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Author Topic:   Winterizing the Whaler (not the engine)

jimh posted 10-31-2001 12:25 AM ET (US)
We had a good discussion regarding what needs to be done to outboard engines when laying up for the winter. ( http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/001212.html )
What needs to be done to the boat for winter layup? Here is the start of the list, a few things I do, but please join in with your suggestions or comments.
Winter Lay Up of Whaler Hull
-----------------------------
--be sure the boat is sitting square on the trailer and it well supported. Verify that boat is resting on keel rollers and is symmetical about centerline. If necessary go back to ramp and reload.
--wash hull, topsides, and cockpit with mild boat soap. Remove scum lines and water marks from all hull surfaces. Remove any road grease from trailering, etc.
--remove cushions from cabin (store in house). Remove seat cushions, cockpit bolsters, so you can work on them over the winter.
--flush motor well, flush bilge sump. Remove all drain plugs (my boat has five!). Check drain plugs for corroded brass; spray with WD-40 to loosen up threads. Store drain plugs with the engine keys so you can find them both at the same moment in the Spring.
--scrub cockpit floor; try to remove those stubborn marks in the non-skid.
--check hatches and ports for proper sealing. If storing outdoor, close all hatches and ports. If storing indoors, leave appropriate hatches or ports open to permit air circulation in cabin.
--if storing indoors, remove access plates from interior hull space areas so they can vent out moisture.
--set main battery switches to OFF.
--remove batteries and store in heated area of home. DO NOT PUT BATTERIES ON CONCRETE (just kidding).
What else? Any suggestions?
Tsuriki BW posted 10-31-2001 04:21 AM ET (US)
Don't do a lot of "winterizing" as I use the Dauntless all year round, BUT... a few ideas
Scrub off your bumpers and check for inflation..
Soak your lines in a mixture of soap and water to remove any oil residue and the coil up loosly and hang to dry.
If your batteries have water caps, check and fill. Clean the terminals with a brush and apply WD40.
Remove any electronics and store inside.
Apply WD40 to paper towel and then attach to cable connectors with a rubber band.
Apply a "cleaner wax to stainless steel rails and let "set" (wipe off in the spring)
Lube wheel bearings, check lights on the trailer.
Put a "drying agent" pack in the CC to prevent mold.
Double check all electrical connections and if necessary brush with baking soda then spray with WD40 (I need to do this with my electric downrigger sockets) Don't forget your stern light pole.
If possible, periodically turn on your switch and lights to remove moisture from light lenses and meter lenses.
Check all screws to be sure they are tight, rails, brackets etc.
Remove and scrub down canvas and hang to dry. Check all canvas mount aluminum frames for corrosion and clean and lube as necessary.
Make a spare copy of all keys, ignition, locker, trailer, if you don't have them.
Check dates on batteries, flares, fire extinguisher and update as necessary,
'bout all I can think of right now.
Tsuriki
LKS posted 10-31-2001 01:50 PM ET (US)
Prop open cooler and front storage compartment lids with a small pieces of wood. This will help prevent condensation and mildew growth during temperature changes.
Add a few mothballs or mothball cake to engine compartment; if no engine compartment, put a few mothballs in a container (empty butter tub works well) and place in a central location -- helps to keep the critters out. (Apologies to those who've seen me post this suggestion before. If you've ever seen the damage muskrats, raccoons, and even birds do while nesting over the winter, you understand why I've placed mothballs on this list. Hopefully, this suggestion will help someone out before it's too late.)
jimp posted 10-31-2001 06:37 PM ET (US)
All great ideas. I use several covers on my Revenge 22 (heavy canvas, that adds weight to resist wind, and poly tarps to let the snow slide off easily). I always leave a large gap with overhang fore and aft (several square feet). This lets the air circulate and minimizes rain/snow coming in. I had a shrink wrap cover on my '82 Montauk, after the first winter season, I added vents fore & aft to prevent mildew. Southeast Alaska is a tough climate in the winter (Oct-March) as temps range from 45F to -15F, snow and rain (snain). Fluctuations cause things to "grow" inside the boat unless it can air out.
Dick E posted 10-31-2001 07:22 PM ET (US)
Jack up your trailer so your tires are off the ground.
Put blocks under for bracing. Let tires down but keep them off the ground.
This stop flat spots on your tires.
whalerron posted 10-31-2001 11:49 PM ET (US)
Give the boat a good coat of wax before putting it to bed for the winter. This really makes the boat easy to clean when you pull out in the spring.

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Author	Topic: Winterizing the Whaler (not the engine)
jimh	posted 10-31-2001 12:25 AM ET (US) We had a good discussion regarding what needs to be done to outboard engines when laying up for the winter. ( http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/001212.html ) What needs to be done to the boat for winter layup? Here is the start of the list, a few things I do, but please join in with your suggestions or comments. Winter Lay Up of Whaler Hull ----------------------------- --be sure the boat is sitting square on the trailer and it well supported. Verify that boat is resting on keel rollers and is symmetical about centerline. If necessary go back to ramp and reload. --wash hull, topsides, and cockpit with mild boat soap. Remove scum lines and water marks from all hull surfaces. Remove any road grease from trailering, etc. --remove cushions from cabin (store in house). Remove seat cushions, cockpit bolsters, so you can work on them over the winter. --flush motor well, flush bilge sump. Remove all drain plugs (my boat has five!). Check drain plugs for corroded brass; spray with WD-40 to loosen up threads. Store drain plugs with the engine keys so you can find them both at the same moment in the Spring. --scrub cockpit floor; try to remove those stubborn marks in the non-skid. --check hatches and ports for proper sealing. If storing outdoor, close all hatches and ports. If storing indoors, leave appropriate hatches or ports open to permit air circulation in cabin. --if storing indoors, remove access plates from interior hull space areas so they can vent out moisture. --set main battery switches to OFF. --remove batteries and store in heated area of home. DO NOT PUT BATTERIES ON CONCRETE (just kidding). What else? Any suggestions?
Tsuriki BW	posted 10-31-2001 04:21 AM ET (US) Don't do a lot of "winterizing" as I use the Dauntless all year round, BUT... a few ideas Scrub off your bumpers and check for inflation.. Soak your lines in a mixture of soap and water to remove any oil residue and the coil up loosly and hang to dry. If your batteries have water caps, check and fill. Clean the terminals with a brush and apply WD40. Remove any electronics and store inside. Apply WD40 to paper towel and then attach to cable connectors with a rubber band. Apply a "cleaner wax to stainless steel rails and let "set" (wipe off in the spring) Lube wheel bearings, check lights on the trailer. Put a "drying agent" pack in the CC to prevent mold. Double check all electrical connections and if necessary brush with baking soda then spray with WD40 (I need to do this with my electric downrigger sockets) Don't forget your stern light pole. If possible, periodically turn on your switch and lights to remove moisture from light lenses and meter lenses. Check all screws to be sure they are tight, rails, brackets etc. Remove and scrub down canvas and hang to dry. Check all canvas mount aluminum frames for corrosion and clean and lube as necessary. Make a spare copy of all keys, ignition, locker, trailer, if you don't have them. Check dates on batteries, flares, fire extinguisher and update as necessary, 'bout all I can think of right now. Tsuriki
LKS	posted 10-31-2001 01:50 PM ET (US) Prop open cooler and front storage compartment lids with a small pieces of wood. This will help prevent condensation and mildew growth during temperature changes. Add a few mothballs or mothball cake to engine compartment; if no engine compartment, put a few mothballs in a container (empty butter tub works well) and place in a central location -- helps to keep the critters out. (Apologies to those who've seen me post this suggestion before. If you've ever seen the damage muskrats, raccoons, and even birds do while nesting over the winter, you understand why I've placed mothballs on this list. Hopefully, this suggestion will help someone out before it's too late.)
jimp	posted 10-31-2001 06:37 PM ET (US) All great ideas. I use several covers on my Revenge 22 (heavy canvas, that adds weight to resist wind, and poly tarps to let the snow slide off easily). I always leave a large gap with overhang fore and aft (several square feet). This lets the air circulate and minimizes rain/snow coming in. I had a shrink wrap cover on my '82 Montauk, after the first winter season, I added vents fore & aft to prevent mildew. Southeast Alaska is a tough climate in the winter (Oct-March) as temps range from 45F to -15F, snow and rain (snain). Fluctuations cause things to "grow" inside the boat unless it can air out.
Dick E	posted 10-31-2001 07:22 PM ET (US) Jack up your trailer so your tires are off the ground. Put blocks under for bracing. Let tires down but keep them off the ground. This stop flat spots on your tires.
whalerron	posted 10-31-2001 11:49 PM ET (US) Give the boat a good coat of wax before putting it to bed for the winter. This really makes the boat easy to clean when you pull out in the spring.