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Author Topic:   Replacement Door

ChrisCT posted 11-26-2001 07:51 AM ET (US)
I have owned my 76 17' Montauk for 1 week and she is shiny and clean, wook has been 'reteaked' and trailer is now functional and legal. Now time for a few small improvements. Does anyone know a source for a port side (of center console) door for the boat? Isn't there supposed to be a teak door there or maybe teak diagonal panels for air flow? It seams to have been replaced w/ a yellowing plastic or plexiglass door at some point in the boats life. I'm sure I could get a piece of hard wood that would look nice but am concerned about warping.
ChrisCT posted 11-26-2001 10:05 AM ET (US)
Project # 2 (besides learning about Gelcoats....) Where should I look for a Bimini top for a 17' Montauk? The white, plastic covers frame was disgustingly dirty but cleaned up pretty nice. I have the Metal holder but guy I purchased boat from did not have the canvas. Father in law says the metal frame is just like his old frame (4 bars that unfold out and fit into clips in hull)
I promise to start helping the rest of the group out once I get some knowledge / experience.
Bigshot posted 11-26-2001 10:54 AM ET (US)
76 had solid side door. Use hardwood, it won't warp. Biminis are cheap to reupholster if frame is good. If frame is crap, a nice bimini is under $200 but if you want the best you can cough up $600 for a mills.
ChrisCT posted 11-26-2001 01:56 PM ET (US)
Thx Bigshot!
Anyone - West Marine a good source for top?
I can figure out the hard wood piece...
John from Madison CT posted 11-26-2001 02:01 PM ET (US)
ChrisCT,
I'm thinking about a new Bimini for my '89 Montauk. Seems that Overtons and Cabelas both have excellent deals for new aluminum framed tops using the Sunbrella fabric. (~$260) West Marine/Boat US and Boaters World all cost more.
John from Madison CT
Bigshot posted 11-26-2001 03:22 PM ET (US)
FL is cheap for Biminis. If your bows are good, have it redone in Sunbrella. If not search around. They should be easy to ship unassembled and cheap due to light weight.
ChrisCT posted 12-04-2001 11:20 AM ET (US)
Anyone know the original width of the left side door (in center console). I have spoken w/ some wood knowledgable people (but no boat knowledgable) and they are saying I need to use 1/2 thick marine grade wood. Is that close to original? Does anyone know if 1/2 spacers are then used for the hinges - and are they fiberglass or wood?
andygere posted 12-04-2001 11:57 AM ET (US)
Chris,
I sent you some close up photos of an original Montauk console door.
Tom W Clark posted 12-04-2001 12:15 PM ET (US)
ChrisCT,
If your boat is a '76 then the doors were, as Bigshot points out, solid, not louvered. Up through 1976 the Montauk and Outrage center consoles had varnished mahogany plywood doors. Starting in 1977 oiled teak louvered doors were used. Andy Gere's boat is a '79 and thus has the teak louvered detail.
If you want to go back to the original look then you want to use mahogany plywood. Both solid hardwood and plywood have the potential to warp but it is far less likely if you use plywood. The real problem with a hardwood door is it will split and fall off.
The original was 3/4" I believe. The hinges used are called "semi-inset" or "semi-concealed". You should use a chrome plated brass hinges and not the run-of-the-mill hardware store variety. Perko makes a nice one which is what Whaler used originally. Perko part: "Inset Hinge", fig. 271
These types of hinges are designed for use with a 3/8" rabbet in the edge of the door which overlaps the wooden frame and provides some measure of weather proofing.
I cannot provide you with the exact dimensions but there must be someone here who has one of the older style consoles. Don McIntyre has an old Outrage. Perhaps he could help you out.
Tom W Clark posted 12-04-2001 12:21 PM ET (US)
Correction: Solid doors used up to and including 1977. Teak louvered doors first appeared for the 1978 model year when the console was slightly redesigned eliminating the "wings" on the sides and adding a black non-glare surface to the "dash".
Tom W Clark posted 12-04-2001 01:54 PM ET (US)
To see the Perko hinge: http://www.perko.com/cgi-bin/perko.pl?dis+271-hinges_info
hauptjm posted 12-05-2001 09:55 AM ET (US)
ChrisCT, if I were you I would go the route of the louvered door. I know that runs afoul of the purist, but the louvered doors will provide you more ventilation and less mildew. Besides, the louvered doors look a lot better.

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Author	Topic: Replacement Door
ChrisCT	posted 11-26-2001 07:51 AM ET (US) I have owned my 76 17' Montauk for 1 week and she is shiny and clean, wook has been 'reteaked' and trailer is now functional and legal. Now time for a few small improvements. Does anyone know a source for a port side (of center console) door for the boat? Isn't there supposed to be a teak door there or maybe teak diagonal panels for air flow? It seams to have been replaced w/ a yellowing plastic or plexiglass door at some point in the boats life. I'm sure I could get a piece of hard wood that would look nice but am concerned about warping.
ChrisCT	posted 11-26-2001 10:05 AM ET (US) Project # 2 (besides learning about Gelcoats....) Where should I look for a Bimini top for a 17' Montauk? The white, plastic covers frame was disgustingly dirty but cleaned up pretty nice. I have the Metal holder but guy I purchased boat from did not have the canvas. Father in law says the metal frame is just like his old frame (4 bars that unfold out and fit into clips in hull) I promise to start helping the rest of the group out once I get some knowledge / experience.
Bigshot	posted 11-26-2001 10:54 AM ET (US) 76 had solid side door. Use hardwood, it won't warp. Biminis are cheap to reupholster if frame is good. If frame is crap, a nice bimini is under $200 but if you want the best you can cough up $600 for a mills.
ChrisCT	posted 11-26-2001 01:56 PM ET (US) Thx Bigshot! Anyone - West Marine a good source for top? I can figure out the hard wood piece...
John from Madison CT	posted 11-26-2001 02:01 PM ET (US) ChrisCT, I'm thinking about a new Bimini for my '89 Montauk. Seems that Overtons and Cabelas both have excellent deals for new aluminum framed tops using the Sunbrella fabric. (~$260) West Marine/Boat US and Boaters World all cost more. John from Madison CT
Bigshot	posted 11-26-2001 03:22 PM ET (US) FL is cheap for Biminis. If your bows are good, have it redone in Sunbrella. If not search around. They should be easy to ship unassembled and cheap due to light weight.
ChrisCT	posted 12-04-2001 11:20 AM ET (US) Anyone know the original width of the left side door (in center console). I have spoken w/ some wood knowledgable people (but no boat knowledgable) and they are saying I need to use 1/2 thick marine grade wood. Is that close to original? Does anyone know if 1/2 spacers are then used for the hinges - and are they fiberglass or wood?
andygere	posted 12-04-2001 11:57 AM ET (US) Chris, I sent you some close up photos of an original Montauk console door.
Tom W Clark	posted 12-04-2001 12:15 PM ET (US) ChrisCT, If your boat is a '76 then the doors were, as Bigshot points out, solid, not louvered. Up through 1976 the Montauk and Outrage center consoles had varnished mahogany plywood doors. Starting in 1977 oiled teak louvered doors were used. Andy Gere's boat is a '79 and thus has the teak louvered detail. If you want to go back to the original look then you want to use mahogany plywood. Both solid hardwood and plywood have the potential to warp but it is far less likely if you use plywood. The real problem with a hardwood door is it will split and fall off. The original was 3/4" I believe. The hinges used are called "semi-inset" or "semi-concealed". You should use a chrome plated brass hinges and not the run-of-the-mill hardware store variety. Perko makes a nice one which is what Whaler used originally. Perko part: "Inset Hinge", fig. 271 These types of hinges are designed for use with a 3/8" rabbet in the edge of the door which overlaps the wooden frame and provides some measure of weather proofing. I cannot provide you with the exact dimensions but there must be someone here who has one of the older style consoles. Don McIntyre has an old Outrage. Perhaps he could help you out.
Tom W Clark	posted 12-04-2001 12:21 PM ET (US) Correction: Solid doors used up to and including 1977. Teak louvered doors first appeared for the 1978 model year when the console was slightly redesigned eliminating the "wings" on the sides and adding a black non-glare surface to the "dash".
Tom W Clark	posted 12-04-2001 01:54 PM ET (US) To see the Perko hinge: http://www.perko.com/cgi-bin/perko.pl?dis+271-hinges_info
hauptjm	posted 12-05-2001 09:55 AM ET (US) ChrisCT, if I were you I would go the route of the louvered door. I know that runs afoul of the purist, but the louvered doors will provide you more ventilation and less mildew. Besides, the louvered doors look a lot better.