Wet sanding tips? - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Wet sanding tips?

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Wet sanding tips?

ChrisCT posted 07-22-2002 08:30 AM ET (US)
I have the opportunity to do some mid season work on my 17 Montauk as I have it out of the water for engine check up. Gonna see if mechanic could fix positioning of transducer (have it just like in picture from this website - but cant get echo past 8mph).
The question - figured I could finish some of my gelcoat sanding... Any threads on wet sanding correctly in this forum? Use hose, water bucket, how wet are we talking? Used wet sandpaper without the water and it left some of the black in the gelcoat...
OutrageMan posted 07-22-2002 09:20 AM ET (US)
I generally use Mequire's (sp?) 1500 or 2000 grit. I let it soak in a bucket for about 15 min, or until the sheets have curled. During sanding I very frequently rinse the paper in the bucket. I don't shake off any exess water.
While sanding, I will go in one direction with the coarser grit, and the opposite direction with the finer grit.
When don, I completely flush the area with generous ammounts of fresh clean water.
When done sanding, buff with the appropriate product (I like Race Glaze leveling compound). The most important step is the final waxing. Put on a few thick coats of a good quality wax or polish to seal the gelcoat (I use Race Glaze polish or Colonite).
Brian
BOB KEMMLER JR posted 07-22-2002 09:34 AM ET (US)
Here's another tip,add a small amount of dish liquid to the water,it sounds stupid i know,but it helps to lubricate further and i think it helps keep the paper from clogging as easy.
sklein posted 07-22-2002 11:51 AM ET (US)
The key to wet sanding is to use plenty of water. The goal is to remove the particles from between the sandpaper and surface immediately. This prevents the paper from loading up and washes any large particles out which may otherwise create larger scratches. I like to have a hose running with a light trickle of water directed onto the surface I'm sanding continuously. Hold it with your other hand, or clamp it to something nearby. It doesn't take a lot of water, just enough to continually flush the area clean as you sand.
Steve
browning20ga posted 07-22-2002 04:44 PM ET (US)
And use a good quality wet/dry sandpaper, I got some cheap stuff and the oxide kept seperating from the paper in little black flakes.
Darrell
Boston Marine posted 07-22-2002 07:40 PM ET (US)
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/002450.html
Boston Marine posted 07-22-2002 07:42 PM ET (US)
Sorry
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/002450.html

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Wet sanding tips?
ChrisCT	posted 07-22-2002 08:30 AM ET (US) I have the opportunity to do some mid season work on my 17 Montauk as I have it out of the water for engine check up. Gonna see if mechanic could fix positioning of transducer (have it just like in picture from this website - but cant get echo past 8mph). The question - figured I could finish some of my gelcoat sanding... Any threads on wet sanding correctly in this forum? Use hose, water bucket, how wet are we talking? Used wet sandpaper without the water and it left some of the black in the gelcoat...
OutrageMan	posted 07-22-2002 09:20 AM ET (US) I generally use Mequire's (sp?) 1500 or 2000 grit. I let it soak in a bucket for about 15 min, or until the sheets have curled. During sanding I very frequently rinse the paper in the bucket. I don't shake off any exess water. While sanding, I will go in one direction with the coarser grit, and the opposite direction with the finer grit. When don, I completely flush the area with generous ammounts of fresh clean water. When done sanding, buff with the appropriate product (I like Race Glaze leveling compound). The most important step is the final waxing. Put on a few thick coats of a good quality wax or polish to seal the gelcoat (I use Race Glaze polish or Colonite). Brian
BOB KEMMLER JR	posted 07-22-2002 09:34 AM ET (US) Here's another tip,add a small amount of dish liquid to the water,it sounds stupid i know,but it helps to lubricate further and i think it helps keep the paper from clogging as easy.
sklein	posted 07-22-2002 11:51 AM ET (US) The key to wet sanding is to use plenty of water. The goal is to remove the particles from between the sandpaper and surface immediately. This prevents the paper from loading up and washes any large particles out which may otherwise create larger scratches. I like to have a hose running with a light trickle of water directed onto the surface I'm sanding continuously. Hold it with your other hand, or clamp it to something nearby. It doesn't take a lot of water, just enough to continually flush the area clean as you sand. Steve
browning20ga	posted 07-22-2002 04:44 PM ET (US) And use a good quality wet/dry sandpaper, I got some cheap stuff and the oxide kept seperating from the paper in little black flakes. Darrell
Boston Marine	posted 07-22-2002 07:40 PM ET (US) http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/002450.html
Boston Marine	posted 07-22-2002 07:42 PM ET (US) Sorry http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/002450.html