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Author Topic:   Buffing wheels and polishing pads?

george nagy posted 08-26-2003 11:42 AM ET (US)
I'm restoring the bottom of my outrage and have begun to assemble the tools and materials needed to patch and then buff the gelcoat back to a (mirror)shine.
I have an hitachi polisher/sander and was wondering which pads to use for each step?
Could anyone help me finish this list?
All Steps After sanding to 600 wet
Step 1.-compounding, applied and or removed with what pads, foam or terry?
Step 2.-finnese-it, applied and or removed with what pads? speed etc...?
Step 3.-color restorer polish, applied and or removed with what pads or bonnets? speed etc...?
Step 4.-collonites wax, probably applied by hand and removed by hand.

The selection and prices for these polishing and buffing accessories at my local marine and home centers is poor at best so I was hoping to find a good internet supplier.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Bigshot posted 08-26-2003 12:31 PM ET (US)
Foam or terry is your preference.
Skip step 3, color restorer is harsher than finesse so it will undo step 2. Personally I would skip step 2 and do step 3 then wax. I would not waste $30/qt finesse on the bottom of the hull.
Foam absorbs liquid more than terry, foam I like better on compounding but terry with wax.
george nagy posted 08-26-2003 01:26 PM ET (US)
Yes, I have reversed steps 2 and 3 sometimes on the topsides I skip the compound and begin with color restorer then finesse-it.
Do you apply each substance with a pad and then buff with another pad, or just apply then hand buff?
SSILVER posted 08-26-2003 01:29 PM ET (US)
Hey Bigshot I have a couple of questions for you,
What about using wool w/ compound? My brother in-law used compound to bring back the shine on an old Blazer I had a few years ago.
I recently removed 16 years of oxidation from a Red Stingray boat for my neighbor using 3-M Rubbing Compound and a Sears 2 speed 6" sander/polisher w/ a syn.. wool bonnet. The sander/polisher came w/ one wool bonnet and wallmarts had the rest. Seems that the wool bonnets in 6" are hard to find as most of the body guys use a 10" wheel.
Anyhow I had planned on going over my Newport w/ the same setup to make her shine.
The 3-M bottle recomended some 3-M pad (which I do not remember which one) that I could not find. West Marine and the local autoparts stores sold the Wool Bonnet on a pad ment to be used w/ a drill.
I did not even try terry or foam because of the success I had w/ the Wool setup, do they work better?
Also I have a nearly full bottle of 3-M Auto Glaze and was thinking about trying that on the Newport and thoughts on that idea.
Thanks,
Sean
Bigshot posted 08-26-2003 01:39 PM ET (US)
I have the sears 7" polisher and I use the 10" pad. They come with a hard backing so they fit any size. I like the bigger pad plus it is more forgiving being the ends will bend, not burn.
Bigshot posted 08-26-2003 01:41 PM ET (US)
Missed your post George.
I apply and buff with same pad, just keep going until it is pretty much removed then wipe with a towel the residue. For each step I would clean the pad which basically entails running a flat tool along the pad until the dust stops.
whalerdude posted 08-27-2003 07:15 PM ET (US)
I found great velcro polisher wheels with removable velcro pads from this company:
http://www.topoftheline.com/porcaborpol.html
I use them with my porter cable random orbit polisher
lhg posted 09-03-2003 07:59 PM ET (US)
George - I would sand finer than #600. Wet sanding is easier and requires less effort than rubbing compound (the red stuff), and gives more consistent results.
I would wet sand through #1000, #1500 & #2000. Then use the Mequires #44, etc. Results will be factory.
SpeedBump posted 09-03-2003 09:08 PM ET (US)
I am always concerned about wet sanding through the gelcoat when using a lower grit wet /dry paper 400 - 600 grit and especially when sanding an older boat not knowing how much sanding had been done by prior owners.
If it is a painted surface I am not concerned as a touch up is always possible but sanding through the gelcoat the repair is much more difficult.
I understand that the fiberglass is different colors as you get through the three different levels but I would hate to sand through the blue gel coat of my classic and hit that yellowish/green surface below..
At what point do you stop? What are the tell tail signs of sanding too far?
John O posted 09-03-2003 09:11 PM ET (US)
I concur with the 1000,1500. and then 2000. I did this to the gel coat on the transom and above the water line and it worked well. I also compounded by hand with a clean cloth with a 3M Marine fiberglass compound than Finesse, I finished with 2 coats of Fleet wax on a Sears $39.00 buffer.
Looks great.
John O posted 09-03-2003 09:11 PM ET (US)
PS You must WET SAND !!!!!!!!!!!!!
lhg posted 09-04-2003 03:20 PM ET (US)
These super-fine grades of automotive wet sand paper do not remove much gelcoat at all. They are basically doing the polishing work, making it much easier and uniform. Rubbing compound is MUCH more abrasive than these papers. By the time you have used the #2000, the gelcoat is already looking highly polished. Listening to the "sound" is important, as you can tell and feel when the work is completed with a given grade.
kingfish posted 09-04-2003 03:32 PM ET (US)
Larry-
E-mail me - your e-mail is on the fritz again or something-
jcf
george nagy posted 09-29-2003 09:36 AM ET (US)
I must agree on WET SANDING sentimants expressed by others in this post. I have begun to wet sand to 1000 and the finish already looks great!
I have had some difficulty however locating 2000 grit papers.
It sure doesn't take much effort to get professional results. I plan on finishing with finesse-it since I already have a bottle.
I'm contemplating if I should wet sand the rest of the hull inside and out or just finesse-it.
Thanks again guys!
lhg posted 09-30-2003 05:36 PM ET (US)
George - the finer 1000-2000 grades are available at Pep Boys or similar auto parts places. The Marine stores don't seem to cary them.
HAPPYJIM posted 10-01-2003 05:54 AM ET (US)
I picked up a package of 10 FULL sheet 1500 grit at Harbor Freight store for $5.99.
The auto parts store wanted $1.50 for a half sheet.

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Author	Topic: Buffing wheels and polishing pads?
george nagy	posted 08-26-2003 11:42 AM ET (US) I'm restoring the bottom of my outrage and have begun to assemble the tools and materials needed to patch and then buff the gelcoat back to a (mirror)shine. I have an hitachi polisher/sander and was wondering which pads to use for each step? Could anyone help me finish this list? All Steps After sanding to 600 wet Step 1.-compounding, applied and or removed with what pads, foam or terry? Step 2.-finnese-it, applied and or removed with what pads? speed etc...? Step 3.-color restorer polish, applied and or removed with what pads or bonnets? speed etc...? Step 4.-collonites wax, probably applied by hand and removed by hand. The selection and prices for these polishing and buffing accessories at my local marine and home centers is poor at best so I was hoping to find a good internet supplier. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Bigshot	posted 08-26-2003 12:31 PM ET (US) Foam or terry is your preference. Skip step 3, color restorer is harsher than finesse so it will undo step 2. Personally I would skip step 2 and do step 3 then wax. I would not waste $30/qt finesse on the bottom of the hull. Foam absorbs liquid more than terry, foam I like better on compounding but terry with wax.
george nagy	posted 08-26-2003 01:26 PM ET (US) Yes, I have reversed steps 2 and 3 sometimes on the topsides I skip the compound and begin with color restorer then finesse-it. Do you apply each substance with a pad and then buff with another pad, or just apply then hand buff?
SSILVER	posted 08-26-2003 01:29 PM ET (US) Hey Bigshot I have a couple of questions for you, What about using wool w/ compound? My brother in-law used compound to bring back the shine on an old Blazer I had a few years ago. I recently removed 16 years of oxidation from a Red Stingray boat for my neighbor using 3-M Rubbing Compound and a Sears 2 speed 6" sander/polisher w/ a syn.. wool bonnet. The sander/polisher came w/ one wool bonnet and wallmarts had the rest. Seems that the wool bonnets in 6" are hard to find as most of the body guys use a 10" wheel. Anyhow I had planned on going over my Newport w/ the same setup to make her shine. The 3-M bottle recomended some 3-M pad (which I do not remember which one) that I could not find. West Marine and the local autoparts stores sold the Wool Bonnet on a pad ment to be used w/ a drill. I did not even try terry or foam because of the success I had w/ the Wool setup, do they work better? Also I have a nearly full bottle of 3-M Auto Glaze and was thinking about trying that on the Newport and thoughts on that idea. Thanks, Sean
Bigshot	posted 08-26-2003 01:39 PM ET (US) I have the sears 7" polisher and I use the 10" pad. They come with a hard backing so they fit any size. I like the bigger pad plus it is more forgiving being the ends will bend, not burn.
Bigshot	posted 08-26-2003 01:41 PM ET (US) Missed your post George. I apply and buff with same pad, just keep going until it is pretty much removed then wipe with a towel the residue. For each step I would clean the pad which basically entails running a flat tool along the pad until the dust stops.
whalerdude	posted 08-27-2003 07:15 PM ET (US) I found great velcro polisher wheels with removable velcro pads from this company: http://www.topoftheline.com/porcaborpol.html I use them with my porter cable random orbit polisher
lhg	posted 09-03-2003 07:59 PM ET (US) George - I would sand finer than #600. Wet sanding is easier and requires less effort than rubbing compound (the red stuff), and gives more consistent results. I would wet sand through #1000, #1500 & #2000. Then use the Mequires #44, etc. Results will be factory.
SpeedBump	posted 09-03-2003 09:08 PM ET (US) I am always concerned about wet sanding through the gelcoat when using a lower grit wet /dry paper 400 - 600 grit and especially when sanding an older boat not knowing how much sanding had been done by prior owners. If it is a painted surface I am not concerned as a touch up is always possible but sanding through the gelcoat the repair is much more difficult. I understand that the fiberglass is different colors as you get through the three different levels but I would hate to sand through the blue gel coat of my classic and hit that yellowish/green surface below.. At what point do you stop? What are the tell tail signs of sanding too far?
John O	posted 09-03-2003 09:11 PM ET (US) I concur with the 1000,1500. and then 2000. I did this to the gel coat on the transom and above the water line and it worked well. I also compounded by hand with a clean cloth with a 3M Marine fiberglass compound than Finesse, I finished with 2 coats of Fleet wax on a Sears $39.00 buffer. Looks great.
John O	posted 09-03-2003 09:11 PM ET (US) PS You must WET SAND !!!!!!!!!!!!!
lhg	posted 09-04-2003 03:20 PM ET (US) These super-fine grades of automotive wet sand paper do not remove much gelcoat at all. They are basically doing the polishing work, making it much easier and uniform. Rubbing compound is MUCH more abrasive than these papers. By the time you have used the #2000, the gelcoat is already looking highly polished. Listening to the "sound" is important, as you can tell and feel when the work is completed with a given grade.
kingfish	posted 09-04-2003 03:32 PM ET (US) Larry- E-mail me - your e-mail is on the fritz again or something- jcf
george nagy	posted 09-29-2003 09:36 AM ET (US) I must agree on WET SANDING sentimants expressed by others in this post. I have begun to wet sand to 1000 and the finish already looks great! I have had some difficulty however locating 2000 grit papers. It sure doesn't take much effort to get professional results. I plan on finishing with finesse-it since I already have a bottle. I'm contemplating if I should wet sand the rest of the hull inside and out or just finesse-it. Thanks again guys!
lhg	posted 09-30-2003 05:36 PM ET (US) George - the finer 1000-2000 grades are available at Pep Boys or similar auto parts places. The Marine stores don't seem to cary them.
HAPPYJIM	posted 10-01-2003 05:54 AM ET (US) I picked up a package of 10 FULL sheet 1500 grit at Harbor Freight store for $5.99. The auto parts store wanted $1.50 for a half sheet.