Rewire of Montauk - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Rewire of Montauk

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Rewire of Montauk

Denny posted 01-25-2002 01:57 PM ET (US)
I am in the process of rewiring the center counsel in my “new” 89” Montauk and am looking for ideas. The way the center counsel is now set up I need to unscrew the front panel to change any fuses. This is something I would not like to do in rough / rainy weather. I am also concerned about water getting in to the switch panel as well as the fuse area. What have some of you folks done? Have any of you moved the battery to the center counsel? How did it work out?
Denny
JBCornwell posted 01-25-2002 03:41 PM ET (US)
Ahoy, Denny. I did the same thing last year. I ended up putting a waterproof switch/fuse panel on one side of the console.
I also moved the battery to the console because of repowering to a 4 stroke. It works out very well except that you need to reinforce the console floor under the battery if you are going to jump wakes.
Red sky at night. . .
JB :)
Kelly posted 01-25-2002 03:56 PM ET (US)
The console I bought from Whaler has a hole cut in the bottom of the floor for the console so he battery rests on the floor of the boat. I have not moved by battery up yet since I need to enlarge the hole for my battery. I think the hole in the floor of the console is a nice idea since the battery will not take up as much space in the console and the floor will keep it from sliding around. I will add a strap anyway for big bumps. It sounds like my switch/fuse panel is set up kinda like JB described. I think I remember a sticker on my panel with the name of the supplier. Let me know if you want me to check. Kelly
Denny posted 01-25-2002 06:06 PM ET (US)
Hi Guys!
Thanks for the replies. When you put the switch/ fuse panel on the side how did you attach the panel? I though about a screw hatch access on the side panel but the location and attachment of the panel have me scratching my head. I would like the name of the supplier.
I like the idea of the hole in the floor to take care of the battery.
Thanks again,
Denny
triblet posted 01-25-2002 09:49 PM ET (US)
The hole in the console floor is because the
battery is HEAVY. That way its weight is
right on the deck. Whaler puts the battery
inside the console from the factory now.
Blue Sea Systems makes a nice splash proof
fuse block (Blue Sea p/n 5015, West Marine
p/n 167747). I put one on the inside front
of the console just inside the door. Be
careful though, they also make a very similar
part without the ground bus. The factory
Aux circuit breaker runs to my fuse block,
and things break out from their to the
various electronics. BTW, if you want two
separated 12V supplies into that block, you
can cut the 12V bus in two. I did that.
One side is fed by the factory Aux circuit
and goes to the Humminbird SureVolt regulator
(put in anything from 5V to 18V, and 13.8V
comes out), and the VHF, and one spare.
The other half is fed by the regulated side
of the SureVolt, and feeds GPS, SONAR, and
one spare.
Chuck
lhg posted 01-25-2002 11:52 PM ET (US)
Denny - You might want to look at the picture of my 1989 Outrage center console on Cetacea Page 2, to see how Whaler did this. As you know, the Montauk and Outrage small center consoles are identical, except that on all of the Outrage series boats, BW furnished two prewired electrical panels underneath the instrument panels. This way, the needed (for twin engines) instrument panel space was not used up for switches like they did on the Montauk. Everything in the area of the steering wheel is original factory, and you can see the line of chrome knobs of the pull switches. There is a fuse holder under each switch, easily accessible. From the left, the first item is a 2 pronged power plug (fused 10 amps), then international navigation lights (fused 5 amps), then compass, then other items on the boat such as a washdown pump, areator pump, courtesy lights, etc. You probably can find a Blue Sea prewired panel that might fit this area, and that has the exposed fuse holders also. The console has plywood backing in this area above the teak door, and all they did was cut out the necessary hole for the panels. It does not weaken the console at all. BW did not put the bilge pump switches into these panels on the Outrages, but instead used a separate "Rule style" single or double switch panel, seen at the lower right, also factory installed on my boat. These are readily available today from Rule.
It is also possible that these horizontal switch panels would still be available from the CPD.
Denny posted 01-26-2002 02:48 AM ET (US)
I like the idea of putting the panel right by the front door with the battery behind or along side of it. Good idea. It would be easy to see, get to, and prevent me from carving a hole in the side of the console.
Say that console on the Outrage is something else! I hate to think of what your back felt like wiring that up. Looks great. It gave me a couple of ideas I didn’t have for placement of some of the stuff I want to add on. Thanks!
Denny
JohnAz posted 01-26-2002 09:33 AM ET (US)
When you put the battery in put a thick heavy rubber mat under the battery or battery box, I used horse stall floor lining, verry shock absorbing.
dfmcintyre posted 01-26-2002 10:08 PM ET (US)
Denny -
I dumped the whole fuse thing, and went with a Blue Seas circuit breaker panel (8 breaker, I think) with backlighting, and mounted it on the starboard side, in a recessed panel that has a hinged clear plastic cover, for water protection. Very happy with the unit.
If you want, I can email some .jpg's of the installation.
Don
Denny posted 01-27-2002 10:56 AM ET (US)
Hi, I would like to take a look at the way you did it. I thought about do something like that but couldn't decide on a location for the panel and a way to attach it. When you get a chance please send the pics.
I planed on doing the rewire job this weekend but the weather here in Vancouver WA doesn’t seem to want to stop sending down wet stuff.
Thanks,
Denny
DJS posted 01-27-2002 04:05 PM ET (US)
Since you are considering moving your battery farther from the engine you may be interested in the following veb site in relation to what size wire to use:
www.shipshapetv.org
After the site opens click Technical Information, then click Wiring and Diagrams, then look at Tables I, II, III. Also, at the top of this page you may click on the Engine and Accessory Wiring Color Code and the Wiring Color Code.
Hope you find this helpful. David
Caceman posted 01-28-2002 01:16 PM ET (US)
This thread brings to mind a question that I have been meaning to ask for some time now. Does anybody have, or know of a source for, a wiring diagram that will represent the original factory layout of the electrical system? Specifically, I'm looking for a wiring diagram for a 1975 17' Striper, but I figure that a Montauk from the same period will do. Thanks, guys.
-Andrew
Denny posted 01-28-2002 10:03 PM ET (US)
Just wanted to say thanks for all the input on the rewiring job. You folks have been a great help.
Denny

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Rewire of Montauk
Denny	posted 01-25-2002 01:57 PM ET (US) I am in the process of rewiring the center counsel in my “new” 89” Montauk and am looking for ideas. The way the center counsel is now set up I need to unscrew the front panel to change any fuses. This is something I would not like to do in rough / rainy weather. I am also concerned about water getting in to the switch panel as well as the fuse area. What have some of you folks done? Have any of you moved the battery to the center counsel? How did it work out? Denny
JBCornwell	posted 01-25-2002 03:41 PM ET (US) Ahoy, Denny. I did the same thing last year. I ended up putting a waterproof switch/fuse panel on one side of the console. I also moved the battery to the console because of repowering to a 4 stroke. It works out very well except that you need to reinforce the console floor under the battery if you are going to jump wakes. Red sky at night. . . JB :)
Kelly	posted 01-25-2002 03:56 PM ET (US) The console I bought from Whaler has a hole cut in the bottom of the floor for the console so he battery rests on the floor of the boat. I have not moved by battery up yet since I need to enlarge the hole for my battery. I think the hole in the floor of the console is a nice idea since the battery will not take up as much space in the console and the floor will keep it from sliding around. I will add a strap anyway for big bumps. It sounds like my switch/fuse panel is set up kinda like JB described. I think I remember a sticker on my panel with the name of the supplier. Let me know if you want me to check. Kelly
Denny	posted 01-25-2002 06:06 PM ET (US) Hi Guys! Thanks for the replies. When you put the switch/ fuse panel on the side how did you attach the panel? I though about a screw hatch access on the side panel but the location and attachment of the panel have me scratching my head. I would like the name of the supplier. I like the idea of the hole in the floor to take care of the battery. Thanks again, Denny
triblet	posted 01-25-2002 09:49 PM ET (US) The hole in the console floor is because the battery is HEAVY. That way its weight is right on the deck. Whaler puts the battery inside the console from the factory now. Blue Sea Systems makes a nice splash proof fuse block (Blue Sea p/n 5015, West Marine p/n 167747). I put one on the inside front of the console just inside the door. Be careful though, they also make a very similar part without the ground bus. The factory Aux circuit breaker runs to my fuse block, and things break out from their to the various electronics. BTW, if you want two separated 12V supplies into that block, you can cut the 12V bus in two. I did that. One side is fed by the factory Aux circuit and goes to the Humminbird SureVolt regulator (put in anything from 5V to 18V, and 13.8V comes out), and the VHF, and one spare. The other half is fed by the regulated side of the SureVolt, and feeds GPS, SONAR, and one spare. Chuck
lhg	posted 01-25-2002 11:52 PM ET (US) Denny - You might want to look at the picture of my 1989 Outrage center console on Cetacea Page 2, to see how Whaler did this. As you know, the Montauk and Outrage small center consoles are identical, except that on all of the Outrage series boats, BW furnished two prewired electrical panels underneath the instrument panels. This way, the needed (for twin engines) instrument panel space was not used up for switches like they did on the Montauk. Everything in the area of the steering wheel is original factory, and you can see the line of chrome knobs of the pull switches. There is a fuse holder under each switch, easily accessible. From the left, the first item is a 2 pronged power plug (fused 10 amps), then international navigation lights (fused 5 amps), then compass, then other items on the boat such as a washdown pump, areator pump, courtesy lights, etc. You probably can find a Blue Sea prewired panel that might fit this area, and that has the exposed fuse holders also. The console has plywood backing in this area above the teak door, and all they did was cut out the necessary hole for the panels. It does not weaken the console at all. BW did not put the bilge pump switches into these panels on the Outrages, but instead used a separate "Rule style" single or double switch panel, seen at the lower right, also factory installed on my boat. These are readily available today from Rule. It is also possible that these horizontal switch panels would still be available from the CPD.
Denny	posted 01-26-2002 02:48 AM ET (US) I like the idea of putting the panel right by the front door with the battery behind or along side of it. Good idea. It would be easy to see, get to, and prevent me from carving a hole in the side of the console. Say that console on the Outrage is something else! I hate to think of what your back felt like wiring that up. Looks great. It gave me a couple of ideas I didn’t have for placement of some of the stuff I want to add on. Thanks! Denny
JohnAz	posted 01-26-2002 09:33 AM ET (US) When you put the battery in put a thick heavy rubber mat under the battery or battery box, I used horse stall floor lining, verry shock absorbing.
dfmcintyre	posted 01-26-2002 10:08 PM ET (US) Denny - I dumped the whole fuse thing, and went with a Blue Seas circuit breaker panel (8 breaker, I think) with backlighting, and mounted it on the starboard side, in a recessed panel that has a hinged clear plastic cover, for water protection. Very happy with the unit. If you want, I can email some .jpg's of the installation. Don
Denny	posted 01-27-2002 10:56 AM ET (US) Hi, I would like to take a look at the way you did it. I thought about do something like that but couldn't decide on a location for the panel and a way to attach it. When you get a chance please send the pics. I planed on doing the rewire job this weekend but the weather here in Vancouver WA doesn’t seem to want to stop sending down wet stuff. Thanks, Denny
DJS	posted 01-27-2002 04:05 PM ET (US) Since you are considering moving your battery farther from the engine you may be interested in the following veb site in relation to what size wire to use: www.shipshapetv.org After the site opens click Technical Information, then click Wiring and Diagrams, then look at Tables I, II, III. Also, at the top of this page you may click on the Engine and Accessory Wiring Color Code and the Wiring Color Code. Hope you find this helpful. David
Caceman	posted 01-28-2002 01:16 PM ET (US) This thread brings to mind a question that I have been meaning to ask for some time now. Does anybody have, or know of a source for, a wiring diagram that will represent the original factory layout of the electrical system? Specifically, I'm looking for a wiring diagram for a 1975 17' Striper, but I figure that a Montauk from the same period will do. Thanks, guys. -Andrew
Denny	posted 01-28-2002 10:03 PM ET (US) Just wanted to say thanks for all the input on the rewiring job. You folks have been a great help. Denny