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Author Topic:   Waxing Non-skid areas of floor?

4WHALERS posted 05-22-2003 01:39 PM ET (US)
Does anyone have a good method of treating/waxing the non-skid areas of the floor. Its easy to get wax on but the off is the problem. It should help keep the non-skid area cleaner. Any tricks?
tuna1 posted 05-22-2003 01:51 PM ET (US)
Try "Woody Wax" it's the next best thing to slice bread.
http://www.woody-wax.com
Taylor posted 05-22-2003 05:36 PM ET (US)
Does anyone have a reasonably priced source for Woody Wax? Not only do they want twenty bucks for 8 ounces (which I can sort of handle) they want another eight bucks in shipping and handling.
Barry posted 05-22-2003 06:30 PM ET (US)
Try http://www.boatfix.com/
doobee posted 05-24-2003 11:26 PM ET (US)
I don't recommend waxing nonskid areas. Nonskid with wax on it is no longer non skid. I keep mine clean with a scrub brush and leave it at that.
folivier posted 05-25-2003 09:30 AM ET (US)
Try using a clear liquid vinyl floor wax (Future?). I've used that on non-skid before and it doesn't make it slippery, much easier to clean. Also if you need to remove it just use ammonia or floor wax remover.
kingfish posted 06-01-2003 10:34 AM ET (US)
I'm going to go out on a limb here, because at first blush it does seem contrary to logic, but the non-skid in the Whalers I've been in is a molded "mechanical" sharp edged pattern in the gelcoat, and it is those deformations that make it non-skid, not the absence of wax. It is still gelcoat and subject to the same deleterious forces as the gelcoat on the rest of the boat, with the added issue of being walked on, and typically having all manner of grit worked into it.
I'm of the opinion, and I walk the talk, that the non-skid should be waxed just like any other gelcoat surface. I'm unfamiliar with Woody Wax, but I use Meguiars Color Restorer, Polish, and Wax on the non-skid on my Outrage 22; the only caveat is that due to its non-skiddedness, extra care has to be taken to get any excess material out of the grooves and creases, with clean, thick terry cloths, by hand, rubbing back and forth on the direction of the grain of the non-skid.
I have found when treated this way, my non-skid is more effective than when left to its own, plus it looks better.
kingfish
John W posted 06-02-2003 10:17 AM ET (US)
I have always waxed or polished the nonskid sections of every gelcoat finished boat I've owned, for the reasons kingfish describes. On an older boat the wax or polish will remove oxidation and protect the gelcoat, and the decks are the most sun-beaten areas on most boats. But waxing nonskid CAN make it slick, and perhaps even dangerous if the decks are wet. What I've done lately is to polish the decks once or twice a year (I use the Starbright Teflon polish), and then use woody wax over that...the polish gets rid of oxidation & results in a clean, protected surface, and the woody wax prevents slipping and resists getting dirty. You'll have to use the woody wax fairly frequently, though...it doesn't last very long.
One thing to note: Woody Wax does not contain any UV inhibitors, per the person I spoke to at the company on the phone. It's pretty good stuff for decks, because dirt doesn't stick well to it but your shoes won't slip on it, and it's easy to apply. But I don't know how much "protection" (if any) it really provides your gelcoat.
If your gelcoat is in good condition and you keep it out of the sun, I'd just go with the woody wax. If your gelcoat is old & porous like mine, or if you keep the boat in the sun, use wax as well.
whalerdude posted 06-16-2003 09:53 PM ET (US)
Do I need to get the Woody wax and sealant or just the woody wax?
Do I need to polish the non skid first?
Bigshot posted 06-17-2003 10:47 AM ET (US)
I have heard many old blue owners(smirkless) use Penetrol on the floors. Any users want to comment on application and longevity, etc?

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Author	Topic: Waxing Non-skid areas of floor?
4WHALERS	posted 05-22-2003 01:39 PM ET (US) Does anyone have a good method of treating/waxing the non-skid areas of the floor. Its easy to get wax on but the off is the problem. It should help keep the non-skid area cleaner. Any tricks?
tuna1	posted 05-22-2003 01:51 PM ET (US) Try "Woody Wax" it's the next best thing to slice bread. http://www.woody-wax.com
Taylor	posted 05-22-2003 05:36 PM ET (US) Does anyone have a reasonably priced source for Woody Wax? Not only do they want twenty bucks for 8 ounces (which I can sort of handle) they want another eight bucks in shipping and handling.
Barry	posted 05-22-2003 06:30 PM ET (US) Try http://www.boatfix.com/
doobee	posted 05-24-2003 11:26 PM ET (US) I don't recommend waxing nonskid areas. Nonskid with wax on it is no longer non skid. I keep mine clean with a scrub brush and leave it at that.
folivier	posted 05-25-2003 09:30 AM ET (US) Try using a clear liquid vinyl floor wax (Future?). I've used that on non-skid before and it doesn't make it slippery, much easier to clean. Also if you need to remove it just use ammonia or floor wax remover.
kingfish	posted 06-01-2003 10:34 AM ET (US) I'm going to go out on a limb here, because at first blush it does seem contrary to logic, but the non-skid in the Whalers I've been in is a molded "mechanical" sharp edged pattern in the gelcoat, and it is those deformations that make it non-skid, not the absence of wax. It is still gelcoat and subject to the same deleterious forces as the gelcoat on the rest of the boat, with the added issue of being walked on, and typically having all manner of grit worked into it. I'm of the opinion, and I walk the talk, that the non-skid should be waxed just like any other gelcoat surface. I'm unfamiliar with Woody Wax, but I use Meguiars Color Restorer, Polish, and Wax on the non-skid on my Outrage 22; the only caveat is that due to its non-skiddedness, extra care has to be taken to get any excess material out of the grooves and creases, with clean, thick terry cloths, by hand, rubbing back and forth on the direction of the grain of the non-skid. I have found when treated this way, my non-skid is more effective than when left to its own, plus it looks better. kingfish
John W	posted 06-02-2003 10:17 AM ET (US) I have always waxed or polished the nonskid sections of every gelcoat finished boat I've owned, for the reasons kingfish describes. On an older boat the wax or polish will remove oxidation and protect the gelcoat, and the decks are the most sun-beaten areas on most boats. But waxing nonskid CAN make it slick, and perhaps even dangerous if the decks are wet. What I've done lately is to polish the decks once or twice a year (I use the Starbright Teflon polish), and then use woody wax over that...the polish gets rid of oxidation & results in a clean, protected surface, and the woody wax prevents slipping and resists getting dirty. You'll have to use the woody wax fairly frequently, though...it doesn't last very long. One thing to note: Woody Wax does not contain any UV inhibitors, per the person I spoke to at the company on the phone. It's pretty good stuff for decks, because dirt doesn't stick well to it but your shoes won't slip on it, and it's easy to apply. But I don't know how much "protection" (if any) it really provides your gelcoat. If your gelcoat is in good condition and you keep it out of the sun, I'd just go with the woody wax. If your gelcoat is old & porous like mine, or if you keep the boat in the sun, use wax as well.
whalerdude	posted 06-16-2003 09:53 PM ET (US) Do I need to get the Woody wax and sealant or just the woody wax? Do I need to polish the non skid first?
Bigshot	posted 06-17-2003 10:47 AM ET (US) I have heard many old blue owners(smirkless) use Penetrol on the floors. Any users want to comment on application and longevity, etc?