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Author Topic:   Jack Plates

JC posted 11-08-2001 12:10 PM ET (US)
I am looking to put a jack plate on a 1960 13' in order to accomodate a 20" shaft. I was looking for any experience with installs and who manufactures a good product at a reasonable price. Thanks Jon
Highwater posted 11-08-2001 12:32 PM ET (US)
Check out the Cook Manufacturing Company, http://www.cook-mfg.com/.
It seems to me that the ideal set up would be to put use both their vertical extensions AND a jack plate like the PT-130. The vertical extension will get you up to where you would have been with a 20" transom, and the jack plate will allow you to raise the motor even higher for operating in shallow water. The jack plate goes on first, then then vertical extensions go on it. Or you could just use the vertical extensions by themselves, which would be cheaper and would not add as much rear end weight.
Please post the results of your installation as I believe that several members of this forum are considering various means of affixing an outboard with a 20" shaft to a pre-1973 13' Whaler with a 15" transom.
lhg posted 11-08-2001 01:13 PM ET (US)
I would recommend the product made by Springfield Marine, sold by Cabela's in a 6" setback version for about $250.
My reason is that it will look much smaller on the boat than the CMC unit, although both are of equally high quality and one piece design (important). The CMC unit is very wide, wider than the engine bracket, whereas the Springfield unit is much narrower and appears U shaped, with plates to mount to the boat and engine, when seen from the side. Considering the slight curve of the 13 transom, the Springfield unit will fit better. It may still need some shimming however, to accomodate the hull curve. See the "Brackets" article on this site for pictures of these Springfield brackets on my 18 Outrage. In Rendesvous, there is a picture of a 21 Walkaround with one of these also.
Bass Pro shops shows a "Rite Hite" brand that is similarly designed.
Highwater posted 11-08-2001 01:49 PM ET (US)
LHG, would you happen to have a web site address for Cabella's? Thanks.
Taylor posted 11-08-2001 06:50 PM ET (US)
Hyperlinkto Cabelas.
Taylor posted 11-08-2001 06:59 PM ET (US)
Cool site, Cabelas. While I was there I noticed this following product that *looks* as if it might also meet JC's need, if cost is an object: Its the 'Mini-Jacker Motor Bracket' Item: IB-012346 Price: $64.99. Gotta love the cost.

Here is what they say...
Mini-Jacker Motor Bracket -
Designed for outboard motors up to 35 hp, this cast-aluminum offset-type plate actually improves the performance and handling of small, light boats. Great for clamping kicker motors on boats where access is limited. Also allows mounting of long-shaft motors to short-shaft transom boats. Once installed, the unit stands off the transom 4". Engine mounting surface is 11-1/2"W x 10"H and features a vertical offset of 3".
Overall width: 17".
Highwater posted 11-08-2001 09:51 PM ET (US)
LHG—the $250 Springfield unit looks nice except that it only raises the engine 3-and-a-half inches. It might be better to use a solution that would raise the motor a full five inches. What do you think?
Taylor—the Mini Jacker has a great price but I wonder if it would be risky to use it with a 40 or 50 hp engine? Probably not a good idea.
jimh posted 11-08-2001 11:19 PM ET (US)
Regarding the Springfield Marine setback brackets:
About two years ago Springfield Marine had a very intense fire in their foundry which destroyed the facility along with much of their tooling. The tooling for making the setback brackets was lost in this fire. As a result, they no longer make them. Cabelas does have some still in stock, but they don't always list them in their printed catalogues.
Get them while you can!
13whaler1965 posted 11-09-2001 06:04 AM ET (US)
JC, I have a mini-jack plate that came from Bobs Machine in s. fl. on my boat. So far it works great with a mariner 30. It is non adjusting so when you bolt it on make sure it is where you want it. It is built for a flat transom and the whaler has a curved one, so when you attach it you have to caulk around the edges with 5200.
lhg posted 11-09-2001 03:08 PM ET (US)
Highwater, the Springfield, and most other jackplates, can easily accomplish the needed 5" height. Actually, I think the unit itself can easily be raised 4", but remember, with the 5 holes on most engine brackets, there is another (4 x 3/4") 3" of adjustment with the engine (I know Mercs have these five bolt holes). So you can really go as high as needed. I would mount the engine in the fifth hole to the bracket plate, then use the adjustable setting on the bracket to achieve corrent running height.
Highwater posted 11-09-2001 08:49 PM ET (US)
Thanks for explaining that to me, lhg. Even if I don't repower, I might want to go ahead and secure a bracket. Right now my engine is mounted three-and-a-half inches above the top of the transom, with the top mounting bolt being just a half inch below the top of the transom. So the engine (40 hp Johnson) is hanging on air, and has been like this since it was installed, which I believe was 1987.
JC posted 11-09-2001 10:47 PM ET (US)
Ihg, I have talked to a couple of people who have had one and two piece jack plates by different manufactures. And they have mentioned problems with splash comming up through and around the plate and affecting engine performance ie. water in carb ect. Some had build their own splash guard while others recommended purchasing a manfactures product. To your knowledge is this a problem with the springfield Jack Plate. JC
RHLOOS posted 11-10-2001 09:44 AM ET (US)
In the Spring I installed a Fixed Vertical Jackplate on my 1966- 13' Whaler with a new Yamaha 25h.p. 4-Stroke. I would recommend! The only way I could get PT&T and a 4-Stroke was with a jackplate. The only complication was the curvature of the transom, which was solved by using "Lexan" as a continous vertical shim on the outside of the plates.
lhg posted 11-12-2001 04:18 PM ET (US)
Since the Springfield transom jack is solid in the center, there is no unusual splash created at all.
beby138 posted 11-12-2001 06:52 PM ET (US)
I installed 4 month ago a Johnson 40hp 20" shaft on my 13'68 w/ a jack plate that I made w/ 4 pzs of Alum Angular 14"x4"x1/4 ,made 2 U's ,bolted together and used same holes from old engine ( I hate to drill my tramsom!!).works great ,first trip out and water getting in to motorwell,fixed that w/ acrylic Shield.Running great til noticed on the way back from Key West to Miami an uneven wearing of the trailer tires, then surprise!,BENT AXLE,those four inches that I moved back the engine w/ a jack plate + 30 # diference from my old engine to the newone made big diference on trailer balance, so maybe you had to reconfigure your trailer after the change.
MikeMiami

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Author	Topic: Jack Plates
JC	posted 11-08-2001 12:10 PM ET (US) I am looking to put a jack plate on a 1960 13' in order to accomodate a 20" shaft. I was looking for any experience with installs and who manufactures a good product at a reasonable price. Thanks Jon
Highwater	posted 11-08-2001 12:32 PM ET (US) Check out the Cook Manufacturing Company, http://www.cook-mfg.com/. It seems to me that the ideal set up would be to put use both their vertical extensions AND a jack plate like the PT-130. The vertical extension will get you up to where you would have been with a 20" transom, and the jack plate will allow you to raise the motor even higher for operating in shallow water. The jack plate goes on first, then then vertical extensions go on it. Or you could just use the vertical extensions by themselves, which would be cheaper and would not add as much rear end weight. Please post the results of your installation as I believe that several members of this forum are considering various means of affixing an outboard with a 20" shaft to a pre-1973 13' Whaler with a 15" transom.
lhg	posted 11-08-2001 01:13 PM ET (US) I would recommend the product made by Springfield Marine, sold by Cabela's in a 6" setback version for about $250. My reason is that it will look much smaller on the boat than the CMC unit, although both are of equally high quality and one piece design (important). The CMC unit is very wide, wider than the engine bracket, whereas the Springfield unit is much narrower and appears U shaped, with plates to mount to the boat and engine, when seen from the side. Considering the slight curve of the 13 transom, the Springfield unit will fit better. It may still need some shimming however, to accomodate the hull curve. See the "Brackets" article on this site for pictures of these Springfield brackets on my 18 Outrage. In Rendesvous, there is a picture of a 21 Walkaround with one of these also. Bass Pro shops shows a "Rite Hite" brand that is similarly designed.
Highwater	posted 11-08-2001 01:49 PM ET (US) LHG, would you happen to have a web site address for Cabella's? Thanks.
Taylor	posted 11-08-2001 06:50 PM ET (US) Hyperlinkto Cabelas.
Taylor	posted 11-08-2001 06:59 PM ET (US) Cool site, Cabelas. While I was there I noticed this following product that looks as if it might also meet JC's need, if cost is an object: Its the 'Mini-Jacker Motor Bracket' Item: IB-012346 Price: $64.99. Gotta love the cost. Here is what they say... Mini-Jacker Motor Bracket - Designed for outboard motors up to 35 hp, this cast-aluminum offset-type plate actually improves the performance and handling of small, light boats. Great for clamping kicker motors on boats where access is limited. Also allows mounting of long-shaft motors to short-shaft transom boats. Once installed, the unit stands off the transom 4". Engine mounting surface is 11-1/2"W x 10"H and features a vertical offset of 3". Overall width: 17".
Highwater	posted 11-08-2001 09:51 PM ET (US) LHG—the $250 Springfield unit looks nice except that it only raises the engine 3-and-a-half inches. It might be better to use a solution that would raise the motor a full five inches. What do you think? Taylor—the Mini Jacker has a great price but I wonder if it would be risky to use it with a 40 or 50 hp engine? Probably not a good idea.
jimh	posted 11-08-2001 11:19 PM ET (US) Regarding the Springfield Marine setback brackets: About two years ago Springfield Marine had a very intense fire in their foundry which destroyed the facility along with much of their tooling. The tooling for making the setback brackets was lost in this fire. As a result, they no longer make them. Cabelas does have some still in stock, but they don't always list them in their printed catalogues. Get them while you can!
13whaler1965	posted 11-09-2001 06:04 AM ET (US) JC, I have a mini-jack plate that came from Bobs Machine in s. fl. on my boat. So far it works great with a mariner 30. It is non adjusting so when you bolt it on make sure it is where you want it. It is built for a flat transom and the whaler has a curved one, so when you attach it you have to caulk around the edges with 5200.
lhg	posted 11-09-2001 03:08 PM ET (US) Highwater, the Springfield, and most other jackplates, can easily accomplish the needed 5" height. Actually, I think the unit itself can easily be raised 4", but remember, with the 5 holes on most engine brackets, there is another (4 x 3/4") 3" of adjustment with the engine (I know Mercs have these five bolt holes). So you can really go as high as needed. I would mount the engine in the fifth hole to the bracket plate, then use the adjustable setting on the bracket to achieve corrent running height.
Highwater	posted 11-09-2001 08:49 PM ET (US) Thanks for explaining that to me, lhg. Even if I don't repower, I might want to go ahead and secure a bracket. Right now my engine is mounted three-and-a-half inches above the top of the transom, with the top mounting bolt being just a half inch below the top of the transom. So the engine (40 hp Johnson) is hanging on air, and has been like this since it was installed, which I believe was 1987.
JC	posted 11-09-2001 10:47 PM ET (US) Ihg, I have talked to a couple of people who have had one and two piece jack plates by different manufactures. And they have mentioned problems with splash comming up through and around the plate and affecting engine performance ie. water in carb ect. Some had build their own splash guard while others recommended purchasing a manfactures product. To your knowledge is this a problem with the springfield Jack Plate. JC
RHLOOS	posted 11-10-2001 09:44 AM ET (US) In the Spring I installed a Fixed Vertical Jackplate on my 1966- 13' Whaler with a new Yamaha 25h.p. 4-Stroke. I would recommend! The only way I could get PT&T and a 4-Stroke was with a jackplate. The only complication was the curvature of the transom, which was solved by using "Lexan" as a continous vertical shim on the outside of the plates.
lhg	posted 11-12-2001 04:18 PM ET (US) Since the Springfield transom jack is solid in the center, there is no unusual splash created at all.
beby138	posted 11-12-2001 06:52 PM ET (US) I installed 4 month ago a Johnson 40hp 20" shaft on my 13'68 w/ a jack plate that I made w/ 4 pzs of Alum Angular 14"x4"x1/4 ,made 2 U's ,bolted together and used same holes from old engine ( I hate to drill my tramsom!!).works great ,first trip out and water getting in to motorwell,fixed that w/ acrylic Shield.Running great til noticed on the way back from Key West to Miami an uneven wearing of the trailer tires, then surprise!,BENT AXLE,those four inches that I moved back the engine w/ a jack plate + 30 # diference from my old engine to the newone made big diference on trailer balance, so maybe you had to reconfigure your trailer after the change. MikeMiami