Johnson 115-HP Hard to Start, Slow to Warm Up

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Author Topic:   Johnson 115-HP Hard to Start, Slow to Warm Up

mangrovemansion posted 01-25-2004 02:46 PM ET (US)
I have a c.1985 Johnson 115-HP that seems hard to start and VERY slow to warm up and idle. Runs great after lengthy warmup. Idles fine when warm and runs smooth at full throttle. When I am anchored I see a small oil slick around the lower end. No leaks at fuel hook up. Suggestions? Is this a normal trait of this motor?
Thanks,
David
Bigshot posted 01-26-2004 11:25 AM ET (US)
OMC's are cold blooded beasts by nature. Make sure carbs are adjusted correctly.
rlovelace posted 07-10-2008 09:45 PM ET (US)
[Four years later]
I just purchased a 18-foot Boston Whaler boat with a Johnson 140-HP motor. I have noticed the same [hard to start and slow to warm up characteristics as mentioned above]. Unburned fuel slicking across the water and very smokey on start. These engines uses varriable oil injection which is known to be problematic, as I understand. Sometimes, I just have to wait a few minutes and try again. Once running, she runs great. I have been told that these are cold engines but they are pretty bullet proof. My engine is 20 years old and provided 150-PSI on each of the four cylinders. I am thinking of upgrading the oil injection module and possible looking at upgraded ignition systems with stronger spark but I am not sure if this is the right thing as I am a not very savy on outboard motors.
swist posted 07-11-2008 08:40 AM ET (US)
Since when is the old J/E VRO system "problematic"? I owned two motors of that ilk and never had a problem. Not that's that's a significant sample, but it's a part of the motor that seemed to "just work" for me and many others back in those days. When VRO was first instroduced there were many people who didn't trust automatic oiling systems on principle and would disconnect them and premix instead, but that phenomenon was not limited to J/E brands.
jimh posted 07-11-2008 09:24 AM ET (US)
Since your motor is from c.1988 you should give strong consideration to replacing the fuel pump. The fuel pump may contain rubber components which may not be tolerant of today's blended gasoline-ethanol fuels. Blended fuels with ethanol can cause problems with rubber components which have not been specifically manufactured to tolerate ethanol. Also, a new fuel pump is not a bad idea for a 20-year-old motor, just on a general preventative maintenance schedule.
An outboard motor that is in good condition and properly set up should start with very minimal cranking. Obtain the owner's manual for the motor and review the starting procedure. Outboard motors tend to have unique starting procedures, and it is important to follow the exact procedure recommended for your motor. In my experience, poor priming of the fuel system is often the cause of hard starting. If my motor does not fire on the first crank-over, it is because the fuel system was not primed properly. Some motors incorporate automatic features to enhance starting, but these may not function properly if the recommended procedure is not followed.
The engine temperature is generally regulated by a thermostat-valve. If the thermostat is not operating correctly or if it has been removed (which is sometime done), the engine will not reach proper temperature at idle speeds. To verify the engine temperature you should install a cylinder head temperature gauge and observe the operating range of the engine temperature.
Thanks for your opinion on the reliability of the VRO2 or OMS oil mixing system as used by OMC motors for many years. I do note that you also say you are "not very [savvy] on outboard motors." You might find that some people who are fairly savvy on outboard motors hold the opposite opinion regarding the VRO2 or OMS oil mixing system. See
VRO STORY—The Myth of the Mixer
by Bill Grannis
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html
Peter posted 07-12-2008 08:15 AM ET (US)
While I realize that readings on compression gauges vary, the compression on a 140 V4 Looper, which I think is what you have, should be around 125 to 130 PSI. At least that is what I measured on mine and have seen reported by others with good working motors. When was the last time this motor was treated to a decarbonization procedure?
By the way, unburned fuel slicking across the water on startup is normal for a conventional 2-stroke.
rukkus posted 07-15-2008 10:41 PM ET (US)
You need the decarbonation service, as well as the head gasket change for ethanol fuel. You can by-pass the VRO and mix the oil/fuel mixture your self. more of a safety feature for an outboard that age. It could fail and pop, there goes the powerhead

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Author	Topic: Johnson 115-HP Hard to Start, Slow to Warm Up
mangrovemansion	posted 01-25-2004 02:46 PM ET (US) I have a c.1985 Johnson 115-HP that seems hard to start and VERY slow to warm up and idle. Runs great after lengthy warmup. Idles fine when warm and runs smooth at full throttle. When I am anchored I see a small oil slick around the lower end. No leaks at fuel hook up. Suggestions? Is this a normal trait of this motor? Thanks, David
Bigshot	posted 01-26-2004 11:25 AM ET (US) OMC's are cold blooded beasts by nature. Make sure carbs are adjusted correctly.
rlovelace	posted 07-10-2008 09:45 PM ET (US) [Four years later] I just purchased a 18-foot Boston Whaler boat with a Johnson 140-HP motor. I have noticed the same [hard to start and slow to warm up characteristics as mentioned above]. Unburned fuel slicking across the water and very smokey on start. These engines uses varriable oil injection which is known to be problematic, as I understand. Sometimes, I just have to wait a few minutes and try again. Once running, she runs great. I have been told that these are cold engines but they are pretty bullet proof. My engine is 20 years old and provided 150-PSI on each of the four cylinders. I am thinking of upgrading the oil injection module and possible looking at upgraded ignition systems with stronger spark but I am not sure if this is the right thing as I am a not very savy on outboard motors.
swist	posted 07-11-2008 08:40 AM ET (US) Since when is the old J/E VRO system "problematic"? I owned two motors of that ilk and never had a problem. Not that's that's a significant sample, but it's a part of the motor that seemed to "just work" for me and many others back in those days. When VRO was first instroduced there were many people who didn't trust automatic oiling systems on principle and would disconnect them and premix instead, but that phenomenon was not limited to J/E brands.
jimh	posted 07-11-2008 09:24 AM ET (US) Since your motor is from c.1988 you should give strong consideration to replacing the fuel pump. The fuel pump may contain rubber components which may not be tolerant of today's blended gasoline-ethanol fuels. Blended fuels with ethanol can cause problems with rubber components which have not been specifically manufactured to tolerate ethanol. Also, a new fuel pump is not a bad idea for a 20-year-old motor, just on a general preventative maintenance schedule. An outboard motor that is in good condition and properly set up should start with very minimal cranking. Obtain the owner's manual for the motor and review the starting procedure. Outboard motors tend to have unique starting procedures, and it is important to follow the exact procedure recommended for your motor. In my experience, poor priming of the fuel system is often the cause of hard starting. If my motor does not fire on the first crank-over, it is because the fuel system was not primed properly. Some motors incorporate automatic features to enhance starting, but these may not function properly if the recommended procedure is not followed. The engine temperature is generally regulated by a thermostat-valve. If the thermostat is not operating correctly or if it has been removed (which is sometime done), the engine will not reach proper temperature at idle speeds. To verify the engine temperature you should install a cylinder head temperature gauge and observe the operating range of the engine temperature. Thanks for your opinion on the reliability of the VRO2 or OMS oil mixing system as used by OMC motors for many years. I do note that you also say you are "not very [savvy] on outboard motors." You might find that some people who are fairly savvy on outboard motors hold the opposite opinion regarding the VRO2 or OMS oil mixing system. See VRO STORY—The Myth of the Mixer by Bill Grannis http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html
Peter	posted 07-12-2008 08:15 AM ET (US) While I realize that readings on compression gauges vary, the compression on a 140 V4 Looper, which I think is what you have, should be around 125 to 130 PSI. At least that is what I measured on mine and have seen reported by others with good working motors. When was the last time this motor was treated to a decarbonization procedure? By the way, unburned fuel slicking across the water on startup is normal for a conventional 2-stroke.
rukkus	posted 07-15-2008 10:41 PM ET (US) You need the decarbonation service, as well as the head gasket change for ethanol fuel. You can by-pass the VRO and mix the oil/fuel mixture your self. more of a safety feature for an outboard that age. It could fail and pop, there goes the powerhead