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Author Topic:   Polishing Marinium

Barry posted 01-08-2003 11:00 PM ET (US)
I spent a good deal of time today trying to polish up one of the hawse hole pipes from my 1988 22-Outrage. I tried a variety of methods including Flitz, rubbing compound, sand paper, emery cloth, and steel wool. The Flitz, rubbing compound, and steel wool didn't do much. The sand paper and emery cloth worked but were scratching it up. I finally ended up using my Dremel with a polishing wheel and Mibro First Stage Heavy Cleaning buffing and polishing compound. It still took a long, long time.
Here is the results http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/bburtensha/outrage/hawse.jpg .
I did a little research on this item. There is a Marinium stamp on the top and a the W over C logo stamp underneath. A search on the Internet revealed that this hawse hole pipe was made by Wilcox Crittenden out of a material called Marinium. Marinium is WC's tradename for a proprietary aluminum alloy. According to their web page http://www.wilcox-crittenden.com , Silver Marinium is an alloy of magnesium, titanium, aluminum, beryllium, and other metals. They claim it will not tarnish like bronze, peel like chrome, or bleed like stainless.
A search on this site revealed that the Samson post, cleats, and bow lights are made out of the same material. Apparently the post and light fixtures are no longer available but the hawse hole pipes still are.
JBCornwell posted 01-09-2003 05:54 AM ET (US)
Hi, Barry.
I polish Marinium parts by removing them and using a cotton buffing wheel on an 8" bench grinder with red buffing rouge.
The alloy is so hard that I found no other method produced a high shine and removed micro scratches without endless hours of elbow grease.
Red sky at night. . .
JB
dreid posted 01-09-2003 04:55 PM ET (US)
Ditto JB's recommendation. The wheel works well, and I went to that only after being amazed at how ineffective elbow greese alone was on the stuff. Yes, you've got to remove the part from the boat, but if you want it done right...
tuna1 posted 01-10-2003 03:30 PM ET (US)
A perfect use for "Woody Wax" and bronze wool is any item made of Marinium. If you have never used Woody's wax you won't beleive the job it does. Spray a small amount of Woodys on some bronze wool and then work it into the Marinium surface and let it sit overnight,or a week or more. The longer it remains on the Marinium surface the better job it does on getting down thur the corrosion and removing it.I can not explane how it works but it does what no other product does.Good Luck
Barry posted 03-09-2003 12:49 PM ET (US)
I almost have this polishing thing down and thought I would report back on the technique that I'm using.
First here are some pictures of my work:
members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/cleats.jpg
members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/hawse.jpg
members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/lights.jpg
members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/rubrail_caps.jpg
members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/bit_before.jpg
members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/bit_after.jpg
What's worked best for me is using a Dremel with the #530 stainless steel brush followed by the #520 polishing wheel with polishing compound. I've gone through a couple of brushes and many polishing wheels.
I even tried Woody Wax and wasn't impressed with it on the Marinium (although in general it works great on aluminum and stainless). I have been using the Woody Wax Sealant as the final step.
rolfwoods posted 03-09-2003 08:51 PM ET (US)
Barry, Your polishing project looks great. How much time did it take? I have just had my bow lights chrome plated (they look new now at $20 each)and have been planning on sending the hawse pipes, anchor bit and rub rail caps to the plater also. Anybody have any experience w/ chrome plating the marinium parts?? Thanks Rolf

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Author	Topic: Polishing Marinium
Barry	posted 01-08-2003 11:00 PM ET (US) I spent a good deal of time today trying to polish up one of the hawse hole pipes from my 1988 22-Outrage. I tried a variety of methods including Flitz, rubbing compound, sand paper, emery cloth, and steel wool. The Flitz, rubbing compound, and steel wool didn't do much. The sand paper and emery cloth worked but were scratching it up. I finally ended up using my Dremel with a polishing wheel and Mibro First Stage Heavy Cleaning buffing and polishing compound. It still took a long, long time. Here is the results http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/bburtensha/outrage/hawse.jpg . I did a little research on this item. There is a Marinium stamp on the top and a the W over C logo stamp underneath. A search on the Internet revealed that this hawse hole pipe was made by Wilcox Crittenden out of a material called Marinium. Marinium is WC's tradename for a proprietary aluminum alloy. According to their web page http://www.wilcox-crittenden.com , Silver Marinium is an alloy of magnesium, titanium, aluminum, beryllium, and other metals. They claim it will not tarnish like bronze, peel like chrome, or bleed like stainless. A search on this site revealed that the Samson post, cleats, and bow lights are made out of the same material. Apparently the post and light fixtures are no longer available but the hawse hole pipes still are.
JBCornwell	posted 01-09-2003 05:54 AM ET (US) Hi, Barry. I polish Marinium parts by removing them and using a cotton buffing wheel on an 8" bench grinder with red buffing rouge. The alloy is so hard that I found no other method produced a high shine and removed micro scratches without endless hours of elbow grease. Red sky at night. . . JB
dreid	posted 01-09-2003 04:55 PM ET (US) Ditto JB's recommendation. The wheel works well, and I went to that only after being amazed at how ineffective elbow greese alone was on the stuff. Yes, you've got to remove the part from the boat, but if you want it done right...
tuna1	posted 01-10-2003 03:30 PM ET (US) A perfect use for "Woody Wax" and bronze wool is any item made of Marinium. If you have never used Woody's wax you won't beleive the job it does. Spray a small amount of Woodys on some bronze wool and then work it into the Marinium surface and let it sit overnight,or a week or more. The longer it remains on the Marinium surface the better job it does on getting down thur the corrosion and removing it.I can not explane how it works but it does what no other product does.Good Luck
Barry	posted 03-09-2003 12:49 PM ET (US) I almost have this polishing thing down and thought I would report back on the technique that I'm using. First here are some pictures of my work: members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/cleats.jpg members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/hawse.jpg members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/lights.jpg members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/rubrail_caps.jpg members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/bit_before.jpg members.aol.com/bburtensha/outrage/bit_after.jpg What's worked best for me is using a Dremel with the #530 stainless steel brush followed by the #520 polishing wheel with polishing compound. I've gone through a couple of brushes and many polishing wheels. I even tried Woody Wax and wasn't impressed with it on the Marinium (although in general it works great on aluminum and stainless). I have been using the Woody Wax Sealant as the final step.
rolfwoods	posted 03-09-2003 08:51 PM ET (US) Barry, Your polishing project looks great. How much time did it take? I have just had my bow lights chrome plated (they look new now at $20 each)and have been planning on sending the hawse pipes, anchor bit and rub rail caps to the plater also. Anybody have any experience w/ chrome plating the marinium parts?? Thanks Rolf