Working with King Starboard - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Working with King Starboard

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Working with King Starboard

hardensheetmetal posted 04-20-2003 07:02 AM ET (US)
I am building a shelf under my console and picked up a piece of 1/2" Starboard. I know the stuff can be worked like wood, but I was wondering if there are any special tricks? I would assume it would be better to uses a circular saw blade with more teeth (like a plywood blade)?
Thanks
Dan
kingfish posted 04-20-2003 07:44 AM ET (US)
Hi, Dan-
Yeah, the more and finer teeth, the cleaner the cut; you can cut it with fewer and coarser teeth too, but not as clean - like wood in that respect.
I'm not thinking of a particular trick to pass on, but I will mention that starboard produces excelsior-like waste instead of saw dust, and it will pack up your saw guard on a hand-held circular saw and the whole exhaust system on a table saw over time if you don't clean it out once in a while. You can grind it and drill it and sand it and achieve a smooth finish with progressively finer sandpaper.
Good luck-
John
hardensheetmetal posted 04-20-2003 11:27 AM ET (US)
Will it take screws just like wood? I know I need to predrill, but will they hold? And what effect will expansion and contraction have on the screwed surface (I guess I am asking if Starboard expands and contracts more or less than wood, lets say teak for example)
Thanks
Dan
jimp posted 04-20-2003 12:08 PM ET (US)
Dan -
I noticed that with power hand tools (circular saw, saber saw) that my "saw dust" would melt behind the cut and I would have to cut twice. So beware of heat build up in the saw. For rough cuts, I used a good hand saw and made slower cuts.
Rasps, files, sand paper, drills, etc all work fine.
I'm very happy with the items I've made: bilge sump covers, stern light base & stand-off, electronics mounting plate, and pole holders.
JimP
kingfish posted 04-20-2003 03:29 PM ET (US)
I rerally don't know anything about the expansion and contraction properties of starboard as compared to other substances. It will take screws, and I understand (although I've never used it) that there is a glue or cement, maybe proprietary, that can be used on starboard. I've used stailess steel sheetmetal screws, drilling the pilot hole at least one size smaller than I would with wood, and used 3M 4200 sealant as a sealant and cement when I wanted something I could rely on more strongly.
kingfish posted 04-20-2003 03:30 PM ET (US)
2nd word of previous post = really.
jstachowiak posted 04-21-2003 12:20 PM ET (US)
I put 1/4" black starboard on top of my console and made the dash out of the same and can tell you it expands a lot in the sun. On a 42" wide top I would say it expands a good 1/4" or a little more.
hardensheetmetal posted 04-21-2003 03:59 PM ET (US)
What happened to the screw holes when it expanded, did they crack, or were they oversized to allow for expansion?
Sammy posted 04-21-2003 11:32 PM ET (US)
The adhesive for use with Starboard or Starboard Lite is 3M Scotch Weld DP 8005 which is labeled as an "Acrylic Structural Plastic" (I'm looking at a twin cylinder tube right now). The manufacturer says do not use epoxies.
The thickest Starboard I've worked with to date is 3/8" for smaller shelves. For shelf supports on the frame I cut two strips 3/4" wide to the length I needed, clamped and glued them together then pre-drilled and used stainless sheet metal screws as if it were wood. They have held up very well (3 years). It'd seem that there would be an even better bite with 1/2" stock. You could always contact the manufacturer to cover the bases.
Nice stuff for a range of applications - it made a great replacement floor for a Zodiac that originally had marine grade plywood. Shelving made out of 1/2" should be stuurrrddeee!
Save your scraps - great for shims and backing plates.
quickfarms posted 04-22-2003 10:49 AM ET (US)
The expansion is 1/32" per runnung foot per 40 degree temperature change.
They recommend that you bore the screw hole in the top piece oversized to allow it to move due to expansion.
check out their website for more information.
www.kingstarboard.com
I am planning on making a rear casting deck for my 13' whaler that would replace the rear seat and run to the motor well.
Has anyone done this before on a 13, 15 or 17?
What thickness starboard should I use?
Does any one have any ideas about how to reinforce it so that it does not bow.
hardensheetmetal posted 04-22-2003 04:28 PM ET (US)
Q-farms-
I was conversing with someone else who was contemplating the fabrication of a casting platform out of Starboard. In the end, he ended up not using it because of the weight factor of the Starboard compared to glassed over plywood.
Dan
Narragansett Outrage posted 06-11-2009 09:57 PM ET (US)
Apparently there are only two adhesives that King Starboard recommends - as mentioned above, 3M Scotch-Weld DP-8005 is one of them. NOT CHEAP.
You have to buy the duo-pack, the applicator with the correct plunger, and the nozzles.
I just spent a bunch of time looking online for the least expensive supplier, and finally went with http://www.bindingsource.com. Their applciator wasn't the cheapest, but it came with the 10:1 plunger, so it worked out to about the same as other places. The duo-packs themselves were the cheapest, as were the nozzles. Shipping wasn't free, but was fair.
JohnL posted 06-12-2009 05:11 PM ET (US)
hardensheetmetal,
I have not had great luck using screws with starboard, under any kind of load. Shelves and stuff like that will be fine. I rebuilt the jib tracks on my sailbaot,(Star) and first time out screws pulled out like butter. I bolt everything when I use starboard now, and have not had any issues.
John L.
R T M posted 06-12-2009 09:03 PM ET (US)
Has anyone ever tried to make bends in starboard with a heatgun like you can do in Plexiglas or will it just melt and never become limber? What is the thinnest you can Buy?
rich/Binkie
masmith posted 06-13-2009 09:35 PM ET (US)
BTM - Checkout Zululander's transom extension on his 22' Outrage on BloodyDecks.com. He has easily handmolded the Starboard to the form of the transom prior to screwing-in the sawn sideplates. Likewise, the top section was hand molded.
masmith posted 06-13-2009 09:36 PM ET (US)
Sorry, RTM
macfam posted 06-14-2009 08:38 AM ET (US)
rich/binkie,
Starboard does bend with a heat gun, beautifully.
However, I found that a datto cut on the reverse side did make the job easier and better. The datto cuts I made were at least 1/4 way into the Starboard, and 1/2 inch wide.
When bending without the datto, it still bent, but left the inside of the bend "bunching" up a bit with the excess starboard. I just didn't like the look.
Scotchweld DP 8005 is an incredible epoxy adhesive. It worked excellent with Starboard.
I've used this adhesive on many marine/household projects, and have actually bought more (keep in refrig to prolong life). Nothing I've used compares.
I'm currently on my laptop, but have pictures at home of the Starboard storage boxes/jump seats that I made for my 25' Revenge WT, if anyone needs pictures.
alfa posted 06-14-2009 09:14 AM ET (US)
"I noticed that with power hand tools (circular saw, saber saw) that my "saw dust" would melt behind the cut and I would have to cut twice. So beware of heat build up in the saw. For rough cuts, I used a good hand saw and made slower cuts."
Like plexiglass, apply adhesive tape on below side. This prevents dust to melt.
My 0.02

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Working with King Starboard
hardensheetmetal	posted 04-20-2003 07:02 AM ET (US) I am building a shelf under my console and picked up a piece of 1/2" Starboard. I know the stuff can be worked like wood, but I was wondering if there are any special tricks? I would assume it would be better to uses a circular saw blade with more teeth (like a plywood blade)? Thanks Dan
kingfish	posted 04-20-2003 07:44 AM ET (US) Hi, Dan- Yeah, the more and finer teeth, the cleaner the cut; you can cut it with fewer and coarser teeth too, but not as clean - like wood in that respect. I'm not thinking of a particular trick to pass on, but I will mention that starboard produces excelsior-like waste instead of saw dust, and it will pack up your saw guard on a hand-held circular saw and the whole exhaust system on a table saw over time if you don't clean it out once in a while. You can grind it and drill it and sand it and achieve a smooth finish with progressively finer sandpaper. Good luck- John
hardensheetmetal	posted 04-20-2003 11:27 AM ET (US) Will it take screws just like wood? I know I need to predrill, but will they hold? And what effect will expansion and contraction have on the screwed surface (I guess I am asking if Starboard expands and contracts more or less than wood, lets say teak for example) Thanks Dan
jimp	posted 04-20-2003 12:08 PM ET (US) Dan - I noticed that with power hand tools (circular saw, saber saw) that my "saw dust" would melt behind the cut and I would have to cut twice. So beware of heat build up in the saw. For rough cuts, I used a good hand saw and made slower cuts. Rasps, files, sand paper, drills, etc all work fine. I'm very happy with the items I've made: bilge sump covers, stern light base & stand-off, electronics mounting plate, and pole holders. JimP
kingfish	posted 04-20-2003 03:29 PM ET (US) I rerally don't know anything about the expansion and contraction properties of starboard as compared to other substances. It will take screws, and I understand (although I've never used it) that there is a glue or cement, maybe proprietary, that can be used on starboard. I've used stailess steel sheetmetal screws, drilling the pilot hole at least one size smaller than I would with wood, and used 3M 4200 sealant as a sealant and cement when I wanted something I could rely on more strongly.
kingfish	posted 04-20-2003 03:30 PM ET (US) 2nd word of previous post = really.
jstachowiak	posted 04-21-2003 12:20 PM ET (US) I put 1/4" black starboard on top of my console and made the dash out of the same and can tell you it expands a lot in the sun. On a 42" wide top I would say it expands a good 1/4" or a little more.
hardensheetmetal	posted 04-21-2003 03:59 PM ET (US) What happened to the screw holes when it expanded, did they crack, or were they oversized to allow for expansion?
Sammy	posted 04-21-2003 11:32 PM ET (US) The adhesive for use with Starboard or Starboard Lite is 3M Scotch Weld DP 8005 which is labeled as an "Acrylic Structural Plastic" (I'm looking at a twin cylinder tube right now). The manufacturer says do not use epoxies. The thickest Starboard I've worked with to date is 3/8" for smaller shelves. For shelf supports on the frame I cut two strips 3/4" wide to the length I needed, clamped and glued them together then pre-drilled and used stainless sheet metal screws as if it were wood. They have held up very well (3 years). It'd seem that there would be an even better bite with 1/2" stock. You could always contact the manufacturer to cover the bases. Nice stuff for a range of applications - it made a great replacement floor for a Zodiac that originally had marine grade plywood. Shelving made out of 1/2" should be stuurrrddeee! Save your scraps - great for shims and backing plates.
quickfarms	posted 04-22-2003 10:49 AM ET (US) The expansion is 1/32" per runnung foot per 40 degree temperature change. They recommend that you bore the screw hole in the top piece oversized to allow it to move due to expansion. check out their website for more information. www.kingstarboard.com I am planning on making a rear casting deck for my 13' whaler that would replace the rear seat and run to the motor well. Has anyone done this before on a 13, 15 or 17? What thickness starboard should I use? Does any one have any ideas about how to reinforce it so that it does not bow.
hardensheetmetal	posted 04-22-2003 04:28 PM ET (US) Q-farms- I was conversing with someone else who was contemplating the fabrication of a casting platform out of Starboard. In the end, he ended up not using it because of the weight factor of the Starboard compared to glassed over plywood. Dan
Narragansett Outrage	posted 06-11-2009 09:57 PM ET (US) Apparently there are only two adhesives that King Starboard recommends - as mentioned above, 3M Scotch-Weld DP-8005 is one of them. NOT CHEAP. You have to buy the duo-pack, the applicator with the correct plunger, and the nozzles. I just spent a bunch of time looking online for the least expensive supplier, and finally went with http://www.bindingsource.com. Their applciator wasn't the cheapest, but it came with the 10:1 plunger, so it worked out to about the same as other places. The duo-packs themselves were the cheapest, as were the nozzles. Shipping wasn't free, but was fair.
JohnL	posted 06-12-2009 05:11 PM ET (US) hardensheetmetal, I have not had great luck using screws with starboard, under any kind of load. Shelves and stuff like that will be fine. I rebuilt the jib tracks on my sailbaot,(Star) and first time out screws pulled out like butter. I bolt everything when I use starboard now, and have not had any issues. John L.
R T M	posted 06-12-2009 09:03 PM ET (US) Has anyone ever tried to make bends in starboard with a heatgun like you can do in Plexiglas or will it just melt and never become limber? What is the thinnest you can Buy? rich/Binkie
masmith	posted 06-13-2009 09:35 PM ET (US) BTM - Checkout Zululander's transom extension on his 22' Outrage on BloodyDecks.com. He has easily handmolded the Starboard to the form of the transom prior to screwing-in the sawn sideplates. Likewise, the top section was hand molded.
masmith	posted 06-13-2009 09:36 PM ET (US) Sorry, RTM
macfam	posted 06-14-2009 08:38 AM ET (US) rich/binkie, Starboard does bend with a heat gun, beautifully. However, I found that a datto cut on the reverse side did make the job easier and better. The datto cuts I made were at least 1/4 way into the Starboard, and 1/2 inch wide. When bending without the datto, it still bent, but left the inside of the bend "bunching" up a bit with the excess starboard. I just didn't like the look. Scotchweld DP 8005 is an incredible epoxy adhesive. It worked excellent with Starboard. I've used this adhesive on many marine/household projects, and have actually bought more (keep in refrig to prolong life). Nothing I've used compares. I'm currently on my laptop, but have pictures at home of the Starboard storage boxes/jump seats that I made for my 25' Revenge WT, if anyone needs pictures.
alfa	posted 06-14-2009 09:14 AM ET (US) "I noticed that with power hand tools (circular saw, saber saw) that my "saw dust" would melt behind the cut and I would have to cut twice. So beware of heat build up in the saw. For rough cuts, I used a good hand saw and made slower cuts." Like plexiglass, apply adhesive tape on below side. This prevents dust to melt. My 0.02