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Author Topic:   Water Pump on 1991 130 Yamaha

will posted 12-22-2003 01:28 PM ET (US)
I have a '91 130 yamaha on my Outrage and the mechanic at my marina is suggesting that I replace the water pump. For a '91, the engine has very few hours on it and to date, I have only had to do the scheduled maintenance to keep it running properly (knock wood). Should I have this done? Do these engines have a history of water pump problems? Can I do the job myself? Thanks--Will
Gep posted 12-22-2003 01:57 PM ET (US)
Hi Will,
I have the same motor except mine is a 1992.
If you haven't changed the pump in a few years I would suggest doing it. I don't know if they have a history of water pump failure.
Can you do the job yourself? Depends on how mechanically inclined you are.
I found it easy to do, but I have a Seloc manual that made it that much easier.
I actually have my engine torn down to the point of having the powerhead removed and all my cylinders laying on my work bench as I type this.
There are seven 12mm? bolts that hold the lower unit on the middle section.
Six of these are on the outside perimeter. One is inside, where the little rubber piece on the back is. This rubber piece is a cover to get at the bolt that holds your trim tab on also.
From there you drop (not literally) the lower unit and the water pump is held on the shaft by four 10mm? bolts.
I really would suggest getting the manual as there are little hints and suggestions in there that help along the way so you don't screw it up and end up doing damage to other stuff along the way.
How much will your marina charge to change it out?
It might be worth it.
Mike
Sal DiMercurio posted 12-22-2003 03:07 PM ET (US)
Merc suggests changing the water pump "EVERY YEAR ", Bombardier every 2 years wheatheryou use it or not.
The fingers on the rubber impellor will set in a fixed position & loose their elasticity & wont be able to pump the water as needed.
Even if the engine is brand new & hasen't even been started for 3 or 4 years, that pump has to be replaced.
Do yourself a huge favor & have it changed because it certainly wont go out while the boat is on the trailer or at the dock, they usually go out when your at least 10 miles from the nearest ramp on a piece of water that has little to no boat traffic & your gonna be stuck wishing you had changed it.
Believe me, i'v been there.
Sal
Clark Roberts posted 12-22-2003 05:22 PM ET (US)
A good reason to change inpeller every year or so is so that you can grease the drive shaft spline (slips into crank). If this puppy ever freezes up you have major, major problems. Also, the bolts affixing the lower unit get greased also. In addition to above (post by GEP)description of removing lower unit, you must disconnect the shift shaft! Easy job but if you've never done it suggest you get a manual and a buddy to help out! Happy Whalin'.. Clark... Spruce Creek Navy
will posted 12-23-2003 07:40 AM ET (US)
Thank you all. As always, informative, well thought out responses to my questions. I am going to see my mechanic either tomorrow or Friday so I will ask him what this job will cost. How much "should" he charge me to replace a water pump? Thanks again, Will
Clark Roberts posted 12-23-2003 08:01 AM ET (US)
Let me take a guess at what it SHOULD cost... one hour labor plus parts ($75 plus $50) = $125. But I haven't bought any Yamaha parts lately so may be way off.
Gep posted 12-23-2003 08:22 AM ET (US)
Clark,
Is the impellor the same thing as the pump.
If it is why would you need to disconnect the shift shaft?
Mike
prj posted 12-23-2003 09:17 AM ET (US)
Mike:
The impeller is the rubber wheel and
the "pump", when referred to specifically
and differentiated from the impeller,
is the metal box housing (with gaskets, etc...).
All of these components come in the "water pump kit".
The shift shaft needs to be disconnected
to drop the lower unit.
It's a metal rod extending from the lower unit's gear housing
up into the under cowling region where
the binacle controls gearing.
2 guys for this disconnect operation make it easier,
one manipulating the lower unit and the other
managing the top connection at the shift shaft
to determine proper disengagement.
Gep posted 12-23-2003 10:58 AM ET (US)
OK, I grabbed my manual, now I understand why I was confused.
On my 130hp V-4, the shift rod is splined and disconnected itself when I dropped the lower unit.
Maybe I got lucky.
Mike
Bigshot posted 12-23-2003 12:04 PM ET (US)
Yamaha foots are easy to drop because they shift does not need to be disconnected. Make sure that the upper part of the shaft is not corroded once droped. They rot about 2-3 inches up inside the housing.
Sal DiMercurio posted 12-23-2003 07:02 PM ET (US)
Bigshot is absolutly right, because Yamaha had major problem with their shift shafts, because they weren't made of stainless steel & 99 percent of them totally rusted into a rusted mess.
If it's stainless your ok but if not, you better change it.
Sal
Clark Roberts posted 12-24-2003 07:20 PM ET (US)
I should have known (re. the shift shaft) that the V4 Yamaha uses the Mercury lower unit and therefore has the rotary action shifting with spline shift shaft connection.

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Author	Topic: Water Pump on 1991 130 Yamaha
will	posted 12-22-2003 01:28 PM ET (US) I have a '91 130 yamaha on my Outrage and the mechanic at my marina is suggesting that I replace the water pump. For a '91, the engine has very few hours on it and to date, I have only had to do the scheduled maintenance to keep it running properly (knock wood). Should I have this done? Do these engines have a history of water pump problems? Can I do the job myself? Thanks--Will
Gep	posted 12-22-2003 01:57 PM ET (US) Hi Will, I have the same motor except mine is a 1992. If you haven't changed the pump in a few years I would suggest doing it. I don't know if they have a history of water pump failure. Can you do the job yourself? Depends on how mechanically inclined you are. I found it easy to do, but I have a Seloc manual that made it that much easier. I actually have my engine torn down to the point of having the powerhead removed and all my cylinders laying on my work bench as I type this. There are seven 12mm? bolts that hold the lower unit on the middle section. Six of these are on the outside perimeter. One is inside, where the little rubber piece on the back is. This rubber piece is a cover to get at the bolt that holds your trim tab on also. From there you drop (not literally) the lower unit and the water pump is held on the shaft by four 10mm? bolts. I really would suggest getting the manual as there are little hints and suggestions in there that help along the way so you don't screw it up and end up doing damage to other stuff along the way. How much will your marina charge to change it out? It might be worth it. Mike
Sal DiMercurio	posted 12-22-2003 03:07 PM ET (US) Merc suggests changing the water pump "EVERY YEAR ", Bombardier every 2 years wheatheryou use it or not. The fingers on the rubber impellor will set in a fixed position & loose their elasticity & wont be able to pump the water as needed. Even if the engine is brand new & hasen't even been started for 3 or 4 years, that pump has to be replaced. Do yourself a huge favor & have it changed because it certainly wont go out while the boat is on the trailer or at the dock, they usually go out when your at least 10 miles from the nearest ramp on a piece of water that has little to no boat traffic & your gonna be stuck wishing you had changed it. Believe me, i'v been there. Sal
Clark Roberts	posted 12-22-2003 05:22 PM ET (US) A good reason to change inpeller every year or so is so that you can grease the drive shaft spline (slips into crank). If this puppy ever freezes up you have major, major problems. Also, the bolts affixing the lower unit get greased also. In addition to above (post by GEP)description of removing lower unit, you must disconnect the shift shaft! Easy job but if you've never done it suggest you get a manual and a buddy to help out! Happy Whalin'.. Clark... Spruce Creek Navy
will	posted 12-23-2003 07:40 AM ET (US) Thank you all. As always, informative, well thought out responses to my questions. I am going to see my mechanic either tomorrow or Friday so I will ask him what this job will cost. How much "should" he charge me to replace a water pump? Thanks again, Will
Clark Roberts	posted 12-23-2003 08:01 AM ET (US) Let me take a guess at what it SHOULD cost... one hour labor plus parts ($75 plus $50) = $125. But I haven't bought any Yamaha parts lately so may be way off.
Gep	posted 12-23-2003 08:22 AM ET (US) Clark, Is the impellor the same thing as the pump. If it is why would you need to disconnect the shift shaft? Mike
prj	posted 12-23-2003 09:17 AM ET (US) Mike: The impeller is the rubber wheel and the "pump", when referred to specifically and differentiated from the impeller, is the metal box housing (with gaskets, etc...). All of these components come in the "water pump kit". The shift shaft needs to be disconnected to drop the lower unit. It's a metal rod extending from the lower unit's gear housing up into the under cowling region where the binacle controls gearing. 2 guys for this disconnect operation make it easier, one manipulating the lower unit and the other managing the top connection at the shift shaft to determine proper disengagement.
Gep	posted 12-23-2003 10:58 AM ET (US) OK, I grabbed my manual, now I understand why I was confused. On my 130hp V-4, the shift rod is splined and disconnected itself when I dropped the lower unit. Maybe I got lucky. Mike
Bigshot	posted 12-23-2003 12:04 PM ET (US) Yamaha foots are easy to drop because they shift does not need to be disconnected. Make sure that the upper part of the shaft is not corroded once droped. They rot about 2-3 inches up inside the housing.
Sal DiMercurio	posted 12-23-2003 07:02 PM ET (US) Bigshot is absolutly right, because Yamaha had major problem with their shift shafts, because they weren't made of stainless steel & 99 percent of them totally rusted into a rusted mess. If it's stainless your ok but if not, you better change it. Sal
Clark Roberts	posted 12-24-2003 07:20 PM ET (US) I should have known (re. the shift shaft) that the V4 Yamaha uses the Mercury lower unit and therefore has the rotary action shifting with spline shift shaft connection.