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Author Topic:   Replacement of Teleflex stearing

DADDYSSHRINKII posted 11-01-2003 10:56 PM ET (US)
Is it necessary to pull the engine away from the transom to replace the stearing on a 1978 Montauk? Would someone comment on allowable play in the stearing wheel that would signal necessary replacement? My wheel rotates about 3" before engine moves.
Any step by step installation suggestions would be appreciated along with allowable slack.
Thanks
whalersman posted 11-02-2003 11:47 AM ET (US)
Daddy,
Some people say that you have to loosen the engine, others don't..
This might be due to the different engine manufacturers, I am not sure.
What I am sure of, is that I changed the steering cable on a 1980's 70hp Evinrude on a 1977 Montauk, without having to loosen the engine.. There was just barely enough room to slide the cable out, and then back in again...
Just Barely.... and I made sure that the cable was fully "IN"...
I always had play in 1978 Montauk... Not sure how much... I had the Teleflex Big-T helm which is what I assume you have... Whaler didn't start using the Safe-T helm until 1979 or 1980....
If you have the Big-T helm, you will either have to fill a couple of bolt holes in your dash, or make some kind of cover.. I (and a friend) made a cover out of Black Starboard, that was oval in shape to match the oval shape of the Big-T helm and 1" thick... This cover fit under the new Safe-T helm and made the Safe-T helm look almost just like a Big-T helm...
Worked great... I installed the new NFB system on his 1977 Montauk using the above method....
DADDYSSHRINKII posted 11-03-2003 09:08 PM ET (US)
Many thanks for the reply. Any idea about when the cable reaches the point to which it needs replacement? I have a brand new 17' telefex cable. I have kept the head lubricated thru the years. Is it possible that replacing just the cable and sheath portion will work ok or do they seem to wear out at the same time?
Best----
ratherwhalering posted 11-04-2003 07:35 PM ET (US)
I managed to replace my 1987 17-Montauk steering cable without moving the 1987 90hp Johnson, it was just a tight fit, like whalersman says. Put a thin hand towel over the gel coat before you start to remove the steering arm from the pivot tube to reduce scratches from the big ole locking nut. I replaced my old one cable with a 18' teleflex cable and a NFB helm. If you buy the cable and helm together, it is ALOT cheaper, like only an additional $35.00. Its worth it too, because if the cable is shot, then the helm will probably go soon enough too. I knew my rotary helm was gone when it got really loose, 3-4" of play, and then started clicking. When you remove the old cable, tie a feeder line to the end so you can lead the new cable through the tunnel. Start at the helm, then once the cable is out of the tunnel, remove the steering arm from the tilt tube. When you re-lead the cable, feed the steering arm through first, then run it up the tunnel, its much easier to work with without any bends.
DADDYSSHRINKII posted 11-06-2003 04:16 PM ET (US)
Excellent advice from both of you guys. Thanks for saving me a learning curve (and my pretty old Montauk some scratches)
FCL

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Author	Topic: Replacement of Teleflex stearing
DADDYSSHRINKII	posted 11-01-2003 10:56 PM ET (US) Is it necessary to pull the engine away from the transom to replace the stearing on a 1978 Montauk? Would someone comment on allowable play in the stearing wheel that would signal necessary replacement? My wheel rotates about 3" before engine moves. Any step by step installation suggestions would be appreciated along with allowable slack. Thanks
whalersman	posted 11-02-2003 11:47 AM ET (US) Daddy, Some people say that you have to loosen the engine, others don't.. This might be due to the different engine manufacturers, I am not sure. What I am sure of, is that I changed the steering cable on a 1980's 70hp Evinrude on a 1977 Montauk, without having to loosen the engine.. There was just barely enough room to slide the cable out, and then back in again... Just Barely.... and I made sure that the cable was fully "IN"... I always had play in 1978 Montauk... Not sure how much... I had the Teleflex Big-T helm which is what I assume you have... Whaler didn't start using the Safe-T helm until 1979 or 1980.... If you have the Big-T helm, you will either have to fill a couple of bolt holes in your dash, or make some kind of cover.. I (and a friend) made a cover out of Black Starboard, that was oval in shape to match the oval shape of the Big-T helm and 1" thick... This cover fit under the new Safe-T helm and made the Safe-T helm look almost just like a Big-T helm... Worked great... I installed the new NFB system on his 1977 Montauk using the above method....
DADDYSSHRINKII	posted 11-03-2003 09:08 PM ET (US) Many thanks for the reply. Any idea about when the cable reaches the point to which it needs replacement? I have a brand new 17' telefex cable. I have kept the head lubricated thru the years. Is it possible that replacing just the cable and sheath portion will work ok or do they seem to wear out at the same time? Best----
ratherwhalering	posted 11-04-2003 07:35 PM ET (US) I managed to replace my 1987 17-Montauk steering cable without moving the 1987 90hp Johnson, it was just a tight fit, like whalersman says. Put a thin hand towel over the gel coat before you start to remove the steering arm from the pivot tube to reduce scratches from the big ole locking nut. I replaced my old one cable with a 18' teleflex cable and a NFB helm. If you buy the cable and helm together, it is ALOT cheaper, like only an additional $35.00. Its worth it too, because if the cable is shot, then the helm will probably go soon enough too. I knew my rotary helm was gone when it got really loose, 3-4" of play, and then started clicking. When you remove the old cable, tie a feeder line to the end so you can lead the new cable through the tunnel. Start at the helm, then once the cable is out of the tunnel, remove the steering arm from the tilt tube. When you re-lead the cable, feed the steering arm through first, then run it up the tunnel, its much easier to work with without any bends.
DADDYSSHRINKII	posted 11-06-2003 04:16 PM ET (US) Excellent advice from both of you guys. Thanks for saving me a learning curve (and my pretty old Montauk some scratches) FCL