: do not use a foam pad, it will get eaten up quickly. Use the lambs wool one just like on the sides. I have also used Penetrol on it and that works AWESOME. I do NOT wax the non-skid, kinda defeats the purpose.
pglein posted 06-06-2006 05:28 PM ET (US)
I've always said that most boats that are repainted or regelcoated probably never needed it. Some sand paper, rubbing compound, car wax and a good orbital buffer will do absolute wonders for not just the interior, but also the exterior of the hull.
jimh posted 06-06-2006 07:12 PM ET (US)
3M-Finesse-It-II is about $60 a bottle now. I have not seen results from it that would make me buy another bottle.
The Judge posted 06-07-2006 12:48 PM ET (US)
$60....I'll sell mine on E-Bay! I'm with you Jim, good stuff but not worth the $$$.
Chesapeake posted 06-12-2006 11:47 PM ET (US)
Nick: Is this the same Penetrol that one finds at a paint store? I thought that was a flow additive for oil based paints? Sure would be interested in your comments.
Bob
bsmotril posted 06-13-2006 12:27 PM ET (US)
16 oz of Finesse It II for $14.00
[url]http://www.autogeek.net/3mfiniimacpo.html[\url]
BillS
bogdenk posted 07-09-2006 02:37 PM ET (US)
Well i have taken your guys advice and well was astonished at how the gelcoat came back. wet sanded with 1000 then 2000 and then used 3m medium cut rubbing compound then 3m machine polish, i may apply a boat wax over it to make it really shine.
Only problem i had was that the blue-nonskid would not come back with medium cut rubbing compound and my whool circular polisher. The non-skid design on older whalers may be harder to clean up than the new. penetrol was recommended, but why would that work i thought it was a paint additive and leveling agent. I am going to try a heavier rubbing compound any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks to all who have replied to this and previous posts.
Not So Salty posted 11-10-2006 11:31 PM ET (US)
I am in the process of reconditioning a 68 13' and folloed the instructions of the gentleman who started this string. I used much of his information and I must say that the result have been outstanding. Even getting the floors back to new wasn't all that tough. Thanks to everyone for their insights.
Not So Salty
bdreaper123 posted 11-11-2006 01:39 PM ET (US)
If you use 3M Finnese it correctly it works awesome for getting that deep shine to come out. It is worth the extra money.
Pumpnhard posted 01-09-2007 10:11 AM ET (US)
where do you find the miguires product???
bsmotril posted 01-10-2007 12:18 PM ET (US)
BoatersWorld and West Marine both carry it here in TX.
bigpat posted 01-10-2007 01:01 PM ET (US)
this is an interesting topic. my 1976 13' whaler was oxidized heavily inside and out when i bought it 2 yrs ago. i bought the orbiatal 7" polisher at west marine and applied meguiar's oxidation remover. once it was cured and carefully buffed off, i waited a day , then applied 2 coats of tr-3 resin glaze. this is a thick liquid polish and you don't need to use a lot of it. the boat is small, and i applied it by hand, then hand buffed it with a clean white bath towel. man alive, it looks awesome. the resin glaze seals and protects the gelcoat and has shown no signs of diminished lustre. i use it on my motorcyle and new tundra truck as well with excellent results. give it a try--about $6.00/can at autozone or kragen. if you apply it once a year as i have done, the boat will be bristol. it is also awesome for brightwork/railings/outboard cowlings, etc.
waveoff15 posted 02-02-2007 11:12 AM ET (US)
Great info on this thread that may save me $ and time, as I thought I would be re-gelcoating inside and out of my '70 13' that I bought last fall. My question is if anyone who has one of the polisher/sanders knows if that equipment will work well to clean up some areas that I need to clean up and reglass on the hull. The reference articles usually refer to using an angle grinder for problem areas, but I was wondering if with the right head I could use it on the hull and then switch over an use it on the interior. Big project that makes me long for my 15' SS that I sold last year.
jgkmmoore posted 02-15-2007 05:30 PM ET (US)
Finesse it II works very well if applied with a high speed or DA sander/polisher. Hand application is hard to make come out even.Best used for light oxidation and scratches.Gives a wet look finish.You must continue to work it until it is polished. If you stop polishing while it is hazed, it hasn't finished its work.Think of it as chalk dust that self destructs down to nothing as you work it.
Penetrol- Try it, you'll like it.Good color restorer, and for middle of season dressup. Rub it on, wait 5 minutes, buff it off. Cinchy.Works best on colors.Kinda iffy on white...a bit uneven.Excellent for hard to reach areas. Immediate results.Good stuff to have around the house....a small can may last you 20 years.Good with spar varnish..levels it nicely.
jgkmmoore posted 02-15-2007 05:54 PM ET (US)
BTW- Finesse it II is $15 bucks at the Schucks store. Boaters World is a couple $ more.16 oz bottle.Will do an 18 footer 3 times at least, in and outsides.
Starbrites (cheap graphics)Premium Teflon Marine Polish is very glossy(wet look)and applies/buffs easily.Tough stuff....will bead water and hold shine for at least 2 seasons.Slippery on deck surfaces tho. Requires 2 applications 30 days apart.Inconvenient, but well worth the trouble.On horizontal black surfaces it needs to be repeated about once a year tho,to preserve blackness.Boaters World Premium Teflon Polish is same product for less money. I use this stuff for personal and show cars. My 56 Nomad (black/gold) took blue ribbon for 'paint' for several years in antique Chev Shows.Anything that makes black look good is worth keeping.Sold that car only because someone offered an embarrassing amount of money.
smirkless posted 02-16-2007 10:23 PM ET (US)
Agree with The Judge & jgkmmoore, Penetrol first. Anyone that uses other methods has never tried Penetrol. To answer a question above, its a lin seed oil product, not petrolium based. While you are splashing it around, try it on black rubber or plastic, try it on your lower unit crusty paint. It like heals the problems. You can almost hear the old glass, plastic and paint go "Ahhhhhhhhhhh!
No, I dont sell the stuff. Smirk

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Author	Topic: Blue gelcoat renewal - WOW!!!!!
Chesapeake	posted 05-16-2001 02:10 PM ET (US) Took Larry Goltz' advice regarding renewing the gelcoat on a '69 Nauset and can only exclaim that he is absolutely spot on!! My boat had moderate to heavy oxidation - it looked blue, but chalky and when water hit it, it always pooled and left watermarks. The process started as Larry counseled -- with Meguiar's 44 Color Restorer - applied with a Porter Cable random orbital polisher and removed with towels. Right there the boat improved 200%. The blue is deep, so deep that I had no idea that was the original color BW had used - it sure is pretty. And... it took very little effort. Next step was same process with 3M's Finesse-it II finishing material. This polished up everything done in step one. I did notice a little bit of light blue on the orbital pad and a little bit on the terry cloth towels... Not a lot at all, just enough to tell you that you removed a slight amount from the surface. At this point you swear you have a new boat. Last step is hand application and removal of Collinite's pure fiberglass boat wax. It looks like a clear bottle of beeswax and man does it shine. I must have gone back into the garage about 10 times last night to look at how the interior shined. The wax can be ordered directly from the company and I found that through their web-site. I would imagine that other pure waxes would do ok. I didn't really want to buy an orbital polisher and thought it would be a waste of money to polish a boat once a year. As I researched I learned that Porter-Cable's variable speed polisher (7424) is also the exact same unit as its sander (7336,) but with a different "head." As a woodworker, I can always use another sander, particularly a variable speed version. As such, I opted to buy the P-C 97336 sander with dust collection kit. I think I paid about $130 and also bought a few extra polishing pads for about $10 each. This was a great purchase. The time and energy it saved in the boat project was astronomical. Given its VS capability, I have changed wheels and used it on wood projects that required both heavy material removed and those where finished sanding was required -- all while hooked up to a shop vac to eliminate sanding. So... I am going a bit overboard to suggest to our fellow members of the Classic Boston Whaler Benevolent Society that this setup is one everyone should have. Minor investment with lasting rewards. Good luck on your project. (Shoot, now I feel like Bob Vila). Thanks, Larry! Bob (Chesapeake)
lhg	posted 05-16-2001 04:30 PM ET (US) Bob - thanks for your comments, however, as I have said, I can't really take credit for it, since this is Boston Whaler's recommended process for keeping a hull in top condition. We're going to want to see some pictures of your boat one of these days. But I agree, this method really does work, and keeps my 25 in top condition. Regarding the last step pure wax, apply that with the power buffer also, then hand polish. Your floor non-skid can also be brought back using the orbital buffer with only the #44. But wipe it right off while wet, and polish it til dry with a heavy towel. Works well, but don't let the compound dry in the grooves!
Chesapeake	posted 05-16-2001 07:14 PM ET (US) Larry: Get on the road already. Fla. beckons. Seriously, how can you possibly get the polish out of those tight corners of the non-skid. Has whaler changed the non-skid pattern on the newer models (vs. old blue) making cleaning / polishing simpler to facilitate?
Chesapeake	posted 05-17-2001 08:04 PM ET (US) Now that it's waxed, I need to figure out how to de-wax before applying a clam shell with 3M adhesive. Can anyone describe the proper prep?
bogdenk	posted 06-05-2006 03:36 PM ET (US) I recently purchased a 71 13 with blue interior and will need to follow the procedure described above. I own a variable speed polisher and planned to use synthetic whool on the head. I was also going to use a foam pad for the non-skid surface, what would you recommend?
DueNrth	posted 06-06-2006 12:45 PM ET (US) A trick to get the polish out of the non-skid. I use a KIWI horsehair brush for polishing shoes (6 inch)stiff enough to get the semi-dry and dry wax/polish out, and soft enough to not scratch anything. After that I go over the whole thing with my polisher with a wool bonnet. If you have any "waxy" residue left over, try sprinkling cornstarch on it from a salt shaker. Will attract and dry out whatever is left, and make it a little easier to remove.
The Judge	posted 06-06-2006 02:15 PM ET (US) 2 tricks: If really oxidized, wet sand with 1000 grit first, real quickie like. Then use 3m's heavy duty rubbing compound with an orbital polisher($49 sears 7"). Then collinite's or equiv wax. I have finnesse it($35) and do not think it is necessary on gel-coat. Love it on cars but gel? My old 19' looks like new and the less tseps the better. For non-skid: do not use a foam pad, it will get eaten up quickly. Use the lambs wool one just like on the sides. I have also used Penetrol on it and that works AWESOME. I do NOT wax the non-skid, kinda defeats the purpose.
pglein	posted 06-06-2006 05:28 PM ET (US) I've always said that most boats that are repainted or regelcoated probably never needed it. Some sand paper, rubbing compound, car wax and a good orbital buffer will do absolute wonders for not just the interior, but also the exterior of the hull.
jimh	posted 06-06-2006 07:12 PM ET (US) 3M-Finesse-It-II is about $60 a bottle now. I have not seen results from it that would make me buy another bottle.
The Judge	posted 06-07-2006 12:48 PM ET (US) $60....I'll sell mine on E-Bay! I'm with you Jim, good stuff but not worth the $$$.
Chesapeake	posted 06-12-2006 11:47 PM ET (US) Nick: Is this the same Penetrol that one finds at a paint store? I thought that was a flow additive for oil based paints? Sure would be interested in your comments. Bob
bsmotril	posted 06-13-2006 12:27 PM ET (US) 16 oz of Finesse It II for $14.00 [url]http://www.autogeek.net/3mfiniimacpo.html[\url] BillS
bogdenk	posted 07-09-2006 02:37 PM ET (US) Well i have taken your guys advice and well was astonished at how the gelcoat came back. wet sanded with 1000 then 2000 and then used 3m medium cut rubbing compound then 3m machine polish, i may apply a boat wax over it to make it really shine. Only problem i had was that the blue-nonskid would not come back with medium cut rubbing compound and my whool circular polisher. The non-skid design on older whalers may be harder to clean up than the new. penetrol was recommended, but why would that work i thought it was a paint additive and leveling agent. I am going to try a heavier rubbing compound any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks to all who have replied to this and previous posts.
Not So Salty	posted 11-10-2006 11:31 PM ET (US) I am in the process of reconditioning a 68 13' and folloed the instructions of the gentleman who started this string. I used much of his information and I must say that the result have been outstanding. Even getting the floors back to new wasn't all that tough. Thanks to everyone for their insights. Not So Salty
bdreaper123	posted 11-11-2006 01:39 PM ET (US) If you use 3M Finnese it correctly it works awesome for getting that deep shine to come out. It is worth the extra money.
Pumpnhard	posted 01-09-2007 10:11 AM ET (US) where do you find the miguires product???
bsmotril	posted 01-10-2007 12:18 PM ET (US) BoatersWorld and West Marine both carry it here in TX.
bigpat	posted 01-10-2007 01:01 PM ET (US) this is an interesting topic. my 1976 13' whaler was oxidized heavily inside and out when i bought it 2 yrs ago. i bought the orbiatal 7" polisher at west marine and applied meguiar's oxidation remover. once it was cured and carefully buffed off, i waited a day , then applied 2 coats of tr-3 resin glaze. this is a thick liquid polish and you don't need to use a lot of it. the boat is small, and i applied it by hand, then hand buffed it with a clean white bath towel. man alive, it looks awesome. the resin glaze seals and protects the gelcoat and has shown no signs of diminished lustre. i use it on my motorcyle and new tundra truck as well with excellent results. give it a try--about $6.00/can at autozone or kragen. if you apply it once a year as i have done, the boat will be bristol. it is also awesome for brightwork/railings/outboard cowlings, etc.
waveoff15	posted 02-02-2007 11:12 AM ET (US) Great info on this thread that may save me $ and time, as I thought I would be re-gelcoating inside and out of my '70 13' that I bought last fall. My question is if anyone who has one of the polisher/sanders knows if that equipment will work well to clean up some areas that I need to clean up and reglass on the hull. The reference articles usually refer to using an angle grinder for problem areas, but I was wondering if with the right head I could use it on the hull and then switch over an use it on the interior. Big project that makes me long for my 15' SS that I sold last year.
jgkmmoore	posted 02-15-2007 05:30 PM ET (US) Finesse it II works very well if applied with a high speed or DA sander/polisher. Hand application is hard to make come out even.Best used for light oxidation and scratches.Gives a wet look finish.You must continue to work it until it is polished. If you stop polishing while it is hazed, it hasn't finished its work.Think of it as chalk dust that self destructs down to nothing as you work it. Penetrol- Try it, you'll like it.Good color restorer, and for middle of season dressup. Rub it on, wait 5 minutes, buff it off. Cinchy.Works best on colors.Kinda iffy on white...a bit uneven.Excellent for hard to reach areas. Immediate results.Good stuff to have around the house....a small can may last you 20 years.Good with spar varnish..levels it nicely.
jgkmmoore	posted 02-15-2007 05:54 PM ET (US) BTW- Finesse it II is $15 bucks at the Schucks store. Boaters World is a couple $ more.16 oz bottle.Will do an 18 footer 3 times at least, in and outsides. Starbrites (cheap graphics)Premium Teflon Marine Polish is very glossy(wet look)and applies/buffs easily.Tough stuff....will bead water and hold shine for at least 2 seasons.Slippery on deck surfaces tho. Requires 2 applications 30 days apart.Inconvenient, but well worth the trouble.On horizontal black surfaces it needs to be repeated about once a year tho,to preserve blackness.Boaters World Premium Teflon Polish is same product for less money. I use this stuff for personal and show cars. My 56 Nomad (black/gold) took blue ribbon for 'paint' for several years in antique Chev Shows.Anything that makes black look good is worth keeping.Sold that car only because someone offered an embarrassing amount of money.
smirkless	posted 02-16-2007 10:23 PM ET (US) Agree with The Judge & jgkmmoore, Penetrol first. Anyone that uses other methods has never tried Penetrol. To answer a question above, its a lin seed oil product, not petrolium based. While you are splashing it around, try it on black rubber or plastic, try it on your lower unit crusty paint. It like heals the problems. You can almost hear the old glass, plastic and paint go "Ahhhhhhhhhhh! No, I dont sell the stuff. Smirk