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Author Topic:   Removing Teleflex steering question

billh1963 posted 01-18-2004 03:55 PM ET (US)
Okay, I've done the search but can't find my answer so I come back, humbly, to the forum asking for guidance.
I am finally changing the motor on my 1984 Montauk and can't figure out how to remove the steering from the engine(I assume it's teleflex). I have removed the linkage connecting the front of the engine to the steering rod and the large nut with the zirk fitting on the port side (where the rod comes out). My problem now lies on the side where the steering "cable" comes into the engine on the starboard side. I can't get anything to turn without EVERYTHING else turning. Can anyone refer me to a drawing or some reference point?
Thank you!
whalersman posted 01-18-2004 05:23 PM ET (US)
Bill,
That nut should turn without anything else turning.. If it doesn't, the nut is frozen to the metal sleeve..
If you are tossing the old cable out, try a pipe wrench on the cable so it won't turn and lossen the nut... Otherwise, make sure the helm end is loose and then just keep turning the nut loose, even though every else is turning..
If the tilt shaft is turning, then you need to put a couple of nuts locked together on the port side and then loosen the starboard side nut..
Been there, done that......
Joe
billh1963 posted 01-18-2004 06:36 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply, Joe.
I plan on keeping the steering. If I read you right then I should disconnect the cable from the steering box in the console to allow the cable to twist as I turn it? At this point the whole threaded piece in the tilt tube turns as I turn the large nut on the steering rod cable. Would heat (propane torch) on the nut help break it loose?
Thanks,
Bill
whalersman posted 01-18-2004 07:31 PM ET (US)
Bill,
Put the nut back on the port side.. Then tighten that nut along with the starboard nut... This should keep the tilt shaft tight.. Spray on WD-40 or Liquid Wrench, etc., on the large nut and tilt tube, and then try loosening the large cable nut...
Heat works good for certain things but in this case, you have an aluminum nut and a sleeve that comes in contact with the plastic cover of the cable... Also, there is a lot of grease involved here. Be careful....
How old is this cable? If it has any age on it at all, maybe this might be the time to replace it? Just a thought.....
Joe
billh1963 posted 01-18-2004 07:50 PM ET (US)
I assume the cable is original...1984 vintage. Any idea on what a new cable costs? If I replace the cable is there an easier way to remove cable since I wouldn't care about damage?
I'm repowering with a 1991 Evinrude 90. The existing engine is a 1980 Mariner 80. It runs great but it doesn't have T/T...which I have to have for the shallow water fishing I do.
Thank you for all your help, Joe.
whalersman posted 01-18-2004 08:41 PM ET (US)
Bill,
See this post...
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/002268.html
It is probably cheaper to replace the whole system with the newer NFB Feedback system.. I did this on a friends 1977 Montauk and it was easy.
I assume you already have the Safe-T helm so you would not have to make a spacer to make it look and fit like the Big-T helm like we had to do..
About $150.00 for the complete system... This would give you everything new except for your steering wheel...
Joe
billh1963 posted 01-18-2004 09:09 PM ET (US)
Joe, you're awesome!....I think I'll do that and keep my SS wheel. If that's the case and I can't get the old one off should I just hacksaw the cable? I won't need it with the new cable.
Thank you!
Bill
billh1963 posted 01-18-2004 09:19 PM ET (US)
A quick follow-up....
I saw some discussion about cable length (17' or 18'). Which is preferred or is it a personal choice? Could I see the pictures to help decide?
BTW: The fire extinguisher kit I bought from you looks great. Everyone thinks it's factory original! Super quality job!
whalersman posted 01-18-2004 09:56 PM ET (US)
Bill,
Photos are on the way...
Bolt cutters maybe on the steering cable to cut it close to the nut and sleeve... and then unscrew the large nut from the tilt tube..
Don't hurt the tilt tube...!!!!
After you get everything out, it is very easy to install the new system...
Joe
Gene in NC posted 01-20-2004 10:54 PM ET (US)
The nut is locked up by aluminum corrosion. Heat it carefully with a propane torch and apply wrench while still hot. If it wont release, heat it while applying force. If it cools down the corrosion resets.
This method common practice to break bond of SS bolts in aluminum that is exposed to salt water. Prevention of corrosion on assembly is achieved by coating bolt threads with gasket cement.
billh1963 posted 01-21-2004 01:13 PM ET (US)
Got it off by using propane...thank you everyone for your help!
Got the new motor mounted on Monday and it runs good on the "ear muffs". Can't wait until this weekend when I'll run it for real!
I think I will replace the steering later on this spring...the original isn't as smooth as I would like.
Plotman posted 01-21-2004 03:29 PM ET (US)
Replacing the cable is a 20 minute job fromw where you are now - just do it. You can replace the helm as well for very little added costs (entire kit is only aboyt $15-20 more than a cable alone.), and maybe an extra 20 minutes to replace the helm if the cable is already off.
The length is stamped right on the sheath of the old cable. I had a cable from an '88 break inside the sheath during a hole shot last summer - wan't much fun.
Buzzorouter posted 01-21-2004 08:53 PM ET (US)
Whalersman-
I have the Big T helm. I too intend to go to no feed back steering this year. Where is it you need the spacer?
whalersman posted 01-21-2004 09:07 PM ET (US)
Buzz,
The newer style Teleflex helm like the Safe-T does not have the Oblong section like the Big-T... The Safe-T is round and not as tall as the Oblong Big-T.
Like I mentioned above, I made an Oblong spacer out of Black Starboard the same size as the Big-T, and then mounted the new NFB helm on top of that... Looks just like the Big-T but now you have the newer style..
If you would like some photos, just let me know and give me some time as we still have snow around...
Joe
whaling away posted 01-21-2004 09:37 PM ET (US)
When replacing with Safe-T (no feedback system), what length steering cable should purchase for 1980 Montauk? Thanks
whalersman posted 01-21-2004 10:32 PM ET (US)
whaling away,
The steering cable, I belive, was originally 17' in the early models and later changed to 18'... Either one works fine and there are probably pro's and con's of each depending on who you talk to..
I have photos of both the 17' and the 18' installed in the Montauk..
The 17' makes a tighter bend and looks much better and allows you to still put your foot in the footwell area. The 18' has less of a bend and maybe a little less stress on the cable, but takes up the footwell space.
My 17' cable on my 1978 Montauk was original and the only problem I started having was the plastic housing was cracking everywhere, not just in the bend...
If you would like to see photos of the 17' installation and the 18' installation, just let me know...
Joe

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Author	Topic: Removing Teleflex steering question
billh1963	posted 01-18-2004 03:55 PM ET (US) Okay, I've done the search but can't find my answer so I come back, humbly, to the forum asking for guidance. I am finally changing the motor on my 1984 Montauk and can't figure out how to remove the steering from the engine(I assume it's teleflex). I have removed the linkage connecting the front of the engine to the steering rod and the large nut with the zirk fitting on the port side (where the rod comes out). My problem now lies on the side where the steering "cable" comes into the engine on the starboard side. I can't get anything to turn without EVERYTHING else turning. Can anyone refer me to a drawing or some reference point? Thank you!
whalersman	posted 01-18-2004 05:23 PM ET (US) Bill, That nut should turn without anything else turning.. If it doesn't, the nut is frozen to the metal sleeve.. If you are tossing the old cable out, try a pipe wrench on the cable so it won't turn and lossen the nut... Otherwise, make sure the helm end is loose and then just keep turning the nut loose, even though every else is turning.. If the tilt shaft is turning, then you need to put a couple of nuts locked together on the port side and then loosen the starboard side nut.. Been there, done that...... Joe
billh1963	posted 01-18-2004 06:36 PM ET (US) Thanks for the reply, Joe. I plan on keeping the steering. If I read you right then I should disconnect the cable from the steering box in the console to allow the cable to twist as I turn it? At this point the whole threaded piece in the tilt tube turns as I turn the large nut on the steering rod cable. Would heat (propane torch) on the nut help break it loose? Thanks, Bill
whalersman	posted 01-18-2004 07:31 PM ET (US) Bill, Put the nut back on the port side.. Then tighten that nut along with the starboard nut... This should keep the tilt shaft tight.. Spray on WD-40 or Liquid Wrench, etc., on the large nut and tilt tube, and then try loosening the large cable nut... Heat works good for certain things but in this case, you have an aluminum nut and a sleeve that comes in contact with the plastic cover of the cable... Also, there is a lot of grease involved here. Be careful.... How old is this cable? If it has any age on it at all, maybe this might be the time to replace it? Just a thought..... Joe
billh1963	posted 01-18-2004 07:50 PM ET (US) I assume the cable is original...1984 vintage. Any idea on what a new cable costs? If I replace the cable is there an easier way to remove cable since I wouldn't care about damage? I'm repowering with a 1991 Evinrude 90. The existing engine is a 1980 Mariner 80. It runs great but it doesn't have T/T...which I have to have for the shallow water fishing I do. Thank you for all your help, Joe.
whalersman	posted 01-18-2004 08:41 PM ET (US) Bill, See this post... http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/002268.html It is probably cheaper to replace the whole system with the newer NFB Feedback system.. I did this on a friends 1977 Montauk and it was easy. I assume you already have the Safe-T helm so you would not have to make a spacer to make it look and fit like the Big-T helm like we had to do.. About $150.00 for the complete system... This would give you everything new except for your steering wheel... Joe
billh1963	posted 01-18-2004 09:09 PM ET (US) Joe, you're awesome!....I think I'll do that and keep my SS wheel. If that's the case and I can't get the old one off should I just hacksaw the cable? I won't need it with the new cable. Thank you! Bill
billh1963	posted 01-18-2004 09:19 PM ET (US) A quick follow-up.... I saw some discussion about cable length (17' or 18'). Which is preferred or is it a personal choice? Could I see the pictures to help decide? BTW: The fire extinguisher kit I bought from you looks great. Everyone thinks it's factory original! Super quality job!
whalersman	posted 01-18-2004 09:56 PM ET (US) Bill, Photos are on the way... Bolt cutters maybe on the steering cable to cut it close to the nut and sleeve... and then unscrew the large nut from the tilt tube.. Don't hurt the tilt tube...!!!! After you get everything out, it is very easy to install the new system... Joe
Gene in NC	posted 01-20-2004 10:54 PM ET (US) The nut is locked up by aluminum corrosion. Heat it carefully with a propane torch and apply wrench while still hot. If it wont release, heat it while applying force. If it cools down the corrosion resets. This method common practice to break bond of SS bolts in aluminum that is exposed to salt water. Prevention of corrosion on assembly is achieved by coating bolt threads with gasket cement.
billh1963	posted 01-21-2004 01:13 PM ET (US) Got it off by using propane...thank you everyone for your help! Got the new motor mounted on Monday and it runs good on the "ear muffs". Can't wait until this weekend when I'll run it for real! I think I will replace the steering later on this spring...the original isn't as smooth as I would like.
Plotman	posted 01-21-2004 03:29 PM ET (US) Replacing the cable is a 20 minute job fromw where you are now - just do it. You can replace the helm as well for very little added costs (entire kit is only aboyt $15-20 more than a cable alone.), and maybe an extra 20 minutes to replace the helm if the cable is already off. The length is stamped right on the sheath of the old cable. I had a cable from an '88 break inside the sheath during a hole shot last summer - wan't much fun.
Buzzorouter	posted 01-21-2004 08:53 PM ET (US) Whalersman- I have the Big T helm. I too intend to go to no feed back steering this year. Where is it you need the spacer?
whalersman	posted 01-21-2004 09:07 PM ET (US) Buzz, The newer style Teleflex helm like the Safe-T does not have the Oblong section like the Big-T... The Safe-T is round and not as tall as the Oblong Big-T. Like I mentioned above, I made an Oblong spacer out of Black Starboard the same size as the Big-T, and then mounted the new NFB helm on top of that... Looks just like the Big-T but now you have the newer style.. If you would like some photos, just let me know and give me some time as we still have snow around... Joe
whaling away	posted 01-21-2004 09:37 PM ET (US) When replacing with Safe-T (no feedback system), what length steering cable should purchase for 1980 Montauk? Thanks
whalersman	posted 01-21-2004 10:32 PM ET (US) whaling away, The steering cable, I belive, was originally 17' in the early models and later changed to 18'... Either one works fine and there are probably pro's and con's of each depending on who you talk to.. I have photos of both the 17' and the 18' installed in the Montauk.. The 17' makes a tighter bend and looks much better and allows you to still put your foot in the footwell area. The 18' has less of a bend and maybe a little less stress on the cable, but takes up the footwell space. My 17' cable on my 1978 Montauk was original and the only problem I started having was the plastic housing was cracking everywhere, not just in the bend... If you would like to see photos of the 17' installation and the 18' installation, just let me know... Joe