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Author Topic:   varnish brands

CaptCornchowder posted 01-15-2002 07:36 PM ET (US)
Am ready to aply varnish or two part poly to my teak,would anyone have a brandname that has worked well.
Thanks CC

noswah posted 01-15-2002 07:53 PM ET (US)
Z-Spar's Captain's Varnish should work for you, and I'd use a foam brush instead of a bristle brush so you have less air bubbles.
OutrageMan posted 01-15-2002 08:08 PM ET (US)
Try Interlux Schooner for a traditional spar varnish, or Interlux Interthane Plus for a 2 part clear coating.
- No I do not work for Interlux -
Brian
lhg posted 01-15-2002 08:24 PM ET (US)
I also like Z-Spar, but use the "Flagship" grade, which has 6 times the UV protection of the "Captains" grade. Just did my Whaler teak with this, 10 coats, and it came out BEAUTIFUL.
My attitude is that, considering how labor intensive varnishing is, the extra cost for the UV (the great killer of bright work) protection is well worth it. I also wipe on teak colored oil stain first, not so much for the darker color, but also for the increased UV protection to the wood. It keeps the wood looking "non-yellowed" for many more years.
And I like the darker initial look.
whalerron posted 01-16-2002 08:22 AM ET (US)
I too like the Interlux Schooner. It has UV stabilizers in it and some other properties that make it "self-healing". Of course, I am sure that all of the better varnishes are now UV stabilized and "self-healing. You can look at the Minot on Cetacea page 33 to see what it looks like on my boat.
- Ron
sorcerer posted 01-16-2002 10:52 AM ET (US)
Practical Sailor ran a test on 18 varnishes, the top 3 were Regatta 3105 Plus 5, Brite Wood Marine finish (Evercoat has discontinued this product)and Epifranes Clear Gloss.
The next 3 were Regatta 3100 Spar Varnish, Sunshield Clear Finish (no longer made) and Interlux 90 Superspar Finish.
Z-Spar Captain's varnish came in 14th.
These were tested with 18 months of exposure for color change, gloss, crazing and wood protection. They checked each sample for distressed areas and tried to determine moisture migration and how much discoloration to the wood occurred.
The kicker, these test were run in 1987-1988!
Interesting to note out of the top six, four are still available under the same product name and made by the same company.
Pretty sure formulations have changed to one degree or another if for no other reason EPA requirements. UV protection I am sure for all have been reformulated as better UV additives have been developed

I have used both Epifrane's High Gloss Clear and most recently their Wood Finish Gloss which allows you to skip sanding in between coats except for the last one. This "no sand" surprisingly came out very well. The jury is still out on durability. I used the Interlux 90 on a Sunfish center board, tiller and rudder it has held up well with considerable abuse.
where2 posted 01-16-2002 01:58 PM ET (US)
Perfectly content with my Epifanes Clear Gloss. Powerboat Reports did a test of Clear finishes 3/01 with an update in 11/01. Separately, they have tested Honey Teak by Signature Finishes and gave it a BIG Thumbs Up, as did Ship Shape TV.
You probably weren't looking for a finish that allows you to apply do ALL the coats in one day though. Or one you can pour MEK on after it is dry without hurting the finish.
Wild Turkey posted 01-16-2002 11:29 PM ET (US)
Noooooooo!!...... Please don't varnish your teak. Oil your teak.
Just kidding, it is a matter of personal preference. For the record, I like my teak oiled.
Chris
where2 posted 01-17-2002 12:31 PM ET (US)
I like my teak dining room table, and other teak home furniture oiled. I like a little more protection from the sun for things subjected to the harshness of the outdoors. :) I have yet to see anyone who could keep enough teak oil on a dive platform to keep it looking nice.
CaptCornchowder posted 01-17-2002 07:45 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all the great advice. This is the first time that I have used this medium.I was simply amazed at the rapid knowledgable ansewers I received.
Tannks again,
cc.
captbobb posted 01-17-2002 08:21 PM ET (US)
john the picture of the whaler jumping out of the water was excellent. did you say you
configured that to your screen saver / if so how did you do that /
CaptCornchowder posted 01-17-2002 08:30 PM ET (US)
captbobb I just asked Priscilla, Steff should know.
c.c.
captbobb posted 01-17-2002 08:41 PM ET (US)
capt.C.... you may want to query about the availability of a replacement under the seat gas tank.
stef has no idea, i will bring the computer saturday
Chesapeake posted 01-18-2002 11:35 AM ET (US)
Well, I am about to try Awl-Spar (for a traditional varnish color), followed by numerous coats of Awl-Brite 2 part finish. It is supposed to be tougher than nails and longer lasting than std spar varnishes. We'll see about that.
I have had great luck with my limited (and smelly) experience with Awl-grip, so thought to give it a try. Anyone used Awl-brite? Would be more than happy to hear of your advice.
BW

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Author	Topic: varnish brands
CaptCornchowder	posted 01-15-2002 07:36 PM ET (US) Am ready to aply varnish or two part poly to my teak,would anyone have a brandname that has worked well. Thanks CC
noswah	posted 01-15-2002 07:53 PM ET (US) Z-Spar's Captain's Varnish should work for you, and I'd use a foam brush instead of a bristle brush so you have less air bubbles.
OutrageMan	posted 01-15-2002 08:08 PM ET (US) Try Interlux Schooner for a traditional spar varnish, or Interlux Interthane Plus for a 2 part clear coating. - No I do not work for Interlux - Brian
lhg	posted 01-15-2002 08:24 PM ET (US) I also like Z-Spar, but use the "Flagship" grade, which has 6 times the UV protection of the "Captains" grade. Just did my Whaler teak with this, 10 coats, and it came out BEAUTIFUL. My attitude is that, considering how labor intensive varnishing is, the extra cost for the UV (the great killer of bright work) protection is well worth it. I also wipe on teak colored oil stain first, not so much for the darker color, but also for the increased UV protection to the wood. It keeps the wood looking "non-yellowed" for many more years. And I like the darker initial look.
whalerron	posted 01-16-2002 08:22 AM ET (US) I too like the Interlux Schooner. It has UV stabilizers in it and some other properties that make it "self-healing". Of course, I am sure that all of the better varnishes are now UV stabilized and "self-healing. You can look at the Minot on Cetacea page 33 to see what it looks like on my boat. - Ron
sorcerer	posted 01-16-2002 10:52 AM ET (US) Practical Sailor ran a test on 18 varnishes, the top 3 were Regatta 3105 Plus 5, Brite Wood Marine finish (Evercoat has discontinued this product)and Epifranes Clear Gloss. The next 3 were Regatta 3100 Spar Varnish, Sunshield Clear Finish (no longer made) and Interlux 90 Superspar Finish. Z-Spar Captain's varnish came in 14th. These were tested with 18 months of exposure for color change, gloss, crazing and wood protection. They checked each sample for distressed areas and tried to determine moisture migration and how much discoloration to the wood occurred. The kicker, these test were run in 1987-1988! Interesting to note out of the top six, four are still available under the same product name and made by the same company. Pretty sure formulations have changed to one degree or another if for no other reason EPA requirements. UV protection I am sure for all have been reformulated as better UV additives have been developed I have used both Epifrane's High Gloss Clear and most recently their Wood Finish Gloss which allows you to skip sanding in between coats except for the last one. This "no sand" surprisingly came out very well. The jury is still out on durability. I used the Interlux 90 on a Sunfish center board, tiller and rudder it has held up well with considerable abuse.
where2	posted 01-16-2002 01:58 PM ET (US) Perfectly content with my Epifanes Clear Gloss. Powerboat Reports did a test of Clear finishes 3/01 with an update in 11/01. Separately, they have tested Honey Teak by Signature Finishes and gave it a BIG Thumbs Up, as did Ship Shape TV. You probably weren't looking for a finish that allows you to apply do ALL the coats in one day though. Or one you can pour MEK on after it is dry without hurting the finish.
Wild Turkey	posted 01-16-2002 11:29 PM ET (US) Noooooooo!!...... Please don't varnish your teak. Oil your teak. Just kidding, it is a matter of personal preference. For the record, I like my teak oiled. Chris
where2	posted 01-17-2002 12:31 PM ET (US) I like my teak dining room table, and other teak home furniture oiled. I like a little more protection from the sun for things subjected to the harshness of the outdoors. :) I have yet to see anyone who could keep enough teak oil on a dive platform to keep it looking nice.
CaptCornchowder	posted 01-17-2002 07:45 PM ET (US) Thanks for all the great advice. This is the first time that I have used this medium.I was simply amazed at the rapid knowledgable ansewers I received. Tannks again, cc.
captbobb	posted 01-17-2002 08:21 PM ET (US) john the picture of the whaler jumping out of the water was excellent. did you say you configured that to your screen saver / if so how did you do that /
CaptCornchowder	posted 01-17-2002 08:30 PM ET (US) captbobb I just asked Priscilla, Steff should know. c.c.
captbobb	posted 01-17-2002 08:41 PM ET (US) capt.C.... you may want to query about the availability of a replacement under the seat gas tank. stef has no idea, i will bring the computer saturday
Chesapeake	posted 01-18-2002 11:35 AM ET (US) Well, I am about to try Awl-Spar (for a traditional varnish color), followed by numerous coats of Awl-Brite 2 part finish. It is supposed to be tougher than nails and longer lasting than std spar varnishes. We'll see about that. I have had great luck with my limited (and smelly) experience with Awl-grip, so thought to give it a try. Anyone used Awl-brite? Would be more than happy to hear of your advice. BW