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Author Topic:   Disc versus Drum Trailer Brakes
rabbott posted 02-11-2004 04:43 PM ET (US)   Profile for rabbott   Send Email to rabbott  
Once again I am preparing to replace the drum brakes on the tandem trailer for my 1989 22' Revenge. The trailer is used exclusively in salt water and I manage to get two trouble-free years out of them before I need to replace the wheel cylinders and miscellaneous other parts. Usually I just buy new backing plates with all the hardware attached and use those; about $400 in parts.

I am curious whether many of you use the Tiedown(or other) brand of stainless disc brakes and what you are experiencing regarding longevity as well as reliability. My local marine service area keeps steering me clear of the disc brakes saying they have been unreliable, but I am starting to wonder whether they are just doing this to ensure a steady stream of purchases on drum brake parts.

kingfish posted 02-11-2004 06:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
rabbott-

I have a galvanized EZ-Loader under my Outrage 22 that came to me when the boat and trailer were seven years old (spring '99) with drum brakes on one of the tandem axles (no brakes of any sort on the other axle).

About three years ago I opened the reservoir on the brake actuator to find it full of water instead of brake fluid. Don't ask.

I wound up doing a major overhaul on the trailer: moved the bunks and boat forward about 15", added a couple of cross members, completed double keel rollers on all the cross members, added 2 new axles and Tie-Down stainless discs on both of them, as well as new brake lines and new Tie-Down actuator with a solenoid operated re-circulating line so I can back up without manually disengaging the brakes.

The brakes have operated flawlessly and I would recommend them to anyone. There were some rumors about some problems with early versions of the Tie-Down stainless discs back then, but whatever those problems were, if there ever were any, have been fixed. It's a great set up.

Ordered all my stuff for the brakes through Champion Trailers on line. They are very helpful, knowledgable and cost effective.

Let me know if I can help you out with your project.

kingfish

kingfish posted 02-11-2004 06:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Allow me to append a more clear comment about any Marina or individual who would steer you away from disc brakes: make dman sure you've got your hand firmly on your wallet all the time you are in their presence...
rabbott posted 02-11-2004 06:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for rabbott  Send Email to rabbott     
Kingfish,

Thanks for your prompt reply and your offer of help. It sounds like you did the same improvements to your trailer that I have ended up doing (minus the disc brakes). Based on your experience it seems you have had 4 trouble free years so far - how do the calipers and pads seem to be holding up? Also did you run new brake lines and were they stainless?

I assume that most of your use is in saltwater.

kingfish posted 02-11-2004 07:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
rabbott-

Yes, I added new stainless brake lines.

Most of my trailer-dunking is in freshwater (the Great Lakes - I live in mid-southern Michigan) - but at least once a year it gets a couple of weeks of saltwater exposure somewhere in the Gulf or Atlantic.

I have conservatively put 10,000 miles on the discs, but the last time I checked the pads and calipers was mid-summer last year, and they were still looking OK - it's about time to eye-ball them again though, before my saltwater trip this spring (probably Florida panhandle). In fact, thanks to this discussion, I'm going to do that PDQ; glad you got me thinking about it...

kingfish

Buckda posted 02-11-2004 08:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
Question: Could a simple freshwater flush as part of your routine at haul out help solve the deterioration problem? You flush your motor, could you also flush your trailer off and spray water on the brakes?


I have Zero experience here, but am interested in the thoughts of members with saltwater experience.

Dave

HAPPYJIM posted 02-11-2004 09:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for HAPPYJIM  Send Email to HAPPYJIM     
ALWAYS wash the trailer with lots of fresh water ASAP.

When you think it is salt free, hose it for 2-3 more minutes.

Direct the stream of water on the disc or drum for at least 1 minute....pull the trailer forward and rinse the brake some more.

Salt will work on a trailer quick and the brakes a lot quicker.

BW23 posted 02-11-2004 11:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for BW23  Send Email to BW23     
I don't have any experience with disc brakes but I follow 6 boating web forums.

Most guys are recommending KODIAK disc brakes.

kingfish posted 02-12-2004 08:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
I have also heard good things about Kodiak disc brakes; haven't tried them yet though.
Backlash posted 02-12-2004 09:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for Backlash  Send Email to Backlash     
Rabbott,

Like kingfish, I replaced my drum brakes with Tie-Down disc brakes about 3 years ago. I had noticed that my drum brakes did not seem to be working properly and upon pulling the drums found nothing but rusted brake parts. My then 7 year old trailer had been used mainly in fresh water with occasional salt water exposure.

IMO the problem with drum brakes is you can't readily see what's going on inside the drum and there are too many parts. The drums are also difficult to rinse thoroughly. The disc brakes are very simple (mechanically) and everything is exposed for easy inspection. They also work better than drums. Why do you think most cars today have disc brakes?

The drum to disc conversion is a fairly easy job and, as I recall, ran about $130 per wheel. I also replaced my brake lines with new SS.

I highly recommend the Tie-Down disc brakes and have also heard the Kodiak disc brakes are superb.

Steve

rabbott posted 02-14-2004 08:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for rabbott  Send Email to rabbott     
Thanks for your replies. In addition to looking into the Tie-Down product I am researching the Kodiak brand as well. Apparently it is the preferred brand by some trailer manufacturers in the Pacific Northwest. As all of my use is in salt water whatever I install will be subject to steady corrosion during fishing season.
where2 posted 02-17-2004 12:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
7 years ago, the problem with Tie Down disc Brakes were the dissimilar metals used in the cast caliper versus the piston. The aluminum alloy caliper tended to freeze to the bronze piston, typically leaving the caliper in the clamped position. As you would expect, the last thing the caliper did when you parked the trailer was squeeze the pads against the disc. The design was difficult to flush enough water through to get "every little bit" of salt out, and when dealing with two non-painted dissimilar metals it only takes a little salt to get things going.

I understand more modern versions of Tie-Down discs have addressed the original problem.

Speaking of brakes, and the things you can do to prolong their life, I was happy to see a newcomer to the Miami Boat Show. Someone has come out with a device that incorporates a pair of water tanks, a pump, and a flushing agent similar to "salt-away", into one handy little package that mounts to the trailer. Thus bringing your own fresh water to the ramp, and allowing timed flusing of the brakes, as well as the option of connecting a hose and rinsing the trailer or the boat. I can look for the company info in my bags of hand-outs from the show, if anyone's interested.

Royce posted 02-17-2004 11:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Royce  Send Email to Royce     
I rebuilt the trailer for my 1985 Outrage Cuddy 25' last year. I replaced the axels with two new 5200 lb. axels which allowed me to install the 12" Kodiak disc brakes. Kodiak discs are cast like a truck disc and are ventilated- a lot of heat disipation. Buy the stainless caliper set. They offer a stainless disc-but not with an integral hub assembly. On disc brakes the runout of the disc is very critical and a disc with an integral hub runs truer(LESS HEAT). With tandem axel Kodiak brakes I was able to tow my 25' (7,200 lbs) with my Toyota tundra. I never felt pushed by the boat--in fact my trailer had more braking than my truck. I highly advise the Kodiak brakes. When in doubt go to their website for their phone # and call one of their techs-they are very helpful.
Royce
jimh posted 02-18-2004 09:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
At the Miami Boat Show last week we stopped to chat with CONTINENTAL TRAILERS at their booth. They were showing a new disc brake system just revised from TIE DOWN ENGINEERING. The new design is vented and has a number of improvements including some stainless steel and bronze components. I don't know how many iterations of Tie Down Disc Brakes there are, but there does seem to have been a couple of improvements since the original, non-vented, design.

I am still using the original 1987 drum brakes on my trailer. When I bought it I had them overhauled, but they were still in good condition. The mechanic said the seals on the wheel bearings were leaking and had thrown so much grease that the brakes were nicely coated and protected!

Seriously, the previous owner launched the boat from a crane, so the trailer wheels never saw water. I'll be taking a look at them this spring after some saltwater exposure last year on two trips. If I need new brakes I may go to the disc system.

lhg posted 02-19-2004 08:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I have about 14 years experience with 4 wheel disc brakes under my 25 Outrage. Skipping over the Unique Functional Product (Bearing Buddy people) disc brakes that came from Continental on the new 1989 trailer, about 4 years ago I had the Tie Down (so called) ss disc brakes installed, complete with their galvanized hubs. Atually only the rotor, non vented, is SS, the caliper being cast aluminum as "where 2" indicates. Mine were the later revised versions.

The brakes work well and give good service, and have never locked up, providing your installer knows that the actuator must be specially designed for disc brakes, or modified by puncturing a membrane in the master cylinder. Otherwise the brakes will "drag". I use a Dico Model 10, which has been modified, and with a fluid recirculating blocker solenoid for backing up.

Here is what I have found, with considerable trailering, 50/50 salt/fresh. The hard SS rotor will last forever, and shows little wear. The pads lasted about 3 years, or maybe 25000 miles, much of it highway driving. The pads are made with ordinary metal brackets, and rust badly, making replacement of the one that screws directly into the caliper impossible. WE could not get the screws out. The rust from the other pad seems to get into the piston, which also corrodes into the aluminum caliper. Tie Down does not offer replacement pistons only. END RESULT, consider the aluminum caliper/pad a throw away commodity, and when the pads are worn, the caliper pistons(2) will likely be inoperable or badly corroded. Fortunately, replacement calipers, with pads, are about $86 each, and replacement is simple, since no turning of the rotor is needed (nor can it be done). A new rotor is only $15. So basically, these are a throw away caliper system, but which is not as bad as it sounds. There is simply an annual wear cost of having brakes on a trailer which is greater than one thinks, and the PISTON DESIGN and brake pads are the culprit. It could very well be that salt water is the culprit here again, and those used in fresh water, with less mileage, will last longer than my 3 year experience indicates. I should say that I rinse my brakes religiously after each salt water dunking.

I am very interested in Tie Down's latest offering, the aluminum vented brakes that JimH is referring to. I would definitely give them consideration, and the President of Continental Trailer indicated they have an SS corrosion resistant piston design. I'm sure they are more expensive than the simple SS series.

Royce posted 02-19-2004 10:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for Royce  Send Email to Royce     
I repeat--do not pass go- Go straight to Kodiak disc brakes. They are superior from the getgo. Tie down has been expermenting on the public long enough for them to get it right. Atwood now makes an 8,000 lb. hydraulic actuator with an integral back up solenoid valve. Use stainless steel brake lines , Kodiaks stainless caliper kit and the integral
( cadmiumplated) hub/rotor and you will be good to go. You can order the brakes from any Century wheel and rim Store(wholesale-be creative) for the 12 " the # is 2/hrcm-12-scadss. The actuator is Atwood #80366.these brakes are heavy duty and will last!
Royce
lhg posted 02-20-2004 06:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Royce - Thanks for the excellent information. Could you give us an indication as to what these cost per axle, parts/materials only.
Royce posted 02-20-2004 08:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for Royce  Send Email to Royce     
Larry- the 12" Kodiak brake kits as described above are about $250 per axle wholesale. The 10" were about $220. I have four new Kodiak 12" discs (without the integral hub) that I will sell for a good price. I never bothered to send them back for credit. I think that the kits with integral hubs are better. Buying a caliper kit and the above discs would save someone money.
Royce

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