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Author Topic:   Stator fixed/lower unit going

tomroe posted 07-02-2003 04:50 PM ET (US)
After advice from this forum, I pulled the flywheel and replaced the stator with a used one I had. The magnets on the flywheel were loose as well, so on goes a new (used) flywheel. It would not start, plenty of spark and fuel, ran a little on ether. Stumped the local mechanic. Come to find out, the 235 has different models of stators and the used one was not the right match. Yup, I should have checked first. Pulled the flywheel again (we are getting good at it)and put on the old stator with new flywheel. Runs great, must have been the magnets. Not sure what it tachs out at, as the tach wasn't working. Anyway, about 15 minutes into our victory lap, the engine revs up and the prop starts slipping. Had to run it back at about 4 mph. The good news is on the way in I got the tach working. It won't go over 2000 rpm's without slipping. Where do I start (besides looking for a new motor) looking? Should I drop the lower unit and check gears, etc.?
Jarhead posted 07-02-2003 05:25 PM ET (US)
Sounds like you spun a hub... Bub.:)
Sal DiMercurio posted 07-02-2003 05:30 PM ET (US)
Relax, it's not the lower unit, you spun the hub on the prop.
Take it to the prop shop & have em re-hub it, might run you between $50.00 & $100.00
When the hub breaksw loose from the prop, it will hold together till about 2,000 rpms max, then it slips.
The cost of a new lower unit installed is about $3,000.00
Be thankful it's "ONLY gonna cast you the $50 - $100.
Sal
tomroe posted 07-02-2003 10:41 PM ET (US)
Now I'm relaxed, best news I've had today. It was a pretty sad ride home. I think I'll toss the prop and go for a SST 14.25 x 19 as suggested by Sal in an earlier post. I am also getting two rooster tales from the anticavitation plate so will raise the engine up one more set of holes. I'll let you know what it does.
DJS posted 07-03-2003 08:06 AM ET (US)
tomroe,
Rather than just tossing the prop, why not have it repaired and carry it for a spare. Just my 2 cents.
David
tomroe posted 07-03-2003 09:18 AM ET (US)
Good idea.
jimh posted 07-03-2003 08:33 PM ET (US)
Congratulations on your success in removing the flywheel. I'd like to hear elaboration of how that was done. This is from someone who once spent three weekends trying to get mine loose.
tomroe posted 07-03-2003 11:12 PM ET (US)
The short answer is that I have a twenty year old son who wants to boat.
The first time, we made a steel plate with a large hole (2"+/-) in the center and 3 holes for the bolts that go into the holes in the flywheel about 2" from the center. We bolted the plate to the flywheel (1/4 - 28 capscrews) and hooked a standard gear puller onto the plate with the center bolt on whatever you call the thing the flywheel bolts onto. I'm sure there is a correct name for it, like the crankshaft, but it escapes me now. That all was after we removed the nut from the aforementioned thing the flywheel bolts onto. That done, my son cranks on the center bolt of the puller with a 36" crescent wrench also aided by about 4' of pipe. I put a bigger pipe through the gear puller to keep the engine from turning. At about the time we are getting concerned that maybe this is not the correct way to do this (the shop manual is still back ordered) the flywheel pops off (about 18" high) and all is well.
The second (and third)time we refined our procedure and welded a nut on the plate with a 1" bolt down through the middle and a handle on the plate to hold the engine from turning. That worked very well, but it still takes more force than you would think necessary, but it had been on for 18 years.
As long as you don't try to patent it, you are welcome to use the tool.
Steve Leone posted 07-07-2003 01:59 AM ET (US)
If you smacked the top of the bolt with a 3lb sledge when it is loaded up it would come off even easier. I have had to carfully use a propane torch to heat a flywheel in order to remove it. That was with the factory puller to boot. Steve
tomroe posted 07-07-2003 08:56 AM ET (US)
We discussed the hammer method but figured that there were too many internal parts that might not like it.

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Author	Topic: Stator fixed/lower unit going
tomroe	posted 07-02-2003 04:50 PM ET (US) After advice from this forum, I pulled the flywheel and replaced the stator with a used one I had. The magnets on the flywheel were loose as well, so on goes a new (used) flywheel. It would not start, plenty of spark and fuel, ran a little on ether. Stumped the local mechanic. Come to find out, the 235 has different models of stators and the used one was not the right match. Yup, I should have checked first. Pulled the flywheel again (we are getting good at it)and put on the old stator with new flywheel. Runs great, must have been the magnets. Not sure what it tachs out at, as the tach wasn't working. Anyway, about 15 minutes into our victory lap, the engine revs up and the prop starts slipping. Had to run it back at about 4 mph. The good news is on the way in I got the tach working. It won't go over 2000 rpm's without slipping. Where do I start (besides looking for a new motor) looking? Should I drop the lower unit and check gears, etc.?
Jarhead	posted 07-02-2003 05:25 PM ET (US) Sounds like you spun a hub... Bub.:)
Sal DiMercurio	posted 07-02-2003 05:30 PM ET (US) Relax, it's not the lower unit, you spun the hub on the prop. Take it to the prop shop & have em re-hub it, might run you between $50.00 & $100.00 When the hub breaksw loose from the prop, it will hold together till about 2,000 rpms max, then it slips. The cost of a new lower unit installed is about $3,000.00 Be thankful it's "ONLY gonna cast you the $50 - $100. Sal
tomroe	posted 07-02-2003 10:41 PM ET (US) Now I'm relaxed, best news I've had today. It was a pretty sad ride home. I think I'll toss the prop and go for a SST 14.25 x 19 as suggested by Sal in an earlier post. I am also getting two rooster tales from the anticavitation plate so will raise the engine up one more set of holes. I'll let you know what it does.
DJS	posted 07-03-2003 08:06 AM ET (US) tomroe, Rather than just tossing the prop, why not have it repaired and carry it for a spare. Just my 2 cents. David
tomroe	posted 07-03-2003 09:18 AM ET (US) Good idea.
jimh	posted 07-03-2003 08:33 PM ET (US) Congratulations on your success in removing the flywheel. I'd like to hear elaboration of how that was done. This is from someone who once spent three weekends trying to get mine loose.
tomroe	posted 07-03-2003 11:12 PM ET (US) The short answer is that I have a twenty year old son who wants to boat. The first time, we made a steel plate with a large hole (2"+/-) in the center and 3 holes for the bolts that go into the holes in the flywheel about 2" from the center. We bolted the plate to the flywheel (1/4 - 28 capscrews) and hooked a standard gear puller onto the plate with the center bolt on whatever you call the thing the flywheel bolts onto. I'm sure there is a correct name for it, like the crankshaft, but it escapes me now. That all was after we removed the nut from the aforementioned thing the flywheel bolts onto. That done, my son cranks on the center bolt of the puller with a 36" crescent wrench also aided by about 4' of pipe. I put a bigger pipe through the gear puller to keep the engine from turning. At about the time we are getting concerned that maybe this is not the correct way to do this (the shop manual is still back ordered) the flywheel pops off (about 18" high) and all is well. The second (and third)time we refined our procedure and welded a nut on the plate with a 1" bolt down through the middle and a handle on the plate to hold the engine from turning. That worked very well, but it still takes more force than you would think necessary, but it had been on for 18 years. As long as you don't try to patent it, you are welcome to use the tool.
Steve Leone	posted 07-07-2003 01:59 AM ET (US) If you smacked the top of the bolt with a 3lb sledge when it is loaded up it would come off even easier. I have had to carfully use a propane torch to heat a flywheel in order to remove it. That was with the factory puller to boot. Steve
tomroe	posted 07-07-2003 08:56 AM ET (US) We discussed the hammer method but figured that there were too many internal parts that might not like it.