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Author Topic:   Screws in fiberglass

browning20ga posted 08-08-2001 01:54 AM ET (US)
I'm building a new console in my 1974 13'er. I've taken out the middle seat and built a matching console to hold a small porta-potty for the port side. My question is if I drill a small pilot hole and don't hit wood (I've studied the 13' wood location drawings) Is there any type of screw anchor that should be used or just crank in a #8 or #10 stainless screw???
Darrell
LarrySherman posted 08-08-2001 07:28 AM ET (US)
Darrell,
If the screw must be located where there is not wood, and it looks like the area mightn not support the screw, you need to reinforce the area first. Very easy to do, and is well described in most West System manuals.
AndyG has posted about it often as well.
Take a bent finish nail, stick in in the chuck of your drill. Stick the bent head throught the hole, and rotate to clear a void. Vaccume hole. Now mix up some epoxy and fairing compound (I think 406 Collida Silica here, but check the application guidlines on the back of the cans), and pour it into the hole. When dry, drill for screw.
whalerron posted 08-08-2001 08:24 AM ET (US)
One word of warning. Fiberglass is flexible and if the screw will have any substantial force pulling on it, you run the risk of pulling the fiberglass away from the foam. This is not a good thing.
- ron
LarrySherman posted 08-08-2001 08:28 AM ET (US)
Ron has a VERY good point there.
Bigshot posted 08-08-2001 09:59 AM ET (US)
To hell with the screw holes! What's up with the outhouse? Who is gonna use it? I know my wife would'nt and as a guy, well.... Need to know about this Darrell.
whalerron posted 08-08-2001 11:49 AM ET (US)
I missed that part! Geez, a portapotty on a 13 footer. You would get about as much privacy as hanging over the edge...
Bigshot posted 08-08-2001 11:59 AM ET (US)
Ye old 5gal bucket works too.
lhg posted 08-08-2001 02:19 PM ET (US)
The non-plywood/whalerboard backed skin on any Whaler will only support LIGHT DUTY fasteners, like wire hangers, fuel filters, canvas clips, etc. Consoles and seats don't qualify as light duty.
Making a 1 1/2" round "Molly" type plug fastener like West System recommends is a BAD idea for a Whaler, except for light duty. (Almost all of West's techniques are not suited for Whalers) You will "pop" (delaminate) the skin from the foam, destroying hull integrity, if there is any withdrawl force at all. With a Whaler, the bond between foam and skin is the whole show. There is nothing else to hold the boat together.
browning20ga posted 08-08-2001 08:24 PM ET (US)
Ya-Ya-Ya, I knew I'd get a rise out of you guys for this one, an old coffee can works fine for me, but I hate to go to the beach when the little lady has the urge. I made a little roll-up curtain to hang from the bimini.
I guess I'll have to do some more engineering on this one.
Thanks for helping out a rookie, I appreciate and will heed the warnings and tips.
Darrell

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Author	Topic: Screws in fiberglass
browning20ga	posted 08-08-2001 01:54 AM ET (US) I'm building a new console in my 1974 13'er. I've taken out the middle seat and built a matching console to hold a small porta-potty for the port side. My question is if I drill a small pilot hole and don't hit wood (I've studied the 13' wood location drawings) Is there any type of screw anchor that should be used or just crank in a #8 or #10 stainless screw??? Darrell
LarrySherman	posted 08-08-2001 07:28 AM ET (US) Darrell, If the screw must be located where there is not wood, and it looks like the area mightn not support the screw, you need to reinforce the area first. Very easy to do, and is well described in most West System manuals. AndyG has posted about it often as well. Take a bent finish nail, stick in in the chuck of your drill. Stick the bent head throught the hole, and rotate to clear a void. Vaccume hole. Now mix up some epoxy and fairing compound (I think 406 Collida Silica here, but check the application guidlines on the back of the cans), and pour it into the hole. When dry, drill for screw.
whalerron	posted 08-08-2001 08:24 AM ET (US) One word of warning. Fiberglass is flexible and if the screw will have any substantial force pulling on it, you run the risk of pulling the fiberglass away from the foam. This is not a good thing. - ron
LarrySherman	posted 08-08-2001 08:28 AM ET (US) Ron has a VERY good point there.
Bigshot	posted 08-08-2001 09:59 AM ET (US) To hell with the screw holes! What's up with the outhouse? Who is gonna use it? I know my wife would'nt and as a guy, well.... Need to know about this Darrell.
whalerron	posted 08-08-2001 11:49 AM ET (US) I missed that part! Geez, a portapotty on a 13 footer. You would get about as much privacy as hanging over the edge...
Bigshot	posted 08-08-2001 11:59 AM ET (US) Ye old 5gal bucket works too.
lhg	posted 08-08-2001 02:19 PM ET (US) The non-plywood/whalerboard backed skin on any Whaler will only support LIGHT DUTY fasteners, like wire hangers, fuel filters, canvas clips, etc. Consoles and seats don't qualify as light duty. Making a 1 1/2" round "Molly" type plug fastener like West System recommends is a BAD idea for a Whaler, except for light duty. (Almost all of West's techniques are not suited for Whalers) You will "pop" (delaminate) the skin from the foam, destroying hull integrity, if there is any withdrawl force at all. With a Whaler, the bond between foam and skin is the whole show. There is nothing else to hold the boat together.
browning20ga	posted 08-08-2001 08:24 PM ET (US) Ya-Ya-Ya, I knew I'd get a rise out of you guys for this one, an old coffee can works fine for me, but I hate to go to the beach when the little lady has the urge. I made a little roll-up curtain to hang from the bimini. I guess I'll have to do some more engineering on this one. Thanks for helping out a rookie, I appreciate and will heed the warnings and tips. Darrell