|
ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods Refinishing wood on Montauk
|
Author | Topic: Refinishing wood on Montauk |
Sixer |
posted 10-21-2002 07:14 PM ET (US)
I have read many of the posts regarding the various ways to refinish the wood, but nothing mentioned if it was preferable to remove and dissasemble the pieces first or leave it assembled and mounted. Opinions? |
jimp |
posted 10-21-2002 08:05 PM ET (US)
Sixer - I think it is a function of time. When I have more time, I remove the wood needing work. If I'm pressed for time, I tape it off & do it installed. Obviously, taking it off will allow a better inspection of the wood and the fastenings. It might also turn up some problems that exist under the wood. At the end of the season I usually try to remove all the teak and do it in the garage when I have time. Sometimes I don't have the time... and say "next year". Removing it may also allow you the option of replacing it with maintenance-free King Starboard, if you really want to. JimP |
NHKatama |
posted 10-21-2002 11:57 PM ET (US)
Can you tell me where you can buy the King Starboard, I hear it is great material to use on a boat, thanks PT |
jimp |
posted 10-22-2002 10:43 AM ET (US)
West Marine and Boat/US (and likely others) carry King Starboard in their on-line stores. |
Taylor |
posted 10-22-2002 05:53 PM ET (US)
I think it depends on how much you plan on doing to the wood. For a complete sand down and refinish, I agree with Jim, take it off and take it home with you to do over the winter. If you are just touching up, leave it on. work_to_remove+work_to_replace <? work_to_cleanup + (work_to_refinish_in_place - work_to_refishing_at_home) On a Montauk, you can pull all the wood in an hour. I just did it. Helps to have someone on the outside. In order of increasing difficulty: Forward hatch That last one is a real bear, my arms are not long enough to reach inside and outside at the same time. Get some baggies to keep the fasteners separated and label each bag with the area its for. You will *not* remember over the winter if you are over 40. Putting it back after it looks great takes longer, but it is certainly a satisfying project. |
John O |
posted 10-22-2002 06:20 PM ET (US)
Doing it now to my Newtauk. Removed all wood on CC and broke down . Removed all hinges and locks. Put all screws and fixtures in baggies and labeled. Used heat gun with ok results. better w/ randon orbit sander. Port hatch door has on new coat of sikkenn and put 4 of 5 on the Hatch door under steering wheel by deck. i did RPS this spring w/ 3 coats and looks like new. Will make new dowels for door hatch trim as the old ones are mush. Will use hard wood and Gorilla glue. Sanded all wood down completely. After 3 coats used 0000 steel wool before 4th. Sikkens does not say whether or not to sand in between. |
Sixer |
posted 10-22-2002 06:29 PM ET (US)
Thanks all, just bought the boat, 1988 Montauk. Wood is all in good condition, just needs a good sanding and finishing,looks to be all original. I have the boat at the house and will take the suggestion to remove it to do the work. Taylor; I know what you mean about the need for long arms, after trying to clean some wiring up, my armpits hurt like the dickens!!. |
Florida15 |
posted 10-22-2002 10:47 PM ET (US)
I am currently refinishing the wood on a 1987 15'. I took all the wood off. I just don't see how you could affectively do it if you leave it on, other than a touch up. I have run into a problem. All of the wood came out pretty good considering that I am not a craftsman by any stretch of the imagination. But I am having a problem with the long side board that the console and motor control bolts into. I have finished the edges and one side having put on 6 coats of spar varnish. The wood looks bright and clean. I started on the remaining side and have so far put two coats on. The middle of the board looks clean but about a foot on each end is dark, not light like the rest of the board. I'm thinking maybe I didn't get all the sawdust off after sanding. At first I thought I would just continue on but it is really bugging me. I am thinking about stripping and resanding that side. I hate to do that because, as you all know, it's a lot of work and I was really looking forward to putting it all back together. Any thoughts or suggestions ? |
Florida15 |
posted 10-22-2002 10:47 PM ET (US)
I am currently refinishing the wood on a 1987 15'. I took all the wood off. I just don't see how you could affectively do it if you leave it on, other than a touch up. I have run into a problem. All of the wood came out pretty good considering that I am not a craftsman by any stretch of the imagination. But I am having a problem with the long side board that the console and motor control bolts into. I have finished the edges and one side having put on 6 coats of spar varnish. The wood looks bright and clean. I started on the remaining side and have so far put two coats on. The middle of the board looks clean but about a foot on each end is dark, not light like the rest of the board. I'm thinking maybe I didn't get all the sawdust off after sanding. At first I thought I would just continue on but it is really bugging me. I am thinking about stripping and resanding that side. I hate to do that because, as you all know, it's a lot of work and I was really looking forward to putting it all back together. Any thoughts or suggestions ? |
Sixer |
posted 10-23-2002 08:00 AM ET (US)
Florida15, The dark coloration may be from water stains or mildew. On other wood projects that have had this, I have washed it with a solution of TSP and water with good results. There is also a bleach for wood to lighten it. Not sure the kind of wood you have, think it is mahogany. Might want to wait for a response from someone familiar with working with that kind of wood. |
Florida15 |
posted 10-23-2002 09:37 AM ET (US)
Sixer, thanks for the suggestions. What I can't figure out is the wood looked great before I varnished it.The wood is mahogany. I can't remember if I cleaned it with a rag with mineral spirits or just water. I have just been using a rag with water in between coats. It's funny how the varnish brings out every little imperfection. Like I said, I have put two coats on so far. I wonder if I can just tape the good parts and strip and sand the last foot or so on each end where it looks bad or will I hafta strip the entire side ? I don't think it's to the point where I will have to replace the wood.It looks really good except for those spots. I am going to need to replace the front hatch eventually. It looks Ok after varnishing but there are small spots around the hinges that are beginning to rot. I recall seeing a website called whalerwood.com that had decent prices but I can't seem to find them now. Anybody know what happened to them ? |
Tom W Clark |
posted 10-23-2002 11:46 AM ET (US)
Without a doubt, it is preferable to remove all the wood parts before working on them. In the long run this is much less work than trying to deal with them on the boat. You want neither to scratch/gouge your boat while trying to sand/scrape the wood down nor spill oil or varnish on it while applying the new finish. The work will go much faster if the wood pieces are on the work bench and the quality of the work will be better too. It is the frames on the console doors that are perhaps the most difficult to reach. As with any endeavor, the correct tools are a must if frustration is to be avoided. For some reason Whaler seems to have used unnecessarily long #6 machine screws on the door frames. On my last two Whalers it was necessary to use a deep socket to reach over them. With the nylocks that Whaler used it was quite a few turns to get the nuts off. This can be uncomfortable if your arms are extended out as far as they reach and you are scrunched down on the floor of the boat. As Taylor points out, the fasteners should be kept together. zip lock bags work great but paper cups work too. I have often put a set of a dozen fasteners in a cup and then stacked the cups up several high to conserve space and keep them fro falling out. In addition to the appropriate set of socket wrenches and nut drivers, be sure you use a good screwdriver. If you have some old thing from the kitchen drawer go out and buy yourself a new one. It is amazing how much difference there is between a new screwdriver and an old cobbled up one. Be careful with the use of power tools like a cordless screwdriver. They can be life savers but they can really chew up screw heads too if you’re not careful. Using the correct bit will go a long was towards helping you get those screws out without stripping the heads. |
dreid |
posted 10-23-2002 02:09 PM ET (US)
JohnO, The Sikkens on-can directions do indeed recommend that you NOT sand in between coats, which to me meant that the wet-sanding I did do between coats was very very light, just to remove the dust, etc. Ultimately, after seven or eight coats of this, I had filled the poors and she looked good. A final buffing with compound removed little of the Sikkens and left it looking really good. |
Taylor |
posted 10-24-2002 08:04 PM ET (US)
There's one tool Tom missed (!) and that is a nutdriver. These are screwdriver handles with a hex head for a nut. You can buy them in sets, but if you get just the one that you need for those dang #6 nylon nuts, it can really make life easier. You want a nut driver that has a recess up inside so you can drive the nut over the long screw. |
Tom W Clark |
posted 10-24-2002 09:23 PM ET (US)
Taylor, I suggest you reread my post. |
Sixer |
posted 10-25-2002 07:44 AM ET (US)
Thanks again guys, got all the tools except the long arms, will have to check if Harbor Freight stocks them! |
roger8918 |
posted 10-25-2002 01:59 PM ET (US)
Sixer, I refinished all of the wood on my Montauk last winter. First, I removed all wood form the boat. This is a must if you intent on doing a good job. As far as the long screws go, it’s great to have a small 8-year-old helping. I sent him inside the consol to help hold the socket on the nuts both for both removal and reinstallation. Just make sure he doesn’t grab a hand full of wires to hold on to. Next, using a rubber mallet I carefully disassembled the parts. This was much easer then I thought it would be. After sanding down to 600 grit and reassembled the pieces using epoxy, I applied approximately 4-5 coats of golden teak oil. I like the natural look of oil and have been very pleased with the results. I keep a mooring cover on the boat when not in use and the teak has held up great. I plan on cleaning and re-oiling over the winter but that should be an easy job to do while on the boat. Email me if you need a more detailed description of the process. It was pretty much taken word for word from the great contributors of this site. The link below is a photo of the wood taken around the Forth of July. Still looks like new. http://smegl.com/temp/wood.jpg |
John O |
posted 10-25-2002 04:17 PM ET (US)
Dreid- I used 0000 steel wool on the wood after the 3rd coat. it seemed to just take the gloss off. Any thoughts? Should I do nothing between coats ( besides cold beer )I am thinking 5 coats. |
Taylor |
posted 10-25-2002 05:40 PM ET (US)
Oops... there it is: 'nutdriver'. You're right, I missed it. Its that presbyopia thing. Well, lets just say that I'm expressing a preference for the one piece nutdriver over a deep socket since sockets (especially little ones) seem to fall apart when you are least able to retrieve the pieces. Let that be a lesson to the rest of you.. .Tom never misses a tool. |
lhg |
posted 10-25-2002 06:47 PM ET (US)
Roger - Best looking teak oil job I have ever seen on a Montauk! You do great work, and the boat looks great also. |
Sixer |
posted 10-25-2002 07:38 PM ET (US)
Very nice job Roger, hope mine looks as good when I'm done. BUT there is no way I'm gonna have another kid to finish the wood on this boat! |
Sixer |
posted 10-27-2002 03:05 PM ET (US)
Got all the wood removed this morning. Taylor; your difficulty list was right on the money. Only problems were that most of the bolts had a bend in them, and the previous owner had glued a wire holder to the top of the extinguisher box inside the console. All dowels for the trim have to be replaced. Thanks again to all. |
ratherwhalering |
posted 10-29-2002 04:41 PM ET (US)
When I redid the wood on my Montauk, I drilled out the old, countersunk screw holes with a 1/4' drill bit, about 1/8" deep. I filled the new hole with a teak plug and wood glue. I then sanded flush and drilled a pilot hole (from the back) for the replacement mounting bolt. When I was done varnishing, I used pan-head screws machine and rubber washers. It looks great, and you won't get water intrusion from countersinking the mounting bolts. BTW on the trim strips, I filled the holes as above, then used wood screws and mounted from the inside of the console. Through the fiberglass, through the frame, and into the trim. Still holding...and looks SHARP! |
Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.