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Author Topic:   Bow Rail Install

vermilionwhalers posted 09-17-2001 06:37 PM ET (US)
I just got a new bow rail for my 15 Sport and have run into a problem. After drilling into the railing with a 5/32 bit I could not get the #10 screws started. Going to a 3/16 was too big. What do I need? Cutting oil? Tap the hole? Find a 11/64 bit?
Thanks for any help.
Doug Johnson
LarrySherman posted 09-17-2001 08:54 PM ET (US)
I'd get several taps for the machine screws you need, and break out the cutting oil. Change taps frequently.
vermilionwhalers posted 09-18-2001 08:58 AM ET (US)
Thanks, Larry. Heading to the tool and dye store today....
jellisfeingold posted 09-18-2001 02:53 PM ET (US)
Yep, need to tap. i just installed CMI bow rail on my 15' sport and drilled and tapped every hole. Pain, but it went together like a charm, and sturdy as you'd want it. Also, use lock-tite on the threads.
TightPenny posted 09-18-2001 05:23 PM ET (US)
Whaler just replaced the #10 screws on my Montauk with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the phenolic pieces under the glass to deal with an underdesign issue for rough water useage.
Tapping is the way to go.
vermilionwhalers posted 09-19-2001 03:41 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the advice! 2 taps down, 10 to go... What a lot of work! Hands are turning into hamburger. Oh well it's going to look great by the time the snow flies!!!
In case anyone is interested, I ended up using a 10-24 tap for the 1/2" screws CMI sent me (looks like orig. Whaler equipment) after first drilling an 11/64 pilot hole (use those heavy-duty drill bits). 5/32 too small, 3/16 too big. Loc-tite is available @ Home Depot (probably other places too). Also CMI has a post location diagram if you ask them for it.

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Author	Topic: Bow Rail Install
vermilionwhalers	posted 09-17-2001 06:37 PM ET (US) I just got a new bow rail for my 15 Sport and have run into a problem. After drilling into the railing with a 5/32 bit I could not get the #10 screws started. Going to a 3/16 was too big. What do I need? Cutting oil? Tap the hole? Find a 11/64 bit? Thanks for any help. Doug Johnson
LarrySherman	posted 09-17-2001 08:54 PM ET (US) I'd get several taps for the machine screws you need, and break out the cutting oil. Change taps frequently.
vermilionwhalers	posted 09-18-2001 08:58 AM ET (US) Thanks, Larry. Heading to the tool and dye store today....
jellisfeingold	posted 09-18-2001 02:53 PM ET (US) Yep, need to tap. i just installed CMI bow rail on my 15' sport and drilled and tapped every hole. Pain, but it went together like a charm, and sturdy as you'd want it. Also, use lock-tite on the threads.
TightPenny	posted 09-18-2001 05:23 PM ET (US) Whaler just replaced the #10 screws on my Montauk with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the phenolic pieces under the glass to deal with an underdesign issue for rough water useage. Tapping is the way to go.
vermilionwhalers	posted 09-19-2001 03:41 PM ET (US) Thanks for the advice! 2 taps down, 10 to go... What a lot of work! Hands are turning into hamburger. Oh well it's going to look great by the time the snow flies!!! In case anyone is interested, I ended up using a 10-24 tap for the 1/2" screws CMI sent me (looks like orig. Whaler equipment) after first drilling an 11/64 pilot hole (use those heavy-duty drill bits). 5/32 too small, 3/16 too big. Loc-tite is available @ Home Depot (probably other places too). Also CMI has a post location diagram if you ask them for it.