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Author Topic:   Painting Outboard Cowlng

Kolbert posted 12-31-2002 09:18 AM ET (US)
Just saw the post on painting and touching up the metal on an outboard and wanted to be more specific about repainting the cowling. I have a ninetie's 90 Johnson and the fiberglass cowling was in rough shape. I stripped the decals, filled chips, sanded the outer shell and then proceeded to spray with the Tempo paint. Did 2 coats of white and then about 3 coats of clear. The cowling was sitting in my basement for about 2 weeks when I noticed the slanted areas above where the decals are applied and the flat top join was blstering and peeling.
Any ideas on what I did wrong or how to avoid this problem? Luckily I hadn't applied the decals.
Thanks,
Austin
Bigshot posted 12-31-2002 11:01 AM ET (US)
Prep was your problem. The bare cover does not like paint too much. Use an automotive primer and let dry very well. Then do many light coats of white with about 10-15 mins between coats. Too heavy and it will peel. Once you get the white on good, apply the decals and THEN clearcoat the hood. It will make it look great and the decals will not fade or scratch very easily. I have painted MANY outboards, light coats and good primer are the ticket, especially if you are using laquer Tempo paint. That may also been your flaw. You can not use laquer over enamel or it will alligator the paint. make sure your primer, paint and clear are all enamel or laquer.
Kolbert posted 12-31-2002 11:25 AM ET (US)
Bigshot,
Thanks for the reply. Are touch up paints available in enamels? I got the Tempo paints and clear at West Marine. Is there a better place to get them? I feel like a tool to admit that I didn't use primer because I only had minimal patching. Roughed up the surface and started at it.
On the decals, I am custom cutting 3M high performance Reflective vinyl. I used to sell vehicle graphics and wanted to upgrade to this this for the look and longevity (7 yr exterior warranty). Magic Brush cut the Johnson logos for about $15 and I am doing the rest. Because the vinyl is a solid color, I don't have to worry about it rubbing off or fading. A little wax from time to time keeps it looking great. Johnson wanted around $85-100 for replacements and then you get the same paperbased graphic with a thin printjob.
The Reflective vinyl is a nice upgrade for anyone interested. Has a little shimmer to the color and at night, it "lights up" when shined upon. A nice safety feature for the night fisherman. I also had MAgic Brush do my Whaler logos with Red Reflective for the same reason.
Thanks again for the response. If you can shed any more light on the enamel vs. laquer option, I will get the paints and start over.
Happy New Year.
Bigshot posted 12-31-2002 11:37 AM ET (US)
Nope! Use the Tempo but get their primer as well. I would still clearcoat over the decals. When I do mine I clearcoat and it makes them look factory, like a Harley tank.
andygere posted 12-31-2002 11:52 AM ET (US)
Make sure you degrease carefully with acetone before painting. Change your rag as needed and wipe in one direction. Also, try not to paint when humidity is high or temperature is too low (per directions on paint can). The peeling areas can probably be wetsanded down pretty easily. It sounds like you are doing a nice cowl restoration. Did you take photos? Might make a nice reference article...
Steve Leone posted 12-31-2002 12:16 PM ET (US)
Acetone is fine but a biodegradable de-greaser is better and less expensive. It also is easier on the lungs and won`t evaporate in 1 second. The "citrus" types seem to do the best. A good parts cleaning brush works wonders with this stuff. A good rinse and let dry. I find the paint at West to be exrtremely overpriced. I have the same results using Ace Krylon Paints at a fraction of the costs. Unless of course you cannot find the color. Priming may be necessary but a clean slightly roughened surface is more important. Especially on those plastic shrouds. Steve

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Author	Topic: Painting Outboard Cowlng
Kolbert	posted 12-31-2002 09:18 AM ET (US) Just saw the post on painting and touching up the metal on an outboard and wanted to be more specific about repainting the cowling. I have a ninetie's 90 Johnson and the fiberglass cowling was in rough shape. I stripped the decals, filled chips, sanded the outer shell and then proceeded to spray with the Tempo paint. Did 2 coats of white and then about 3 coats of clear. The cowling was sitting in my basement for about 2 weeks when I noticed the slanted areas above where the decals are applied and the flat top join was blstering and peeling. Any ideas on what I did wrong or how to avoid this problem? Luckily I hadn't applied the decals. Thanks, Austin
Bigshot	posted 12-31-2002 11:01 AM ET (US) Prep was your problem. The bare cover does not like paint too much. Use an automotive primer and let dry very well. Then do many light coats of white with about 10-15 mins between coats. Too heavy and it will peel. Once you get the white on good, apply the decals and THEN clearcoat the hood. It will make it look great and the decals will not fade or scratch very easily. I have painted MANY outboards, light coats and good primer are the ticket, especially if you are using laquer Tempo paint. That may also been your flaw. You can not use laquer over enamel or it will alligator the paint. make sure your primer, paint and clear are all enamel or laquer.
Kolbert	posted 12-31-2002 11:25 AM ET (US) Bigshot, Thanks for the reply. Are touch up paints available in enamels? I got the Tempo paints and clear at West Marine. Is there a better place to get them? I feel like a tool to admit that I didn't use primer because I only had minimal patching. Roughed up the surface and started at it. On the decals, I am custom cutting 3M high performance Reflective vinyl. I used to sell vehicle graphics and wanted to upgrade to this this for the look and longevity (7 yr exterior warranty). Magic Brush cut the Johnson logos for about $15 and I am doing the rest. Because the vinyl is a solid color, I don't have to worry about it rubbing off or fading. A little wax from time to time keeps it looking great. Johnson wanted around $85-100 for replacements and then you get the same paperbased graphic with a thin printjob. The Reflective vinyl is a nice upgrade for anyone interested. Has a little shimmer to the color and at night, it "lights up" when shined upon. A nice safety feature for the night fisherman. I also had MAgic Brush do my Whaler logos with Red Reflective for the same reason. Thanks again for the response. If you can shed any more light on the enamel vs. laquer option, I will get the paints and start over. Happy New Year.
Bigshot	posted 12-31-2002 11:37 AM ET (US) Nope! Use the Tempo but get their primer as well. I would still clearcoat over the decals. When I do mine I clearcoat and it makes them look factory, like a Harley tank.
andygere	posted 12-31-2002 11:52 AM ET (US) Make sure you degrease carefully with acetone before painting. Change your rag as needed and wipe in one direction. Also, try not to paint when humidity is high or temperature is too low (per directions on paint can). The peeling areas can probably be wetsanded down pretty easily. It sounds like you are doing a nice cowl restoration. Did you take photos? Might make a nice reference article...
Steve Leone	posted 12-31-2002 12:16 PM ET (US) Acetone is fine but a biodegradable de-greaser is better and less expensive. It also is easier on the lungs and won`t evaporate in 1 second. The "citrus" types seem to do the best. A good parts cleaning brush works wonders with this stuff. A good rinse and let dry. I find the paint at West to be exrtremely overpriced. I have the same results using Ace Krylon Paints at a fraction of the costs. Unless of course you cannot find the color. Priming may be necessary but a clean slightly roughened surface is more important. Especially on those plastic shrouds. Steve