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Author Topic:   removing fiberglass from non skid

cjd posted 09-15-2003 08:54 AM ET (US)
Well We pulled the trigger in a 91 montauk this weekend, and I am making some minor repairs (and waiting out isabelle) before we send it down to my father in deleware.
Clean boat with some minor issues.
I removed a trolling motor that had been SAVAGELY mounted to the bow lip of the boat.
There are four nice sized bold holes, (properly sealed though, so no water damage)that need to me repaired. I soaked four dowels in west system, sunk them into the holes, and topped of the holes with a nice pool of resin. I plan on sanding and gell coating, but unfortunatly, i spilled a fair amount into the nonskid on thee lip of the bow. Looks fine, but I know it will discolor in the sun.
Before i try and sand this out, is there a better way to remove dryed resin?
Also any thoughts on the repair, or advise?
I have olter questions, but will repost to assist in searches down the road.
On a side note, it is amazing to see the Montauk side by side with my Parker 18. The Parker looks like its on steroids compared to the Montauk, yet I know which boat i would rather be in when if it hit the fan (As it very may well this week)... with two boats in the drive, my neighbors are calling me Noah.
chris
glassman posted 09-15-2003 06:57 PM ET (US)
cjd can't help you out with the spilled gellcoat that should have been wipped up right away with acetone and rags. But I do have some sugestitons on your bolt hole repair. Epoxy coating the dowels and inserting them is good. But don't just pure resin into the holes to top them off. When the wood exspands and shrinks it will push up and pull down on the pured resin evetualy you'll see a crack in the form of a ring the size of your drilled hole, through your gellcoat.After epoxying the dowels in,use a cone shaped beveled counter sink bit thats a little larger then the drilled hole. Basicaly making a cone shapped plug. Fill them with a mixture of milled fibers and resin. I use a mixture of.. (resin, airosil powder or powdered filler and milled fibers) mixed to a putty texture like toothpaste so you can apply it to upside down an vertical surfaces without running.The wider cone shapped bevel has a bigger bite on the glass of the boat and less likely to push up or get pulled down. Gellcoat as you would, wet sand, polish and enjoy. Hope this helped? It seems a bit much for just a coupple of holes, but hey, a whaler is a work of art and you would not have posted this if you didn't care.
( Glassman )
lhg posted 09-15-2003 08:35 PM ET (US)
I think glassman's beveled hole repair idea is excellent, and is also what I use. I would do the whole repair with gelcoat, which basically is polyester resin. The use of West's epoxy was a mistake for this kind of repair, only for the reasons you state - it's difficult to work with.
Also see Boston Whaler's hull repair instructions, in the reference section.
cjd posted 09-15-2003 10:11 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the advice.
Actually they are pretty monstrous holes (six to be exact).
If the boat is spared by izzy this weekend, I will dremmel out the west and go with your plan.
what do you get when you take a parker, a montauk and a prindle and smash them together at 150 mph?
Ill let you guys know
jimh posted 09-15-2003 10:20 PM ET (US)
If you make repairs with epoxy, use some fillers to allow it to be faired and sanded. If you use pure epoxy you will have a much harder material than gel coat or polyester resin, and you must be careful when trying to sand it fair. You will remove more gel coat and polyester resin than epoxy.
I made this mistake in a small repair. I am going to have to get a Dremel tool rotary file to carefull remove the epoxy to below the gel coat layer. Then I will finish with a gel coat top coat.
Use soap and water to wash away any amine blush from the epoxy layer. Acetone will not remove amine blush. If you leave amine blush, you will have trouble with gel coat top coats not sticking.
Epoxy is excellent for repairs, but for small cosmetic patches it may be overkill.

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Author	Topic: removing fiberglass from non skid
cjd	posted 09-15-2003 08:54 AM ET (US) Well We pulled the trigger in a 91 montauk this weekend, and I am making some minor repairs (and waiting out isabelle) before we send it down to my father in deleware. Clean boat with some minor issues. I removed a trolling motor that had been SAVAGELY mounted to the bow lip of the boat. There are four nice sized bold holes, (properly sealed though, so no water damage)that need to me repaired. I soaked four dowels in west system, sunk them into the holes, and topped of the holes with a nice pool of resin. I plan on sanding and gell coating, but unfortunatly, i spilled a fair amount into the nonskid on thee lip of the bow. Looks fine, but I know it will discolor in the sun. Before i try and sand this out, is there a better way to remove dryed resin? Also any thoughts on the repair, or advise? I have olter questions, but will repost to assist in searches down the road. On a side note, it is amazing to see the Montauk side by side with my Parker 18. The Parker looks like its on steroids compared to the Montauk, yet I know which boat i would rather be in when if it hit the fan (As it very may well this week)... with two boats in the drive, my neighbors are calling me Noah. chris
glassman	posted 09-15-2003 06:57 PM ET (US) cjd can't help you out with the spilled gellcoat that should have been wipped up right away with acetone and rags. But I do have some sugestitons on your bolt hole repair. Epoxy coating the dowels and inserting them is good. But don't just pure resin into the holes to top them off. When the wood exspands and shrinks it will push up and pull down on the pured resin evetualy you'll see a crack in the form of a ring the size of your drilled hole, through your gellcoat.After epoxying the dowels in,use a cone shaped beveled counter sink bit thats a little larger then the drilled hole. Basicaly making a cone shapped plug. Fill them with a mixture of milled fibers and resin. I use a mixture of.. (resin, airosil powder or powdered filler and milled fibers) mixed to a putty texture like toothpaste so you can apply it to upside down an vertical surfaces without running.The wider cone shapped bevel has a bigger bite on the glass of the boat and less likely to push up or get pulled down. Gellcoat as you would, wet sand, polish and enjoy. Hope this helped? It seems a bit much for just a coupple of holes, but hey, a whaler is a work of art and you would not have posted this if you didn't care. ( Glassman )
lhg	posted 09-15-2003 08:35 PM ET (US) I think glassman's beveled hole repair idea is excellent, and is also what I use. I would do the whole repair with gelcoat, which basically is polyester resin. The use of West's epoxy was a mistake for this kind of repair, only for the reasons you state - it's difficult to work with. Also see Boston Whaler's hull repair instructions, in the reference section.
cjd	posted 09-15-2003 10:11 PM ET (US) Thanks for the advice. Actually they are pretty monstrous holes (six to be exact). If the boat is spared by izzy this weekend, I will dremmel out the west and go with your plan. what do you get when you take a parker, a montauk and a prindle and smash them together at 150 mph? Ill let you guys know
jimh	posted 09-15-2003 10:20 PM ET (US) If you make repairs with epoxy, use some fillers to allow it to be faired and sanded. If you use pure epoxy you will have a much harder material than gel coat or polyester resin, and you must be careful when trying to sand it fair. You will remove more gel coat and polyester resin than epoxy. I made this mistake in a small repair. I am going to have to get a Dremel tool rotary file to carefull remove the epoxy to below the gel coat layer. Then I will finish with a gel coat top coat. Use soap and water to wash away any amine blush from the epoxy layer. Acetone will not remove amine blush. If you leave amine blush, you will have trouble with gel coat top coats not sticking. Epoxy is excellent for repairs, but for small cosmetic patches it may be overkill.