posted 05-31-2003 12:57 AM ET (US)        

I had hoped to restore my 22' to it's original condition, but the challenges proved too great giving my limited abilities and my time and financial constraints. After much agonizing, I finally decided that my 22' would have to become a "custom" boat - in large part because of the extent of the small cosmetic damage that proved so difficult to repair perfectly. By the time the small structural stuff was repaired the entire boat needed to either be re-gelcoated or painted. I decided on the latter for a number of reasons.

She doesn't have the classic look, but I think she's going to be pretty in the same way that DIVE 1 is pretty. She'll be functional, durable, clean and unique.

After months of grinding, filling, reinforcing, and fairing, I finally had my boat sprayed over the last two weeks. She's got awlgrip on her topsides and Dolphinite "go fast" paint on the bottom. The non-skid areas are being prepped and sprayed with Line-X, as are some of the flexible panels and fittings around the boat. I'll forward pictures as the reassembly progresses.

posted 06-02-2003 01:49 PM ET (US)            

I chose the Line-X because it adheres well, it's flexible, it's easy to clean and repair, it's extremely durable, and it's not slippery when wet. It's also available in a dark gray. Still, I've never seen it used this way. We'll see how it turns out.

I didn't want to just spray the stuff all over the interior, because I thought it would look awful and I wanted to make sure the deck panels could still be easily removed (so the seams couldn't be glued shut).

I'm hopeful that spraying only the non-skid will give the deck a "commercial" appearance - sort of like the decks on the Coast Guard's "30-boat".

I also had several flanges and other plastic pieces that were broken and in need of replacement - but they're not manufactured anymore and I couldn't find used ones anywhere. I chose to reform the broken pieces and then encapsulate them in the Line-X. The repair worked very well. (I did this with the two flanges that house the thru-hulls for the bilge pumps, and the side pieces that cover the fuel hose and wiring. The new pieces are flexible and heavy.)

Knowing the local business that applies the Line-X helped give me the courage to move forward with this project. The stuff can be improperly applied with disastrous results, so you have to have an applicator using the right primer and technique.

posted 06-02-2003 09:31 PM ET (US)            

I think Line-X is as permanant as 5200 and then some. I'm sure it's possible to get it off, but it must be a real bear.

I tore a small edge away from my pickup bed when I backed a sharp aluminum edge into the side of the bed while I was loading my 3200 lb camper. When the Line-X guy saw the small cut he told me I could fix it with "Super-glue", as the bonding agent in Super Glue was one of the primary ingredients in Line-X.

posted 06-06-2003 09:46 PM ET (US)            

This afternoon we got some of the wire pulled, re-fitted the rub rail, and installed the bow rail.

Tomorrow I'll install the hatches, work on the console wiring and, hopefully, get the radar arch installed.

posted 06-07-2003 11:14 PM ET (US)            

Today I ran the wire for the navigation lights, finished the rub rail installation (except the insert), installed the stainless trim pieces aft, placed the hatch covers for shimming, and placed the radar arch for sizing and cutting.

posted 06-08-2003 08:36 AM ET (US)            

I bought the green vinyl striping material several months ago. The plan is to put a 2" stripe around the top of the console and, yes, an accent stripe on the motors.

posted 06-09-2003 10:21 PM ET (US)            

Hearing you talk of fly fishing is a reminder of how long my boat project has taken. It was summer/fall steelhead season when I got started.

I'm planning to get her out for a couple hours on a lake before opening weekend of Silver season - and that's less than two weeks away. If I'm able to take this coming Friday off I'll be able to put three days of assembly together for the final push. Assuming the hydraulic steering goes in easily, that should get it pretty well whipped.

posted 06-25-2003 12:25 AM ET (US)            

Jim, the non skid panels are Line-X (the truck bed-liner stuff), as are the enclosures, both of the aft thru-hull flanges, and all of the lockers/wells. I also had a new dash panel fabricated out of aluminum and covered it in the Line-X. It's amazing stuff. It's great to walk on and nearly impossible to chip or scratch.

I'm hoping to get the rest of the little stuff done over the next few weeks. I still have to install the scuppers, rod holders, downriggers, and grab rails.

I've enjoyed the project, but it's worn us all out. I'm ready for a little balance in my life :) (like boat USE instead of restoration.)

posted 06-25-2003 01:01 AM ET (US)         

Congratulations on a tastefully and carefully planned and executed restoration. The boat looks beautiful!

posted 11-21-2003 04:34 PM ET (US)            

Thinking of spraying all of the interior of a 1967 16'7. I hear Rhino-liner comes in many colors and it is really tempting me....

posted 11-22-2003 06:28 PM ET (US)            

It was fairly expensive, but the Awlgrip/Line-X combination was still substantially cheaper than the quote I got for redoing the gelcoat and factory non-skid.

I agree with you on the color. It has grown on me a bit - but I still wish I had't done it.

posted 11-27-2003 08:37 AM ET (US)            

I like to go barefoot in the boat and in the summer with full sun it is too hot on my feet.

The boat was like that when I bought it but I may change it to off white later.

It does hide the fish blood very well.

The red/white seats and top sound great.

posted 11-27-2003 09:11 AM ET (US)            

I can send you pics of my deck if you want them.

posted 11-28-2003 09:09 PM ET (US)            

You should look at the texture of each of the products before you decide which material you wish to use for your deck. Line-X and Rhino-Liner have very different finishes. It wasn't a close call for me.

The cost per square foot will rise quickly if you don't want the stuff sprayed all over everything. I wanted non-skid panels, not non-skid everything, so I paid for the substantial additional prep time.

I bought a new GM diesel truck 1982. The transmission blew up at 12,000 miles - withOUT any towing. After sitting in the shop for almost a month, they finally got the 700 series transmission repaired, but it blew up again at 16,000 miles. I promptly sold the truck. My buddy kept his and had a long series of very expensive repairs. That was the last time I gambled on a GM diesel.