Replacement Rubrail new black two piece or the old three piece?

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  Replacement Rubrail new black two piece or the old three piece?

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Author Topic:   Replacement Rubrail new black two piece or the old three piece?

NHKatama posted 04-29-2003 11:51 PM ET (US)
My Katama is coming along real well. After the compounding and wax job on the hull it look brand new, I will post picts soon. It is currently sitting on a brand new Loadmaster Alum trailer.
Anyway, I still need to replace the rubrail. I need to decide whether to use the old style 3 piece gray and black, (or is it tan and black) rubrail, or the new heavier 2 piece black. My current rubrail is the 3 piece white and black, which is no longer available.
MY boat has the old BLue interior so not sure how the gray/tan one will look.
So all of you out there that have done rubrails, how are both the old style and new style to replace? and which would most of you use on the old blue interior boat. Also the new one looks beefier, does it hold up, better than the old style?
Again many thanks to you all for your great advise, thanks to you my boat is coming out great !! It looks better than new !
Blue skys to you all, ~~~Pete
California Whaler posted 04-30-2003 12:09 AM ET (US)
Pete,
I had the three piece rubrail. The off white part was yellowed, cracked and all around in bad shape. The outboard motor shop in Alameda sold me on the two piece, commercial (or a least that's what they called it).
Removal of the old one was easy. Cleanup underneath was easy. Installation was tough. Make sure you have a way to warm up the new rail, or you'll fight it the whole way. I filled the bath with hot water and soaked it. Then I sealed all the old rivit holes after drilling them out with 5200 sealant. Watch the bow light wiring when drilling the new holes for screws, make sure you mark the old holes to assure you don't drill there. Don't forget to seal new holes.
The transom was difficult to bend around so I stopped short. The trim for the transom sucked and 1 went back to Boston whaler and found some heavy duty metal ones powder coated black, the perfect finishing touch.
The insert was tapped in with a rubber mallet. I've bumped a few things since install. Somethings cause a whitish mark which comes off with a little elbow grease.
Total install took me half a day, with a few beer breaks.
Kelly
NHKatama posted 05-02-2003 07:57 PM ET (US)
Anyone replace the 3 piece rub rail lately, which is easier to install the 3 piece or the new black two piece rubrail? Well if any experience out there please let me know,
Thanks, ~~~~Pete
Dick posted 05-02-2003 10:42 PM ET (US)
NHKatama
I thing the installation time will be about the same for both.
The new rub rail part #500-05017 is the commercial division rub rail. It is stout and all black, I think it would be the best option.
When you fill the old holes use Marine Tex not 5200, with Marine Tex it doesn't matter where you drill the new holes.
Dick

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Author	Topic: Replacement Rubrail new black two piece or the old three piece?
NHKatama	posted 04-29-2003 11:51 PM ET (US) My Katama is coming along real well. After the compounding and wax job on the hull it look brand new, I will post picts soon. It is currently sitting on a brand new Loadmaster Alum trailer. Anyway, I still need to replace the rubrail. I need to decide whether to use the old style 3 piece gray and black, (or is it tan and black) rubrail, or the new heavier 2 piece black. My current rubrail is the 3 piece white and black, which is no longer available. MY boat has the old BLue interior so not sure how the gray/tan one will look. So all of you out there that have done rubrails, how are both the old style and new style to replace? and which would most of you use on the old blue interior boat. Also the new one looks beefier, does it hold up, better than the old style? Again many thanks to you all for your great advise, thanks to you my boat is coming out great !! It looks better than new ! Blue skys to you all, ~~~Pete
California Whaler	posted 04-30-2003 12:09 AM ET (US) Pete, I had the three piece rubrail. The off white part was yellowed, cracked and all around in bad shape. The outboard motor shop in Alameda sold me on the two piece, commercial (or a least that's what they called it). Removal of the old one was easy. Cleanup underneath was easy. Installation was tough. Make sure you have a way to warm up the new rail, or you'll fight it the whole way. I filled the bath with hot water and soaked it. Then I sealed all the old rivit holes after drilling them out with 5200 sealant. Watch the bow light wiring when drilling the new holes for screws, make sure you mark the old holes to assure you don't drill there. Don't forget to seal new holes. The transom was difficult to bend around so I stopped short. The trim for the transom sucked and 1 went back to Boston whaler and found some heavy duty metal ones powder coated black, the perfect finishing touch. The insert was tapped in with a rubber mallet. I've bumped a few things since install. Somethings cause a whitish mark which comes off with a little elbow grease. Total install took me half a day, with a few beer breaks. Kelly
NHKatama	posted 05-02-2003 07:57 PM ET (US) Anyone replace the 3 piece rub rail lately, which is easier to install the 3 piece or the new black two piece rubrail? Well if any experience out there please let me know, Thanks, ~~~~Pete
Dick	posted 05-02-2003 10:42 PM ET (US) NHKatama I thing the installation time will be about the same for both. The new rub rail part #500-05017 is the commercial division rub rail. It is stout and all black, I think it would be the best option. When you fill the old holes use Marine Tex not 5200, with Marine Tex it doesn't matter where you drill the new holes. Dick